HMS Pegasus by flyer - FINISHED - Victory Models

[flyer]

The next step is the making of the yards.

A task I don’t really like because the rigging of the yards and booms is tedious to me - especially when you have done the first 4 and still about 8 to go.
 

 

The Yards according to the plans looked partly to be on the heavy side. Therefore I checked the relative yard dimensions with James Lees’ help.

A few diameters had to be changed to a smaller size. This is a great help as I can now use the dowels according plan and still file a octagon where necessary.

 

Only for the main yard I had to take a leftover 8mm dowel as the 6mm octagon in the centre is correct in size. The Fore yard will measure 5mm in the centre and the main topsail yard, the crossjack yard and the fore topsail yard only 4 instead of 6mm. The mizzen topsail yard will have a diameter of 3mm.

The diameters for driver gaff and boom will be 3.1 resp. 3.5 mm.

 

The first one was to be the main yard – in itself quite a project.

The dowel was first filed octagonal and tapered, then filed round where necessary again with the help of my drilling  machine.

The boom brackets’ legs had to be shortened to fit according to plan.

The stunsail inner rings were too large to fit the yard. I cut them open, took out a bit and glued them with CA to the yard.

 

The inner end of the stunsail booms are lashed to the yard.


 

First cleats added

 

Fittings added.

 

 

Painted, blocks added and booms lashed

OK one down, only eleven to go.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[flyer]

 

With the next one, the main topsail yard, I try to show in detail how I work the yards and masts without a lathe.

For the 4mm diameter between the slings the provided 6 mm dowel is fine.

The dowel is cut to length with a bit extra so that a clean end can be made.

Then it’s put into the vice and one side is planed (or filed) down to 5mm. Then it’s turned by 90° and the next side comes down to 5mm.

The next turn by 90° follows and now I work down to 4mm.

One more turn and some work and I end up with a 4mm square stick (square would anyway be the better starting point for most of the yards and the upper masts).

 

 

 

working after the first 90° turn

 

square stick finished

 

 

 

[flyer]

Now I turn the piece by 45° and plane down half of the wood over 4mm.
Then an 180° turn and the opposite side is worked down to 4mm. This is repeated until I have a rough octagon of 4mm diameter.

Then the parallel middle part between the slings is marked and both ends outside of the marks are in the same working order tapered down to 3mm at the ends.

Irregularities can be smoothened with the next step.

after the first 45° turn

 

tapering started

 

 

[flyer]

 

The Yard is then put into a hand drilling machine and the free end is sanded round with increasingly fine sanding paper.

With the left hand I hold the machine and control the rpm’s and with the right I hold the sanding paper and control pressure and sand from tip towards the octagonal section.

The finished end is protected with masking tape when put into the holder of the drilling machine.


The yard is certainly not perfect but small flaws will be covered by paint, the fittings and the rigging.

 

[flyer]

Next the stunsail booms were made. Again some dimensions were missing in the plans but good old James Lees came to the rescue. The outer 2/3 of the boom was tapered from 3 to 2 mm.


Then the mast fittings were added with the same modifications as on the main yard. The Yard was then painted, the blocks added and the booms lashed.

 

Booms and fittings added

 

Last point was a little trick I don’t remember where I did pick it up.

To fix the yard position at the mast, the tip of a nail was glued at the right position into the mast and a corresponding hole drilled into the yard. This loose connection is – of course – not according to the prototype but completely invisible and a nice help when installing the yards definitely.

 

 

Nail tip at the yard position in the mast

 

Yards provisionally placed at the mast


Only ten more to go.... and yes I’m glad they didn’t build many 5-masted ships.


















 

 

 

[vths]

Looks like the modeller's plane is another must have to make proper masts, I should order one   Anyway I strongly suggest to fasten the drill to a level surface, so you could use your both hands to sand the mast or yard and frequently check its thickness. You'll have better control of the whole process and also will be able to correct imperfections using sand paper on a straight piece of wood (or something) at the end of the process.

Edited February 26, 2013 by vths

[Ray]

Hi its coming along well the stunsail booms look good they are a bit tricky to get set right and they look right.

[flyer]

Hi vths(?),
hi Ray

Yes, I think mast building is a lot easier if you have such a plane. And that hint about the fastened drill and the sand paper on a piece of wood seems a very good one. Thank you.

Thank you, Ray. I do my best and to cut and reshape the boom rings (after some hesitating) worked ok.

Cheers

Peter

 

[flyer]

The driver boom is finished. I changed dimensions to the values above and did ad two cleats holding those two double blocks 1/3 from the scarf. And again some cartridge paper ‘iron’ hoops are holding the scarf together.

 

‘iron’ hoops holding the scarf and boom together

 

 

Gaff and boom finished

 

[flyer]

Something more about my shortcuts in the rope work:
 

On my first one and a half models I tried to do rope work as close as possible to the original. Of course I wouldn’t splice but at least try to give a stropped block a close to the original impression and do the seizing by the book. It took forever and the result would nevertheless make any decent bosun stare. This was probably the main reason for the Wasa to stay half finished for over 10 years. When I restarted ship modelling a few years ago I tried to expedite rope work so as not to lose motivation again after half a model. That has carried me far into the third model (after finishing Wasa first).

 

Now about my lazy shortcuts:

 

A block is first held with a single knot. Then a seizing holds the line and the loose end together.

 

To put on a seizing I use now a row of 5 to 7 slings as in the second picture. The ends get a double knot and all is fixed with diluted white glue.

 

Where a block was held with a single strop around a yard with the 2 eyes lashed together I use a reef knot as an  approximation.

 

Of course the bosun will still stare but luckily the stare is diminished by 1/64 and I’m going to hide behind the mainmast if the he is nearby. And the work is done in a reasonable time.

 

The picture here shows the stropping of blocks as we all know how it should be.

 

 

Putting on a ‘seizing’

 

Two ends of line with a block ‘stropped’ in each are laid around the end of the boom and on both sides of the boom a ‘seizing’ is put on.

 

 

The result

 

Double blocks knotted close to each other into the line which is closed around the boom with a reef knot. 2 short seizings hold the blocks.

 

 

Result seen from above

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rdsaplala]

She's coming along very nicely Peter, excellent work on the masts and spars, and that furled sail technique you used on your Granado looks great. Thanks too for sharing your block-stropping technique, it'll come in handy once I reach the rigging stage

[flyer]

Hi Aldo

Thank you. Yes I think those Granado’s look OK but I would still like to have lighter finer seams. On Granado I was using full scale sail sizes and I will try to reduce those to reduce the still rather large bulge on the yards.

Take care

Peter

 

[flyer]

 

All the time, while I was building the yards I kept looking at the Pegasus and was comparing her with other build logs.

 

Several points were either differing with other models or with contemporary pictures in the web and either they were nagging me or had to be explained:

I know, that the colouring of the ship was probably different (e.g. more red on the deck fittings etc.) but as all you probably have are snapshots or descriptions of one particular point in time. I guess the skipper had usually to take what colour was available or could buy and paint more according to his liking. I always liked the Bellona’s colour scheme on the coppered model and decided to follow it.

 

In other logs the side badges were heavily improved to get a proper 3 dimensional look. To correct them I would have to build them anew. Probably too much and I will learn to live with my simplified badges as intended by the kit manufacturer.

Gunport lids will be fixed on the first two and the aftermost 3 ports. This again is not in agreement with some sources but as I try to be a considerate skipper I will pay for the additional lids out of my own pocket.
What would be the use of the installation of bulwarks, if you are unable to close the gunports within those compartments?

 

 

A ship of this size would probably have a lantern. I found one which should suit Pegasus.

 

 

That ornamented side piece left and right of the lower counter is overhanging and doesn’t follow properly the contour of the hull. This should be corrected.

 

 

Stupid me did use the ugly pillars supplied with the kit for the rail along the short gangway or side deck. They will be replaced!

That has to be corrected!

[flyer]

 

A rather easy improvement was the addition of a ships lantern. While browsing trough caldercraft’s fittings I found that the tops lantern should fit Pegasus as a single transom lantern.

For obvious reasons it was only provisionally installed.

 

Assembled lantern (needs some repainting)

 

 

Provisionally installed. I guess it will need two additional diagonal struts for the final installation.

 

 

 

[rdsaplala]

Don't be too hard on yourself, Peter, you're doing an excellent job on your Pegasus, and she's coming along beautifully

That stern lantern you added is a real treat, I'm also leaning towards following your example because the contemporary model of Atalanta shows a similar set up as yours. Thanks very much for your tip on using Caldercraft's tops lantern for replicating this neat detail

[flyer]

Hi Aldo

 

Well I try to be not to hard on me. Thanks anyway.

But looking at what our fellow model ship enthusiasts demonstrate in this forum I sometimes wish I could take everybody’s best tricks…

Do you have a picture of the actual installation of the lantern on HMS Atalanta?

Cheers

Peter

 

[flyer]

The correction of the lower counter’s sides was next.

When first attaching the ornamental piece, I had problems to place it. A main reason could be the straight instead of concave lower counter. (That’s another one of those mistakes which I found out too late to correct it.)

 

First I peeled the offending pieces carefully off. Then I started to cut away with a small cutting wheel following the ornamental lines. The part above the main wale was doubled up with some spare deck planks. After some gilding with paint it could be reinstalled. Voila! It does look better.

 

Old look...

 

...with the ornamental piece heavily overhanging the counter.

 

 

Doubling up the peeled off piece

 

The new look

 

 

 

[flyer]

 

The main topgallant yard was made according the plans. Fast work for once.

 

[flyer]

The crossjack yard was again reduced in diameter to a maximum of 4mm across the octagonal section. So I could use the 6mm dowel.

The diameter of the mizzen topsail yard was reduced to 3mm, making it rather similar to the main topgallant yard.

Checking those lighter yards provisionally mounted on the masts I find the overall picture quite convincing.

 

Crossjack yard finished

 

Provisionally mounted

 

 

 

[mobbsie]

Hi Peter,

 

Pegesus is looking very ship shape my friend, nice work with the aft decorations.

 

Mobbsie

[flyer]

Thank you Mobbsie

 

…although – isn’t there some horse in it?

 

Cheers

Peter

[flyer]

Next came the fore yard.

 

The work was similar to the main yard. The maximum diameter across the octagonal section was reduced to 4,8mm. 

 

The stunsail booms inner rings had to be reduced in diameter again (cut open with a cutting wheel, adjust the remaining length, bend it do a smaller ring and fix with CA).

 

While working on the rings I found that the rings on the main yard are the wrong way. There is a thickening in the boom ring which represents a roll for easier movement of the boom. It should of course be on the lower side of the ring. I don’t know yet if correction is possible.

 

 

 

To fix the stunsail booms I put on a lashing with 7 turns, similar to what is used to fix the bowsprit. First step is to fix the line with a timber hitch on the yard. Then the 7 turns are laid, crossing the existing turns each time when going through the gap between yard and boom.

Edited March 9, 2013 by flyer

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Peter thanks for looking in on my build, it alerted me to your own fine Pegasus. It really is a great kit allowing for all degrees of enchancements and I like what you are doing with yours.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[flyer]

Back in the model yard the fore topsail yard was taken in hand. It was done in a similar way to the fore yard with the maximum thickness of the octagonal section reduced from 6 to 4 mm. Thus the 6 mm dowel could be used.

 

Fortunately this was the last of the rather complicated yards with stun sail booms. Now only 3 rather simple yards remain to be made. Then the masts will be stepped and the rigging work will start in earnest. I find I am actually looking forward to making the ratlines after all that preparation work.

 

Stun sail booms lashed

 

The finished yard

[riverboat]

Nice work on the yards Peter, I'm sure you'll have alot of fun with the ratlines, everyone does!!  

 

frank

[flyer]

Hi blue

(I hope you don’t mind the familiarity, calling you by your first name, but I couldn’t resist when I read about your interest in fermented grapes and blue or ‘blau’ means rather well oiled in German!)

 

 

Thank you for the compliments.

 

Yes, despite all the shortcomings, it is a splendid kit. Only with Caldercrafts Granado I had an even better one. But manufacturers must make money and therefore I guess a shortcut is unavoidable now and then. I’m just glad that we have at least 2 companies which offer kits on a level unknown until a few years ago.

 

Cheers

Peter

[flyer]

Hi Frank

 

Thanks, I will. There could be worse things. Just imagine 5-masted ships could have been the standard of the sailing ships area!

 

Take care

Peter

[flyer]

Next in line was the fore topgallant yard. Here the dimensions in the plan are in agreement with what I found in James Lees’. It was a straightforward job.

 

 

 

 

In between yards I tackled another point on my to-improve-list:

Unfortunately I did use those two ugly pillars on the side deck which were supplied with the kit much to my regret.

 

Finally I took some leftover 3mm dowel, put it in the drilling machine and scratched away with needle files and sandpaper. In three tries I got two nearly similar pillars with a height of 14mm.

 

The old pillars were carefully cut out (they were – as the new ones are - fixed additionally with small nails in their upper and lower end) and substituted by the new ones.

 

It is definitively an improvement and I’m happy how relatively easy it was to fabricate those pillars with the simplest means.

 

Old pillar

 

 

Drilling machine replacing a lathe

 

New pillars not yet cut to length

 

New pillar in place

 

I’ll have to scratch away the superfluous CA glue

[flyer]

(The edges of the plywood parts in the pictures above look partly ugly. Taking up a suggestion from somebody in MSW 1.0 I tried later to paint them in wood color. That’s something I will do in future builds before installing such parts.)

 

 

 

 

The last two yards to make were the spritsail and the sprit topsail yards. They were finished according to the dimensions in the plan. Now all the yards are completed and the next step will be the stepping of the masts and then the rigging will begin in earnest. After all that preparation work I’m actually looking forward to it.

 

 

Spritsail yard

 

Sprit topsail yard

[riverboat]

Nice work on the pillars........