Medway Longboat 1742 by pwallace2 - 1:24 Scale

[pwallace2]

Current status of the long boat is “under the unfinished Swift”.  Made some progress this weekend with the other cabin and bulwarks but I am reminded of how far I have come in hull building, and how far I need to go for rigging.

 

The swift uses “torture the wood and do a second planking” technique and I am really looking forward to the better way to plan on the longboat. 

Edited December 3, 2018 by pwallace2
Update

[pwallace2]

First step is finish up the swift (1805) at least to the point of riggling and clearing the bench. The longboat kit is on site and already starting to use tricks like wipe on poly. 

 

Thanks in advance for following along. 

[ShipWrong]

I just started on this as well. My first wood kit

 

looking forward to your log....nudge nudge

[pwallace2]

We are off the starting line. I chose to start with the frames to get them assembled and tuned for the build board slots. The little extra wood at the edge was used on all the frames as one of the little tabs already feels broken after handeling. 

 

Question: the frames have half of an H for alignment. Should the build board be flat with the outside of the frames even with the bottom of the build board or should the build board be elivated so that the center touches at the top?  I would estimate the difference to be about the thickness of a business card. 

Edited December 19, 2018 by pwallace2

[Chuck]

In some instances the buildboard may be slightly thinner than 1/4".  In these cases you should sand the bottom tabs of each frame so that your frame sits down onto the buildboard.  It shouldnt be higher.  This will happen if your frame tabs stick out on the bottom of the build board a little.  Just sand them down flush.  Hope that helps.

[pwallace2]

Happy holidays!

 

The boat shop is being converted to a spare room for the holidays so the longboat is going into a long box until mid January. 

 

Progress to date is most of the keel and prep work on the frames. I have some ideas for a homemade right angle sanding block as the laser cut is great but I would like to be able to knock down the slight angle from the laser. 

[pwallace2]

Thank you for your patience. 

 

The holidays brought a dremel drill press to the house so in with the small press at out with the 8” delta drill press. 

 

I had some time today to get the ribs glued in and actually got a decent amount of the fairing done.  My baseboard is a little thin so it has feet and packing tape on 3 sides to hold the ribs together. It really helped.  A little more sanding and then the tape lines. 

[Paulintucson]

Ever the prankster. The boat has 9 planks and the planking fan in the download section has 12...

 

[Paulintucson]

On my model either 11 is tall or 12 is short. 

[Chuck]

Yes you have some issues there.   There are some wavy planks with inconsistent widths along their run.  Did you divide all the frames equally?  It looks like there are some very unequal spots.....that will be very problematic if you didnt have pre cut planks.

 

[Paulintucson]

Right you are. Down by the keel is so much worse. I will modify my planking span and try again. If you are able to make a 9 plank span and update the download section that would be nice anthough that’s kinda like cutting a tape measure at 5’ because that is all I need right now. 

[Chuck]

The fan doesnt matter.....its wider because now others can use it for projects that have more planks.  Just use nine of the planks.   I think you might be misunderstanding how the fan is used.   Just cross them out with a pencil if its distracting.

[Paulintucson]

Slow progress. 

 

 

[JeffT]

Nothing wrong with slow...looks good.

[Chuck]

I think its coming along pretty well.  Slowly is the best way!!!

[bear]

Great looking planking. I look forward to getting my kit soon. Now back to working to complete my Nina build. Taking your time and getting it right is a long lasting reward when you look at it years later.

 

Keith

[Paulintucson]

The first 6 rows are in and 3 to go. 

 

In looking forward, the last row is about 1/16” shy at the bow. I have marked out/lined off the planks and used the templates. I started with the garbord in the place it wanted to go and and the gap is getting bigger as I go. 

 

Image is is from the guide and has the correct fitting. I was hoping that the horizontal cap would be a part but the planks are shown flush. 

 

Should I just remake a plank pair, offset the outside layer, or not worry and carry on. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

Edited February 26, 2019 by Paulintucson
Math

[Chuck]

I wouldnt worry about it util you get to the last sheer plank.  Then re-access the situation.  You dont have to fill the entire gap and the cap rail will cover it anyway.

 

Chuck

[Paulintucson]

Thanks for the support Chuck. 

 

I was using the bow end as delivered and taking all of the length off the joint end. Tonight I went the other way and was able to substantially close the gap. 

 

Thanks to the tick lines I knew I was drifting. 

 

I should think about getting paint and wood filler. Is this something you sale?  That new rope is attractive. 

[Chuck]

Thanks...No indont sell paint and wood filler.  But keep in mind that if you do buy filler, use Elmers wood filler.  It is the perfect color match for yellow cedar.

[Paulintucson]

I am back to building with the cap rails on. 

 

Recommendations for the red paint?  

[Chuck]

I have recently switched to using Utrecht Crimson.  

[Paulintucson]

Can I trouble you for a picture of the tube?  

 

It looks like there is an acrylic and oil version with multiple product lines. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

[Paulintucson]

Thanks for the support. I am finishing chapter 3 and moving to the internal details as I get parts in the mail like extra fishing line for nails. 

[Paulintucson]

I am using an acrylic paint for the cap rails. I did not like the look over the wipe on poly surface so I sanded out the roughness and tried again. The inboard knee is next.  After everything is filled and painted I will finish the profile of the edge. 

 

I like the wipe on poly but I am worried about how the mineral spirts will attack the paint or printed frieze. Any tricks for sealing these?  I am making a test piece. 

[BobG]

Your longboat is looking very nice. You are a few steps ahead of where I am in my build. I'm just about to start carving the bolsters. I too would like to know if painting over Wipe-On Poly is okay or if it will create problems? It seems that glue adheres fine to Wipe-On Poly but I'm not sure about painting over it.

 

I also would like to know what is the best way to glue the friezes to the hull and if any sort of sealer or poly is applied over the paper friezes after they are applied?  

[Chuck]

Spray your printed friezes with an artists spray fixative or even Dull coat.  

 

Chuck

[BobG]

5 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Spray your printed friezes with an artists spray fixative or even Dull coat.  

 

Chuck

I assume that we should spray the friezes with the fixative before they are are cut out and applied to the hull. Is that correct?

 

Also, what is the best type of glue should to use to apply the paper friezes to the hull in order to get a nice, smooth fit?

 

Thanks very much,

Bob 

[Chuck]

Yes,  I use an elmers glue stick.  The same type of glue that children use.  It has served me well without any issues at all.  I believe I may have mentioned this in the instructions I wrote.

 

Chuck

[Tigersteve]

Better to apply the wipe on poly after you have a satisfactory paint finish. I’ve found it difficult to apply paint coats over the wipe on poly. That would take many rounds of sanding and painting. Not impossible though. 
Steve