HMS Bounty's Jolly Boat by Peanut6 - Artesania Latina Ref. 19004 - Scale: 1:25 - First build wooden ship

[Peanut6]

Yeah, I'm starting to realize the end isn''t too far down the road.  One thing I've found is it is becoming more difficult to safely handle the boat.  I don't have any type of keel clamp (as if my keel isn't compromised enough) nor do I have any type of resting/nesting outfit to set my boat into.  I've seen setups from other modelers using cushion foam or pool noodles.  Suppose I might need to look into something like that for my next build.  I haven't affixed the boat to the stand and anytime I put any pressure bow or stern it lifts out of the pedistal at the opposite end.  And then there is that whole mast and bowsprit sticking out which I'm not accustomed to.  I'm so scared I'm going to bump into them and tip everything over causeing damage or breaking them.  Only thing I can figure is to take a larger towel and roll it up such I can nestle the hull and keep the boat as secure/steady as possible.  Another thing I've discovered is that the 0.15mm (the off-white) line for running rigging can't take too much abuse.  I had to make two attempts at the bowsprit lashing and on the second attempt I must have nicked a section or pulled just a bit too hard as it just pulled apart.  A small waste of line (which scares me, so afraid of running out of both types of line) but learned I need to be a bit more gentle and probably more decisive in what I'm doing.  Don't think the line can take too many Mulligan's.

[HardeeHarHar]

Yes, safely handling a boat in progress is both critical and difficult.  I’ve read where one individual dropped their ship down stairs!!!  Needless to say, it doesn’t get any worse than that…During my rigging of the Jolly Boat, I had a couple of near catastrophic spasms, which made me repeat the following 3 words, over and over….”slow and steady”.  I can’t even remember clearly, but I think I must have affixed the boat to some stand to do the rigging.  I know it wasn’t flopping around that is for sure!  I don’t recall the line being too flimsy either, but I wasn’t pulling it hard…ever.  Can’t wait to see what you get done!!!

Edited April 25, 2022 by HardeeHarHar

[Peanut6]

Got the shrouds and stays seized as mentioned in my previous post.  Here is the obligatory photo of hanging shrouds and stays.

 

 

 

I haven’t trimmed the seizing line nor applied just a hint of CA yet.  In hind sight I think I should have served the line prior to seizing them.  I could remove the seizing but since they’ve been tightened up, I’m afraid of getting a little nick in the line which would make it unusable.  I have enough line for another shroud but not enough for two.  And with my luck I don’t want to take the chance.

 

 

 

I pulled out the cleats I so proudly made last spring and set one on a thwart.  I immediately realized they would not do at all.  I thought about trying to see if I could salvage them but decided there was no way I was going to get all 8 of them to be consistent in appearance.  So I decided to make new ones of a different style.  I used the same method as before but this time I have new tools I didn’t have before, which made things so much easier.  I also switched from my new planking material, 1/16” X 1/4”, to a piece of the kit supplied planking material, 1.5mm X 5.0mm, after testing that it was thick enough to use a kit supplied trimmed nail for added strength when attaching them.  The one on the left is the first go-around and the one on the right is what I will be using, prior to staining and inserting the nails.  A bit fuzzy, sorry.

 

 

 

Now I just need to decide where to put the cleats for my belaying points.  The cleats for the boom tackle will be on the stern thwarts, one port and one starboard.  The tacks of the stay sail and jib sail are attached to the boom.  I’m thinking the clews lines can run to cleats on the thwart just to the starboard side of the jib/mast lashing.  The peaks lines run thru a double block up the mast and I’m thinking they can be secured to cleats on the thwart just to the port side of the jib/mast lashing.  That leaves the gaff halliard and boom lift lines.  From what I’ve read, these lines need to be secured as close to the mast as possible.  The only place I can see would be on the mast hole cover, just aft of the mast with one port and one starboard.  Not too terribly excited about that location but I think its better than the thwart aft of the mast as I think that location would/could interfere with the boom sail (spanker) and I believe the jib/mast lashing thwart will be busy enough.  Here is a top view to help you see what I’m talking about.  BTW, the white card is my guide for spacing my dead eyes.

 

 

 

Any thoughts, suggestions, instructions or great pieces of wisdom are readily accepted and greatly appreciated.  If I’m making a major error I sure would like to know now than after I’ve drilled holes and applied CA.

[HardeeHarHar]

Nice work my good man!  I agree, serving the line before seizing would have looked sweeet, but its not like the seizing alone doesn't look great.  I wish I had thought of doing that, but I didn't do enough research....  Most of the time, I was just driven to see if I could finish it without breaking it in spectacular fashion.  😃  You probably already noted this, but I (for some unknown reason) used belaying pins I installed at various points for the running rigging.  I thought I made some cleats and placed them on the mast and the bowsprit too....but I don't see them in this picture....  Doh.  Keep up the good work Kev!

[Peanut6]

I started drilling the holes into the feet of my cleats for the nails I’m using for reinforcement.  Got the first 6 done without any issues, ony 2 more to go.  While doing #7 the foot broke off, AARRGGHHH.  I knew things were going too smoothly.  I set things down and walked away for a bit.  I figured it may have been better if I had rotated the profile 90°, with regard to grain direction, to increase shear strength, but then I realized that I would have a similar issue with the wing(s) breaking off.  Decided that they were just too small for what I was asking them to do, or I should have used different wood (still first build so I don’t have any left overs from other kits).  I knew I couldn’t make another one that would match and I really didn’t want to make another set so I got to thinking.  How would I show the required extra line of my rigging after they have been terminated.  Cleats aren’t really designed to accommodate extra line, so I need to reconsider belaying pins.  Then I decided that the boom lift, stay sail and jib sail clews lines and the boom tackle line are all pretty much a set length.  Sure you need some adjustment length but not what is necessary for the gaff halliard, stay sail and jib sail peak lines.  So doing my gazintas, I count 5 cleats and 3 belaying pins.  I have 6 drilled cleats plus one more but don’t have belaying pins.  Then I decided that once the rope coils were added to the belaying pins you would only see the tip of the top.  So I made 4 belaying pins out of round toothpicks.  Got the nails in the cleats and stained them along with the belaying pins.  Holes drilled and things dry fitted.  Got the 2 cleats for the boom tackle installed, no problem.  As I was installing the boom lift cleat, the foot broke off just as it was halfway in and the fit seemed tighter than the dry fit. aarrgghh.  But I still have one more so I wasn’t to bad off.  But decided to double check clearances.  The shipwright Gremlins must have been at it again because the holes shrank or the nails got larger in diameter.  Had to do some redrilling in hope of not breaking another cleat to a tight fit.  So this is what I’ve got.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have very serious reservations regarding the strength of the cleats.  If they don’t hold, my back up plan is to use eye bolts.  I raided the Boss’s Rosary making kit and found what I needed.  Don’t know what they were called for her discipline but once they found their way out of her kit they became eye bolts.

[Peanut6]

Working on getting my halyard rigging done prior to setting my top deadeyes but having some trouble.  I'm wanting to use hooks to attach the lift lines on all my sails.  Since I missed the opportunity to serve my shrouds prior to seizing them at the mast, I thought the halyard would be a good chance to give it a try, especially since I'm using hooks.  Seizing loops into the ends to fit the halyard is no problem.  But I'm having trouble serving the middle section so I can then seize a loop for the hook.  The issue is my first attempt pulled my 0.15mm AL kit supplied line apart.  It just spread apart/shreaded in two.  I had the same problem with my bow sprit lashing and was more gentle with the second attempt and got it handled.  I'm using my 3rd hand with painters tape over the alligator clips, to prevent nicking the line, to keep the line tight while serving.  My line keeps losing the tension between the clips making it impossible to serve.  I believe the continued tugging/pulling on the line to keep it tight is just too much.  I've got to come up with a better method to keep the line tight and, more importantly, be more gentle while I'm serving it.    

[HardeeHarHar]

Persistent patient problem solving.

[allanyed]

Kev,

In working on drawings for a 23 foot launch akin to that of Bligh's launch I have come up with a big question on the sails that I hope your and/or your log followers can answer.   The kit shows a single mast and main sail.  The model at RMG which is modern (1988) shows two masts with lug sails.   Based on Bligh's log, he writes about having her rigged with two masts.   My questions are whether there were one or two masts, was she lug rigged or was she like the kit depicts her?  Were there booms for each sail or were they loose footed.  The model at RMG show no booms, but many drawings I have seen have lug sails with booms.  Do you or anyone following this build log know, based on contemporary information,  if she was lug rigged and if so, did she have booms at the bottom of the sails?  The drawing I have come up with regarding basic rigging. so far. is below but may be incorrect.

Thanks

Allan

 

Edited June 27, 2022 by allanyed

[Peanut6]

Allan, sorry to be so late in replying to your question, actually been getting stuff done on my build if you can believe that.  After I realized my Jolly Boat is only a fictitious representation of Bligh's craft and hopefully convincing commenters that I'm aware of that fact, I tried to do some research.  Based upon what I've read, there isn't any definitive detailed description, plans, drawings or complete references to the configuration of Bligh's launch.  Any "actual representation", from what I understand, is based upon comments found in Bligh's log and an accumulation of guesses/assumptions of the standard/typical configuration(s) of boats built during that era (is that vague enough?).  I've read that boats built for that intended purpose were either already existing on the ship and may have been refitted or built anew per the new captains requirements/orders.  I've also read that once Bligh reached land, his launch just kinda' seemed to go away with no real information as to what actually happened to it.  I apologize I'm of no help to you but this is about all I know.    

[Peanut6]

It was a few weeks ago that I secured my standing rigging.  I don’t think it turned out too bad for a first attempt, even though the top dead eyes are a bit twisted.  But I understand it is a natural occurrence, especially in my situation.  

  

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

I started on the halyard rigging and sail installation.  I wanted so show the completed standing rigging and completed halyard rig in a single post.  My plan was to use hooks for my running rigging of the sails.  I wanted to serve and seize a loop for the halyard lift since the other rigging attaches to sail eyes.  In my “Dead eye Twist” thread I commented on my dissatisfaction in the kit supplied line and current inability to replace it.  And as such, decided to abandon my desire to use hooks for my running rigging because the supplied line couldn’t withstand my attempts of serving and seizing a loop for the halyard lift.  It was shortly after that post I was propositioned with the most gracious “Care Package” offer.  Ben, from “Ropes of Scale” read about decision due to my predicament and offered me samples of his 0.25mm, 0.35mm and 0.50mm line to help me out.  With the utmost gratitude and humility I accepted his offer and a week later received his envelope in the mail.  This being my first build, I could only guess at the improvement of the kit supplied line and his line based his web site photos vs what I was holding in my hands.  The difference between the kit supplied line and Ben’s line is like SPAM to a perfectly cooked porterhouse steak.  I couldn’t believe it, now I fully appreciate and understand all the posts I’ve read where the builder has already ordered new line even before the kit has arrived.  With this new line I was able to create the served/seized loop I so wanted and finished up my halyard and sail set up.

 

 

 

 

 

I’m going to redo my my standing rigging and stays using Ben’s line.  This will give me the opportunity to serve the standing rigging and stays prior to seizing them at the mast, which I forgot to do the first time around.  Also, from what I think I’ve learned from my “Dead eye Twist” post, I hope to reduce if not eliminate the twist of my top dead eyes.  Man that post got a ton of traction and a surprising amount of information came of it, so glad I asked.  And finally I can do my blocks correctly.  The photo’s don’t show it, but I attached my blocks upside down.  I learned this from reading another post here at MSW.  Probably nobody would have noticed unless I shared a picture at just the right angle, but I would know and that’s what counts.  So another situation of 1 step forward and 2 steps back for me.  But I feel very confident that I can redo the work in less actual time spent working and it will look a ton better due to Ben’s line.  Once again I must apologize about the photo quality, they always look nice and clear in the preview but sometimes come out a blurry.  I think I may go back to the camera I was first using, even though it eats batteries just for snacks, and see if they come out any better.

[Peanut6]

EZ, I can't express the difference in the AL kit supplied line quality versus what I got from Ropes of Scale.

 

I don't have a "serving machine" so I have to do mine manually.  The process I use is very similar to how archers serve their bow strings.  For serving/seizing I use black polyester fly tying line from my Grandpa's fly tying set-up (haven't quite yet figured how the vices will be helpful, but I'm sure the ideal opportunity will present itself one day) I inherited when he passed away.  I start by tightly wrapping the line over itself along the shroud/stay for a handful of turns to secure one end of the serving (pulling the loose end to snug up the first wrap-around).  I pull that first end out of the way and continue wrapping the line tightly as far as I'm going.  I leave the last handful of wrappings a bit loose so I can thread the second end of the line back thru them toward the direction I started, work on tightening up the loose wrappings and finally pulling tight the second end to snug things up.  Finishing off like this can be tricky, you need to get the wrappings snug together and at the same time tighten them up.  Sometimes I get them tight before I can get them snug and have to back things off a bit and try again.  An alternate method to finish it off is to tie a half hitch followed by a second half hitch (a double half hitch I think is too bulky), pulled tightly, the scale is so small it can be extremely difficult to see.  Very carefully trim both loose ends close to the serving, being extra careful not to nick what I've just created.  Hit each end of the serving and the trimmed end locations with a hint of CA and call it done.  I had no problem seizing/serving of the kit supplied shroud/stay line of that supplied with the kit.  But the kit supplied running rigging line couldn't withstand  the tension/pulling/snugging of wrapping the seizing/serving line and just pulled apart.

 

Seeing the Oseberg in person, oh you lucky man.  I've had the kit for about 10 years knowing, it would be at least a 3rd build if not later, and it was old then.  There have been numerous "versions" between that kit and what is offered today.  From looking at build logs I realized my shipwright skills would need to improve before I would be comfortable attempting the Oseberg and the time gets closer I'll then start/do more research on Viking ships.     

[allanyed]

Kev,

Just a general comment.  Your stick to-itiveness has been great to see and you have made a very nice model especially considering what you had to work with.  I imagine this project has been a great learning experience and I hope to see you follow up with a new project when this one is complete.   If you do go with a kit, caveat emptor, there are two or three really good kit makers and a lot that are pretty awful as you have seen with this project.  

Allan

[Peanut6]

EZ, they are similar but serve (pun not intended) different purposes.  As I'm sure you know that serving is done to protect a line from wear and tear while seizing is used to secure the line upon itself.  I tried to serve using the same method I seize and found that the length I was traveling was a bit too much (because the wrapping happens upon itself over the entire length) to be able to pull both ends tight and snug everything up.  The shroud/stay had a tendency to pucker up a bit or just couldn't be tighten it up sufficiently.

 

I can understand not being able to get excited about something you have no interest in (or at least at the time), especially if you have a hole in your hungry spot.  

[Peanut6]

Allan, thank you for your kind words, they are greatly appreciated.  My first, and extended hiatus, was due to my "Hey Daddy" button being located in the chair I used while at the shipyard.  The starts and stops the last couple years have been to due to work, or lack there of.  I do have to admit that I'm a bit proud of my first build so far (except for the bottom gudgeon).  I can't count the skills and lessons I've learned with my little Jolly Boat.  It looks like this build, when completed, will reside on the fireplace mantle since The Boss has already decided the tops of the 3 pieces that make up our entertainment center are perfect places for my Oseberg and 2 more builds.  I mentioned that total ship height would need to be considered, she then mentioned that the top of our antique piano would be a good place to handle one of those.  I will have to seriously consider The Boss's opinion in the selections of my future builds.  I mean, if she has selected places for display she probably has some type/style in mind.    The next step is removing and redoing my standing rigging and stays with my new line.  I thought it came out pretty good for my first attempt so cutting them loose is tough.  I plan on taking them down in such a way I can use them as a guide in determining length(s), which was of the upmost concern first time around.  Thanks again for visiting my log, all comments are always welcome and greatly encouraged.

[allanyed]

Love your thinking and attitudes!  These go a long way, not just for youngsters like you, but even for us oldsters.    If you are ever in SW Florida, lunch is on me.

 

Allan

[Peanut6]

Allan, long ago The Boss defined me as stubborn and a perfectionist so I thought they could be positive attributes for this hobby.  If a few days shy of 62 labels me as a youngster, I'll take it.  The closest I've been to Florida is a red-eye layover in Atlanta from Indy to LAX, but I'll be sure to look you up if I ever find myself in you part of the country.

 

EZ, your time frame is my hope as I just can't stand the thought of mixing the lines.  The ever so brief image that made it's way into my mind is something I just can't unsee.  I'm getting closer to cutting it loose, I did bring the boat to the shipyard and removed the cap from my hobby knife yesterday.  But just as I was getting ready to cut the first lanyard loose something interrupted me and had to set things down.    

[Peanut6]

I've got the shrouds and stays served and seized for the mast using the new line from Ropes of Scale.  I had hoped to use the existing shrouds as guides for dead eye placement.  After a couple days of fiddling with it I think I've found a method to use them, but time will tell.  One thing dawned on me while I was removing the old rigging, I'll want to redo the lashing on the bow sprit.  Can't leave the old line, it just wouldn't look right.  I used CA to set the ends of the line so I'm sure the debonder I'll need to use will affect the staining of the mast and bow sprit which will require touch up.  But I could/hope being wrong and things come off nicely, again won't know till I do it.

 

Had a couple interruptions lately, we had out of town family come by for a week long visit which was very nice.  Great time but now I know how EZ feels in regard to stepping away for a bit making it harder to get back at it.  The other thing was a storm that blew thru and decimated 3/4 of our big shade tree in the front yard.  I've really become more sensitive to the heat and humidity here in central Indiana as I've gotten older (a couple of bouts with heat stroke in my younger days probably didn't help) so I can only work on making little things out of big things in the mornings.  And lastly, after an extended lay off, I got a job and will be starting on Monday.  That will end my middle of the day efforts, whether they were just mental or actually doing something.  I would like to get this build done soon so I have enough time to subtly hint at what would be a great Christmas gift, build #2 

[HardeeHarHar]

Hey Kev - I am hoping you can unlash the bow sprit gingerly, using a minimum of acetone, and not have much problem with messing up the staining you have done.  Slow and steady mate!  Speaking of slow and steady, I know what you mean about life not helping with ship building.  However, having a job is likely going to be a good thing in the end, and while working on a tree that has fallen is not a good thing, at least it didn't do any damage to your house or car, etc.  Finally, having fun with family is a great thing. Got to take things as they come at you some times.  Here in NC, I have only managed to get one of the ten cannons installed in the gun ports so far....it's fiddly, and my hands are not so steady.  Luckily my eyes aren't that good either, so I can't perceive the shaking so much.  I'd have to say it looks pretty good all tied and glued in place, but we will have to wait and see if I can match its appearance with the other nine cannons before I get all proud of myself.  At this pace, I should be done with the Granado in 2035 I believe, and I don't have a lot of reasons for being so slow other than fear of the unknown and lack of talent.  Good luck and send pictures as your progress (on the build, not the tree =).  Cheers!

Brian

[Peanut6]

Thanks HHH, we were very lucky regarding the tree.  We lost 3 of the 4 major limbs of the main trunk.  With all due respect to the very skilled and brave people working in the lumber industry, I honestly don't think anyone of them could have done a better job than what Mother Nature did on her own.  Zero damage to any structure or plants, with minimal encroachment into the neighbor's yard.  For the second time, we were soooo very lucky with this tree.  We've decided to make it go away and replace it with a Red Maple.  I'll be posting pictures of my Jolly Boat when I've got the boat back to where she was prior to getting my new line.  Found more than a couple benefits to redoing the standing rigging.  I'll be adding the rings for the spanker to the mast prior to securing the rigging as I'm very sure it will be easier to get them closed back to proper shape after opening them up for the bolt rope rather than for the mast.  Opening them up is probably the wrong term, I'll be moving the ends of the rings laterally rather than spreading them apart.  Then there are all the blocks I seized backwards.  The hole goes on the top, not the bottom.  And hopefully I can do my dead eyes with minimal twist due to what I think I learned in my Dead Eye Twist question.  Probably won't see the boat till this weekend, kinda' forgot how drained one gets after a full work day.  Thanks again for all comments and reactions this build is getting and hope that just might help someone out in the future.      

[Knocklouder]

On 4/6/2022 at 9:08 AM, Peanut6 said:

" . . . 99.9% of the people who see your model in the flesh won't know a rudder from an udder . . . "  totally priceless   

I am a 1% er lol

Edited August 13, 2022 by Knocklouder
Typo of course

[Knocklouder]

Just read your log great job,and you tackle all the problems  so easy . It does look really good 👍 👌 

[Peanut6]

Knocklouder, thank you so much for having the courage to read my entire log.  I liked your screen name explanation by the way.  I know my posts get wordy at times but I can't seem to help myself.  This journey has been the definition of two steps forward and one step back.  There haven't been very many steps that I haven't messed up or decided that a do-over could get a better result.  With a couple exceptions, I'm pretty pleased with the results so far.  Thanks again for the visit and your kind words, they both help to build my confidence and keep me motivated.  Lately I'm finding it hard to find the proper frame of mind and the time to finish my standing rigging.  I sure the two will find each other at the same time before too long.  

[Peanut6]

Yesterday was another 2 steps forward, 1 step back attempt.  I finally got the courage to remove the bowsprit lashing fully, expecting there to be rework.  I was just positive that I'd have to use acetone to remove some CA that found its way onto the wood which would foul up the stain on the mast and bowsprit.  To my utter joy, the kit supplied line came off with out any complications, no CA on the wood so everything looked just as it had never been there.  I get out my new line from Ropes of Scale and get to relashing the bowsprit to the mast.  Got it done and ran the running end down the mast, under the lashing loops using a small sewing needle, and trimmed back to the lashing loop just fine.  All that was left was to trim the fixed end back to the lashing loop and apply diluted white glue to set it up.  I was feeling really good at this point.  Everything was neat and tight and the new line looked sooooo much better.  The color, IMHO, looked great against the wood and seeing the twists of the rope just topped it all off.  I used tweezers to grab the fixed end of the line so I could trim it back and . . . . I just nicked the lashing loop so everything just sprang loose.  After uttering many bad words, I escaped to the garage to have a smoke and a cold one while I recomposed myself.  Today I'll give it another try. 

[HardeeHarHar]

Oh noooooooooo. I feel your pain.  I learned the hard way one time, inadvertently cutting two lines instead of one.  I'm extra careful now that I have seen how easy it can happen, and how sharp scissors can become all of a sudden.  Hope you can recover the strength and willpower for another attempt today!

[Ken_2]

Kev:  I just read through all the work you've accomplished since I last read it.  You're on fire! and getting a lot accomplished.  Your results look great.  You are way ahead of me.  You are doing so well I have little/no advice for you.  I struggled to get my rudder straps bent to match the instructions.  Yours look professional.  I think it is very hard to get everything perfect.  But as you build each boat, one becomes more familiar with the tricks and skills (i.e. experience).  I will be very good in another 20 boats (ha), but it seems to me you will be an expert much sooner.  It does not seem to me you are a beginner.

 

Have you given any thought to your next boat?

 

Ken_2  (Ken)

[Scotty W]

On 2/11/2021 at 8:56 AM, Peanut6 said:

If I didn’t know better I would think my photography is improving, even if I do say so myself (I apologize for the self-promotion).  This next set of pictures show bending and attaching my garboard planks.  I have read many posts about how soaking planks makes them much more flexible.  But it doesn’t really hit home until you experience it for yourself.  But the real magic comes when you unclamp the plank after it has dried.  If I was impressed at how flexible a plank becomes after being soaked I’m totally mesmerized by how it keeps it’s shape after it dries and is when unclamped.  That was soooo cool.  I don’t have much else to add other than a thank you to Dan Vad on the heads up about push pins and the modification thereof.  Even though it may be a given to many of you, it was very enlightening and made all the difference for me.  Obviously you can see my fairing and the extra drops of glue I added to the flooring battens.  I also did some touch-up staining on any frame sections that I thought might possibly be visible after the hull planking.

 

I used the push pins to plank the first layer as well as you saw in my log. I contemplated using pins and removing them but at my state of inexperience I saw the push pins being more in my league for now but might get brave enough to do it like Olha Batchvarov next time, if there is one ha ha. I knew the first layer would be covered by a thin second layer so it was thankfully forgiving for my first time.

[Scotty W]

On 2/11/2021 at 9:30 AM, Peanut6 said:

Well that recreates my original build log as best as can be done.  All my additional posts here will be new content.  Next thing to do is take a few photos showing the additional work done since the last post.  This will represent the current status , and I need to figure out the dialog to accompany them.  All comments are welcome and strongly encouraged.  I Hope my build log style isn’t too cumbersome to read thru.

 

Take care and be safe.

kev

Quite entertaining! Do you write novels too? lol

[Scotty W]

On 3/1/2021 at 2:23 PM, Peanut6 said:

I believe I see the pros and cons of the two options as I see them.  I could carry on with what I have.  That would require me to remove the two planks on the port side and fiddle with them to make it match the starboard side.  The pros would be not wasting the lumber and time I’ve already invested.  The cons would be continuing to chase my error down the rabbit hole hoping to correct it before the final plank.  I’ve been using push-pins to hold the planks in place during bending and gluing.  I really don’t want to continue on with that method as I’ve already split one frame that I had to fix and I’m very concerned it will happen again.  But with the flooring in place and the relationship to the frames I just don’t have any other option that I can see.  Finally the garboard plank just won’t look right and I’m not sure if I’ll have enough plank width for the bending and twisting required.  Plus I’m seeing that trying to trim the plank ends at the bow to accept that piece of the keel will be very challenging to say the least.

 

My other choice would be to remove what I’ve done and start over.  The cons are the time and lumber wasted and I don’t have enough 0.5mm X 5.0mm Ramin strips that came with the kit.  The pros are that I will be able to do it as I should have been done it to begin with.  Starting at the garboard plank and banding to hull in half.  My method of trimming and applying the chamfer to the inside edge was using worked quite well for me.  So I think I only have to knock off the rust, so to speak, to come back up to speed on that.  Finally figuring out my measurement error should enable me not to make the same mistake again, especially if I use the proper techniques in measuring.  And I believe that if I use the flat part of the false keel as a reference point starting at the garboard plank to trim the planks at the bow I’ll establish enough of a run to follow as I get towards the top of the bow where the flat runs out.

 

I can’t seem to find Ramin wood at all let alone strips of any kind to match to match the measurements of those provided in the kit.  I have found a source for a 42 count of 1/16” X 1/4” X 24” Basswood for roughly $20US plus tax and shipping.  The thickness difference IMHO is negligible and I think that the little extra width is not a problem at all, you can always take some away but can’t always put back.  Please share you thoughts regarding the replacement wood choice.

 

Duanelaker, if you could share your method of trimming the planks at the bow to accept the that portion of the keel, it would be greatly appreciated.  I would hate to finally get the planking done to an acceptable level and then mess it all up at that point.

 

Thank you all in advance for your insights/advice, it is greatly appreciated.

 

Take care and be safe.

 

kev

I drilled pilot holes a wee bit smaller than the diameter of the push pins with my full sized portable drill into the frames next to the plank I was installing which eliminated splitting. It was nerve wracking using that powerful Ryobi drill with such a small bit on my ship but it worked out. I have since aquired a small cordless rotary tool I would use next time for such operations.

[Scotty W]

On 6/17/2021 at 4:04 AM, Peanut6 said:

FINALLY!!!  I got the whiskey plank installed.  As I had hoped, once I got past the flat portion of the keel and onto the transom, the planking went much easier.  I’m of the belief that the difficulty I was having with the first few planks was due to the contours of the hull rather than the difference in the wood from 1^st attempt and this time.  I wound up having to use CA at all points on the last 2 planks per side because there just wasn’t any place for clamps.  I went ahead and trimmed the planking even with the transom and the slot at the bow for the keel installation.  Even though I still have the wales and bulwarks to install I’m calling the hull planking complete.  It isn’t all that good but I did achieve my goal of not using any steelers or drop planks plus I believe the symmetry isn’t that bad.  Still had a few stretches where I must have not faired the frames as well as I should have because there is a bit of clinkering.  I hope it comes out nicely when I do the sanding and doesn’t leave some areas too thin.  I'll begin the gap filling, sanding and some touch-up staining in a couple spots tomorrow.  Would greatly appreciate any comments and/or suggestions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And another advisory note:  At this point I would suggest the builder strongly consider tapering-sanding down the planks that attach at the false keel to be even/level with the false keel.  I'm talking the bottom 5 planks shown in the aft view above.  The reason for my suggestion comes at a later step where you are installing the gudgeons for the rudder.  In my build I just couldn't position the bottom gudgeon due to the geometry at that location.  The surface differential from the stern post to the planks kept pushing the gudgeon off the back end and making is slip down towards the keel.  In other builds I've those who possess mad metal bending skills where they were able to bend the gudgeon at just the right spot and at just the perfect angle to enable the gudgeon to sit so nice . . . . I don't possess those skills.  I decided to sand down the planks from the transom down toward the keel to give a smooth transition from the stern post to the planks and the gudgeon just slipped into place like it belonged there, which of course it does.  I scruffed up my stern post and keel just a bit during the sanding process, which required some staining touch up after the fact.  So unless you also possess mad metal working skills, now is the time to do that sanding before the keel and stern post are installed.  Here is a pic of what I'm talking about.

 

 

You can really see the difference between this view and the aft view in the picture above.  Hope this helps.

 

I had the same issue at my transom and read later that builders either this the false keel in the deadwood area by half before planking or don’t plank there at all on the first planking. I just tried to taper from the second planking into my stern post as best I could and write it off to inexperience. The rudder hinges gave me a fit and bad instructions complicated things but I managed albeit if my rudder has limited range of movement but figure nobody is going to in the case trying to come about. lol

[Scotty W]

On 5/3/2022 at 10:27 AM, Peanut6 said:

Got the shrouds and stays seized as mentioned in my previous post.  Here is the obligatory photo of hanging shrouds and stays.

 

 

 

I haven’t trimmed the seizing line nor applied just a hint of CA yet.  In hind sight I think I should have served the line prior to seizing them.  I could remove the seizing but since they’ve been tightened up, I’m afraid of getting a little nick in the line which would make it unusable.  I have enough line for another shroud but not enough for two.  And with my luck I don’t want to take the chance.

 

 

 

I pulled out the cleats I so proudly made last spring and set one on a thwart.  I immediately realized they would not do at all.  I thought about trying to see if I could salvage them but decided there was no way I was going to get all 8 of them to be consistent in appearance.  So I decided to make new ones of a different style.  I used the same method as before but this time I have new tools I didn’t have before, which made things so much easier.  I also switched from my new planking material, 1/16” X 1/4”, to a piece of the kit supplied planking material, 1.5mm X 5.0mm, after testing that it was thick enough to use a kit supplied trimmed nail for added strength when attaching them.  The one on the left is the first go-around and the one on the right is what I will be using, prior to staining and inserting the nails.  A bit fuzzy, sorry.

 

 

 

Now I just need to decide where to put the cleats for my belaying points.  The cleats for the boom tackle will be on the stern thwarts, one port and one starboard.  The tacks of the stay sail and jib sail are attached to the boom.  I’m thinking the clews lines can run to cleats on the thwart just to the starboard side of the jib/mast lashing.  The peaks lines run thru a double block up the mast and I’m thinking they can be secured to cleats on the thwart just to the port side of the jib/mast lashing.  That leaves the gaff halliard and boom lift lines.  From what I’ve read, these lines need to be secured as close to the mast as possible.  The only place I can see would be on the mast hole cover, just aft of the mast with one port and one starboard.  Not too terribly excited about that location but I think its better than the thwart aft of the mast as I think that location would/could interfere with the boom sail (spanker) and I believe the jib/mast lashing thwart will be busy enough.  Here is a top view to help you see what I’m talking about.  BTW, the white card is my guide for spacing my dead eyes.

 

 

 

Any thoughts, suggestions, instructions or great pieces of wisdom are readily accepted and greatly appreciated.  If I’m making a major error I sure would like to know now than after I’ve drilled holes and applied CA.

Cleats, oh those blasted cleats. I spent 3 full days working on my nine cleats since 5 of them have a radius on the bottom for foremast, boom and bowsprit mounting. Sanding and drilling those teeny weeny things was a challenge to my physical and patience limitations but I finally decided they were good enough and stained them last night. I’m way ahead of my build log but will try to get caught up when I can. Your hull turned out beautiful.