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Starting model of clipper, I am asking myself, is it required to add extra weight in model to be more stable.

 

In this phase of build (planking) thinking about huge and enormous number of sails of clipper, it seems that model will be extra light and unstable. It will be full rigged 

 

This is not war ship with with 20-30-40-50 metal guns, and with extra decks and small number of sails. This is a clipper

 

Something like this

 

post-4738-0-88047000-1372765902.jpg

 

 

What is general opinion about that ?

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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Stand ? It is so far far away now. Just thinking ahead

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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I don't think these ships are that top heavy. Even with guns, that will naturally add a bit of weight, the sails are very lightweight even tho they look thick and the masts shouldn't add more weight than all the framing and planking that makes up the hull. Add decking and even more weight is low in the profile.

I'm not ready to make a base yet for my ship either but when I am I'll make something that allows it to settle low and solid rather than add ballast. Just another part of the build :)

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I don't think these ships are that top heavy. 

 

Of course they are not top heavy, but they are heavier than clippers. I do not think that will be a problem when it's over and put on a pedestal. Will it be too light in the meantime ?

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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I guess I don't understand your question... 'will it be too light in the meantime' to do what? Are you talking about while working on it?

I needed something to hold the ship upright so I took a rough measurement and made a rough cradle for my san fran, put foam on it and covered it with fabric.... it moves around a bit when trying to attach shrouds or ratlines or, well, anything but it doesn't move that much that it is in danger of flipping. And for what it is worth, this ship has only 10 guns and not a lot of deck furniture but that hull (single planked) is heavy.

 

Having said all that... it's your ship and if you want to add some weight inside near the keel while still planking, sure, why not. I can't see that it would be an issue later on :) and if it sits better for you than it's the right thing to do.

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I am a fan of adding some 'ballast' to models particularly for plastic kits. In my opinion it gives a better feel to the hull and does add a little stability when working on the hull. I use washed gravel packed in plastic bags and taped and pva'd inside the hull.

 

I find it less necessary and convenient with wooden pob kits by the nature of their structure, and certainly with my current build with mdf keel and bulkheads it is heavy enough. If I think it is appropriate to add weight to a pob kit I screw metal plates along the keel  between the bulkheads.

 

B.E.

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I agree with B.E.

 

It is technically not necessary to add some ballast. Some people do as it makes the model sit better in the stand as long as it is not permanentely fixed yet and afterwords in does not move around the table that much.

 

Also some people add weight as it suggests a higher value to those handling it. The BIG plastic shavers used to have a bit of lead inside for that reason, also loudspeakers were sometimes given extra weight for this sole reason even though being light weight construction ...

 

Ship wont be moved that often, but if so, it is heavy- it must be solid - it must be gooooooood :-)

 

XXXDan

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I like to weight my models. I generally put and spread a couple of cakes of playdough in the hull in plastic models as soon as possible.

For wood, i put stones and pour some lightly diluted white glue over them.

Edited by Ulises Victoria

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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I like idea to put some weight inside

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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I remember adding extra weight to my Airfix Victory to make it sit correctly in the water - just before blowing it up with a French Banger!

 

Those were the days - probably get arrested on some kind of terrorist charge if we were to try that today....

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If you 'like' the idea of some weight, do it.  If you've used filler blocks between the bulkheads they have already added some weight.  Lead shot covered with epoxy also works well.

 

She's your ship, mate.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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And any idea for next situation: One side of hull is completely closed by planking, the other side is almost closed. Only stays holes for masts on deck

 

post-4738-0-53513500-1373008313.jpg

 

Thinking is is quite necessary to add some weight. A moment of inattention and the ship went down on the floor ( yesterday for instance). Long run to fix it on standing

 

Of course, this way of planking give possibility to easy remove some strips to put something in, but ...

 

Obviously, lack of timely reflection, and must pay some price for that

Edited by NenadM

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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Is there any way you could add sand as the ballast?  Perhaps through the mast holes (assuming the masts are not stepped into the keel).  Or perhaps create some openings underneath where the deck hatches will go?

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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For now in my thinking preffer some metal solution

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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I can not see your deck, but I guess there has to be some holes for the masts, etc. I would put ammunition (small balls of lead for gunshot) through them into the already planked and sealed spaces between frames. Then pour some diluted white glue just to prevent displacement of the balls.

Hope this helps.

Edit: Another possibility is to use the steel balls they use in bearings. Whatever is easier for you to find.

Edited by Ulises Victoria

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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The lighter the model, the less damage it will take if dropped, it could be argued. Dropping a heavily laden model with 2kg worth of needless material could spell catastrophe, as opposed to a few things to repair and touch up.

 

The only concessions I make it to do with the rigging, and none of it is glued/fixed permanently in place (from experience..)

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Ulises

 

you read my mind

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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... but it get less easily dragged/wiped off the work table, if it has some weight. I filled plastic models with lead shot or poured plaster into them. They would just sit more solidly on their (temporary) cradles.

 

wefalck

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Durring repair of frontcastle deck ( remove and remake) some intercostal space was opened up, so I took the opportunity to throw in there plummet through which I poured glue. This gave me the idea that, when I shall work cabin in the middle and on rear side, beneath them open holes in the deck and repeat the same thing

 

This will be enough I think

 

Edit october 18th 2013

 

Same thing with rear deck

Edited by Nenad M

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Everyone!

 

Maybe some lead weights like the ones used to balance car tires could be affixed to the inside framing. They're small and you could crimp several of them in place. And the best part... I would imagine that a tire shop might just give you some.

 

John

John   B) 

 

Current Build: MSW 18 Century Longboat 1:48

Next Build:    MSW Bluenose 1:64

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