Fair American by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

[KenW]

Thanks Alistair and Russ for your advise.

I am using holly planks so I don't think the wood is the problem.  I am using a 4D pencil on both edges; but I think my problem is with my application of the glue.  I get small areas or spots of glue forced up between the planks.  I try to wipe it off using a damp paper towel but the glue, along with some pencil residue, gets on my fingers and the damp towel.  I am thinking I have to use even less glue and not use a damp paper towel or cloth to clean up the decks.  Perhaps I can scrape off any residue with the point of a knife before sanding or scraping.

Thanks again for your help.

[aliluke]

Hi Ken

Definitely let the glue dry before removing by scraping. Your damp cloth is probably working the glue/graphite mix into the plank. I used holly on my Fly deck and no matter how messy it looked I didn't touch any glue residue until it was completely dry. I used white glue and it is very easy to scrape off when it is dry.

 

I'd also suggest taking off the stained planks as they will annoy you forever.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[russ]

I have never edge glued deck planks. I always glue them to the deck beams or the false deck as the case may be. That is why I have never had to wipe or scrape glue off the deck after installation. I have scraped the deck to get a smoother surface after they were installed, but never to get glue off.

 

Russ

[rafine]

Ken, I use the pencil on only one side of the plank and then try to apply the glue to the edge of the plank without the pencil to avoid getting the pencil/glue mixture on my finger. Like Alistair, I wait until the glue is dry before scraping or sanding. I've never had a real problem doing this with either holly or boxwood.

 

Bob

[KenW]

WOW.  Thanks Alistair, Russ and Bob.  I will try to use less glue, of course; but not using the damp paper towel/cloth sounds like great advise.  And, I will wait to do my sanding and scraping.  Also I will only use the pencil on one side. 

Thanks for your help and great, constructive advise.

Cheers.

[wilnatp]

Silly question, but can you please expand on why you are using the pencil? And where you are using it?

I am new to wooden models and researching before striking out on my first wooden build.

 

Thank you,

Nathan

[KenW]

I 'marked' the edges of the deck planks with pencil to simulate the caulking between planks.  Marking one edge of each plank is definitely better - looks the same and helps keep your fingers cleaner.

Have fun with your first build.

[KenW]

I finished the deck planking and thanks to the helpful advice of Bob, Russ and Alistair, it doesn’t look bad. 

So, I am ready to drill the ‘treenails’.  I did some tests and I am using the pine plastic wood from DAP since my local hardware store doesn’t carry the Minwax wood filler products. The color looks good, so I’m satisfied with that. 

I can see that I will be drilling a lot of holes in the next few days.

 

[rafine]

Nice looking work on the deck planking, Ken. You might try drilling and filling in sections to break the monotony of all that drilling.

 

Bob

[aliluke]

Looks really good Ken. A trick for aligning the nails is to lay masking tape across the deck (port/starboard)along the beam lines/nailing lines and use an awl or pin to make a pilot hole before drilling. Dirk showed this to me at about the same time that I figured it out for myself - see my Fly log. Once you get going with the method and trust it, it is very quick. I keep my treenail drill bit in a special place, stuck to the wall with masking tape, so that I always get the same size hole.

 

I look forward to seeing the results when it is all drilled, filled and cleaned up.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[KenW]

Thanks for the tips.  I am definitely not going to do the whole deck in one sitting.

I did two beam lines and just tried to align the treenail holes with the plank ends.  The first line is off, however.  It is closest to the bow, so there will be a lot of stuff covering the error.

I will try the tape method.

Thanks again.

[KenW]

All the treenail holes are drilled, the deck is sanded, and the result is satisfactory.  It is not perfect due to two oversights I made earlier in the building process.  Where the deck planks meet, one of the planks is not always the same height as the other.  This must be due to an error in my process of cutting and squaring the planks.  Also, when the two planks meet, the join must be in the exact center of the bulkhead.  A center line should be drawn on top of each bulkhead.  If these issues are corrected, the tape used to line up the treenail holes can simply follow the plank joins. 

Next up is the housing; and there is always more sanding that can be done.

 

[russ]

Ken:

I think the treenailing went okay. Once you get the guns and all in place, much of what bothers you will be placed into a larger context and it will look much better.

 

Russ

[rafine]

Ken, uneveness of planks, at the ends or even along their edges, should be be no problem. That's why sandpaper was created. Use a block or stick and go at it. It's hard to sand too much.

 

Bob

[KenW]

Russ:  I agree, the treenail problems will probably go unnoticed.  This brings up the question as to why we bother with treenails in the first place.

Bob:  I agree with you as well.  You can always do with more sanding.

Thanks.

[KenW]

What is the best thing to use for windows? 

I don't like wax paper because it is too 'foggy'; and I don't like the clear plastic wrap.  I think it should be something in-between.

Thanks.

[aliluke]

Ken

You should be able to get a clear, thin acetate sheet from an art supply shop. It is quite rigid even when very thin. Also very easy to cut. The next trick is to find a glue to fix it in place as CA glue will make it go foggy (in fact even using CA close to it can make it fog so it pays to mask off the windows after glazing if you are using CA nearby for other pieces). I use a universal glue called Uhu Glue in NZ. It sticks quite well and is easy to get any excess off with a toothpick. No idea what name it will have in the USA...

 

The other choice is a liquid glaze like Microglaze. Comes out of the tube like a white glue but dries completely clear. Difficult to apply evenly though and sits between the window frames rather than behind them.

 

Them's my thoughts.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[KenW]

Thanks.  I will see if I can find acetate sheet here.  Also, I will research the Uhu glue to see if it is available here.

I appreciate your help.

[aliluke]

Hi Ken

Don't look for Uhu, just look for a universal glue. Uhu is the brand we can get here but I'm sure there are much better brands where you are. The trick is to find a glue that sticks to non-absorbent surfaces, cleans up easily and doesn't fog acetate. Maybe some one else here knows the right stuff in the USA????

 

Cheers

Alistair

Edited November 18, 2013 by aliluke

[KenW]

The cabin front is created.  I followed the plans that show a planked housing and the door is my own design.  For the window ‘glass’, I used the window from window envelopes.  Since all my monthly bills come in window envelops, I have an unlimited supply.  The glue called, Krazy Glue, sold here in the states, holds the ‘glass’ in place.  I put the molding across the entire front because, to me, it looks like a coaming that keeps water out of the cabin.  That means that the door must open inwards and that means the hinges are on the other side of the door.

 

[russ]

Ken:

That door looks great. I will have to start saving my billing envelopes for future use.

 

I like the idea about the coaming and door opening inward. That saves a lot of grief on your end and makes for a neat job. Well done.

 

Russ

[KenW]

I finished the planking the deck and drilled all the treenails.  I decided to follow the color scheme of the Roberts Collection model; at least to a point.  Chuck Passsaro has placed photos from his trip to Annapolis in the Gallery section under, “Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections.”   I should go down to Annapolis myself since it isn't that far.

Next up is to plank the outer hull along with the wales.

You can get to Chuck’s photos from here: 

     ‘http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/448-fair-american-rogers-collection-annapolis/’.

[russ]

Nice work on the deck planking. It looks very good. The treenails look just right to my eye.

 

Russ

[KenW]

Thanks russ.  I attach another photo that takes a closer look at the treenails.  They aren't perfect, but probably not noticeable to anyone who doesn't build models.

 

[russ]

Ken:

Perfect would be nice, but I think they look good as is. Like I said before, once you get the deck fixtures and cannons installed, everything will look great. Nice work.

 

Russ

[KenW]

I finished the starboard side of the outer bulwark planking and wales, and there were several problems.  I had almost completed the planking above the black strake when I realized I had used 1/16^th planks when they should be 1/32^nd.  So I had to tear everything down and start again.  The thinner planks do look better; but I left the thicker planks as the door on the unused gun port.  I like the look better, even though I realize it’s probably not historically accurate.  Also, the fashion piece had to be redone since the first one was too small and not adequate at all.  On the finished starboard planking, I left the new fashion piece and the wales extending beyond the counter.  They will be trimmed once the counter planks have been added.  The ochre planks are boxwood and I will leave them unpainted.  That is a big step from my last (and first) build; so I am pleased with the results so far.

Ship building definitely slows down during the holiday season.

 

Edited March 24, 2014 by KenW

[rafine]

It's looking really good, Ken.

 

Bob

[KenW]

I hope all had a Happy New Year; and wish all the best for 2014. 

 

Now I am back in the ‘shipyard’.  I finished the port side of the outer bulwark planking and wales.  I also added the cap rails (both on the fancy rail and the main rail) and painted according to the plans – except I painted the inner side of the rails black.  It was all pretty straight forward except I have to improve the line between the black and gold painting.

 

 

[russ]

The paint work looks pretty good in the photos. I do not see anything that needs touching up. Nice work.

 

Russ

[KenW]

Believe me, close up the paint job doesn't look as good as the photos.

But, it may be the best I can do.