HM Cutter Mermaid 1817 by JamesBhm - Modellers Shipyard - Scale 1:48 - first build

[JamesBhm]

9 hours ago, Fernando E said:

I also painted it black and you can't even see the layers

Fernando - Interesting idea. I had toyed with the idea of painting the cap rail on the bulwarks black just for some interesting visual contrast and to break up the "mathcy-matchy" effect of all the finished wood. I've seen one version of the model like that. If I have trouble capping the transom and need to break out the wood filler, I may have no choice for the transom and might do the cap rail as well. 

 

7 hours ago, Rick01 said:

You may find the walnut isn't flexible enough

Rick - Definitely a concern. Luckily, I just recently went on a buying spree and stocked up on some strip and sheet stock for my possible attempt at building whaleboats (and to play with). I've got walnut, beech, cherry, mahogany, and limewood. Limewood wasn't bad to work with at all when I built the jollyboat - especially with a little boiling water. 

 

4 hours ago, Cabbie said:

James that is a real bonzer looking stern and very well done.

Chris - Thanks for the compliment (Google came through for me) and the addition to my vocabulary! It pairs nicely with the geography lessons reading King's journal. 

[JamesBhm]

I think I got myself in a bit over my head with this modified transom. I don’t think I went about it the most efficient way, but patience (and re-bending the same pieces repeatedly) may have paid off. I made a cap and side trim for the transom using 1/32” walnut sheet stock. I had to spile the pieces (first time for everything). The walnut bent reasonable well after a few minutes in boiling water. I made some bending forms with thick balsa. The fit of the pieces wasn’t exactly perfect, but what I lack in joinery skills I make up for in color matching wood filler! Bending & attaching it in three pieces was definitely easier, and the little gaps are where the davits will go so they shouldn't be an issue. Then...I made one deviation from what I think is historically correct by adding the bracket pieces (would those technically be knees in that position?). I can’t make out what is in the transom area in King’s cross section…looks like maybe a cabinet or locker type of thing? I know I can’t build that but the transom area was feeling a bit naked. I've seen things like that in other cutter models (current and contemporary), so I put them in for added visual interest (plus for woodworking practice). Just some carved, sanded, and stained basswood. I'm worn out, but glad to put the stress of this transom behind me!

[Rick01]

Suggestion - add a few holes for belaying pins in the knees, it's surprising how many belaying points are actually needed when you look at a full rigging plan. Otherwise looking good. Not the best shot but you can just make them out here (top right section). 

Don't forget the binnacle that you can also just make out in the original plan.

 

Rick

Edited May 27, 2019 by Rick01

[JamesBhm]

2 hours ago, Rick01 said:

Suggestion - add a few holes for belaying pins in the knees

Rick, that's a great suggestion, and I like the look of that in those pics. Just checked and looks like there are a couple of belaying points back there in the instructions (cleats or rings, maybe?). I haven't really looked at the rigging except to try to make sure my added gunports didn't foul a belaying point. Looks like the Lennarth Petersson rigging book has three belaying pins in each knee. I'm sure I can work out how to use a few belaying pins. That should add even more visual interest. 

 

2 hours ago, Rick01 said:

Don't forget the binnacle

I've actually got a few pieces of a binnacle put together and will (hopefully) finish at some point!

[Rick01]

I made 3 x .6mm holes in each knee, left off the belaying points in the instructions and used the pins instead - made more sense to me. I also occasionally look at it and wonder if I should have fitted a "horse" for the boom control instead of the fixed eyebolt the instructions use. There is plenty of evidence for the use of this for small vessels during this period. Check this one of mine, it's a slightly later build (1817) but a similar size vessel. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/15624-topsail-schooner-enterprize-by-rick01-scale-148-first-wooden-scratch-build-finished/page/2/ 

 

Rick

 

[vossiewulf]

7 hours ago, JamesBhm said:

I think I got myself in a bit over my head with this modified transom.

I think it looks great, much more accurate than almost all sterns you see on cutters built here, including mine.

[JamesBhm]

On 5/27/2019 at 12:10 AM, Rick01 said:

I also occasionally look at it and wonder if I should have fitted a "horse" for the boom control instead of the fixed eyebolt the instructions use. There is plenty of evidence for the use of this for small vessels during this period. Check this one of mine, it's a slightly later build (1817) but a similar size vessel. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/15624-topsail-schooner-enterprize-by-rick01-scale-148-first-wooden-scratch-build-finished/page/2/ 

Rick, another very interesting thought. I saw that on a couple of cutter models in the contemporary models gallery...from a range of timeframes. Hard to definitively rule it in or out based on King's cross section sketch, so it's fair game to add it as far as I'm concerned. Very impressive job on the Enterprize, btw. I don't think I'll be ready to tackle a scratch build anytime soon. 

 

On 5/27/2019 at 1:55 AM, vossiewulf said:

I think it looks great, much more accurate than almost all sterns you see on cutters built here, including mine.

Thanks vossiewulf. I'm trying to build some skills by customizing a few things as I go. I think the white knuckles were worth it on this one. Technical execution not perfect, but passable for a first model, and of course It doesn't hurt that he who posts the build log gets to choose the more flattering photos! I've got plans to reconfigure the deck layout a bit as well, but that shouldn't be as hair raising (I hope). I'm eager to wrap up the hull and move on to new things. 

[Rick01]

2 hours ago, JamesBhm said:

 I've got plans to reconfigure the deck layout a bit as well

That definitely needs doing. The kit plans bear little resemblance to the diagram King drew.

 

Rick

[Cabbie]

Hi James the stern is looking very nice, one of a kind, will really make

your mermaid stand out. And thanks for sorting out all of the details,

though I am going to have to look up what a "horse" is.

Cheers Chris

[JamesBhm]

3 hours ago, Cabbie said:

I am going to have to look up what a "horse" is.

Chris - I didn't realize it was called a horse (I think it's also a traveler), but here are a couple of good images from the gallery. It's the metal bracket that allows the boom to swing a little more to leeward on each tack. I just found that second image. It may actually be close to what is depicted in King's cross section drawing (the little storage locker thing). Now that I've opted to put those knees in, I may have some limits on where/how I can put a horse in. 

Edited May 29, 2019 by JamesBhm

[Cabbie]

Morning James 

Found this on the net this morning, a little bit earlier than the mermaid.

But your transom with a name on it

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hired_armed_cutter_Telemachus

[JamesBhm]

On 5/30/2019 at 6:59 PM, Cabbie said:

Found this on the net this morning, a little bit earlier than the mermaid.

But your transom with a name on it

Nice. If I can't guarantee historical accuracy I'll settle for historical plausibility. Gunports are nice too. I was worried that many of the cutters I've seen have open ports with no lids.

[JamesBhm]

No building accomplished this weekend, but the latest "research" involved an evening sail on a replica of a late 1800s gaff rigged oyster schooner on the Gulf of Mexico. Got some nice pics of rigging and got to watch hoisting/furling of the sails, which was helpful to visualize. Not exactly the same period/origin as the Mermaid, but I think some aspects of gaff rigging are pretty universal. Rick and Chris...check out the horse/traveller. It was the first thing I noticed. 

[Rick01]

Perfect example!

 

Rick

[Kenneth Powell]

Is that one of the two schooners in Biloxi?

Which one? 

[JamesBhm]

3 hours ago, Kenneth Powell said:

Is that one of the two schooners in Biloxi?

Which one? 

Kenneth - Yes...was just down this weekend to take the ferry out to Ship Island (used to go years ago when I was in school and have started going back). Just learned about the schooners and did a walk-on sail on the Glenn L Swetman (I think). Very little wind. We motored out of the channel, hoisted sails, drifted aimlessly, caught a great sunset, and motored back. Very nice crew running the boat and enjoyed being out on the water even without any dramatic sailing action. 

[Kenneth Powell]

Excellent! Glad you enjoyed it even with light wind.

[JamesBhm]

One of those weeks. Too much work and not enough play time. I managed to spend some time getting the rudder hinges in place. I got to use a new toy - a Micro-Make mini jig/scroll saw that clamps to the table. It was decent (FYI, I have no affiliation with the product or company). Ran into a few issues. The hinges were too long (hanging off the back of the rudder and extending into awkwardly curved areas on the hull. I just trimmed them down with a Dremel cutting wheel. I painted the hinges with Tamiya Dark Iron and then dry brushed a few highlights on with Tamiya Chrome Silver. Same thing I plan to do with the carronade barrels and I like the effect. My rudder post is obviously pretty short. Rather than drilling through and actually attaching the tiller, I’ll just let it disappear into the hull and then attach a little carved tiller and false rudder post on deck. I’m trying to get away from the plywood fittings from the kit as much as possible. Once the cap rails are attached, it will be time to shift gears to deck furniture. Very excited!

[Cabbie]

Howdy James it must still be all work and no play.

OR you are busy making great discoveries for me(again).

The rudder looks very realistic

Have you look at how the bow sprit sits on/in the bulwarks/gunwales.

Been looking around can't find any detail, I wonder what holds it down?

 

[Rick01]

32 minutes ago, Cabbie said:

I wonder what holds it down?

There's a little gizmo called (I think) a spectacle. Basically an iron hoop going round the bowsprit and bolted to the prow. You can just make it out on this contemporary model https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/image/10960-p1000982s/

 

Rick

 

 

[Cabbie]

thanks Rick Is it basically just a 1/2 round hole and the sprit

dropped into it?

[Rick01]

Not from what I've been able to see. It appears to be a complete hoop bolted to the stem with the bowsprit put through it.

 

Rick

[Rick01]

Not from what I've been able to see. It appears to be a complete hoop bolted to the stem with the bowsprit put through it.

It's clearer on this build. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/3958-hm-colonial-cutter-mermaid-by-olliechristo-finished-modellers-shipyard/page/24/?tab=comments#comment-204180

 

Rick

[JamesBhm]

15 hours ago, Cabbie said:

Howdy James it must still be all work and no play.

Yes...but hoping to carve out at least a little bit of build time this weekend!

 

2 hours ago, Rick01 said:

Not from what I've been able to see. It appears to be a complete hoop bolted to the stem with the bowsprit put through it.

It's clearer on this build.

Rick...thanks for that. I had wondered a bit about the bowsprit but figured I would cross that bridge when I came to it. The build you linked shows the bowsprit slightly inset into the bulwark (maybe just the depth of the cap rail). That seems consistent with King's cross section drawing, although the Endeavor River painting seems to show it more sitting on top of the bulwark (hard to tell). I think you can (sortof?) see the ring you're talking about. 

[Rick01]

I dropped mine down the depth of the cap rail and added my interpretation of the ring. Another point of interpretation in both sketches is the anchor cable/chain. It appears to me almost as if it's a chain rather than cable unless King was showing it as a thick cable by putting lines on it. I ended up with cable but still look at the pictures from time to time and wonder.

 

Rick

[Blue Ensign]

Hello James, looking at your rudder have you got the strapping in the right configuration? 

You seem to have the pintles (on the rudder) below the gudgeons on the hull, which I don't think would work.

 

B.E.

[Rick01]

Ouch - I missed that completely when I looked at it. Rudder's not going to work too well that way round.

 

Rick 

[JamesBhm]

Wait! Wait! Is this better!!?!?!

 

Rookie mistake and a kick in the teeth. Doubly so now that the rudder is firmly attached to the stern post (ouch!). I had thought I was following the DVD instructions but obviously missed something and common sense didn't kick in. I'll see how much reconstruction is necessary once I remove it. I might need to strip and replank the rudder and stern post. Thanks for the catch, BE. Far less hassle to deal with it now than later.

[JamesBhm]

Well, not the work day I had planned on, but productive. The rudder was already attached to the stern post with superglue. Luckily, I was able to gently remove it with a few small explosive charges. Seriously, it wasn't too bad. Gently pried it loose with a chisel blade, then carefully scraped the glue away and did some filling/sanding/staining touch-up. I think the stern post and rudder have been saved without need for replanking. The hinges could probably be salvaged but I ordered a new set for a couple of dollars to start fresh. Special thanks again to Blue Ensign for saving me bigger headaches down the road! The good news is that this is the kind of mistake you make exactly once. Meanwhile, I completed the placement of the cap rails. The total height of the bulwarks is just a tad high, so I may have to recess the bowsprit just a bit more when I get to it. 

[Rick01]

3 hours ago, JamesBhm said:

The total height of the bulwarks is just a tad high, so I may have to recess the bowsprit just a bit more when I get to it. 

Sounds as if you fell foul of the same problem another couple of us did. Nowhere in the plans does it say that the bulwarks are around 1mm higher one end to the other, so if you install with the high end to the bows then you have this problem of the bowsprit sitting too high. I did have a "discussion" with Modellers Shipyard over this and they did say that this would be noted in their next print of the instructions but as far as I can tell it's never happened.

 

Rick