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Posted

I have made the skeg and epoxied it and the rudder tube to the hull.

The deck was then glued on with Titebond ultimate waterproof glue.

Had a few panic moments as I had literally 5 minutes to pin it all on.

Its a hot day out here and glue goes off dead quick.

5 minute epoxy becomes one minute epoxy. No kidding you.

Now for the exciting bit.

Cut a gurt hole in it and fit a cabin on.

The plans say cabin is optional but I think a 60s yacht must have a cabin.

I think I will also fit rubbing strips like Emma.

 

Pete

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Posted

A bit of help please?

Vic Smeed has designed this model boat with the winch drum protruding through the cabin roof.

I am aware of the fact that this is a " model" boat and sailing models are built differently to the real thing.

I am very much an advocate of simplicity as was VS who designed it so.

My first thoughts are to build it as a 60s model boat as per plan as there were reasons why he designed the winch mounting so.

My mature son thinks " That is stupid".

But Vic Smeed was far from stupid.

I do not know how to proceed.

I will very much welcome your comments on this matter please.

To be specific...

Can you see any advantages in having the winch wheel poking through the top of the cabin roof?

Please answer as I am at a stop now in knowing what is best to do?

Thanks

Pete

Posted

When sailing the sails need to be pulled tighter to the center as you turn closer into the wind. If you do not have RC equipment in the boat you would have to adjust the sails per the direction you want the boat to sail. You could perhaps use a cleat in place of the drum.

Posted

The mainsail sheet in mounted at the end of the boom and runs forward until it can turn down to the helmsman for adjustment.  The jib sheets angle to where the crew can handle them.  Having no crew and helmsman on a RC sailboat, the jib is rigged for only one sheet, not two and both main and jib sheets go to the one winch. If you are going to use RC,  look at the modern servos.  They are the big arm or drum types.  I would try to rig the sheets to go thru the desks  and not the cabin roof, which needs to be removable.  If you are interested in going the RC route, web search "starlet or star model yachts".  You can see what people have done to rig their "Starlets".  The "Star" is a very popular larger size RC sailboat.  There is three days (at least) of reading on rigging and fittings for model yachts on the web.  As a warning, those RC yachting types are very serious competitors.

Posted

Peter, I've never built an RC yacht, but I would assume that VS designed the winch like that for ease of building. It surely wouldn't be too difficult to mount the winch below decks and lead the sheets down to it.

 

John

Posted
1 hour ago, Jim Lad said:

Peter, I've never built an RC yacht, but I would assume that VS designed the winch like that for ease of building. It surely wouldn't be too difficult to mount the winch below decks and lead the sheets down to it.

 

John

Hi John.

I think you ars right.

Ease of building.

I must admit it does look a bit weird having a gurt winch poking through the roof!!!

I can surely mount it lower and out of sight.

Looking at other models of Starlet, builders have done the same.

Its quite a big heavy winch as well and that load is best placed low as pos.

Pete

Posted
1 hour ago, PopDavid said:

The mainsail sheet in mounted at the end of the boom and runs forward until it can turn down to the helmsman for adjustment.  The jib sheets angle to where the crew can handle them.  Having no crew and helmsman on a RC sailboat, the jib is rigged for only one sheet, not two and both main and jib sheets go to the one winch. If you are going to use RC,  look at the modern servos.  They are the big arm or drum types.  I would try to rig the sheets to go thru the desks  and not the cabin roof, which needs to be removable.  If you are interested in going the RC route, web search "starlet or star model yachts".  You can see what people have done to rig their "Starlets".  The "Star" is a very popular larger size RC sailboat.  There is three days (at least) of reading on rigging and fittings for model yachts on the web.  As a warning, those RC yachting types are very serious competitors.

Thank you David.

I am okay with how to rig it and indeed already have the winch.

It was a question of why it was designed in the plans to poke through the roof.

Apart from being unsightly I see no benefits save that of ease of construction like John pointed out.

My first thoughts were ease of operation but it can operate just as well when below decks.

I take your hint with competitive model yachting.

I am not going down that path.

I believe that if one gets that serious then the fun of sailing a boat goes because it has not beaten another or all of them.

I do like though to build up a good knowledge of sails, rigging and their various benefits.

I belong to a non competitive model boat club whereas  it is against the rules to compete.

To compare and glare is okay!

Pete

Posted

I wonder what Mr Smeed shows on his other yacht plans.  I would have to look back through my "Model Boat" collection to see what winches where operated and made back in those days.  It could be since no interior views are shown, it was just a quick way to illustrate the rig.  Certainly, is not practical.  My "Model Boat" free full size plans for Starlet are sitting here on my desk within easy reach.  Somehow it does not look as big as the pictures.  Laying around my shipyard is a false keel and a pile of frames that long ago must have been a building start.  May have to rethink that project to offer the grand-kids an option to trains.  How do you plan to make the keel weight?

Posted (edited)

I have decided to mount the winch inside the hull!

Will show details later.

The plans are pleasantly basic but I have also decided to include a rubbing strip on each side.

It kinda puts the edge on it ( pardon the pun).

I have also lengthened the cut out so as to incorporate a cockpit which should also improve the general looks.

My mates at work cast these bulb halves perfectly in lead. I am so grateful and pleased.

So happy today.

You will notice that the outline is not perfect.

Buggar!!!!

I so wanted this to be my perfect model as an ode to Vic Smeed.

Sigh and head down.....perhaps the next one?

Been there?

 

Pete.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Peter Cane
Corrections
Posted
13 hours ago, PopDavid said:

I wonder what Mr Smeed shows on his other yacht plans.  I would have to look back through my "Model Boat" collection to see what winches where operated and made back in those days.  It could be since no interior views are shown, it was just a quick way to illustrate the rig.  Certainly, is not practical.  My "Model Boat" free full size plans for Starlet are sitting here on my desk within easy reach.  Somehow it does not look as big as the pictures.  Laying around my shipyard is a false keel and a pile of frames that long ago must have been a building start.  May have to rethink that project to offer the grand-kids an option to trains.  How do you plan to make the keel weight?

Hello Pop David and thanks for your input.

I almost missed it!

Yes I think you are right as far as impractical is concerned.

As John has said, we think Vic drew it in there as an easy option.

I have his model yacht book and there is a drawing there on methods of mounting a winch.

I am sold on one particular method, that of mounting a pulley wheel farthest astern and a post farthest fore to which will be attached an elasticated chord to a triangular bridal( bowsie) . The jib and majn boom line will pass through this bowsie and go direct to the jib and boom.

Albeit that the jib/ boom angle can be simply adjusted by altering the the loop through the bowsie.

The elasticated chord is just enough to take up the slack when both sails are fully out.

Pictures to follow when I have done it.

I am on the case right now.

And Yes!!!! The boat does come out bigger than the plan!!!

It surprised me!

She is a good armfull I can promise you.

I love it.

Indeed I have a grandson 13 who comes out sailing with me.

When he discovers " girls" or gets a new mobile phone for christmas then thats that one up the creek.

My friends at work cast the bulb halves for me.

I just made and gave them the mould.

Pete

Posted

The cabin is now fixed into position and includes two mahoghany thwarts. ( only the best )

I could then play around with where best to situate the winch and the cable runs.

The general arrangement is that there are two pulleys that are situated so that one is furthest fore and the other furthest aft.

The aft pulley is a metal sewing machine bobbin.

The jib fairlead is a piece of brass tubing bent to a right angle and flaired both ends.

The same procedure will be used for the mainsheet fairlead which will affix to the rear of the cabin where shown taped.

A length of elastic is fastened to the centre of a triangular bridle plate and opposite that is affixed the lead running to the winch.

The jib lead and mainsail lead run through the other two holes in the plate forming a sort of bowsie/ bridle.

This method allows adjustment to the jib and main sail feed proportionally.

I can adjust the jib to match the mainsail now.

The elastic serves only to take up any slack in the leads and to avoid probable tangles when letting out the sails.

It does not bare the strain of the jib or mainsail leads.

The plans did not call for a cockpit area but I thought it would look better with one?

Pete

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Posted

Thank you for the likes and comments.

I have added a duck board and companion way.

It is set to the left so the skipper does not hit his head on the boom!....ahem!.

You can now have a better idea on how the sheeting will work and I have upgraded the twine for some heavy duty stuff.

All tested with the radio and works.

Thats about it for cockpit adornments and I think it gives the impression intended.

I want to make and fit a skipper though.

I see so many beautifully made boats but no ones driving em!!!!

I have an idea to swivel him on a weighted pendulum so that he swaps sides according to the heel.

The theory of it is in my head but I will have to make a mock up first.

I hope you like my flanged brass steam pipes!!!

Pete.

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Posted

Pete, that is looking really nice.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Posted

A moving helms person.  I would use a separate channel or if your radio has it, a two position  on-off switch.  Just don't let him get fouled in the sheets.  My Dad and I where running second in a local Windmill (15 1/2 foot one design) class boat race.  Dad ordered 'come about'.  Jib sheet fouled, I got stuck crossing over.  By the time I stood up, the starboard rail was in the water, and the boat was on it's side.  End of race!

Posted
On 12/1/2019 at 2:49 PM, PopDavid said:

A moving helms person.  I would use a separate channel or if your radio has it, a two position  on-off switch.  Just don't let him get fouled in the sheets.  My Dad and I where running second in a local Windmill (15 1/2 foot one design) class boat race.  Dad ordered 'come about'.  Jib sheet fouled, I got stuck crossing over.  By the time I stood up, the starboard rail was in the water, and the boat was on it's side.  End of race!

Thanks Pop.

I will give it some thought.

My son came up with " stick two people in it Dad...one esch side"

Never thought of that one.

I may be a bit quiet for a bit as Christmas is nearly on us and I have to make some presents.

Pete

Posted

Starlet decided that she would have a go at flying but unfortunately because she is not fitted with wings she hit the garage floor full on the nose / beak!!...stupid boat!!!

I am so pleased I fitted a rubbing strip.

There are a few pics of the repair.

Meanwhile the mast step has now been made and the fore cabin that is not removeable, fixed in position to house the mast step.

I have beefed it up a bit from the plan.

I was given a fully sailing radio controlled yacht complete with working radio, servos and a good hefty winch!

I have stripped it down and Starlet will now have a super mast from the gift yacht.

I am having megga problems trying to find spruce out here for the mast and boom etc so this gift yacht was a godsend. Saves me the headache searching.

There is a lot to be said for " kits" whereas everything you need is in the box!

The mast is grooved to take the luff so that is a big bonus. It is also fitted with a boom and sails plus all rigging.

Starlet will now have a free set of sails.

I will have to alter them slightly.

I had to shorten the mast top by 4" which was a breeze.

I am now in the process of dry rigging her to make sure everything fits.

Pete

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Posted

Does anyone know if this size model should have a post between the mast step and the keel?   Maybe I am too used to full size yachts with mast stepped on deck that do require a support.  Lifetime experiences getting in my way, no support was the first thing I saw in the picture of the mast step and I worried the cabin and deck would deflect downwards under load.

Posted
1 hour ago, PopDavid said:

Does anyone know if this size model should have a post between the mast step and the keel?   Maybe I am too used to full size yachts with mast stepped on deck that do require a support.  Lifetime experiences getting in my way, no support was the first thing I saw in the picture of the mast step and I worried the cabin and deck would deflect downwards under load.

That is a very good point and well observed Sir!

I thought the same but the plan does not call for a mast post unless I have missed it.

The fore cabin strengthener on the plan is but one 3/16" shaped spar and then the 1/16" birch ply deck.

I have actually " beefed" up the plan recommendations by fixing in a somewhat sturdier cross brace and extra T piece system adjoing it directly under the mast.

The pieces are of red cedar which is strong and light and Also sawn to  the shape of a suspension bridge which I thought should do the job.

However I am all ears to hear if a mast post should be incorporated.

Pete

Posted

I did not like the black alluminium boom as it was a good 4" short and somewhat heavy.

I found a nice piece of Sitka Spruce that is normally used for guitar bracing.

I got it from a luthier supplies.

It is quarter sawn, strong and very light.

I used the original gooseneck but made up a brass wrap to stop the clew out haul brass eye from splitting the end.

It is screwed and soldered in.

In order to get the sharp corners on the sheet brass wrap I used a dremel with a cutting disc to carefully grind the marked lines to half the depth. It folded nicely after that.

Pete

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Posted (edited)

Further to the plot.

I am a bit down at the moment because my brain is not working 100% ( never did) and I am making a lot of mistakes.

But without these mistakes I cannot learn.

So first off I am dry rigging Starlet to get her reasonably right.

There is a lot to learn with sail making and I am not close yet...cambers and stuff will come later once I have built a basic sail.

I think I have hit on that the most camber needs to be at the leach to create a balloon effect and catch the wind but it also has to let the air escape....

A fine balance that I am studying.

Then there is sail twist...OMG I will not be able to sleep!

With the old square riggers you make as static models then all what I have said must have been considered by the sail makers.

I have made a mainsail from kite nylon.

1 It is not stiff enough.

2 I used double sided tape to form the hems and then over sewed them with the machine.

3 This resulted in wrinkles / puckers which you can see.

4 The sewing machine needle gummed up with the double sided tape and frayed the thread so many times it became exhaustingly tedious.

I had to clean out the needle with alcohol on a cloth so many times......this is Not the way ahead!

5 I used the squares in the rip stop nylon as a guide to get a 90 degree luff to sail foot.

As you can see it didnt work.

6 I have taped the kicking strap into position so you can see where it is located.

7 The Leach should have a gradual curve....

I forgot to do that.

8 The soldering iron never got hot enough to cut the leach....Aghhh anything else to go wrong?

9. The fabric is too flimsey.

10. I show pictures of my two sewing machines.

( I take great plesure in sewing up my own style Grandpa shirts from linen).

You can see that the modern Singer zipper foot got nowhere near enough to sew the bolt rope tightly....

Out comes my favourite 1950s Pfaff 30 with zipper foot.

You can clearly see the difference.

Many a good tune played on an old fiddle!!!

11. The mainsl is not long enough!!!

Finally I am intrigued by your observations of the media I have scattered around my workshop bedlem.

I have posted a particular image that ( should ) create some amusement.

Lets see how observant you really are!!!

So my very good friends, out comes the wine and fags and woah is me!.

About the only thing I am happy about is the boom I made.

It is quite whacky, long, will cater for max sail area.

If the sailors amongst you think its too long then please speak up.

It clears the rear stay easily.

Pete

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Edited by Peter Cane

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