Water stain on walnut of second planking

[Charlie pal]

Hello all, hope everyone had a wonderful thanksgiving..........I was assembling the second planning on black Prince.....spreading glue on a three inch section...pressing the plank securely to the glued section...wiping any excess glue with a damp sponge....and heating each section with my plank bender. I was moving along quite well, but I did notice a small water stain on one plank. My question is ...is there any way to remove the stain? I thought about lightly sanding the spot, but am not sure if that is a good idea. It's not a big spot and really don't want to open a can of worms. Just thought that with all the knowledge out there, someone has a solution.

....Thanks all....Charlie

[Eugenio Treviño]

Charlie, I would try with a fine sandpaper. I did it with my Victory’s second walnut planking to take out glue stains without a problem. 

Do it slowly and check the progress. If you see it is not going ok you can stop doing it.
In fact, if you are going to apply varnish, a good sanding is recommended.
Best regards.

[tlevine]

Your water stain is probably a glue stain.  If so, it has most likely soaked into the wood.  Why do you heat the plank after gluing?  Is it possible to remove that plank without damaging the surrounding planks?  If you used white or yellow glue, isopropyl alcohol will dissolve the glue securing the planks to allow you to remove and replace them.

[barkeater]

I agree that it is probably a glue stain. My guess is that you were using cyanoacrylate glue which is known to do this and is tough to sand out as it penetrates the wood. Switch to polyvinyl alcohol (wood glue or yellow glue) and you will solve your problem going forward. My recommendation is to only use CA when bonding plastic or metal to wood. Wood to wood use PVA.

[Charlie pal]

Thanks to all replies.....as far as glue usage, I only use yellow wood glue, when gluing wood to wood. My only exception is when I need a real quick bond in an area where clamping is not feasible. I wipe the excess glue when fitting each section of a plank with a damp sponge.

Possibly, overwiped before applying heat. Basically I have had good results rolling the glued section with the heat of the plank bender.

Seems to make the planks bind tighter.

 

 

[allanyed]

I have never heard of heating a glued plank, but as they say, live and learn.   When you heat the plank they should expand so when they cool they will shrink and I and surprised you have no gaps.  Can you post a photo?

Allan

[Charlie pal]

I have used this method since reading about it in "ship modeling simplified by Frank Mastini. I find this book to be very informative in easy to understand language. In it it says: apply carpenter's glue no more than 4/5 inches in length. Push plank tight to assure no cracks are left between planks. The heat produced by the plank bender in a back and forth motion, evaporates the water in the glue for a faster set, steams the plank and forms it to the curve of the hull to ensure a perfect bond. The trick is just a few inches at a time so the glue don't dry. Any fillers should also be applied using heat from the plank bender.

                            Charlie

 

[Roger Pellett]

Instead of sanding, try scraping with the grain instead.  A single edge razor blade makes a good mini scraper.  Easier to control than sanding.