HMS Bounty by GlennS_TX - Corel - 1:130 Scale

[lmagna]

I think you are doing fine, and learning a lot in the process. As for producing with our hands what our minds eye envisions I don't think there is anyone here who has been able to do that.

 

Might I be so forward though to suggest that you might take the last third of the wale and run it parallel to the shear like you did in the forward two thirds. Also extend the copper a little higher in the stern than at the bow. Most ships of this time drew more at the stern than they did at the bow when resting. I am not certain what the difference is for the Bounty. I think I would have raised the wale slightly and made the blue area thinner and added a little black between the wale and waterline. But there again I have not done ANY research on the Bounty and have no idea what is "right"

[Glenns_TX]

Lou, I had to lower the wales at the stern to make room for the side cabin windows last night. I will probably paint the planks below the wale black. Just need to be careful. Masking tape pulls up the copper. And I'll raise the copper on the stern. Unfortunately, there isn't a stern diagram showing the position of the waterline.

[Glenns_TX]

The shipyard’s crane operator had one too many at lunch and scored her hull.

 

Nah. The glue doesn’t bond well on the paint. And it’s time to install her channels. So I used a filing stick to sand off the paint where they should go.

Cathead, you see that piece of 1x2 wood in front of the main channel. Those are false stanchions for the gunwale rail. But the directions don’t show that one. There’s a dotted line if you’re looking at the. Close enough. I noticed it while I zoomed in on the picture of their built model. 

Edited November 6, 2018 by Glenns_TX

[lmagna]

Looks like you are making progress.

 

The wale looks a little like it has a little wow in it where it curves up and then down again bt to me at least it much better than it was. It also looks like you will have to bring the copper right up to the wale at the stern.

 

In other models I have built, (RC models years ago) I became quite fond of using silicone sealant or glue to attach dissimilar items to decks and other places where you have a relatively large attachment area. I once glued a capstan that has a base of about 1" across onto the stern of a 1/48th scale ocean going tug and was able to tow two people around the lake in an inflatable raft without any issues. It is still firmly attached firmly today some twenty years later with only a thin film of glue between it and the hull. Things like copper strips would probably need something to hold them in place while the glue sets up (30-60 minutes), over night for a full cure. VERY tenacious stuff when set, yet pretty easy clean up if you clean it before it fully sets. 

[Glenns_TX]

She is slowly taking shape. Yesterday, I cleaned up her paint. And glued on her port and starboard cabin windows. Today, I drilled holes for eye bolts and false dead-eyes. Glued in all the eye bolts and the port foremast dead-eyes.

 

[ccoyle]

On 11/3/2018 at 11:26 PM, Glenns_TX said:

Like everything else with this build, I cannot seem to make my vision reality.

Very few of us do on our first model! Far more important is whether you make it to the finish line or not.

[Glenns_TX]

This is getting frustrating. I glued on her stern windows. Then her name. Followed by the decoration above. Well I used padded alligator clamps to hold that on. And look what happened to her name when I removed them.

Not to mention her stern windows. The center one appears centered over the keel. And the others are more or less evenly spaced from it. And yet there is still extra space on her port.

 

[lmagna]

Not sure what to do about the "Bounty" except possibly go down to your local stationary store and see if you can get some Letterset stick on letters and do a Do-over.

http://www.pcbsupplies.com/dry-transfer-lettering-white-letters-by-letraset/

 

You could possibly soak the windows off and re-glue the outer windows into the right position then center the middle window and lastly center the other two windows in the remaining spaces. That should make them evenly spaced all the way across and reach the full distance. 

 

You need to remember you are not dealing with a very high grade quality kit and that makes some things harder than you might expect. Don't be so tough on yourself. Everything you are doing, you are doing for the first time!

Edited November 9, 2018 by lmagna

[GrandpaPhil]

4 hours ago, Glenns_TX said:

This is getting frustrating. I glued on her stern windows. Then her name. Followed by the decoration above. Well I used padded alligator clamps to hold that on. And look what happened to her name when I removed them.

Not to mention her stern windows. The center one appears centered over the keel. And the others are more or less evenly spaced from it. And yet there is still extra space on her port.

 

Microsoft word works wonders for printing out new labels and nameplates.

 

If you’re not happy with the windows, just pop them off and reglue them. 

 

You’re doing great!  Keep at it!

 

Take your time and enjoy.

[Glenns_TX]

Thanks guys. I haven’t give up. Removed the name decal. Going to Hobby Lobby tomorrow to find an alternative. Tried to straighten up and better space her windows. But with imprecise cuts and stern shaping have made it impossible to get perfect. That’s OK.

Then cut and added the tiller box, plastic wood grates and her wheel.

 

 

[Glenns_TX]

I need some help with capstans. The vertical capstan, which is between Main and Mizzen masts are built from wood. The horizontal capstan(Or is it a windlasss) behind the foremast, is diecast metal. Would the Bounty's capstan barrels been wood or iron? I'm unsure how to paint the one behind her foremast.

[Glenns_TX]

Worked on belaying racks. Not sure how anyone can carve the caps they say to make. Tomorrow the pumps and main deck hatchway.

 

 

[GrandpaPhil]

The capstans would have been wood.

[Glenns_TX]

I revisited the belaying racks. They needed more detail than I could achieve with my exacto knife.  For some reason I got the idea to use needle files. So I found some tonight. And gently filed the rack posts. This is better than last night’s version. Wish I hadn’t hacked too much off the fore mizzen belaying racks.

 

[lmagna]

Nice recovery. On to bigger, (Hopefully) and better things!

[Glenns_TX]

So, to build the main hatchway, the instructions and plans say to use 3mm x 1mm for the planks. But the kit only came with two strips of them for the wales. And that did not leave enough left over for 12 planks. Where do you guys get Walnut strips?

[lmagna]

Are there other pieces of  wood strip in the kit left over from other things you have done? If so then you could just use small sections of that wood for your hatch cover instead. If you have a local hobby shop, most of them usually have wood supplies suitable for ship building as well.

[Glenns_TX]

There is a little 2x1. But they show to be used for 6 more belaying racks, hand rails and crows nests. Guess I'm going shopping.

 

When I kit says use walnut stips, are they walnut wood? Or just stained basswood?

[Glenns_TX]

Last night, I built her pumps. What were the pumps for? And rubbed natural finish danish oil on her decks. Tonight, I installed the pumps and her ladders. As well as brushed them with the oil. Built and installed the vertical capstan. Forgot to drill the holes in the top before installing. I’ll do that tomorrow. Also cut the four 2 x 1 mm belaying racks for Main and Mizzen masts which go on the port and starboard bulwarks. But they need to soak overnight. The first 2 cracked when I tried to drill or puncture them.

 

Built her cradle to. But she rocks a little.  I need to make the keel openings deeper.

 

 

 

 

[lmagna]

The pumps were to remove excess water from the lower areas of the ship.

 

For the wood you want, buy what you can that is about the right size and either leave it natural color or stain it if you want it darker. Your choice.

[Glenns_TX]

The kit has a bunch of .6 x 3 mm Tangynika strips left over from the decking. And the plans only call for its use for decking and crows nests. So I will probably use that for the hatchway.

[lmagna]

4 hours ago, Glenns_TX said:

So I will probably use that for the hatchway.

There you go, problem solved again!

[Glenns_TX]

Nearing completion of her deck. I’ll post some picks of her completed deck in a few days.

 

That means I’ll be starting on her masts, yards and rigging. I plan to review Mr. Mastini’s take on this part. As well as any of the PDFs here. But his book and many of the other construction pdf’s tend to focus on lower scale larger builds. My little ship may require special considerations.

During the re-rigging of my 1/159 USS Constitution, I recall thinking it would be easier if I installed one mast and it’s standing rigging at a time. Working from bow to stern. What do you guys suggest?

Edited November 14, 2018 by Glenns_TX

[lmagna]

I am no expert, heck I'm not even a novice, but I think you will find the same is true here. Do the standing rigging first starting at the foremast and work your way aft to the Mizzen. Some people may also like to do the fore stays along the center line before do the back stays along the outer hull.  

Edited November 14, 2018 by lmagna

[Glenns_TX]

Progress has been a little slow. Despite soaking the 2x1mm strips for the main and Mizzen masts’ port and starboard pin racks, they split when drilling. So I used scrap walnut from laser cut pieces. Wish I shaped them better. But I was afraid of breaking them or trimming too much. I glued the on. The. Set all the pins. As well as the eye bolts to lash the launch. 

I  had been debating leaving off her hand rails for fear of breaking them while rigging. But decided it would be more difficult to install them later. I was thinking of painting them yellow. But I’m going to try the oil first. If it looks good, I’ll go with that. The Admiralty were very cheap on the Bounty. They mocked it and its mission. They did not want to deal with it. So maybe the hand rails were unpainted.

 

 

Edited November 16, 2018 by Glenns_TX

[Glenns_TX]

Let the rigging begin.

 

[lmagna]

So now you get to go from horizontal sticks to vertical sticks!  That's called progress! Congratulations

[Glenns_TX]

Not much to report. Busy day doing other things. But tonight I did manage to cut the dowels which make up her masts and bow sprit. Tapered as needed. Then glued them together. Cut and tapered 3 yards.

this is a small kit. Her rigging isn’t very detailed. She did not come with any dead eyes or blocks. Should I bother trying to simulate them by glueing wood scrap in position on the rigging? As for foot ropes, I imagine they would only hand at most 2mm from her yards if I wanted that level of detail.

[lmagna]

Wood scraps in the rigging would look kind of tacky, at least in my opinion for what it is worth. I think it would much better if you buy some 1 or 2 mm seed beads. They still don't look exactly like blocks but they are cheap and easy to work with. As for dead eyes they are readily available through a number of dealers here on MSW and elsewhere. They are also much easier to make using a dowel and small drill. You might want to give it a try before just going super simple. 

[Glenns_TX]

This weekend, I began the masts. The plan is pretty simple. So I followed the plan. 

But the more I thought about it, the more I thought I could do it better. So I thought about using deadeyes. But the dead eyes at this scale are 2mm and 1.5mm. I cannot make them with the tools I have. I can buy 2 and 2.5mm deadeyes. But I’m undecided. That’s still small. So I tabled that for now.

I looked back at Mastini’s book on masts and compared its drawing with the masts in this plan. And thought about how to make the masts similar to his using what I have. First I confirmed this mast technique was in use in the late 18th century. So I carefully broke the glue bonds on the fore mast. Filed the tops of the lower and upper fore.  Then used 2x2mm for the lower fore’s Trestletrees. And 2x1mm for its cheeks. I’ll use 2x1’s for its Crosstrees. For the upper fore, I used 2x1mm for the Trestletrees and 1x1 for the Cross trees. And I’ll deck them with 3x0.6mm Tangynika strips. I’ll need to buy some ply to make the mast tops.

 

 

Edited November 20, 2018 by Glenns_TX