WayneR Posted July 5, 2020 #1 Posted July 5, 2020 Started the model today. Think it’s going to be a learning curve to get it right or just looking ok, never done a card model before hope to getting experience to start a big one later on. Any tips or help would be helpful. GrandpaPhil, Nirvana, catopower and 1 other 4
amateur Posted July 5, 2020 #2 Posted July 5, 2020 JSC has multiple ways of building the hull. This one I didn't know. Warning: tolerances are quite low, especially when starting the hull. Make sure you work as precise as possible. Question: do you have a scanner/printer? If so, it may be worthwhile to scan the kit, and use the scan to provide spare parts, or test-parts for the difficult parts. Jan Canute 1
WayneR Posted July 5, 2020 Author #3 Posted July 5, 2020 I have a scanner printer not used it in a while but will try using it for spares. Canute 1
WayneR Posted July 8, 2020 Author #4 Posted July 8, 2020 Started on the bow section with the hidden gun mounts below, got some gun barrels coming and some laser cut parts. finding it easier to do as I get into it but got some really fiddly parts to do yet. catopower, Nirvana, GrandpaPhil and 1 other 4
amateur Posted July 8, 2020 #5 Posted July 8, 2020 question just for reference: is it a inch-grid onyour cuttin gmat, or a centimeter-grid? (or the same question stated differently: how long is the model?) Jan Canute 1
WayneR Posted July 8, 2020 Author #6 Posted July 8, 2020 The grids are in cm. Nirvana, GrandpaPhil, ccoyle and 2 others 5
Louie da fly Posted July 10, 2020 #7 Posted July 10, 2020 Off to a good start, Wayne. I'll pull up a seat if I may. Canute 1 It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht
WayneR Posted July 10, 2020 Author #8 Posted July 10, 2020 Bit more done today, getting the bends in the card is a bit fiddly my be not dead on the line some of the time, see how it goes on. ccoyle, GrandpaPhil, lmagna and 3 others 6
amateur Posted July 13, 2020 #9 Posted July 13, 2020 Question: are you scribing the folding lines with a blunt needle or something? Doing that helps getting a crisp fold, and at the place you want it to be. the real pro's are even fussing about on which side you need to do your scribing, but actually, I never see the difference in my results. (perhaps my fault, or eyesight) Jan mtaylor and Canute 2
ccoyle Posted July 13, 2020 #10 Posted July 13, 2020 Which side you scribe fold lines on definitely makes a difference. Fold lines should be scored on the side from which the fold bends away from; on most parts, this means that scoring will be done on the printed side. Canute 1 Chris Coyle Greer, South Carolina When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix
WayneR Posted July 13, 2020 Author #11 Posted July 13, 2020 I was scribing the Lon with a run out biro pen , used the back of knife but that seemed to score it to much. Canute 1
WayneR Posted July 13, 2020 Author #12 Posted July 13, 2020 Do you also use some sort of clip or peg to hold two pieces together while drying. Canute 1
catopower Posted July 13, 2020 #13 Posted July 13, 2020 On 7/8/2020 at 1:16 AM, WayneR said: The grids are in cm. It actually says "INCH" in the front left corner. That's a 1/2" grid. 🙂 Canute 1 Clare Hess He's a -> "HE" Current Builds HMS Wolf, 1754 - Shipyard Laser Cut Kit Kitamaebune - Japanese Coastal Trade Ship, 18th/19th Centuries - Woody Joe Kit Atakebune - Japanese Sengoku Period Warship - Woody Joe Kit
amateur Posted July 14, 2020 #15 Posted July 14, 2020 Hi Chris, doing the guns of my De Ruyter, I actually deviated from the rule you gave: the paint had a very high tendency to break at the scoring. Someone suggested to di the scoring on the other side. It made a difference wrt the cracking (although: small). The quality of the print is the weak point of JSC: not completely waterproof, and rather easily cracking at bends.... (based on two models: axeldijk and De Ruyter) Jan Canute and ccoyle 2
WayneR Posted July 25, 2020 Author #16 Posted July 25, 2020 Update on my progress so far. This is my first card model and it’s a learning curve for me,some things on the ship are not quite right but will improve next time. ccoyle, Nirvana, catopower and 3 others 6
catopower Posted August 9, 2020 #17 Posted August 9, 2020 Well, I'm liking it so far! Canute 1 Clare Hess He's a -> "HE" Current Builds HMS Wolf, 1754 - Shipyard Laser Cut Kit Kitamaebune - Japanese Coastal Trade Ship, 18th/19th Centuries - Woody Joe Kit Atakebune - Japanese Sengoku Period Warship - Woody Joe Kit
Nirvana Posted August 25, 2020 #18 Posted August 25, 2020 Wayne, Shouldn't you have cut out the area in between R22 and L22 where you have tabs to be folded? This before folding the hull. To me it looks like you will have an issue, unless JSC's manual says something else. Canute 1 Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry
WayneR Posted August 25, 2020 Author #19 Posted August 25, 2020 Not sure what you mean if it’s where you see the scissors in pic it’s optional. Nirvana and Canute 2
WayneR Posted August 25, 2020 Author #20 Posted August 25, 2020 The work so far I’m just waiting on some bits from JSC , then got to sort out the mast and derricks. Also gun ports and rear guns to put on. Louie da fly, Canute, Nirvana and 1 other 4
Nirvana Posted August 26, 2020 #21 Posted August 26, 2020 These 1:400 scale cardstock ships are tricky. Btw, what type of glue are you using? Canute 1 Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry
Louie da fly Posted August 26, 2020 #22 Posted August 26, 2020 It's looking good, Wayne. I don't think I'd have the courage to work with card. To me, wood is much more forgiving . Canute 1 It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht
WayneR Posted August 26, 2020 Author #23 Posted August 26, 2020 - A blue and I’m trying a glue called Beacon 3 in 1 Canute 1
clearway Posted August 27, 2020 #25 Posted August 27, 2020 cool , i read a book about the german surface raiders of ww2 published by penguin years (decades) ago, they certainly had intriguing and colourful voyages. Keith Canute 1
WayneR Posted August 27, 2020 Author #26 Posted August 27, 2020 Always been interested in there history. Canute 1
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