USS Constitution by Force9 - Revell - PLASTIC - Revisiting the classic 1/96 kit

[dafi]

Finally looking like guns 

XXXDAn

[CIWS01]

I also can not wait to see how your guns turn out, so many great from this site and they just keep coming. I wanted to say I really enjoy and appreciate your shared research here. Your attention to detail is very educational and makes these projects that much more interesting.

 

I'm very interested in what you have done with the wheel's, they do not please me much OOB. They do seem a bit undersized (incredible considering how small they are as it is!) 

[Force9]

Thanks Dave, Tim , Daniel, and Chris!

Tim - the "Creating a Legend" book has some sketches of the concept of the interlocking planks, but they just reflect what I tried on my gun deck. Martin says they spanned about 40 feet between each interlocking join, but the restored ship has them much shorter...

Your insight regarding the transfer of crew and guns to the great lakes is very interesting. The timing of the crew transfer may have been the spring of 1813 rather than September 1812.  I don't think the General Pike even started construction until April 1813.  I think most of the Constitution crew from the Guerriere battle stayed intact and participated in the Java win. Bainbridge apparently sent several contingents of crew to the Lakes after he returned from his cruise and the Constitution began her more extensive 1813 refit.

 

http://usscm.blogspot.com/2013/04/you-know-how-to-beat-those-fellows.html

 

I've only seen a reference to the General Pike being armed with the "1794 pattern" 24 pounders - the shorter versions similar to what was removed from Constitution in 1808. Tyrone Martin says that the old Constitution guns were generally repurposed for the gunboat fleet favored by Jefferson.

It may be that some of these shorter Constitution versions still exist... Here are some 1794 versions displayed at the entrance to the old armory in Savannah, Georgia:



These are numbered 83 and 81 and researchers believe they are part of the original batch of 90 that were delivered to the navy for use in the new frigates. It may be that these were used to bombard Tripoli in Preble's day.

They measure 105 inches in length and are marked as weighing 46-0-0 hundred weight - about 5040 lbs. The Eagle emblem is very cool... We all need to sweet talk Daniel/Dafi into creating scale PE versions for our next builds!

http://markerhunter.wordpress.com/2010/03/06/early-american-navy-24-pdr-guns/

http://www.captainsclerk.info/speaks/book07.html

http://www.napoleon-series.org/military/Warof1812/2006/Issue3/c_ussconstitutionguns.html

Good stuff!
Evan

Edited October 7, 2014 by Force9

[Force9]

Thank you all for the LIKES!

 

Now let's discuss the kit gun barrels...

 

We know that the 1807 pattern 24 pdrs on Constitution measured 9' 6" and the OOB versions match nicely:

 

 

The kit provided barrels are perfectly fine, but they lack a certain menace... They seem a bit thin to me. With that in mind, I had included some of the white metal versions in one of my Bluejacket orders for comparison:

 

 

These are a nicer fit, I think... They have more of the requisite girth I'm looking for and they generally show similar proportions to the 1794 pattern preserved in South Carolina:

 

 

But where have I seen a barrel like that before...? Aha - the Heller Victory:

 

 

The Heller kit includes a bunch of these barrels to represent both the 32 pdr and the 24 pdrs on the lower decks. I have two Heller Victory kits, so it'd be no big deal to repurpose a set for my Connie build. Heck, I could utilize the Connie 24 pdrs on the Victory down the line...

 

Now notice how the trunnions are represented on the Heller versions... They sit off center down lower. We see this in the 1794 pattern barrel as well. This positioning allowed for a better depression angle when sitting in the gun carriage, but was inherently weaker than center cast trunnions. The 1807 pattern 24 pdrs apparently utilized the trunnions on the centerline.

 

Here is how the barrels would need to sit if the barrel is mounted properly:

This looks fine, but the upward angle is a little awkward sticking out of the gun port. Mounting the same barrel upside down gives a better angle out of the gun port and sits down nicely in the carriage:

But the gnawing fact remains that it is upside down. The solution is to remove the molded trunnions and add the properly centered trunnions:

 

Much better. Looks like I have more holes to drill... Be back in a week or so!

 

Thx

Evan

Edited October 10, 2014 by Force9

[Guest Tim I.]

At this rate it is going to be mostly a scratch build, instead of a kit bash! In all seriousness, I am greatly impressed by your attention to detail, craftsmanship, and the drive to insure that you are providing the best researched interpretation possible. Very well done. I eagerly look forward to your updates.

 

- Tim

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Your new cannons are looking much nicer than the kit ones

[Usgecko]

Real good improvement there - how did you fabricate the wheels - cut from rod, if so may I ask what diameter.

 

Thanks - Stuart

[foxy]

Very nice and interesting story on the cannon for the Connie Evan.

 

As for getting Daniel to maybe make some etching for the cannon and maybe other parts of this ship, that's a hope I to have.

 

Great work shipmate, watching with great interest.

 

Frank

[Force9]

Thank you Tim, Christian, Stuart, and Frank for your continued interest...  Thanks to everyone who clicked the LIKE button!

 

Tim - I'm not sure where a kit bash crosses over to becoming a scratch build... I'm almost certain that I've modified every kit component I've used or otherwise replaced it with something scratch built.  I really don't think I've yet used anything straight from the box.  All part of the fun!

 

Stuart - I used Plastruct rod 4.0mm and 4.8mm (#s 90862, 90863) for the wheels/trucks.  I made a simple jig using scrap styrene to keep a consistent width.  I used drill bit sizes 11/64 and 3/16 to drill holes in the styrene that I built up to the appropriate thickness.  After snipping off some narrow slices from the rod, I'd insert them into the jig and file them flush to the styrene surface. I made multiple holes in the jig surface so that as the jig was worn down with the filing I could rotate to another hole and maintain the approximate width.  I could make a dozen or so before everything was filed down too far and I had to add new holes to the jig.

 

Haven't had much shop time, but slowly making more wheels.

 

Thanks for keeping tabs

Evan

Edited October 20, 2014 by Force9

[wade231]

Evan,

 

Excellent work!  I will be starting my build of this model in the next few weeks.  This will be my first model in about 20 years so I will just be building it from the kit and not putting all the extra detail in it as you have.  I do plan to take my time and make sure it is done correctly.  I do like the way you are doing the paint and plan on incorporating it into my build.  

 

This will be my first sailing ship I have ever done.  I would not have picked this model to do at all myself.  My wife is due with our first son in January and she is setting up the nursery in an old nautical theme.  I have been wanting to get back into modeling for some time and I figured adding some decoration to the nursery would be as good an excuse as any.  Originally I had wanted to do a USS Missouri for the room, but when I was looking at models with my wife looking over my shoulder and she saw the Connie, she made up my mind for me.  After reading yours and many other modelers build logs, it actually has me quite excited to get started.

 

I am especially looking forward to seeing how you do the rigging on the masts, as I believe this will be the hardest part for me as I have never done anything like that before.

 

Once again an excellent and finely detailed and correct build!  looking forward to your future posts!

 

Wade

[Force9]

Hello Wade

 

Thank you for the note!  I think you'll enjoy your Connie build - it is a terrific kit that makes for an impressive display right out of the box.

 

I would, however, suggest any modeler to consider implementing at least two modifications: Thicken the bulwarks around the gun ports (you don't have to panel the entire interior - just add styrene around the inside edges) and build your own capstan for the upper (spar) deck.  The kit provided version is pretty lousy.  You can find my approach earlier in my log - I don't think you'll find it too challenging to replicate.

 

If you want to get something into the nursery before the child turns eighteen (about the pace I'm taking!) you could also consider an "Admiralty Model" type approach.  Build the hull and skip the masts and rigging - or just show the stumps of the lower masts.  That'd knock off a year or so of effort and perhaps reduce the intimidation factor.  It would have the added benefit of being less fragile.

 

Please post a log of your progress and don't hesitate to ping me or any of the other Connie modelers with any questions/clarification.  Those of us who've gone before can at least help you avoid some of our own pitfalls!

 

Thanks again for reaching out!

 

Evan

[CIWS01]

Thanks for sharing the details of the carriage wheels, I was also wondering what you used. 

[foxy]

Great work there Evan on the wheels.

 

I will be borrowing your method for my build.

Am using the HB brass barrels for the 24 Pdrs but will need to cut down the trucks.

 

Thanks for showing.

 

Frank

[Force9]

Ahoy...

 

Sorry folks for the very long gap between updates... Had to call a timeout for the holidays and some business travel.

 

I've been fiddling with guns a bit in the background, but I also managed to lay down some black on the hull.  I had several flavors of Vallejo Black in my collection: Grimy Black (too greenish), Engine Black (too much sheen), and regular "Black".  I went with the latter - it lays down very flat and has a nice neutral tone.

 

Still much to tune up and I have kept some of the masking in place until I paint the red linings of the spar deck ports, but here are some quick views:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The final appearance of the yellow stripe took some thought and compromise... The Corne paintings show the stripe in line with the edges of the gun ports and finishing with a scalloped end after the most forward gun port:

 

 

This is the path to choose if you're paying strict adherence to the Corne paintings.  I have to admit, however, that I do like the wider stripe shown in the Thomas Birch painting of the Guerriere fight:

 

 

This gives the ship a more robust look and sets off the gun ports nicely.  I do think, however, that it would be too big a leap from the Corne paintings.  The 1803 painting done by Corne for Commodore Preble provides a very nice compromise:

 

 

This shows the stripe in line with the upper edge of the gun ports and extending just a bit below the bottom edge.  This version also includes the scalloped front end.  (of course, this has led some people to think that Corne copied this older version when making the 1812 series for Isaac Hull... I don't think so.  Too many other differences and it seems likely that Corne had access to the ship during her late 1812 refit to make newer sketches and notes). Exercising a bit more artistic license, I've elected to use this for my model.

 

Here is how I approached the scalloped front of the stripe:

 

I rummaged around in my collection of spare washers and found one small enough for the purpose.  After laying down two strips of Tamiya tape, I traced the outline of the washer with a hobby knife.  I then transferred the tape to the model and masked off the rest of the stripe before laying down the black paint.

 

 

 

Thanks again to everyone who follows along (and shows great patience between my updates!)

 

Evan

Edited January 12, 2015 by Force9

[Marcus.K.]

A BEAUTY !!!

[dafi]

Worth the wait :-)

 

Beautiful, Daniel

[foxy]

I agree worth the wait, keep it coming .

 

Frank

[patrickmil]

Your paint job is really outstanding. Great work.

[Usgecko]

Looking real good!

[Marcus.K.]

Here are some great books for model builders:

 

The AOTS USS Constitution by Karl Heinz Marquardt is a common reference.  His reconstruction of the ship, however, is questionable... It seems to be a concoction based on some historical influences mixed with the 20th century restoration.  Not particularly useful for my attempt to recreate her August 19, 1812 appearance.

 

Chappelle's History of the American Sailing Navy is a standard reference and includes the very useful drawings of the US Frigate President copied from British records made after her capture.  I've used this for the layout of the various pumps on the gun deck.

 

I've already referenced the Bluejacket kit manual.  That is a terrific resource to have if you can only add one of these to your stash.  Great overview of both the hull and rig - and it includes full 1/96 scale rigging plans.

 

The book in the foreground is new and deserves more comment.  My forum friend Marcus from Germany finally put me over the edge with his glowing recommendation.  It is a very expensive purchase, but well worth it to me.  Olof Eriksen built a very large stainless steel model of our ship and he went to extraordinary measures to thoroughly research every aspect - especially the rigging.  He initially compared notes with Larry Arnot who then connected him to Commander Martin.  Thru Martin's good offices he gained access to the Hull model and conducted a complete survey which even included micro-cameras inserted into the lower deck.  Cmdr Martin also provided him with a copy of Midshipman Anderson's journal made when the ship was being restored to her 1812-1815 configuration in the 1830's.  Additionally, Mr. Eriksen was able to  make copies of the very rare The Naval Apprentice's Kedge Anchor. Young Sailor's assistant. (1st edition 1841) by William Brady.  This reference allowed him to not only compare American practices against British, but also allowed him to compare between Brady, Midshipman Anderson's journal, and the Hull model to find consistencies.  Practices that Mr. Eriksen matched across all three were likely to be very accurate and were incorporated in his model.  We'll discuss some of these findings in more detail as we move along.

 

More of the build shortly

 

EG

Hello Evans, 

 

I have one question: what is the book below Chapelles History of American sailing navy?

[popeye2sea]

The Naval Apprentice's Kedge Anchor. Young Sailor's assistant.(1st edition 1841) by William Brady.

 

 

FYI - The Young Sea Officers Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever, a republishing of the 1819  2nd edition, covers more or less the same information and is available from amazon for about $14.00.

[Force9]

I think that is "the anatomy of Nelson's ships" by Longridge. A nice reference for general ship modeling. It is a detailed description of the authors effort to build his model of HMS Victory back in the 1930s.

[foxy]

FYI book is one I will be after.

 

Thanks guy's for the imput on books for this ship.

 

Have all the others.

 

Frank

[Andreas]

For a first impression, The Young Sea Officer can be seen and downloaded at http://books.google.de/books?id=HmJJAAAAYAAJ&redir_esc=y.

(Sorry, Google wouldn't let me go to ".com", because  I'm from Germany )

 

For a version with a more readable text (17 MB pdf), you can go to: https://de.scribd.com/doc/111910843/The-Young-Sea-Officer-s-Sheet-Anchor-Leever-1853-TEXT. This is a text, which I made in 2012 from the Google-version. As in the Google-version, the last pages of the dictionary are missing. But I have deleted much of the white pages.

 

There is also an online version of The Kedge Anchor from 1852: https://archive.org/details/kedgeanchororyo01bradgoog. To download, go to All Files: HTTPS, there you can download the different sources: https://ia902605.us.archive.org/18/items/kedgeanchororyo01bradgoog/

 

Also you can find The Naval Apprentice's, but the scan is a little bit tricky (double pages around the plates) [looking closer at the pdf, I have to revise the bad word ****   ] https://archive.org/details/navalapprenticss00brad

 

Greetings

Andreas

Edited February 1, 2015 by Andreas

[Kilo66]

Not only is your own build a guide for others seeking to upgrade this venerable kit, your history related sidebars and source material suggestions are like frosting on the cake. Thanks muchly for taking the trouble to post in such detail and for the very useful photo-illustrations. And now, in the immortal words of that precocious little girl in the TV commercial, 'More, more, we want more!"

Edited February 3, 2015 by Kilo66

[Force9]

Kilo

 

Your kind note is very appreciated.  I sincerely hope that others don't mind following along as I make deviations to explain my attempts to give some historical foundation for my interpretation of Old Ironsides.  I really am trying to feel my way through the various sources to settle on a version of "truth" that at least feels right to me!  I'll be back at it this weekend and hope to have more to post soon.

 

Andreas - thank you for the added insight for finding online resources - I've bookmarked all of your provided links!

 

Foxy - I've been following along with your Victory... Beautiful work!!!

 

Henry - I hope you've been hard at work on Soleil since you're mostly buried under many feet of snow.  (Pats Rule!)

 

Thanks all

Evan

Edited February 4, 2015 by Force9

[foxy]

Thanks very much Evan.

 

Your build to is Beautiful work and I follow it with the same to settle on what I consider the truth in 1812th time.

 

Look forward to more from your excellent build.

 

Foxy

[Kilo66]

 If I may attempt to distract you from actual building for one moment, I'd like to ask a reference question. I can hardly believe it but in a few weeks I'll finally be initiating a long-awaited attempt at a huge scratch build of the venerable Revell 1/96 Constitution during the course of which large sections of the port hull will be completely cut away, allowing a full and detailed view of the interior construction and appointments. I don't mind telling you that the photographs and information you have provided so far will be of great help to me. Again, I thank you. That said, I'll tell you that, for entirely aestehetic reasons, I plan to build the bilge pumps as they now exist. There are numerous excellent photographs of the Gun Deck pump arrangements but I have found only one of the pump assembly on the Berth Deck. That one photo is actually failrly well detailed, save for one aspect: what appears to be a large, bright red urn-shaped attachemnt rising from the center(?) of the baseplate. The "urn" is mostly obscured by other components. Do you have any photos of today's Berth Deck pump assembly in what I assume is your  extensive accumulation of print and visual references? You seem exceptionally knowledgable re the Constitution in her several incarnations; might I be fortunate enough to find that you know what the "urn" is and does?

 

 If I may, I'll throw the same question out to any other member who might come across this posting.

 

Thanks in advance to all for any assistance or guidance to a viable image source.

Edited February 9, 2015 by Kilo66

[popeye2sea]

Kilo66, that object is painted red because it is part of the modern damage control systems (fire suppression) on the ship.  I believe that it is a riser for attaching a fire hose to and it comes up through the deck behind the bilge pump.  There is probably a fire hose mounted on the beam right next to it.  Also in a bracket next to it would be a spanner wrench (painted red) used to attach the hose to the riser.  I'll have to check my pictures to confirm.

Not sure which item you have in your picture.  If you post your picture (perhaps in another thread, so we do not continue to hijack Evans) I will be able to help you more.

[Kilo66]

  Popeye, thanks for the reply. This will be my last 'jacking post; I don't usually do that sort of thing. (Evan, thank you for your forebearance!) As luck would have it, I was able to find one more, low-res picture of the current Berth Deck pump assembly taken from a different POV and could now see that it had a modern brass fire nozzle affixed to the "urn," apparently for use with what looked like (and almost certainly is) an equally modern fire hose off to one side, so your response seems spot-on. Based on that, I believe I'll still model the rocker-arm Gun Deck pump and Berth Deck pump assembly (which at least have an early 18th Century look) but leave off the red "urn" and attached modernisms. Again, thanks muchly.

Edited February 9, 2015 by Kilo66