Medway Longboat 1742 1:24 scale by fnkershner

[Nirvana]

Floyd, I just found this place shipwreckbeads.com 

Best part they are located in Lacey.

[fnkershner]

Any have any advice on how you do your seizings? I now have all my eye bolts made and installed. I have also made all my hooks out of copper and painted them with flat black. So, it is string time. How many Blocks do I need with a hook stropped on it? I count 7. 

Edited December 16, 2021 by fnkershner

[Ryland Craze]

Floyd, I do my seizings the way my father taught me to tie flys to my fly fishing line.  I found a picture that best illustrate this:

I found the above image at this website: https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-sn-shopnotes/smf-sn-seizing?tmpl=%2Fsystem%2Fapp%2Ftemplates%2Fprint%2F&showPrintDialog=1

 

I usually do six turns of cotton thread.

 

Here is a YouTube video link of this process:

 

Also, John Earl has an excellent article explaining his method of seizing on his website located here: https://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html

 

There are many ways to do this.  I use watered down white glue to coat my seizings and once dry, snip the tails of the seizing line close to the loops of the seizing.  I prefer not to use CA on my rigging.  Rigging was very enjoyable on my model.

 

 

[fnkershner]

Ryland - Thanks so much this is perfect.

[fnkershner]

Now it is time to strop the deadeyes. Chuck says to use 24 gauge wire. I would like to know others did this. Since this is the shrouds, there will be significant tension. So, I am thinking I need a twist in the wire at the top of the deadeye. there will also be a small loop for the hook at the bottom. Suggestions?

[fnkershner]

Bruce - thanks for the thumbs up. but I really need some advice.

[fnkershner]

Here are the long awaited Pictures. We had an accident when moving everything to the Dining room table. You will notice the Tiller is gone. Now I have to do some repair.

 

[Ryland Craze]

Your Longboat is looking good.  You are heading toward the finish line.  I stropped my deadeyes by forming the 24 gauge wire around the deadeye.  I formed the strop so that the two ends met at the top of the deadeye.  I trimmed the wire so that the two ends butted against each other.  I then opened up the strop, applied some CA to the underside of the strop and squeezed the strop down into the grove in the deadeye.  Be sure to insert the hook on the wire strope before you permanently close up the strope.

[fnkershner]

Thanks Ryland. A related question - how did you get uniform separation for the deadeye? I was thinking of creating a wire gig that could be inserted into 4 of the holes - 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. A large X shape. 

[Ryland Craze]

1 hour ago, fnkershner said:

How did you get uniform separation for the deadeye? I was thinking of creating a wire gig that could be inserted into 4 of the holes - 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. A large X shape. 

I made the wire jig exactly as you explained.  Measured the distance between the deadeyes from the plans.  It worked very well for me.

[Nirvana]

The "classical X-jig"!

[fnkershner]

I only have one other completed model that is a fully rigged ship. And that model doesn't have any served lines. I do have a serving machine. Do you start the serving with a 1/2 hitch & end with one as well? Also, in the case of this long boat, once you have served the shroud at the top mast. Do you serve again where the loop is joined? I.E. you have the length of the shroud that is served which consists of the length of shroud that goes around the mast and down the Shroud approx 1 inch. How do you join the end to the shroud to form the loop?

[gjdale]

Floyd,

 

To stat and finish serving, I use a sewing needle to pass the serving material through the line being served. A touch of diluted white glue on completion just for added security does the trick for me.

 

Not sure I understand the second part of your question.

[Ryland Craze]

Floyd, I did exactly as Grant did.  I seized the loop as I explained in my December 17th post around the mast.  I seize the served line loop a little higher up on the mast so that when I slide it down the mast it tightens up.  I also use diluted white glue on my seizings.

 

I hope you and your family have an enjoyable Christmas holiday.

[fnkershner]

Let me try to explain this better. It is my understanding that you are supposed to serve the shroud for all of the loop around the mast and approx. 1 inch down the line from the joining of the loop. You are also supposed to serve the other end of the line before you wrap it around the deadeye. Is this not correct?

I have a serving machine, so it is not a problem top wrap the smaller thread around the .35 diameter shroud. Thus it is no hard for me to serve both ends of the shroud. What I am trying to determine is how to close the loop at the mast end of the shroud. If I understand Ryland he is just using a seizing. Of course, there is not much difference between a seizing and serving aside from the number of wraps. With a seizing there is 3 to 10 wraps, and with serving there is enough wraps to cover a certain length of the shroud. And at the deadeye end the served line will be seized 2 maybe 3 times.

 

PS Merry Christmas to all of you!

[fnkershner]

After posting the above note. I took a closer look at both of your pictures. I can see clearly that you did not serve the bottom end of the shroud. and it looks like Ryland did not serve the look around the mast.

 

Grant - I don't see a picture of the top of your mast so I don't know what you did for your shrouds.

 

I think from what I have learned from both of you. I will serve the loop and roughly 1 to 2 inches coming down from the mast. I will also seize the end of the shroud to create the loop. And finally I will not serve the bottom where is connects to the deadeye.

[gjdale]

Floyd,

 

If you take a look at post #87 in my log you will see a photo of the top of the mast and it shows quite clearly where the line has been served, and then seized to form the loop. I’ve copied that photo for you below, but please feel free to delete if it is cluttering up your log.

 

 

 

[Ryland Craze]

19 hours ago, fnkershner said:

I can see clearly that you did not serve the bottom end of the shroud and it looks like Ryland did not serve the loop around the mast.

Hi Floyd,

 

I did serve the loop around the mast.  This was explained in my post #174.  Here is a link to that post:  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19354-medway-longboat-1742-finished-124-scale-by-ryland-craze/?do=findComment&comment=775296

 

I have also attached a close-up picture showing the servings and seizings on my model: 

 

I studied the pictures from Chuck's build and will be glad to forward you some of the close up pictures of Chuck's model that I took at the Northeast Joint Clubs Conferences if it will help clarify things.

 

[fnkershner]

Sorry Ryland the color is so close to the same. It is hard to tell. I am getting excited. I can taste the finish line. I am going to install the metal straps (chainplates) tomorrow. It will be fun to use my serving machine. Another week or 2 and I will be done!!

 

PS I am on my 3rd needle threarder. I seem to break them often. 

[Ryland Craze]

18 hours ago, fnkershner said:

PS I am on my 3rd needle threarder. I seem to break them often. 

I have never used a needle threader.  I just coat the end of the line (about 1/2 inch) with some CA to stiffen it and cut the end of the coated line at an angle when the CA dries.

 

The final steps will go by quickly and the next thing you know you will be finished.  Not many steps left.

[fnkershner]

Currently we are having some artic weather. Which is keeping me out of the garage. So, I may be a bit slowed. I have also become very intrigued over the silkspan sails. There is still that step to come. But I expect that will be fun. And not too challenging

Edited December 29, 2021 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

As mentioned above I am looking for small modeling projects I can do inside until the snow melts. My garage is partially heated but with all this cold weather and no insulation on the garage doors. I don't want to waste the energy. So, temporarily I am working indoors. I think the best project for indoors is the sails for this model. I have received my silkspan and want to cut out the sails. I have tried to print the Sail Plan from Chuck's site. But either my system scales the full page down or crops the page. Can anyone suggest how I get this to print properly so that I have a pattern?

I also notice in the instructions for the sails. He recommends that you add a Biocide to the glue mixture so that the Glue does not attract Mold. Can anyone suggest a source for this biocide? I have searched all the local Home improvement stores and Amazon. I find additives for paint or Mold removal. But they are in such huge sizes and higher cost. I may have to consider a different solution.

Edited December 30, 2021 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Just in case anyone has decided, as I did, to add sails to their model. Let me share the following information. I found that the sail plans are on a 20" by 30" sheet of paper. I had them printed at an office supply store that prints engineering drawings.

 

I also searched Lowes, Home Depot and several local Hardware locations. For the Biocide as mentioned in the guide. I finally found the right item in a Sherwin Williams store. I am now ready to begin.

[fnkershner]

Is there anyone who added sails to their Longboat?

[BobG]

2 hours ago, fnkershner said:

Is there anyone who added sails to their Longboat?

 

I think I've only seen sails on the model by Tom Ruggiero. I like what he did so much that I plan to add them to my model. Good luck with yours.

[fnkershner]

Bob - thanks for your response. I have so many questions. Are you planning to have the sails full or partially furled? If you furl them, do you install the bolt rope all the way around? What size do you think is best for the Bolt rope? Do you make the 4th layer slightly larger so you can fold it over and cover the bolt rope?

 

PS I have enough Biocide to make 5 gallons. Obviously, I will never use all of it. I would be very willing to share.

[BobG]

I've never made sails before so I'm afraid I'm of no help. I'll just try and follow Tom's tutorial and see how it turns out. I like the look of what he did on his Medway build with the sails furled and partly furled. I'm not sure when I'll get around to doing it but, when I do, they'll be my first attempt at making sails.

[fnkershner]

Bob - I do have some experience with sails. but my experience is much more crude than this.

[fnkershner]

If there is anyone who has experience with Silkspan I am all ears! So let me bring you up to date on my progress. I have the shrouds installed and the bottom deadeyes. I have also installed all the stropped blocks for the backstays and the in the bow. I have served the shrouds & backstays. I held off completing the shrouds & backstays so that it would be easier to install the furled main sail. So, this is where I am stuck. I am finding silkspan challenging to work with.

 

Since I have no experience with silkspan I took a sample and tried to glue a strip of silkspan to that scrap. This worked ok but it also stuck to the glass. I also found that it was very difficult to handle. The silkspan is very fragile. And if you let the glue dry it sticks to the glass. I then tried a layer of wax paper between the silkspan & the glass. When I tried to peel the wax paper away it tore holes in the Silkspan.

 

Please Please some deliver me from this hell.

[fnkershner]

For those of you who have used weathering powders. Please share your application methods. If you "paint" it on you get a consistant color across the surface. This is not what is desired. Especially for Rust. I want a random pattern. Inquiring minds want to know.