Fairing the bulkhead

[Worldway]

I have done a lot of searching but haven't been able to find the information I'm looking for.  I am starting to fair the bulkheads for the Winchelsea project.  It's a large project and I know fairing will take a while but I'm curious what techniques, tools, jigs (perhaps) or other methods you use to accomplish the fairing.

 

Right now I'm using a few different sanding blocks with 60 grit paper.  I also have a Dremel with a flexible shaft but I'm afraid of removing too much material.  I also found that the bulkheads get in the way of the handle so I can't remove material at the proper angle using a sanding drum.  Do you use a different kind of attachment?

 

Using the sanding blocks moves the bulkheads quite a bit back and forth as I sand.  Do you have any special techniques to keep them more rigid?  I'm using Chuck's suggestion using binder clips on the bulkhead extensions as to not break them off.  I have one bulkhead that moves so much back and forth as I sand that I feel it hasn't been glued (although I know it has).

 

Do you sand side to side, up and down or another way?

 

Any response would be helpful to establish a proper routine of fairing as I know this is an important step in the building process.

[Bob Cleek]

First, the bulkheads or frames have to be sufficiently rigid to withstand sanding without moving. They must also be set up accurately, but that probably goes without saying. If they move too much, you can put temporary (or permanent if it won't ever be seen after planking) blocking between the bulkheads to give them more rigidity.

 

What works for me is to use a "sanding board." This is a batten of suitable size and width with sandpaper of a suitable grit (120 for rough shaping) glued to one face of the batten. If you want to get fancy, you can glue knob handles on the smooth side of the batten at each end of the batten. This flexible batten is then bent across a number of bulkhead edges or frames and the "high" end of the face of the bulkheads or frames are sanded down to the "low end," which defines the shape of the hull. I generally will mark the "low" edge face of the bulkheads or frames, if not the entire face, so that i can readily see what has been sanded and take care never to sand beyond the "low" edge of the bulkhead or frame. Using the "sanding board" will permit you to fair the bulkhead edges accurately from any direction across the faces of the bulkheads or frames. Where there are bulkheads or frames that require a significant removal of material, you can also carefully cut larger amounts of material using a small spokeshave or other edged tool, but taking great care not to remove too much. Always "work up to the line" with your sanding board. 

[Worldway]

Bob,

 

Thanks for the information, it's very useful and has given me a few ideas.  Do you use a particular batten or specific material to make one?

 

I never considered using hand tools.  I have a miniature plane but never thought to use it.  I have recently ordered a miniature spoke shave and decent chisel.

[Haliburton]

I use emery boards of various grits. 
 

Scott

[mtaylor]

Emory boards here also among other ones made of wood.   I use the flexible type sold by beauty supply shops.   As for the ones made of wood.. generally a piece of scrap tweaked to the size and shape needed and then sandpaper glued to it.

[Bob Cleek]

2 hours ago, Worldway said:

Do you use a particular batten or specific material to make one?

 

A batten can be made of any "springy" material. Straight-grained wood slats work well. The thickness of the batten will determine the batten's flexibiliy, which is a matter of taste. Metal will also work, if it has spring to it. A broken piece of bandsaw blade with the teeth ground off serves well. So do pieces of metal packing banding. Manicure files and emery boards can work, too. They come with the abrasive grit already on them and the ones with a coarse and a fine grit on opposing sides are often handy.  Plastics will work, depending upon their stiffness. You want your batten to be stiff enough to make a fair curve when laid over the bulkheads or frames, but not so stiff that you break the bulkhead or frame trying to make your batten take a curve. Experiment and see what works best for your application. 

 

2 hours ago, Worldway said:

I never considered using hand tools.  I have a miniature plane but never thought to use it.  I have recently ordered a miniature spoke shave and decent chisel.

 

Hand and power tools each have their places, but hand tools often have greater ranges of utility. Power tools can be too aggressive and thus difficult to control, particularly in modeling. For fine fitting to close tolerances, hand tools have the advantage over power tools unless you pay the big bucks for highly accurate power tools. Really good power tools will provide accuracy greater than possible with many hand tools, but at a price. 

 

Like power tools, however, hand tools do come in a range of qualities and the good ones are priced accordingly. A decent set of chisels in smaller sizes are very useful. There are a number of small planes on the market, but there's a huge difference in quality and ease of use between the cheap plastic ones that are sold by modeling retailers and, for example, the nice metal ones sold primarily to luthiers.  The critical thing to remember about hand or power tools, but especially about  hand tools, is that they have to be kept sharp. Keep your tools sharp and they will not fail you. The same applies to sandpaper. When it wears out or gets loaded with dust, get another piece. Work from coarse grits to finer grits. Don't waste your time trying to remove large amounts of material with fine sandpaper.

 

Only buy a tool when you actually need to use it and always buy the best tool you can possibly afford. Realize that old used hand tools in decent "user" condition are often your best value. Learn to sharpen and maintain your tools and do so as often as necessary. You will easily be able, over time, to build up a good selection of fine tools following these principles and your work will be more enjoyable and better with good tools.  You will also save money because a quality tool is one that you will only have to buy once and if you ever decide to sell it, it will retain some of its value.

 

This is a (rusty blade) plastic Xacto "plane." I use the term loosely. I have one which came in a boxed Xacto knife set I bought at a garage sale decades ago. I attempted to use it once. It is totally useless.

 

 

Consider acquiring a Stanley "model maker's plane."  http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan12.htm

 

This is a current Stanley model #12-101 small trimming plane. It'll cost you ten or eleven bucks retail.  Note that its body is made of folded sheet metal. It will do the job well enough.

 

 

This is an original old Stanley #101 small trimming plane. (A very early one, by the trademark on the iron.)  Mint condition collectible ones aren't cheap, but "users" are quite common on eBay and on the used market. (Don't overlook thrift shops and low-end "antique" stores, which often have tool bins full of junk tools, often with a few "finds" among the junk. They often aren't aware of the value of the good tools and there are bargains to be had.)  Note that the body and cap are of cast iron. This one will do the job easier and better because it has more heft and will not flex, has a convenient pad for your index finger to rest upon, and has a better quality iron which will hold its edge longer and be easier to sharpen.

 

 

 

This is Lie-Nielsen's No. 101 Bronze Violin Maker's Block Plane, a copy of the original Stanley #101 in bronze with a precision wheel blade depth adjuster and a cryo-treated A2 steel iron.  https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/lie-nieslen-101-violin-makers-plane.aspx  It'll set you back $100, but it's a real piece of "jewelry" and a really great plane, from all reports. It represents the upper end of the price point and quality scale. Assuming both planes are properly sharpened and set, this plane and the old Stanley #101 will work equally well.

 

 

Here's a collection of Ibex Archtopped Carving Planes with convex soles. The small ones will set you back around $100 a pop. The large one in the foreground, about the same size as a Stanley #101, will make a $225 dent in your wallet. That said, just the thought of owning a set of these beauties will make most model makers start to tingle all over. These puppies aren't cheap, but if you are building concert violins, you gotta have 'em. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/planes/ibex-archtop-carving-planes.html

 

 

 

 

 

He who dies with the most tools wins!

 

[Worldway]

Excellent advice, I really appreciate it. Thanks.