Spray by Tomculb - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - ⅜” to 1’

[Tomculb]

My first attempt at a builders log (we all know that long before it became a fashionable term, that is what "blog" referred to).  I write this as I am a couple of months into the build.  I expect to have the blog catch up to real time over the next week or so).

* * *

Joshua Slocum left Boston in April 1895 aboard the 35 foot sloop Spray, finishing his circumnavigation of the world over three years later, in July of 1898.  He was the first to circle the globe alone. We know quite a lot about that trip since the definitive book on the subject, Sailing Alone Around the World, was written by none other than Joshua Slocum.  Less well known is that he left New England in 1909 for South America, sailing alone again on Spray, never to be heard from again. 

 

While working on Model Shipways’ Yacht America, I decided to look to Blue Jacket for my next build, and while exploring its many interesting offerings, I skipped over Spray several times as not being interesting enough a boat, not realizing its historical significance.  But about a year ago the name Slocum caught my eye, and Spray stepped into my on-deck circle. This was inspired in part by an imminent trip to Patagonia, including a short cruise on a small ship visiting the Straights of Magellan (where Slocum sailed), Beagle Channel, and Cape Horn.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First thing, of course, upon getting the kit in the mail, I inventoried the parts (all present and accounted for), quickly read through the instructions, and examined the two sheets of plans with some care. The plans are in my view quite clear and detailed--here’s a small excerpt.  The instructions are less detailed than I am used to (at least compared with Model Shipways). They include a separate booklet with general instructions for planked kits.  BlueJacket identifies this kit as one of its more difficult ones (rated 7 on a scale of 1 to 9, although BlueJacket doesn’t rate its kits with numbers like that).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eight months later, after finishing America, I opened the box again, took another close look at the plans, and began cutting out the laser cut bulkheads. The bulkheads are referred to in the kit as “frames”, numbered from 2 (oddly) to 12. That aside, they are sharply and precisely cut and easy to remove from the sheets they were cut from.

 

I also took a close look at the keel.  It was slightly warped, but not sufficiently so to cause me any concern. You have to look closely to see it in the photos below. I later noticed that the warp has a slight twist to it (so the stem and stern portions are not quite in the same vertical plane), but again, not enough to be of any real concern. Using the plans as my guide, I marked the bulkhead locations and the water line on the keel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While cutting out the bulkheads, I quickly glanced at the instructions and noticed an oddity--the plans have this warning written on one sheet, while the instructions imply the opposite.  Oh well, it certainly is easy to be critical; I shudder to think what my plans and instructions would look like were I to try to manufacture a kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The instructions say that the fit between the keel and the bulkheads should be snug, but they warn that some bulkhead slots may need to be sanded to open them up a bit and avoid splitting the bulkheads.  I had the exact opposite problem; most of the bulkheads were too loose to stand up unassisted. I cut a thin strip of construction paper and glued shims to the inside of the slots on most of the bulkheads--that took care of the issue. Here are the bulkheads dry fitted to the keel.

Next installment, my first mistake. . .

 

[Tomculb]

Well I'm learning . . . the alignment of photos and text when composing the blog, especially when putting photos side by side (or trying to) doesn't always conform to the final product.  And the last photo (the kit's box)-- I don't recall putting that in the blog at all! A mistake, but not the mistake I was referring to.  

 

But I'll mention that the box was flat enough that the plans had to be folded, but only lightly creased. I have found them to be easy to roll, and to lay out flat when used.

[Tomculb]

On starting the kit, I did not take much of a look at the instructions, and thus my first “mistake”. Unlike the two other POB kits I have built, the bulwarks stanchions are not part of the bulkheads, and they have to be cut from ⅛ by ⅛ strips and glued to the bulkheads.  Following the plans closely, my next step was to cut and glue the stanchions to the bulkheads. Then I read the instructions and learned that the stanchions are to be glued in place after the deck is installed and the hull is planked below the sheer line.  

Even if I had read the instructions, I’m not at all sure I would have followed them.  What they contemplate is cutting holes in the deck, lowering the glue-covered stanchions into the holes, and pressing them against the bulkheads and the inside of the planks.  This would make it very difficult to shape the lower part of the stanchions to conform with the curve of the hull and difficult to apply enough pressure to have the stanchions in any sense clamped in place while the glue dries. I guess I will find out soon enough whether I really did make a mistake.

 

At this point the bulkheads are still dry fitted.  To see whether the stanchions were more  or less aligned, I ran a small strip along them, looking for major deviations from a smooth curve.  

I found one offending stanchion, which I cut off the bulkhead and replaced.  Not bad out of 22 stanchions. 
 

Next step was the center stringer, in effect the spine of the hull.  First I dry fit a ¼” by ⅛” strip in place.

Rubber banding it in place felt a bit like setting a mouse trap.  For that and other reasons, I decided to deviate from the plans in three respects.  First, the slots in the bulkhead are cut for a ¼” wide stringer, but to help assure the stringer is straight (remember the slight warp in the keel), I widened the slots and added another ¼” strip on either side of the stringer in the vicinity of the mast (bulkheads 3 - 6).  Since I still hadn't glued the bulkheads in place, widening the slots was easy to do.

 

Second, this meant that the hole for the mast is ¼” wide.  The kit includes a 5/16” dowel for the mast, and the parts list and the plans refer to a mast of that diameter. I could have widened the hole with some sanding, but the mast as drawn on the plans is no more than ¼” in diameter, it looks just fine at that size, and I happen to have a straight ¼” dowel lying around just waiting to be incorporated into a project.

 

And third, I build two center stringers out of ¼” by 1/16” (rather than 1/8th) stock, glued the first one in place, then laminated the second one on top of it. I also built a ¼” square box on top of the keel to accept the butt end of the mast. Fortunately the mast in place fits snugly, it's vertical, and it has the slight amount of rake shown on the plans.

To help me assure that everything was properly aligned, I built myself a small T-square (visible in a couple of pictures above).  The bulkheads of course have to be perpendicular to the keel and also perpendicular to the waterline.  I also cut a small slit in the top of the keel piece at the stem and stern and ran a thread through them. Everything looked good.

 

As can be seen in several of the pictures, my building stand is home built -- a couple of fabric covered ½” by ⅜” strips screwed to a square platform.  For those times I want the water line to be truly horizontal, I wedged a small ¼” block between the strips to push the stern up against, then built a block that, when wedged in flush at the bow end of the strips raises the bow and waterline to horizontal.  I painted that red so as to avoid losing it in the mess my work bench often becomes. I also took a scrap 1/8" square strip and painted it red up to the height of the waterline so I can check the waterline mark on the keel at both the bow and the stern.

 

 

 

Edited January 8, 2020 by Tomculb
photos accidentally added at the end

[Mark-NS]

You are doing far better with your Spray then I am with mine.

[Tomculb]

I decided to install the subdeck next, thinking the deck adds significant structural strength to the whole assembly. The instructions would have you do the planking below the sheer line first, then add the subdeck. The bulkheads are only 1/16” thick and they are easily flexed, and the idea of bending planks onto a somewhat mushy feeling hull didn’t sound like a lot of fun. 

 

The subdeck is laser cut in two 1/16” thick halves. The deck is laser cut from two 1/32” thick halves, pre-printed with planks. The waterways are also laser cut from a 1/32" sheet, and they seem to fit the deck pretty well. I did a fair amount of dry fitting of both the subdeck and deck, to see how it would all fit together.   

 

The way the keel piece is cut, bulkhead 12 (the furthest aft) is not perpendicular to the waterline but instead leans aft (against the keel piece), or so I thought.  Actually, I'm still not clear as to what the plans contemplate, but that’s how I glued that bulkhead in place, with the result that its stanchions also lean aft (the transom pieces in the picture are only temporarily attached, with double sided tape). Leaning stanchions didn’t seem right, so I cut them off at the sheer line and glued on new stanchions, with wedges between them and the bulkhead to make them vertical. The following pictures jump ahead a bit chronologically, but show the revised, vertical stanchions.

 

Slots need to be cut into the subdeck to accept the stanchions. I carefully lined up the bow of the port subdeck where it is supposed to be on the stem, then went to work carefully cutting the slots, working my way aft from the bow. But when I got to the stern, the subdeck extended close to ½” inch beyond the transom end of the keel piece, something I didn’t notice until all the slots had been cut. Clearly the subdeck was positioned too far aft.

 

 

I cut new slots about a ¼” aft of each of the old ones to get the subdeck positioned farther forward. (Some part of “measure twice, cut once” seems to elude me; when sending email the equivalent is “type, send, attach”.)  The bow end of the subdeck is a little forward of where it should be, but I think I can either trim it back, or run the planks slightly forward of where they are supposed to be. At least the stern now lines up like it should.

 

[Tomculb]

An issue I was somewhat in denial about is that the port subdeck in place extends about ⅛” inch beyond the centerline.  The starboard deck in place also extends beyond the centerline, but not by as much. The logical thing to do would be to extend the stanchion slots further in (allowing the subdecks to extend out a bit further), but at least on the port side, they would have to be extended far enough in that the inside face of the stanchions would extend as far as the inside edge of the waterways (or “margin plank” as it’s referred to in the kit).  To avoid that and to move both subdeck pieces farther outward, I both extended the slots in a little and also thinned most of the stanchions to about 1/16”. I may add shims on the outside of the stanchions to bring them back to the intended width, but that’s a project for another day. The subdeck pieces still overlap slightly, and I feared (correctly) that I would have to trim one of them so that they butt against each other somewhere close to the centerline. 

 

 

I again dry fitted laser cut Transom 1 and Transom 2 to the stern with double sided tape, with the thought that I would glue them in place before gluing the subdecks on.  I quickly decided that was a bad idea, as the top of Transom 2 and the stern of the subdecks have to fit precisely and it would be much better to fit the transom to the deck rather than the other way around. I did however glue some ⅛” x ¼” strips to the sides of the keel at the transom to provide a wider surface to which to glue the transom pieces at the appropriate time.

With the help of a dremel tool and a rat tail file, I created a slot in the bottom of Transom 2 to accept the rudder post, doing so carefully enough that I didn’t split the remaining wood on either side of the slot.

 

 

Finally I got up the nerve to trim the port subdeck, cutting about a long 1/16” strip off its length, and with a little additional sanding, I got the two halves of the subdeck to lie flat without overlapping.  I will have to do something similar with the two halves of the deck, which will be a challenge if I want the pre-printed planks to run parallel and equal width, but that’s a problem to be addressed another day. I have already given some thought to actually planking the deck rather than using the precut pieces, but again . . . another day. 

 

I first glued the port subdeck to the center stringer and bulkheads. I used wood glue (Titebond being my glue of choice) on the stringer, clamping the deck in place, then used clamps to bend the outer edge of the subdeck down to the bulkheads, accommodating the curve in the bulkheads.  Once in place, I then used CA glue to glue the subdeck to the bulkheads, both thin and gap-filling CA, depending upon how well the subdeck fit to the bulkhead. Twelve hours later I removed all the clamps, and it all held together. Whew!

 

I then did the same with the starboard subdeck, but this time I couldn’t use clamps to clamp the subdeck to the center stringer, so I instead used scrap wood and rubber bands. In the picture below you may be able to see the strip of wax paper I ran along the centerline: if any glue oozed out of the space between the two subdeck halves, I didn’t want to glue the clamping sticks to the subdeck.  This subdeck too held together after the glue dried!

 

 

[rshousha]

One of my favorite modelling subjects and a great adventure story from our youth. 

[Tomculb]

Before gluing Transom 1 and Transom 2 in place, I glued 1/8th by 1/8th strips to the outside edges of Transom 1, so that the hull planks would have something substantial to be glued to. I did not do that to Transom 2, since it will be beveled pretty extremely to accommodate the planks, and I think there will be plenty of wood to glue them to.

The transoms were then glued in place.

Gluing the transoms on presented another minor challenge. The deck of course slopes down to the bulwarks, while the upper edge of Transom 1 (ie at deck level) runs straight across. I gave a moment’s thought to rounding the top of Transom 1 to match the deck, but I realized that wouldn’t be necessary.  The first plank of what I will call Transom 3 (the yet-to-be-built stern bulwark) will hide the gap quite nicely.

 

That brings me up to real time, and I can move back to building mode from blogging mode.  The bulkheads and bulwark stanchions need to be beveled and the structure needs to be otherwise prepared for planking. And, I need to do a little experimenting with plank bending -- soaking, steaming, adding ammonia (or not), etc.  Some of the plank bending, especially in the bow, will be pretty radical, involving twisting as well as bending both horizontally and vertically. It should be a fun learning experience.

 

[Moab]

I just started building this kit. The plans appear to be excellent however the instruction booklet leaves a bit to be desired when compared to instructions from other manufactures kits. I also emailed them to clarify some details but never received a reply.

 

You're way ahead of me so I look forward to your posts...Moab

[BobG]

This is a wonderful build log of a very interesting model. I'll be following your progress. 

 

 I just read your member introduction post. We have things in common. I live in Sacramento and am an avid road cyclist and my wife and I have spent 17 weeks traveling in South America (Peru, Argentina and Brazil) including 3 weeks in Patagonia and Ushuaia. The hiking was incredible when the wind wasn't blowing 70 mph! Good luck on your build.

 

Bob

[Moab]

I think by glueing the stanchions when did was the best way to do it. It would have saved me some time and aggrevation. Your build is looking excellent. The photos are very helpful.... I wish I had seen them before I started. Thank you for the build...Moab

[Tomculb]

Thanks for the kind words Bob.  I just sent you a private message about biking, hiking and Patagonia.

 

Moab, are you going to do a blog about your Spray build?  I'd love to see how you're doing.

[Tomculb]

I have made a little progress on pre-planking matters.

 

I decided that won’t try to use a single strip of wood to do an entire plank, except maybe at the keel where they aren’t quite so long.  Instead I will alternate butting two strips together at bulkheads 6 and 8. I added some ⅛ by ⅛ pieces along the entirety of those bulkheads to add a little more surface area to which to glue the planks.  The added wood hasn’t been trimmed closely yet, nor has it been beveled.  

 

One thing I did not do (and the instructions said nothing about doing) is to carve a rabbit in the keel piece where that planking meets that piece.  Now I’m thinking I wish I had done so at the bow, to give the planks something to push against when they bend around from the forward-most bulkhead and meet the stem.  So instead I carved a piece from a 1/4 x 1/16 strip that I can clamp to the stem. Hopefully that will be helpful when bending planks after they have been soaked/steamed.  I don’t think I want to use it at the gluing stage for fear that some glue will seep out and glue that carved strip to the stem.  I mentioned earlier that the subdeck extends a little bit forward of where it should; that can be seen in the picture below.

 

The blunt stem offends my sense of how a sailing vessel should slice through the water. The ¼” piece in the model translates to something like 8” in the real boat.  Somehow pushing an 8” plank through the water broadside just doesn’t cut it. So I tapered the stem to something like ⅛” at the bowsprit (actually I think I got bored and quit a little before I got it quite that thin).  I had previously rounded the sharp corners of the keel, and as part of the tapering I transitioned from rounded corners to a rounded leading edge, beginning about where the keel starts to rise to the stem. As I look at the pictures I don’t think they really do it justice, but you get the idea.

 

Finally, most recently I built a soaking device, using a 1” by 12” pvc pipe, and borrowing a few ideas I have seen posted on these forums. The small clamp (X-acto brand) attached to the strip of wood is heavy enough to keep a 10” strip from floating in the tube.

Now (or at least a few days from now) onto beveling the stanchions and bulkheads. One thing I am wondering about is whether the inner surfaces of the stanchions in the bow (which will be visible above deck) should be parallel to the bulwark planking rather than parallel to the center line as they are now. I’m thinking that they should be.  I suspect I will be adding shims as much as I am carving/sanding wood away.

[Moab]

I'D BE TOO EMBARASSED TO DO A BLOG ON MY BUILD....BUT, I AM ENJOYING IT...MOAB

[Moab]

I'll post a pix soon...Moab

[Tomculb]

Some delightful travel and a temporary flareup of lower back issues have delayed progress a bit, but things have moved along enough now to justify another posting.

 

First thing was some checking for symmetry, especially at the bow. Recall that the two subdeck pieces needed some trimming, one especially, and the two do not quite meet on the center line.

 

Then came quite a bit of work beveling and fairing the stanchions and bulkheads.  Especially forward the stanchions needed some shims, in addition to the usual sanding. I decided to do only what was needed for the first strake or two on the starboard side, see how well the planks bent to the shape of the hull, and then work on faring further down as strakes went in place.  Alternating between port and starboard sides, of course.

The bend between the forward most bulkhead and the stem is pretty dramatic, so I added something for the plank to bend around. 

After trimming the first plank where it meets the stem, I soaked it for about 15 minutes in the tube shown in my prior post, in water I had brought almost to a boil.  I then clamped the wood in place.  It bent to shape pretty easily. After letting it dry for an hour or so, I unclamped it, and had a nicely pre-bent piece of wood ready to glue in place.  

However, at the bow where the bend is pretty radical, rather than nicely curve around the extra piece I added, it looked more like a fold. For some reason I didn't take a picture of it.  But I remembered having bought a plank bender some decades ago, and I managed to find it.  I re-soaked the forward couple of inches of the plank, bent the fold around what seemed like the appropriate diameter drum, and ended up with a pretty nice looking plank, which I clamped and glued in place.

 

A few hours later I removed the clamps and voila . . .  half a sheer strake!

Only problem though was that with a collection of clamps forward, I didn't notice that I didn't quite get the plank glued to the stem, leaving a small gap. A little filler, and maybe even a thin strip of wood, should take care of that problem.

Now on to the stern half of the sheer strake. The bulkheads needed some beveling and sanding, but nothing like what was needed forward. Here I was able to clamp a plank in place pretty easily without soaking the wood, so I skipped that step.  Sand, bevel, glue, clamp, wait, and a few hours later . . . one complete sheer strake. 

 

Got a lot on my plate the next several weeks, so it will likely be a month or more before I've made enough additional progress to justify another posting. And that's not likely to be anything more than pictures of a couple more strakes.  Progress is slow, but I'm in no hurry, and most important, I'm really enjoying the journey.

 

 

 

 

 

[dsmith65]

I just started building this same kit.  I've got the bulkheads in and was just about to start planking. I think I'm going to add the stanchions and sub deck now before I plank.  I was trying to figure out how to do that down the road.

[BobG]

On 3/1/2020 at 7:30 AM, Tomculb said:

However, at the bow where the bend is pretty radical, rather than nicely curve around the extra piece I added, it looked more like a fold. For some reason I didn't take a picture of it.  But I remembered having bought a plank bender some decades ago, and I managed to find it.  I re-soaked the forward couple of inches of the plank, bent the fold around what seemed like the appropriate diameter drum, and ended up with a pretty nice looking plank, which I clamped and glued in place.

That's an interesting plank bender, Tom. I was getting "folds" like that at times near the bow on my Medway Longboat. I used an Amati electric plank bender to help ease the creases. I eventually worked out pretty good but it wasn't easy because the plank not only needed to bend but it needed to twist also with a slight upward curve as well.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing your future progress.

Edited March 17, 2020 by BobG

[Tomculb]

 

My how the world has changed since I last posted, on March 1.  Confined to our home you’d think I’d get more done than usual on my build, but working from home part time seems to take as much time as working near full time in the office. And since that’s all I really have to complain about, I’m feeling very fortunate.

 

Installing the sheer strakes went quite well, but the next two were a different story, in the bow anyway.  I ended up tearing out the front half of strakes two and three after they were glued in place, and I have been taking a different approach that (so far) is working much better.  No pictures yet (who likes to show off their mistakes?), but if things go well my next post will be all about planking, with photos.

 

Meanwhile, planking has a lot of downtime while planks soak, then dry in place, then while the glue dries. So I’ve been jumping ahead to other build projects. First, the bowsprit. The kit supplies a ⅜ by ½ piece to shape the bowsprit from, but when lining that up on the plans, I noticed that only a small portion extends beyond ⅜ by ⅜. 

Not liking to sand and carve any more than I have to, and having an extra ⅜ by ⅜ strip in my lumber yard of sufficient length, I glued a 3½ inch long ⅛ by ⅜ strip onto the bottom of that piece of wood, making the notch shown in the plans. I used rubber cement to glue a strip of sandpaper onto a 1 by 2 foot long piece of wood, which made a great sanding block for tapering the bowsprit. Here it is after a little sanding of the bottom of the bowsprit. 

Cutting to the appropriate length what was to become the bowsprit committed me to an important decision that I found pretty easy to make.  Slocum embarked on his journey with Spray rigged as a sloop. But in South America, he rerigged it as a yawl, shortening the bowsprit and the boom, and adding a mizzen. Since most of his voyage Spray was rigged as a yawl, and since it’s almost always depicted as such in the photos and drawings I have seen, I decided to build it as a yawl.  The plans though give you the dimensions you need to rig it as a sloop if that is preferred.

 

 

As I sanded a bit aft of the notch, I measured the height of what will eventually be the forward end of the bowsprit, as measured from an extension of the keel (rather than the waterline). I got it within a few millimeters, which should certainly be good enough for now. Once the deck is installed I can make final adjustments.

 

I sanded rather than carved the forward taper (which doesn’t show up very well in this picture; don't know why the knives are there), where the bowsprit is octagonal in cross section.  I guess I just don’t trust myself with a knife-- too easy to overdo it. I still need to taper it a bit more, but it’s close to finished forward of the notch.

Next project was the deckhouses.  I attached the two laser-cut end pieces to each other with scrap strips of various sizes, in order to build a rigid frame around which to bend the roof/walls. Starting with the smaller, forward cabin, I first glued the two roof pieces to each other, then soaked them in hot water for about half an hour.  I then carefully, slowly, bent the roof around the frame, until CRACK! The roof pieces split apart where they had been glued.  I nevertheless continued with bending the two pieces to the appropriate shape, let them dry, glued them in place, and ended up with about a ⅛ inch gap, easy enough to fill some scraps strips of wood.

The aft cabin is narrower aft than forward, which made the bending of the soaked roof a little tricky.  This time the roof held together, but apparently I didn’t use sufficient glue when assembling the frame, and a couple of the stringers broke loose as I was bending the roof. Eventually I got it all put together, used a variety of clamps to hold it while gluing, and was happy with the final product. 

 

Finally, I put together the stovepipe, using a short dowel and heavy paper for the cap.  For the latter, I tried cutting a circle out of stock from a manila folder, but that was too thick -- it tended to fold rather than bend in a nice half circle. Construction paper worked just fine. I used the corners of a small clamp to hold it bent around the dowel, then painted it, and as I hoped the paint made it retain its shape.  It was then easy to glue it to the dowel with a couple of tiny dabs of glue.

Now back to planking the hull.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 22, 2020 by Tomculb
deleted unwanted photo

[Tomculb]

Another six weeks since my last post, and some real progress made on the hull.  Wood filler saved the day. Here is where I was a couple of weeks ago, raw planking on one side, and filled and sanded on the other. Lemons to lemonade?  

Now backtracking some more. I made the decision that the 3/32” thick strips supplied with the kit would be too thick to bend very well. Supplemented with just a minimal purchase, I had enough 1/16” thick strips in my lumberyard to do the hull, and I had strips that were 3/16” wide, in addition to the 1/8” and 1/4” supplied with the kit. For the most part I liked the way the 1/16” strips bent, and I am not convinced I made a mistake deviating from the kit in this way.  But then again, who am I to question the wisdom of the master model buildings and BlueJacket.

 

Here’s the biggest problem I had.  In the bow, where the hull curves in toward the centerline, I found that I couldn’t get the bottom of the planks to lie flat against the bulkheads; rather they flared out (relative to the bulkheads).  The result might have been fine with lapstrake planking-- in places, the top edge of the next plank fit nicely under the bottom edge of the plank above it, but that’s not how this hull is supposed to go together.  Here’s a picture that shows the problem most clearly at the bow, and a couple more which show bad portions of the hull looked mid-planking.

Hard to sum up what made it all come out OK eventually, but certainly the following helped: more patience than I thought I had, a willingness to tear out planks that just weren’t going to work and replacing them with narrowing ones, and rummaging around this website for helpful articles and in particular finding Chuck Passaro’s tutorials.  I found links to videos on building the Winchelsea here https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22975-chuck-passaros-planking-videos-where-are-they/

and the first three chapters of his Winchelsea monograph here

https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/hms-winchelsea-1764.php

I recommend them highly. In addition to that, it probably would have helped if I had cut a rabbit (rabbet?) or bearding line at the stem and maybe along the keel, and if I had carved a filler block to put between the forward bulkhead and the stem would also have been helpful.

 

To try to restate Chuck’s work here would not do it justice. Instead, I’ll only highlight one thing--how he bends planks onto the hull.  It is far quicker, and a bit easier, than what I was doing.

 

I had been soaking each wood strip in water I had brought to a boil for 20--30 minutes, then bending and clamping it onto the hull, then letting it dry for a few hours.  Once thoroughly dry the plank could be removed from the hull, it would maintain its bent shape, and I would glue it in place with wood glue (being my glue of choice for almost everything; particularly Titebond).  I would apply it to the bulkheads and along the edge where it would adjoin the plank already in place.

 

In his videos, Chuck takes a dry strip of wood, wets it with his finger dipped in water, then bends it in place with a travel iron.  Do take a look at the video; don’t rely on my description.  I have an iron I used decades ago to apply monocoat to RC gliders, and it worked very well.

Using CA instead of wood glue, he puts a drop or so on each bulkhead but none along the adjoining edge.  I found that the wood did not maintain its shape when I pulled it off the hull to apply the glue, but it was still pliable enough to bend it back into shape after the glue was applied.  Some clamping came in handy, and since it’s CA, if I really needed to I could hold it in place with my fingers for several seconds while the glue took effect (being careful of course that I didn’t glue my fingers to the hull!).  

 

At some point, tired of struggling with the sharp bending in the bow, I decided to install the garboard strake.  Somewhere I had read that it is typically the most difficult one to install, but actually it was quite easy.  It does require some significant twisting of the plank, but that is about it. To install the garboard strake though, I needed to sand something of an inset at the back of the keel; otherwise with the added width of the planks the keel would simply be too wide.

Another thing I did was to not to try to make every successive plank conform to the bend in the shear plank.  Rather with the third or fourth plank, I left it largely unbent in the vertical plane, which left a sizable gap in the bow (and a smaller one in the stern) which I filled with stealer planks tapered to a sharp point.  I learned that such sharp points are not recommended, and they certainly wouldn’t look very good on a model with an unpainted hull, but they worked for me.

Another thing I learned on this site was how to make a plank clamp out of binder clips.  For my previous POB builds I took mini clips and used CA to glue a small piece of wood inside it as seen in one of the pictures above, but they sometimes broke off and just didn’t work very well.  Far better to cannibalize the handles from another clip and use them instead of the wood strip.  I found the handle from a “small” size binder clip fit very well in a “mini” size clip.

For wood filler I have mainly used Bondo over the years (one part variety; not two part).  It sands very easily and does a great job filling smaller cracks and holes.  But its pungent fumes are irritating at best and probably very unhealthy, and when I started using it on this hull the weather wasn’t conducive to opening the windows.  So I switched to Elmer’s Carpenter’s WoodFiller, which worked pretty well, especially filling large voids.

 

So here it is, pretty much ready for a first coat of primer.  A discerning eye examining the real thing will find a dip or bulge or two that don’t belong there, but on the whole I’m pretty happy with it.  I’m ready to paint a coat or two of primer and move on to other challenges.

 

 

[Tomculb]

Every so often I end up with an extra photo or few which are at the end of the post, but I didn't put them there.  Still haven't figured out why. Here the third of three at the end doesn't belong there.

[Tomculb]

As mentioned in my post from several weeks ago, waiting for things to dry on the hull gave me an opportunity to work on other parts of the build.  Once the deck cabins were built . . .

 

. . .I moved on to trim for the doors and frames for the doors and window.  I saw in a Chuck Passaro practicum I downloaded some time ago from the Model Shipways website (Sultana? Phantom?) the suggestion of using card stock rather than strips of veneer to add detail to such things as doors.  I cut up an old manilla folder, finding it much easier to cut out the center section first, then cut the perimeter second.   I glued the same to some scrap 1/16” sheet, and the doors were ready to paint (dry fitted but not glued in the third photo below).

This brought up the question of color. The instructions say the boat was probably all white, but that “buff, tan and light grey” were commonly used on similar boats in addition to white.  I like to use color to highlight detail, sometimes even when it may not be completely historically accurate, and this seemed like a good place to add some color.  Finding I had a handful of Tamiya paints lying around to choose from, I eventually chose “buff”.  I painted, then glued, 1/16th square strips around the hatch opening and window, similarly painted the doors, and used the same strips to make tracks for the sliding hatches.  For more detail (before I glued the doors to the structures), I ran a sharp Exacto knife down the center of the manila folder trim, to simulate a separation between two doors, and took the smallest nails I could find and turned the nail heads into door handles. And finally I painted the port hole inserts in the aft cabin the same dark grey I used for the stack on the forward cabin. 

 

The other thing I worked on was the dinghy, a quick fun little project. After punching out the laser cut pieces, I first glued the transom and the frame to the bottom, adding some 1/8” square strips for rigidity and to help assure the desired 90 degree angles. The bottom was about 1/16” short, so I added a strip at the stern (hard to see this photo, but it’s clear in the one further below, finished but unpainted).  

I then soaked the sides in hot water for about half an hour, then easily bent them around the bottom and the frame.  Holding everything in place while it dried proved to be a challenge, but by constructing a small V-shaped mold I was able to hold everything together at the bow.  

 

 

The instructions say that Slocum once referred to his dinghy as “green”, so they suggest painting it “bright green” if white isn’t used.  I had some very dark green paint hanging around, and I used that instead.  Unfortunately I didn’t realize that the paint was gloss instead of flat, nor did I realize before using it that it’s really dark. 

I had several shades of brown and tan paint around, one of which was flat Earth from Tamiya.  Once I saw that, the irony was just too great, and I knew I had to paint something on Joshua Slocum’s boat Flat Earth.  That ‘something’ ended up being the dinghy.  Fortunately it covered the dark green very well.

I think I will add a rub rail along the side of the hull, but I’m not there yet.

 

[dsmith65]

Looks real good.

 

[Tomculb]

Another long break between posts.

 

A lot of wood filler and sanding.

 

 

 

 

Then came the first coat of primer, which of course disclosed numerous flaws, needing more filler and sanding. After that, much of the first coat of paint was gone.  I used Tamiya’s primer, which I discovered is not water based.  In its marketing it is said to be gap filling, which I guess is somewhat true.  Cleaning the brush it felt somewhat granular, and after the brush dried it was full of dust. Kind of odd in my book.  Fortunately it’s an old brush. In any event, after a second coat of paint it’s really beginning to look like a finished hull.

 

 

At some point I noticed that the garboard plank on one side wasn’t quite straight (it being made of two pieces of wood that I didn’t line up as well as I should have).  I clamped a scrap piece of wood to the keel where the dip was, filled it with wood filler, sanded and sanded, and it came out looking better, but there's still a small dip.

 

 

 

 

 

One challenge I had (backtracking a bit) was the where the planks meet the lower transom.  Hard to see in the pictures, but the lower transom slopes in so much that the angle between it and the planks has got to be at least 160 degrees or more; in other words they almost butt end to edge.  But I simply overlapped the planks over the lower edge of the transom, then sanded a lot. I had to do so much sanding that the planks became too thin, and a small hole or two developed.  I added a couple of scrap pieces of wood, a lot of wood filler, and did a lot more sanding, and after painting it looked better than I expected.  It’s far from perfect, though, and I might not be satisfied with the result but for the fact that when the finished boat is displayed, that underside will be almost impossible to see.

 

 

 

 

 

Hopefully another post coming shortly.

[Tomculb]

Next project was the deck.  I decided I didn’t like the look of the ready made deck that came with the kit, and I instead bought some ⅛ x 1/32 strips, which I cut to 3” lengths. But before gluing any planks to the subdeck, I needed a straight center line and center plank to be sure everything would go in place in straight lines.  When I installed the halves of the subdeck, I had to trim one of them, with the result that the line where the two halves join is not the centerline of the boat.  I then glued a single center plank in place, a 3/16 x 1/32 piece (a little wider than the other planks to help assure that it is straight).  Of course a single plank running the length of the boat is not very realistic, but it won’t be noticeable once the deck furniture is installed.

 

 

 

 

I ran a pencil along one side and one end of each strip to help visually set the planks off from each other (simulating a little calking I guess). Even without the deck furniture, the non-conforming center plank pretty much disappears.

 

 

 

 

 

I then stained the deck with MiniWax Golden Oak.  Once thoroughly dried it’s not nearly as dark as it appears in the pictures.  The blue you can see on the upper hull is painters tape; I was a bit paranoid about stain dripping down the sides of the hull.

 

 

 

Next project was to finish shaping the bowsprit, add the “mooring bits or knightsheads” (as they are referred to in the plans), and paint.  To securely install the bowsprit in place, I put pins through the bowsprit between the mooring bits and forward of the deck on the stem piece.  Finally I painted the small eyebands dark grey, and installed one of them on the end of the bowsprit.

 

 

 

 

So as I write this I am a couple of weeks into working on the margin planks (which will be on top of the deck planks but very thin), and beveling and shimming the stanchions to accept the bulwarks.  Will post again when the bulwarks are at least partially installed.

 

 

[mandolinut]

Thanks so much for posting your building log. I am just beginning the same model I recently purchased that was purchased by somebody else 25 years ago. The instructions are not bad but do not go into any detail. Seeing your steps creates a lot of clarity. 

[Tomculb]

In my prior post I mentioned creating margin planks (or waterways) which would lie on top of the deck planking, not adjoining it.  Basically I was too lazy to try to make the edge of the deck planking precisely meet the edge of the margin plank. In retrospect that may not have been a great decision, but it is what it is.  The kit-supplied laser cut pieces would be too thick and too obviously lying on top of the deck. The instructions say they are to be painted along with the inside of the bulwarks (I’m wondering a bit why), and I felt they had to be thick enough to absorb the paint without wrinkling. After looking at a few alternatives, I settled on some construction paper (that happened to be black). I cut them out with an X-acto knife, then used some small sharp scissors (usually used for cutting rigging line) to cut the insets for the stanchions. Then they were painted the same Buff color I used on the cabin trim.  They will be installed later.

 

 

Next was bevelling the stanchions to accept the bulwarks planking, which involved a bit more work than I anticipated.  A lot of wood was removed in some places, shims added in others, etc. No pictures of this task. 

I also realized that if the bulwarks are to be a consistent ½ inch above the shear line as shown on the plans, then most of the stanchions were a little short, and they certainly weren’t consistent in height.  That I would deal with another day.

Nothing very exciting about planking the bulwarks.  As I started to do midway through planking the rest of the hull, I used Chuck Passaro’s recommended method of wetting but not soaking the planks, then using an iron to bend the wood around the stanchions. The iron I’ve been using is left over from applying Monocoat to R/C gliders I built another lifetime ago.

 

At the bow there isn’t anything to bend the planks around, so I built a block to serve that purpose. Holding everything in place sometimes required some creative clamping.

 

I made the transom bulwarks by first gluing the first plank onto the hull and deck, then adding the stanchions at each corner, then adding the remaining planks.

 

Along the way I started building the steering apparatus, none of which has been glued together or painted yet. Also below, transom planking further along than above.

 

 

What followed of course was a great deal of wood filler and sanding. Here are a few "before" photos; "after" photos are further below.

 

Next came the rubrails. The plans show them to be 1/16th of an inch from top to bottom, and the inventory shows 1/16 x 3/32 strips to build them with. I took a couple of those strips, rounded the sharp corners, and glued the 1/16th edge to the hull. I also used a single strip for each one, wanting to avoid any sharp bends where two strips join. The rubrails run part way out onto the sides of the bowsprit, and I made those parts with two short 1/16 x 3/32 strips glued side by side.  All in all the process went pretty well.

 

 

At this point I made some decisions about the caprails.  The deck plan shows them to be 1/4 inch wide, which looks about right.  But a cross section of the hull shows them to be quite a bit wider -- 3/32 strip outside the bulwark, 3/32 width of the bulwark plank, 1/8 stanchion, and another 3/32 strip inside the stanchions, for a total of 13/32 (or easier for my mind to grasp, a gnats eye wider than 3/8).  That just seems too wide. As mentioned earlier, I used 1/16 for planking, and the part of the rubrail outside the planking could also be 1/16.  Most of the stanchions were thinner (after beveling) than the 1/8 square they started with, and a 3/32 stanchion seems like a good width. And the inner plank might even be 1/32 (left over from planking the deck). Moving outward in, that’s 2/32 + 2/32 + 3/32 + 1/32, for a total of 8/32, or 1/4 as shown on the deck plan. I think that will look better.

 

Having made  that decision, I added shims to some stanchions, shaved some stanchions, and added tiny caps to most so that they are all a consistent thickness and height.  The photos below were taken when I was close to finished with that task.

 

As I write this I'm ready to start installing the cap rails. But first I think I will glue the waterways in place, then paint the inside of the bulwarks.

 

 

 

[Tomculb]

I'm learning that if I drag a photo to the "Drag files here to attached" area below, and then don't use it in my post, it gets added at the end anyway.  Or at least that's what I think happens and explains the random photo at the end.

[Aubrey]

Thanks for sharing your struggles and solutions. Definitely will help as I go forward with my Spray

[Josh Williamson]

Thanks for the detailed build log of this kit.  It has been an invaluable resource in my own build of the same model.