Jump to content

questions for Artesania Marie-Jeanne Fishing Boat


legend

Recommended Posts

Hello All ,

I am not new to modelling and have even built a boat from scratch without the use of plans etc . However having renewed my interest in model building , I am purchasing the Artesania Latina Marie - Jeanne French Tuna Fishing Boat in use from 1900 to 1950 but have a few questions .

First of all can anyone who has built this model tell me if it is double skinned / planked ? and does this just mean you are giving the hull a greater strength ? or are there other advantages ?

Second is it possible to make this model remote controlled ?

Or even better , could you use it as a sailing model if using titebond 3 waterproof glue on all parts and coating the hull with a decent Yacht varnish or a good few coats of paint ? Also what is best for ballast ?

Thanks for any help with this .

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Double planking gives you have a good even surface to put the second layer of planking on.

 

I haven't built it, but according to Nature Coast Hobby Shop, it's double plank on bulkhead.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the kit as well.....I've looked at the instructions,  but that was a while ago.   double planking is up the the modeler really.......I've only build static models,  but if I can get the hull planked good with one layer,  then I'm good with it.  there's no question that the hull would be stronger,  since it means a thicker skin........and water tight,  since you'd be overlapping the underlying plank seams.  but by sealing the inner hull,  you'd be accomplishing the same goal,  and using less wood in the process.  you could even go with thicker planking...ie, 2 mm.   I think that any model can be built remote control if you want........it depends on how much modifying you want to do.   the hardware can serve as some of the ballast......set up mid ship.......the rest can be lead weight or small rocks..   I may be just skipp'in rocks,  but it would be good to start a build log if you intend on doing something tripped out like this.   it could even be fun  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I remember mine correctly the 2nd planking is a .5 mm thin veneer walnut. Since I painted mine I left off the 2nd planking, kept the wood for another project. Link to my build log is in my signature below.  It is a nice kit to build and comes out nice looking

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

There's an index at the top of Kit Build Log area that lists 3 builds for this ship.  I'm attaching a copy of the kit index for you.

 

It looks like 2 are in work and one is finished.  I hope that looking over the logs will answer some of the questions and more.

 

Wooden Ships.pdf

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello All, 

I've now found a source in the UK for pearwood strip and have decided to take some time in building the Artesania "" Marie_Jeanne" and completing the outer Hull planking with Pearwood with a clear varnish finish (unless any member can suggest a more professional ideally waterproof finish?) 

My Question is can anyone tell me what width planking (in mm) would best represent the original planking on this boat and how many metres/feet I would need to complete it? 

Could you also suggest a nice planking for the decking that would complement the pearwood? 

With thanks

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

 

Fortunately I did not toss out my original kit plans for Mare Jeanne.  The hull planking is 1.5 x 5 x 400 mm (quantity 40); deck planking is 0.6 x 5 x 400 mm (quantity 22).  Plank sheer is 1.5 x 5 x 230 mm.  The kit comes with Ramin wood for these pieces.  Hope this helps.

 

Jack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First off, the only reason for a second layer of planking on a model is pure looks of the finished product for those who aren't really great at planking and wind up using a ton of putty. Secondly, if your goal is to make this model sea worthy, then your best bet is to use fiberglass cloth both inside and out and coated with 3-4 coats of fiberglass resin thinned out a bit to help it lay smooth while curing. You can use any glue you want whether it be water proof or not, some use bondo putty like they use for cars. Once it's covered with cloth and resin, you could probably drop it off a bridge and it would still float. I usually use 2oz for smaller boats and 4oz cloth for 36" or larger. You can make any boat R/C as long as you have room for the running gear.

 

 

mike   

Edited by mtdoramike
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello All, 

Just a follow on from the actual Hull planking process. I intend to leave the top third of the Hull fine sanded and oiled or varnished in natural wood, the next third (middle section) an Ivory colour (Acrylic or ename?), and the bottom third in crimson (Acrylic or enamel?). My question is acrylic or enamel? Reasons and are both waterproof? When dry. Can both be varnished over using yacht varnish? 

Thanks for your time

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Jack ,

I have just bought an Artesania Latina "Marie Jeanne" from an ebay seller (who has a good selling rating ) and when Ive started to put the model together have only just realised that it is a lot smaller than the 565mm length stated for this model  . The keel measures around 325mm in length !!!

Was there a smaller model version made by Artesania Latina  ?

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, legend said:

 Was there a smaller model version made by Artesania Latina  ?

Not that I am aware of. The keel on my finished model measures about 10 inches, the bow to stern measurement at the gunwale is about 16 inches. (Sorry I'm not metric literate ;)) The box my kit came in gives the dimensions as length 565 mm (22 1/4 inches), height 495 mm (19 1/2 "), beam 115 mm (4 1/2 "), which matches your model kit..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't tell. I have it in the Billing Boats version (old one), and it seems to me quite  a high rig , compared to the hull depth. I guess that you need to build light, and add a considerable weight in an extended keel to get her a stable sailer. (If ever you get a ship this size Rc controlled, and sailing). Most of AL kits are designed as static model, so you may have to do some serious rebuilding, and resawing frames and fales keel)

 

Jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...