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JSC has multiple ways of building the hull. This one I didn't know.

Warning: tolerances are quite low, especially when starting the hull. Make sure you work as precise as possible.

Question: do you have a scanner/printer? If so, it may be worthwhile to scan the kit, and use the scan to provide spare parts, or test-parts for the difficult parts.

 

Jan

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Question: are you scribing the folding lines with a blunt needle or something? 

Doing that helps getting a crisp fold, and at the place you want it to be.

the real pro's are even fussing about on which side you need to do your scribing, but actually, I never see the difference in my results.

(perhaps my fault, or eyesight)

 

Jan

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Which side you scribe fold lines on definitely makes a difference. Fold lines should be scored on the side from which the fold bends away from; on most parts, this means that scoring will be done on the printed side.

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Hi Chris,

 

doing the guns of my De Ruyter, I actually deviated from the rule you gave: the paint had a very high tendency to break at the scoring.

Someone suggested to di the scoring on the other side. It made a difference wrt the cracking (although: small). The quality of the print is the weak point of JSC: not completely waterproof, and rather easily cracking at bends.... (based on two models: axeldijk and De Ruyter)

 

Jan

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Wayne, 

Shouldn't you have cut out the area in between R22 and L22 where you have tabs to be folded?
This before folding the hull. To me it looks like you will have an issue, unless JSC's manual says something else.
 

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