HMS Victory by Rob S - Mamoli - 1/90th scale - first build

[Rob S]

As I transition to the stern section assembly, I want to ensure I'm doing this correctly and with the right materials.  Unlike plastic models where each/every piece is pre-fabricated and available, I'm learning wood models call out for a lot of 'part making' where the modeler does the work.  I know, I know..  yes, I shouldn't have started with the Victory.  Understood.

 

That said, the Mamoli instructions show the main sections (59, 60 & 61) to attach including these strips (62) between the top and bottom sections. Of course the instructions/table is in Italian and calls out for step four (4) using 8 x part numbers 62.  These parts, 62 are described in the accompanying table as:

'Listelli specchio di poppa', Quantity 8, material 'LN' (walnut lath) and Misure of '2x2'.  The 2x2 is in mm.  I've never figured out what is meant by 'Codice' which in this case is 6077.  My understanding is I'll need to measure and cut these roughly 8 x 6cm long (2x2mm) sections from the long, approximately 74cm walnut lath that is 2x2mm.  I'll also need additional 2x2mm walnut material for the stern sides. Finally, I ended up widening the grooves in each of the major sections (59 & 60) below to fit the 6cm by 2x2mm strips. The picture below shows in general how I understand it should be assembled (pre cut) with example of one strip shown.

 

Please feel free to comment/advise on my understanding.  Thanks in advance.

[GrandpaPhil]

Codice translates to code in English.  That could be the original manufacturer’s part number.

 

You might be able to get the exact lengths directly off the inboard profile if there is any question of how long to cut them.

[Rob S]

Thanks Mark; welcome aboard and appreciate your kind words. Yes, the key will be to read ahead and comb through all of the build logs of those who have gone before to avoid some of the pitfalls out there.  Thanks also to Grandpa Phil for the definitions above.  I've started the stern work as you can see.  Slowly but surely!

[Rob S]

Work goes slower than I'd like, but bit by bit she's coming together.  They say a journey of 1,000 miles starts with one step, so here we are.  Pieces seem to be fitting together rather well.  I did need to expand the stern piece side openings to better support pieces 64 - 67, but that was about all.

[Rob S]

Sanding of the bow and stern sections nearly complete.

 

[Rob S]

Working on shaping the stern sections to align with the plans before beginning to add the walnut laths beneath the bottom row of the stern windows.

[Rob S]

Thank you Mark; appreciate the kind words and understand.  Now is the time to get it right rather than attempt to jury rig/fix something later. I'm working on the stern portions now and per the below, will need to do some 'roughing' of the starboard stern support to add in the curve so the planking will fit correctly. 

[Henke]

Morning Rob; at least it is morning for me when I write this. I do not want to dishearten you but I think you need to take a step back and re-think because otherwise planking the stern will be difficult. I had a recollection seeing something on this problem with the Mamoli kit before and after some search on the MSW I found it. Y.T. did a post on this in April last year under the section "Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ship's hull and deck".

 

I have no personal experience from the Mamoli kit but I think you should try to see if there are pictures from other Victory Mamoli build logs to see how this problem can be solved or contact Y.T.

 

Kind regards

 

Henrik

[Henke]

Hi all,

I have to make a clarification on the post above. Y.T. also has a very nice build log on the Mamoli Victory.

 

If you take a look there Rob you will see how Y.T. solved the "stern problem". Y.T. is also very good at planking.

 

Regards

 

Henrik

Edited October 5, 2019 by Henke
Bad spelling

[Rob S]

Thank you Henke; I've looked at YT's log but will go back and relook.  It amazes me the amount of expertise, attention to detail and quality associated with these builds.  My 'hat's off' is to those who have shown what these kits can be.   Below is the current state of the stern.  Since then I've started the planking called out on the third set of instructions and will show where I'm at in the following posts. 

[Rob S]

As I was preparing to begin the planking, I noted the poop deck material split per the below picture.  I inserted some wood glue between the sections using a Q-Tip, clamped it and it looks better now. Just wondering if these kits are subject to this sort of issue.

[Rob S]

Here is where I am with the planking.  I find it difficult to consistently meet the requirements of 8mm between the sections.  I'm also just starting to bend the planks using an electric plank bender.  Hopefully, with the help of those who have done this already - I'll figure it out. As I've looked at other member logs, I see that many appear to be working outside of the order provided by the Mamoli instructions.  I've heard that the instructions are bad, but I'll need to dig into the member logs to identify those booby traps.  In addition to Y.T. referenced by Henrik above, I found modeler Kopeikin, from the Mamoli/Victory logs has some Excellent work/examples out there.

[Rob S]

Thank you Wallace; I took your earlier advice and reviewed YT’s log.  You correctly stated he is an excellent modeler based on the detail available in his log.  I would heartily recommend it to any modeler - new or old.  I also saw that YT is the Kopeikin I defended above.  

 

I started on the top as that is what the Mamoli instructions stated but have since reviewed YT’s log and have now followed his approach.  I also noted that it appears that YT did not install the decks above the first one; interesting.  Here is where I’m at with planking as of this morning.  Before starting with the lower deck, I adjusted it’s position to better align with the bulkhead spacing which in turn will put the deck more in line with the gun ports. 

 

I’ve included a picture of my plank ‘shaper’ tool that is working pretty well so far.  However, I’ve got a long way to go!

 

[Rob S]

Hi Wallace - Thanks for that.  Per the instructions, I did glue the main deck down.  Guess I’ll need some really long tweezers!    The planking is going on as I’m following Y.T.’s approach of adding the metal ports and then planking around them. 

[Rob S]

Thank you again Wallace; appreciate the kind words, advice and encouragement.  Couldn't agree more on Y.T.  Sound advice for any modeler in addition to the 'planking' advice section of this forum. The port side first set of gun ports are placed; some cleanup yet to do to ensure the outboard edges are flush with the planking.  Then to the starboard side and repeat.  Then more planking and gun ports.... I think this will take a while! late fall/winter time is a great modeling opportunity!

[Rob S]

The first set of ports are now fitted both port and starboard. I’ll frame the tops and then begin the same process for each gun deck.

[Emmet]

On 5/26/2019 at 1:38 AM, Henke said:

Welcome to this fantastic forum Rob with friendly and many knowledgeable members (I do not count myself into the knowledgeable group but I am at least friendly 🙂).

 

I have a comment on Item 2 regarding the gradual  rise from bulk head 10 and backwards. This may be the sheer of the deck (longitudinal deck curvature) and in this case sheer aft so do not start sanding yet. Back in time sheer was used to increase stability and prevent pitching. I know because I noticed the same thing on my Agamemnon build which has both sheer aft and forward and therefore asked for advice in my MSW build log. I do not know how good the Mamoli drawings are but check. In my case Caldercraft's drawing actually showed a clear deck sheer although not commented in instructions. This is probably something which the manufacturers believe us modelers to know. Those of us less knowledgeable, count myself in 😎, has to ask about it on MSW.

 

Have you found the quick-find index to build logs at MSW? There are a couple of Mamoli Victory build which can be checked for reference.

 

 

 

Enjoy the build and let's hope it will be a happy ship.

 

Regards

 

Henrik

On 5/26/2019 at 1:38 AM, Henke said:

Welcome to this fantastic forum Rob with friendly and many knowledgeable members (I do not count myself into the knowledgeable group but I am at least friendly 🙂).

 

I have a comment on Item 2 regarding the gradual  rise from bulk head 10 and backwards. This may be the sheer of the deck (longitudinal deck curvature) and in this case sheer aft so do not start sanding yet. Back in time sheer was used to increase stability and prevent pitching. I know because I noticed the same thing on my Agamemnon build which has both sheer aft and forward and therefore asked for advice in my MSW build log. I do not know how good the Mamoli drawings are but check. In my case Caldercraft's drawing actually showed a clear deck sheer although not commented in instructions. This is probably something which the manufacturers believe us modelers to know. Those of us less knowledgeable, count myself in 😎, has to ask about it on MSW.

 

Have you found the quick-find index to build logs at MSW? There are a couple of Mamoli Victory build which can be checked for reference.

 

 

 

Enjoy the build and let's hope it will be a happy ship.

 

Regards

 

Henrik

 

On 5/26/2019 at 1:38 AM, Henke said:

Welcome to this fantastic forum Rob with friendly and many knowledgeable members (I do not count myself into the knowledgeable group but I am at least friendly 🙂).

 

I have a comment on Item 2 regarding the gradual  rise from bulk head 10 and backwards. This may be the sheer of the deck (longitudinal deck curvature) and in this case sheer aft so do not start sanding yet. Back in time sheer was used to increase stability and prevent pitching. I know because I noticed the same thing on my Agamemnon build which has both sheer aft and forward and therefore asked for advice in my MSW build log. I do not know how good the Mamoli drawings are but check. In my case Caldercraft's drawing actually showed a clear deck sheer although not commented in instructions. This is probably something which the manufacturers believe us modelers to know. Those of us less knowledgeable, count myself in 😎, has to ask about it on MSW.

 

Have you found the quick-find index to build logs at MSW? There are a couple of Mamoli Victory build which can be checked for reference.

 

 

 

Enjoy the build and let's hope it will be a happy ship.

 

Regards

 

Henrik

Thanks for the tip on the index of ships.
I am a newbie to the forum. I am planning on building a small victory model. I have had a lot of experience building wood furniture and many other wood projects. I also have skills with small measurements. I have been reviewing many projects on this site and enjoy the ideas and the conversations. I am no longer able to stand for long periods of time and have decided to build a ship or two. Presently (I may change) I am going to start with a1:225 Victory model.  My research here will take some time before I decide where I will start.
Good luck with your project.

Emmet

[Rob S]

The first set of ports are now fitted both port and starboard. I’ll frame the tops and then begin the same process for each gun deck.  Happy New Year everyone!!

[Rob S]

Planning to set all the gun ports with the horizontal and vertical planks and then filling in the blanks.

[Emmet]

8 hours ago, Rob S said:

Planning to set all the gun ports with the horizontal and vertical planks and then filling in the blanks.

Would you please look at my build and give me the details of how you are using the nails to hold the planks.

 

[Rob S]

I've completely framed the upper deck gun ports on both port/starboard sides.  Next is fitting and framing the Middle and Gun deck ports.

[Rob S]

Communicating between our forum members can be a challenge as we (or at least 1) reference various model locations.  I'm including a picture of the Victory deck nomenclature from Plan No. 1 contained in C Nepean Longridge's book 'The Anatomy of Nelson's ships' that I believe is mostly consistent with the nomenclature used in my previous and hopefully, future posts.

[Rob S]

Both Starboard and Port Middle deck ports set. Each port needs to be set against the associated plank. Some planks will need to be adjusted via sanding and wood filler as can be seen. The Middle deck starboard gangway still needs to be set.

Edited January 26, 2020 by Rob S
Adding additional information

[Rob S]

Have set the gun deck ports both port and starboard sides and adding supporting planks as necessary.  Once these are set, I’ll be working to fill in the gaps above and then working planking below the waterline... I’ll be doing some research on the forum planking data base to make sure I minimize my mistakes....

[Rob S]

Planking continues on both port and starboard sides.  I’m working to emulate YT’s approach with not nearly the same results! One note is the damp wood shaped to fit around the bow, turns darker where the small nails are inserted.  I’m certain this will be alleviated by filling/painting as necessary.  Once I get midway, I’ll start working the bottom section which will be the challenge.  I’m spending some time reviewing the planking material in the forum - which is of great help. 

 

[Emmet]

9 hours ago, Rob S said:

Planking continues on both port and starboard sides.  I’m working to emulate YT’s approach with not nearly the same results! One note is the damp wood shaped to fit around the bow, turns darker where the small nails are inserted.  I’m certain this will be alleviated by filling/painting as necessary.  Once I get midway, I’ll start working the bottom section which will be the challenge.  I’m spending some time reviewing the planking material in the forum - which is of great help. 

 

I am happy to see the planking here and will follow this.  I just finished La Nina planking and I think it was terrible but that is how you learn.

[Rob S]

Starting to fill in the spaces between the lower and mid deck gun ports.  Will leave the upper ports open for working in the quarter deck spaces later. Once complete here, will begin planking below mid ships where the real fun begins!  I will be looking closely at Y.T.’s work as I go. 

[Rob S]

Thanks kjs!  Your wish is my command!  Appreciate the advice and thank you.  Wallace provided the same insight.  My plan is to leave the quarter-deck open on each side so the cannons can be inserted.  Then I can fill in the missing planks.  For now I'll finish the lower two decks worth of planking, then work the top of the quarter deck for the five (5) gun ports on port/starboard before working on the mid-ship planking.  This ship is becoming heavy!

 

[Rob S]

Slow but satisfying going.... My pictures seem to highlight the mistakes, but I also recognize wood is flexible with room to resolve errors.  From what I’ve seen Y.T.’s work continues to set a high bar on this kit.  Still working filling in the gun deck planking with work concentrating on the starboard side.  Then the quarter deck ports and will be leaving the gun deck ports open for gun insertion (thanks for the reminder kjs) ... but will focus on the below water line planking first.  Will likely take me through the summer... if I’m fortunate. 

 

Hope all are staying safe from the Coronavirus pandemic.  Good news in that we may have more time in the ‘Shipyard’ (thanks Wallace!) with all the ongoing closures, etc. 

[Henke]

Thanks for posting Rob and having such a nice build log. I follow your work with interest. These "loose" Mamoli gun ports are different compared to my Agamemnon build where each gun port is cut out by hand after first planking and after that lined with balsa tube. I do not know which is best and it does not matter. Stay healthy Rob.

 

Regards

 

Henrik