Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
11 hours ago, shipman said:

Mmm......you've touched on the subject of bone as a modelling material. I've often wondered how the stuff is cleaned and prepared for use. I built up a small collection of old bone spoons, but you don't find them anymore. They do develop interesting patina. Once cured and treated, how does it cut, saw etc? Folk do sell some colosal raw bones on the net. My dog is wagging her tail......I know she likes a bone.

Funnily enough, I was thinking maybe the leftover bones from some lamb shanks I had last week would've provided an excellent supply and after some armchair "googling", it seems mutton stew was a staple diet for French captives held in England during the Napoleonic wars after all!

 

Bone spars would surely be a stronger material than the lousy plastic spars I have been using for this build...

 

But I digress. 😁

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

It has been a while since my last update, but after some accidents...

 

IMG_20200922_164350.thumb.jpg.389d1bf1436e0faa4f718648f978bc37.jpg

 

And more struggles with the sail rig (minus sails), trying to understand how to tie off certain lines etc.

 

IMG_20200928_142319.thumb.jpg.7c243f3c6e0834ad20bb511e976e2b0b.jpg

 

I lost patience and finally installed the studdingsail booms. I decided not to make changes to the kit molded booms but perhaps with more foresight earlier on in the build, I should have molded the boom supports out of copper wire...

 

 

 

 

Posted

Tied off the fore tack. Had to fashion an extra square styrene block to the forecastle rail to tie off to... I am pretty sure I fit the head rails properly though, perhaps an error in the Airfix kit?

 

IMG_20200929_195431.thumb.jpg.24720db5e886470b757b116032949965.jpg

 

Now to tackle the davit lifts. 

 

IMG_20200929_195319.thumb.jpg.8ea8baa64033611b5b75d1009c43cadc.jpg

 

Test drilled 4 holes so I can rig the tackle for one of the lifeboats. Eyebolts (a little large at 2mm) added to the sides.

 

IMG_20200929_201406.thumb.jpg.ad11a28b1c8d6192d3611575e1133659.jpg

 

Some putty to tidy up some holes in the kit supplied bit.

 

Added foot steps using thinly sliced styrene, it'll look better once it's painted 😅

 

IMG_20200929_201453.thumb.jpg.ca94cebd63660fd3b3068a0b039a58d5.jpg

Posted

Thank you Keith, that is very kind of you. I think I got a little carried away with this build during the pandemic...

 

IMG_20201001_151741.thumb.jpg.86ba445e1b36a894eee562e3b001aaf8.jpg

 

The plastic spars look good proportionally but is definitely lacking in tensile strength. The spritsail yard is horribly curved upwards! I wish I had the confidence and skill to replace them with wood/brass.... Tapering them would be a real challenge?

 

I am avoiding tackling the cannons and gunport covers until I can decide whether to cover those nasty ridges along the ship's hull with putty to achieve a smoother surface, or perhaps weather the hull instead. Or both.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Ron

 

Posted

Come so far and learned so much! The learning will be the value you carry over to your next build.

It's a bit late to address the issues with the moulded hull 'planks'; a feature which spoils an otherwise excellent rendition of the ships hull.

The simplest way to replace the plastic spars would be to sand bamboo skewers on a flat board, along their length. The octagonal sections could be hand planed or scraped using square section hardwood. end drilled to take the tapered outer sections and glued. Accept a small failure rate:- the materials would be cheap but, it's surprising how quick it is. Again, too late now.

Reward yourself with acknowledging what you've achieved with what is a minor masterclass of a model.

 

Posted
On 10/1/2020 at 7:08 PM, shipman said:

Come so far and learned so much! The learning will be the value you carry over to your next build.

It's a bit late to address the issues with the moulded hull 'planks'; a feature which spoils an otherwise excellent rendition of the ships hull.

The simplest way to replace the plastic spars would be to sand bamboo skewers on a flat board, along their length. The octagonal sections could be hand planed or scraped using square section hardwood. end drilled to take the tapered outer sections and glued. Accept a small failure rate:- the materials would be cheap but, it's surprising how quick it is. Again, too late now.

Reward yourself with acknowledging what you've achieved with what is a minor masterclass of a model.

 

 

Certainly been a fun build and steep learning curve. There is so much I wish I had done differently now, but I guess that's the beauty of hindsight isn't it?

 

I think I will use your bamboo skewer idea (was thinking toothpicks intially but realised they won't be long enough) after all to complete the main lower studding sail booms which weren't included in the kit...thank you for that suggestion! 

Posted

Just remembered, bamboo chopsticks are available, some with a square section. They could be converted to spars with a little thought, so the central octagonal section and the tapered outer section can be in one piece. If you can find the correct type, bamboo is a remarkable material.

Posted

Continuing on with the quarter davits...

 

IMG_20201003_011814.thumb.jpg.cacdbf7f04b715075489f58ae8928b05.jpg

 

Because I had snapped one of the davits earlier on in the build, copper wire was drilled in as a replacement to bite into the hull. Actually I found this made it easier to adjust their positions due to its malleability.

 

IMG_20201005_164826.thumb.jpg.2bb98d1efd55f84480c93aee740cfcca.jpg

 

Then it was time to make use of the pre-etched 3mm single block hooks (with a pre-formed becket strop). Although rigging it with thread would've been just as acceptable.

 

 

\IMG_20201005_181517.thumb.jpg.685ae942852b699bc5cdec027122b21d.jpg

 

I wasn't happy with the kit molded oars for the boats so I had a go at slicing it up. It will be difficult to sand this as the oar diameter is now about 1.5mm thick. Perhaps it won't be so obvious once they are lashed together? Maybe I will continue carefully slicing off bits to even it out...

 

 

Screenshot_20201005-182512.thumb.jpg.0c0a6871f3ba4e26dfe35a462f132586.jpg

 

And now a little test fitting of the boats. I was able to repurpose some parrel beads for the topping lifts.

 

My custom cleats made from copper wire weren't fit for purpose unfortunately so I may have to resort to tying off the falls around the davits...

 

 

IMG_20201005_170459.thumb.jpg.a28478912e30da35d8830617e249358e.jpg

 

I think I'll leave it untied for now and tread carefully in case the boat gets in the way of the anchors later.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Ron

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Yet another update...

 

IMG_20201014_224836.thumb.jpg.ce41abfb6e87dd84c34429c5f26ddc53.jpg

 

Boats rigged to davits.

 

IMG_20201014_224809.thumb.jpg.fb22376773bca380f68b837154a2f6de.jpg

 

A bit too much slack between the quarter davits on the port side so I will have to redo the seizing again... curses.

 

Pseudo-cannons mounted, however the horrible kit holes to accept them were all of varying sizes.  Spent quite a bit of time widening them...

 

 

 

IMG_20201014_224148.thumb.jpg.175ce8228dd20bd918421cfd49add822.jpg

 

Next I had a test run on the gun port covers using 1mm brass eyebolts. I couldn't get my hands on finer thread (if it exists in this colour) as most retail stores are still shut over here in Melbourne so I used 0.10mm beige thread. Tied off the eyebolts by passing a sewing needle through itself and a drop of CA to secure it. Unfortunately the CA does actually cause the thread to swell up a bit which was a pity. The ends of the thread were stiffened with CA as well in order to thread them into the hull.

 

IMG_20201014_224612.thumb.jpg.6c83552c547e4ea311f83da429703108.jpg

 

And now for the horrible macro close up, warts and all. There isn't much space left to drill into the covers but maybe I could cut some eyebolts and directly CA it to the undersides... Again this was just a test run before I go ahead and order a (lot) more of these difficult to find 1mm eyebolts online.

 

IMG_20201014_224620.thumb.jpg.32650aca88835f188862e4dead95dd72.jpg

 

It is a tad overscale. Maybe silk thread (if I can get my hands on it) might be a better material?

 

Cheers,

 

Ron

 

 

 

Posted
Posted

Beware of the tedium of making the quantity of eye bolts (and similar details) a ship like the Victory requires. Especially at this scale. That's a doorway into a measurable level of the autism spectrum.

Copper eye bolts are just cosmetic; put any sort of strain on them and they distort as if you'd used liquorice.

Hard brass wire would be ok. If you can find photo etch for these in your scale, you'd be a fool not to get them. Time is precious, don't waste too much of it all at once.

Posted
2 hours ago, shipman said:

Beware of the tedium of making the quantity of eye bolts (and similar details) a ship like the Victory requires. Especially at this scale. That's a doorway into a measurable level of the autism spectrum.

Copper eye bolts are just cosmetic; put any sort of strain on them and they distort as if you'd used liquorice.

Hard brass wire would be ok. If you can find photo etch for these in your scale, you'd be a fool not to get them. Time is precious, don't waste too much of it all at once.

 

Honestly I'm not sure if it is worth the trouble, but I would've felt strange seeing the gunports hanging of it's own volition without the eyebolts + rope... Unfortunately that means I'll need 400+ eyebolts since I've committed to it now 🤣

 

One day when I'm more resourceful and experienced, I might just give it a shot at hand made eyebolts, Patrick! Maybe at a larger scale though...

 

By the way, shipman, since you've had extensive experience with Noel Hackney's books, I wanted to ask whether there is much difference building the Golden Hind compared to the Mayflower? Book 2 deals with the Mayflower but I think they are ships of a similar era? Also would you recommend the AIRFIX or Revell versions for either?

 

Cheers

 

Ron

Posted

Just have to comment after browsing through; the detail work you've been able to add, particularly in the rigging department, is quite amazing.

 

I have a little Lindberg La Flore (28-gun Corvette) I've been working up to convert into an HMS Surprise for years, and your work is inspiring for what can be done in plastic at this scale.

 

Your log has also turned me on to the Noel CL Hackney book, which while specific to Victory, will have much the same rigging plan as any Royal Navy post ship of the era. I only wish the cost/availability of the book hadn't risen so precipitously in recent years. Seems it's routinely going for $50 to $100 and beyond currently.

Posted
8 hours ago, senna1 said:

Just have to comment after browsing through; the detail work you've been able to add, particularly in the rigging department, is quite amazing.

 

I have a little Lindberg La Flore (28-gun Corvette) I've been working up to convert into an HMS Surprise for years, and your work is inspiring for what can be done in plastic at this scale.

 

Your log has also turned me on to the Noel CL Hackney book, which while specific to Victory, will have much the same rigging plan as any Royal Navy post ship of the era. I only wish the cost/availability of the book hadn't risen so precipitously in recent years. Seems it's routinely going for $50 to $100 and beyond currently.

Thank you for your kind comments. Having gained some valuable experience during this build, I shudder when looking through my older posts. Glad I was able to cover up my shoddy hull work in a sea of rigging though haha.

 

Actually if you shop around 2nd hand book sites, you should be able to pickup Hackney's manuals at a reasonable price (I got mine for £4.99!). Just picked up manual #2 (the Mayflower) for a little bit more at approx £15!

 

I would suggest to go for a larger scale build (although this 1/180 scale does sit nicely on the desk), it is so much easier to rig, seize lines, access belaying pins etc... Will save you depositing a fortune into your swear jar 🙂.

 

 

 

 

Posted

Meeee again. The Hackney books.....as I understand it, the three books, Victory, Cutty Sark and Mayflower titles were originally written deliberately to cover the three periods and give a representative guide for many ships that would loosely fall into those categories. My opinion (for what it's worth) is the average modeller, as intended, would have a sound guide; being a massive upgrade of information considering the very basic kit instructions. The Victory and Cutty Sark Longridge books take you that much further again.

I was never tempted by the Mayflower period ships, simply because so little firm evidence of their detailed configuration exists other than conjecture. The Wassa is another story but the available kit scales are a discouragement to what detail you may want to depict.

Of course much research has come to light (in the 50 years since I got interested) to correct much of this.

If you remember, I suggested the Airfix Bounty as a possible next project. That to me, seems a logical progression for your learning curve. I believe that was the last sailing ship they issued. If you compare the AOS Bounty book, it is very accurate. The big advantage is the scale - 1:87. If you should wish, at that scale the rigging could be made to work. Not being festooned with guns is a big bonus, in that much repetitive labour is avoided without detriment to the pleasure derived from the build. The possibility of converting the hull into a Brig or Snow is an exciting, simple and practical proposition.

Whatever you decide, I wish you much success. It's a fine hobby.

My Waffle machine is ready foe a re-charge!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/16/2020 at 9:46 PM, shipman said:

Meeee again. The Hackney books.....as I understand it, the three books, Victory, Cutty Sark and Mayflower titles were originally written deliberately to cover the three periods and give a representative guide for many ships that would loosely fall into those categories. My opinion (for what it's worth) is the average modeller, as intended, would have a sound guide; being a massive upgrade of information considering the very basic kit instructions. The Victory and Cutty Sark Longridge books take you that much further again.

I was never tempted by the Mayflower period ships, simply because so little firm evidence of their detailed configuration exists other than conjecture. The Wassa is another story but the available kit scales are a discouragement to what detail you may want to depict.

Of course much research has come to light (in the 50 years since I got interested) to correct much of this.

If you remember, I suggested the Airfix Bounty as a possible next project. That to me, seems a logical progression for your learning curve. I believe that was the last sailing ship they issued. If you compare the AOS Bounty book, it is very accurate. The big advantage is the scale - 1:87. If you should wish, at that scale the rigging could be made to work. Not being festooned with guns is a big bonus, in that much repetitive labour is avoided without detriment to the pleasure derived from the build. The possibility of converting the hull into a Brig or Snow is an exciting, simple and practical proposition.

Whatever you decide, I wish you much success. It's a fine hobby.

My Waffle machine is ready foe a re-charge!

 

Only thought about the Golden Hind as I got my hands on a copy of Hackney's Mayflower guide #2... Also the Airfix Mayflower kit isn't very popular or easy to find over here...

 

I definitely will consider the Bounty... You've sold me on the kit without a ship-load (pardon the pun) of guns to rig! Again I am having difficulty finding an AIRFIX Bounty kit here in Melb, but the Revell version seems to be readily available 🤔

 

Meanwhile, I finally got my hands on some decent scale brass anchor chain material ... 40 links per inch seems to do the job and pre-blackened which was a plus.

 

IMG_20201026_162253.thumb.jpg.6e670557f2be6db6b8ac685dbae8e8e4.jpg

 

Gave a little test run for the rudder pendants. Seems ok.

 

However then I realised later that'll I'd need double the length in order to finish off the anchor ties too.

 

Cheers

Posted

Wonderful build!

 

XXXDAn

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit), USS Constitution 1:96 (Revell) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

Posted

Thanks Daniel. Seems like this build is never ending...

 

I haven't forgotten the hammock netting in case you were wondering haha. Still tossing up some ideas involving putty, staples and tulle 😁

Posted

The Airfix Bounty is so much better than the Revell one (which can be well detailed with a lot of work: look up the late John Tilley's build on the net-see attachment). Plus, the larger scale is a bonus. Don't you have ebay where you are?

Lovely rudder pendants. The finest chain I have is 54 lpi. Already blackened; it's so fine you'd never guess it's chain at first glance. I got it off a retired chap in the Isle of man. I'm sad to say I think he's passed away, he was ill the last time we spoke, a couple of years ago. The email address is closed.

He also supplied some superb 1:98 brass belay pins and stanchions. I haven't discovered the original source of the chain; if anyone knows.....

85670015_edited-1_zpsa2f7ee5e.jpg.df848c3418f2a2009d594b6d5954622d.jpg

Posted

The Tilley Revell is as good as it gets. After seeing your excellent work on the Victory, I know you could get to that level with the Airfix kit, the larger scale would be a lot more convenient too. To my knowledge, no one has done justice to the Airfix Bounty. You can.

Posted
19 minutes ago, shipman said:

The Airfix Bounty is so much better than the Revell one (which can be well detailed with a lot of work: look up the late John Tilley's build on the net-see attachment). Plus, the larger scale is a bonus. Don't you have ebay where you are?

Lovely rudder pendants. The finest chain I have is 54 lpi. Already blackened; it's so fine you'd never guess it's chain at first glance. I got it off a retired chap in the Isle of man. I'm sad to say I think he's passed away, he was ill the last time we spoke, a couple of years ago. The email address is closed.

He also supplied some superb 1:98 brass belay pins and stanchions. I haven't discovered the original source of the chain; if anyone knows.....

85670015_edited-1_zpsa2f7ee5e.jpg.df848c3418f2a2009d594b6d5954622d.jpg

Wow, your model is really amazing. Especially like the tightly furled sails which I've heard is a more accurate depiction.

 

54lpi brass chain is ridiculously fine... I had some real difficulty hooking mine onto the eyebolts on the rudder. Not sure how I'll manage with the seized hook on the other end but we shall see.

 

 

The only model of the Bounty I could find on ebay currently was some french guy selling an empty box (had to do a double take to make sure) 😂 

 

I guess I'll just have to keep my eye out for this kit online...

Posted

Sorry I couldn't help but rave about this new purchase I made today...

 

IMG_20201030_122445.thumb.jpg.95670d71f7db742fda197c4420fa16d0.jpg

 

This is the GodHand PBM Acrylic Micro Power Pin Vise and I wish I'd bought this ages ago.

 

Having worn out a couple of chucks in my old Excel pin vise, I decided to invest in a more durable tool and this beauty certainly delivers! I think the chuck is made of hardened iron and there is plenty of leverage to drill tiny holes into plastic. Feels like drilling into butter. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Bower and Sheet anchors rigged finally. Sorry if the photo isn't clear enough...

 

Port 

IMG_20201112_224725.thumb.jpg.5d03ee75d7febcfea8af9468ac614ed2.jpg

 

Starboard

IMG_20201112_224702.thumb.jpg.f738f861e9feb619751ff0b5c4658a19.jpg

 

 

Continued on with the gunport rig... Not a huge difference making eye splices by threading to itself so I resorted to overhead knots 😓

 

IMG_20201111_225324.thumb.jpg.5e0c15e83006529adbb037b80c64ae58.jpg

 

 

IMG_20201112_224736.thumb.jpg.8f7ac2d897158460a8a12ef9f3e6434f.jpg

 

Getting there slowly. It is becoming difficult focusing and staying motivated to complete this model whilst shopping around for the next project. 

 

Cheers,

 

Ron

 

 

 

Posted
5 hours ago, shipman said:

Me again!

Keeping up the good work, I see.

Don't know if you intend keeping the boats in that position.....they would always be keel down on a ship like the Victory.

Thanks for noticing, but yes those extra boats haven't been painted yet and I intend to rig them keel down as you mentioned.

 

They are temporarily in place to hide my horrible lower deck cannons and deck paint work 🤫.

Posted (edited)
On 10/26/2020 at 8:15 AM, rkwz said:

I haven't forgotten the hammock netting in case you were wondering haha. Still tossing up some ideas involving putty, staples and tulle 😁

Dod you consider to show the hammocks in a covered mode? Just a block of balsa or foam in the right dimensions, and some paper handkerchiefs with some PVA applied can do a great job in your scale to represent the canvas cover.

 

Here is a tarred version 🙂

https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66307.html

 

XXXDAn

Trafalgar companion 14116_7038.jpg

Edited by dafi

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit), USS Constitution 1:96 (Revell) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, dafi said:

Dod you consider to show the hammocks in a covered mode? Just a block of balsa or foam in the right dimensions, and some paper handkerchiefs with some PVA applied can do a great job in your scale to represent the canvas cover.

 

Here is a tarred version 🙂

https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66307.html

 

XXXDAn

Trafalgar companion 14116_7038.jpg

 

Thanks Daniel, wish I'd thought of using balsa before getting my hands on some epoxy putty. Also the hammocks should be stored vertically like you've done on your Vicky?

 

 Anyway, time for some experimentation 👨‍🔬

 

Edited by rkwz

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...