Weak Joints - Deadeye Strops

[VTHokiEE]

I decided to try my hand at making some deadeye strops this morning and I seem to be failing spectacularly. I create a ring out of brass wire and then attempt to solder the joint together. When I place the deadeye in the ring and begin to crimp the ring the joint breaks and I can't seem to figure out what I am doing wrong. I was using Solder-it Paste but that seemed to be dripping everywhere and I am contemplating getting solder wire as that may be a little more comfortable for me. I realize there isn't much information here, and that's probably my issue, I'm probably missing a step or two.

 

Alternatively, does anyone know where I can buy small brass loops until I figure out my solder issue?

 

Thanks for any guidance!

[davyboy]

You really need silver solder for joining brass wire. Ordinary solder is useless for this.

 

Dave 

[VTHokiEE]

31 minutes ago, davyboy said:

You really need silver solder for joining brass wire. Ordinary solder is useless for this.

 

Dave 

Thanks, I’ll try a different solder. I was under the (apparently mistake) impression that this solder paste was silver solder.

[wefalck]

And you need the appropriate heat-source, a torch, as the melting point would be around 600°C as opposed to 350°C or lower for soft-solder. There are silver-soldering pastes, btw.

[VTHokiEE]

14 minutes ago, wefalck said:

And you need the appropriate heat-source, a torch, as the melting point would be around 600°C as opposed to 350°C or lower for soft-solder. There are silver-soldering pastes, btw.

Any thoughts on specific pastes? I’m considering ordering some solder called Stay Brite which seems to have a favorable reputation on the forum, but it isn’t a paste (at least not that I saw during a quick glance).

[wefalck]

Living in France I use a French product ...

[allanyed]

If you are in the US, one great supplier that I have used for silver solder paste is Contenti as they offer it in different melt points in syringes so it is easy to dispense tiny amounts for tiny joints.  The benefit of multiple melt point solders is important if soldering more than just two pieces such as a ring in a ring.   You can start with higher temperature paste then work down when adding other pieces if a project does require several parts.  This prevents the initial solder joints from melting when the second and third pieces are added.   https://contenti.com/jewelry-soldering-supplies/solder   They have a complete line of materials from pickeling materials such as Sparex to the solder itself.  Remember that the contact points must be completely clean and must be touching.  Even a tiny gap will prevent the joint from being made as the solder is not meant for filling space at all.  Once the joint is made, clean it thoroughly and then blacken or even paint it if called for.   All comes down to practice, practice, practice in the end.

Allan

[VTHokiEE]

Thanks Allan! I am in the US and I'll order a syringe (or a few) and start practicing. After researching the technique, I think I might be applying too much heat (placing the torch too close to the ring) and I think I could used a ceramic "plate" to place the rings on while I solder. Fingers crossed

Edited October 28, 2019 by VTHokiEE

[allanyed]

I am sure you will do well VTH.   If you are just doing the rings, use the lowest melt point choice that you purchase   Depending on the diameter of the wire, it is not unheard of to melt the brass ring itself (I speak from experience here.)   I wear magnifiers for both protection and so I can see the instant the solder liquifies and runs along the wire itself, which it will do.  I little trick is to put the solder on the joint itself and maybe a little off to one side of the ring.  Heat the opposite side of the joint and the solder will run to the hottest spot where you are applying the heat. 

Allan

[kurtvd19]

Stay-Brite is a silver bearing solder - not a true silver solder as it melts at a lower temperature.  However it plates and blackens like a silver solder.  It is strong enough for any rigging application and it is easier to use than a true silver solder.

The silver solder pastes work well and are fairly easy to use.  But they are not needed for strength in this application.

Kurt