HMB Endeavour by Micklen32 - OcCre - 1:54

[Micklen32]

Looks like I may have to do a bit of cheating as I am very disappointed the way the stain has taken on the Falconet supports

 

 

 

I sanded it well after fitting the bands but it looks like the glue has spread badly

Considering it was thick and only a tiny drop was used I was rather upset   

I wish I had still got some of the loctite gel left but I used that up on the other builds

If I try to sand any more it will put the wood out of shape so I think I will have to redo

Not at all happy with this

I had a slight problem with bleed on the handrails but not as bad as this

Trouble is the wood is so soft

Oh well I will have to see what I can do   

 

Keep it up   

Mick

[Micklen32]

Well pleased

I tried using card and also I stained first

Stain does affect the glue a bit so I had to try several times on some as the glue would not go off

However the bit of extra work is well worth it as you can see   

 

 

So much better and as the Admiral used to make gift cards she had some quality black card I could use   

 

Keeping it up   

Mick

[Micklen32]

Hiya all   

Still working on bits and bobs

I have a question about the windlass

 

 

I have made a start on mine but I have a question about its finishing

OcCre tell you to make marks on it so

 

 

Now, what are they meant to represent???

Is it good doing them like that or, like I did with the capstan, would drilled holes be a better representation?????????

As I am not sure what they are for I am looking for advice

Working on the ships bell too

Going to have the metal surround gold rather than brown   

Have a bit of glitz   

Anyway the ships bell was very important so I don't mind a slight departure from reality       

 

Keeping it up   

Mick

Edited September 4, 2013 by Micklen32

[aliluke]

Mick

The square marks are square holes into which handspikes or bars are inserted to give leverage to turn the windlass. The suggestion that they are marked rather than formed is probably because making a square hole is difficult without a milling machine. You probably can get away with a round hole although it isn't technically correct.

 

I reckon you'd be well served by getting yourself a copy of "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. It will answer most questions about bits of ships and has a wealth of very good drawings and modelling tips. I'm sure many here have a copy - I sure do and enjoy leafing through it. It also has a picture of an Endeavour model on the cover!

 

Cheers

Alistair

[Jim Lad]

Mick,

 

The photo below shows the windlass on the replica endeavour.  You can see the handspike holes quite clearly.

 

 

In this photo you can see the square handspike holes at the outboard ends of the windlass on my Palmerin model.  The square holes were made by first drilling the holes to size and then squaring them off with the tip of a very small square file.

 

 

John

[Micklen32]

Mick

The square marks are square holes into which handspikes or bars are inserted to give leverage to turn the windlass. The suggestion that they are marked rather than formed is probably because making a square hole is difficult without a milling machine. You probably can get away with a round hole although it isn't technically correct.

 

I reckon you'd be well served by getting yourself a copy of "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. It will answer most questions about bits of ships and has a wealth of very good drawings and modelling tips. I'm sure many here have a copy - I sure do and enjoy leafing through it. It also has a picture of an Endeavour model on the cover!

 

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Alistair

I do have a dremel with some tiny routing bits so with a steady hand and some practice.............!!

As to the book

165 QUID                               

The paperback is £58             

I can't afford that on my meagre pension   

Luckily Amazon do second hand and I am having a copy sent from America in good condition for under £8 including shipping               

 

Keep it up   

Mick

Edited September 5, 2013 by Micklen32

[Micklen32]

Mick,

 

The photo below shows the windlass on the replica endeavour.  You can see the handspike holes quite clearly.

 

5580 - Replica of Endeavour Large e-mail view.jpg

 

In this photo you can see the square handspike holes at the outboard ends of the windlass on my Palmerin model.  The square holes were made by first drilling the holes to size and then squaring them off with the tip of a very small square file.

 

24239 - Palmerin Large e-mail view.jpg

 

John

Hi John

Thanks for that

As I just said to Alistair I do have a dremel so I can make the slightly elongated holes and then square them up with a square point file

I want to mostly try and get it right rather than just inking the holes in

 

Keep it up   

Mick

[aliluke]

Mick, you will be happy with this book - guaranteed. It has more in it than you'll ever need to know and the drawings are amazing. Well done on the price - I think I bought mine new when it was still in print so it was about $NZ40 or 20 UK pounds. 8 UK pounds is a steal.

 

Good buy - enjoy.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[Adrieke]

Mick I suggest you practice making the square holes on a piece of scrap wood

[Micklen32]

Mick I suggest you practice making the square holes on a piece of scrap wood

Hi Adriaan

Yes I think I will go along with that about 150%   

I have a miniature point square file which I think will be perfect to finish the holes off with

So here's hoping   

 

I hope you are still feeling good and your builds are going well   

 

Keep it up   

Mick

[Micklen32]

There we are then 

The windlass and the ships bell 

 

I think the bell looks fine with the gold paint

The windlass took a bit of practice but I think I got the holes as good as I could

So I am fairly pleased

I am getting very close to the time when I need to finish the painting   

I have some new brushes so it could take place anytime now

 

Keeping it up   

Mick

[UdoK]

Hi Mick,

just went trough your buildlog, you are way far ahead of mine.

You are doing a great Job, keep going as I will keep an eye on your ship.

[aliluke]

Good work on the windlass Mick and I hope that my book recommendation doesn't make you regret spending 8 pounds.  Actually I know it won't.

 

Your bell - sorry mate, ditch the glitz in my opinion. The roof of the belfry could be gold but gold all over??? Too much in my opinion but, hey, it is your ship - up to you.

 

Glad to see you've taken to cheating too .

 

Cheers

Alistair

[gjdale]

Nice work on the windlass Mick.

[Micklen32]

Had my first major accident today

The ship slipped as I was painting and took off a length of handrail and some columns

I have them back on ok but the incident has me thinking whether to paint the handrails etc black as I have seen in other Endeavour models, as I am not 100% with the staining

 

I am doing the major painting now but have made a few other things ready to fit such as the davits and I have decorated the transom

 

So, back to work watching the golf as the paint dries

What do you think of the black rails etc, OK?????

 

Keep it up

Mick

Edited September 7, 2013 by Micklen32

[Micklen32]

Good work on the windlass Mick and I hope that my book recommendation doesn't make you regret spending 8 pounds.  Actually I know it won't.

 

Your bell - sorry mate, ditch the glitz in my opinion. The roof of the belfry could be gold but gold all over??? Too much in my opinion but, hey, it is your ship - up to you.

 

Glad to see you've taken to cheating too .

 

Cheers

Alistair

Yes I do see your point Alistair

Maybe a gold top with a black surround

I will have a think on that

 

And yes, the cheating worked very well   

I did use brass on the end of the davits though as I wanted the finish   

 

Keep it up   

Mick

[Micklen32]

I was quite surprised how tricky it was to apply the masking tape

I have it done though and I am ready to do the black

 

 

I will do what I have masked then decide whether to do the gallant rails, handrails etc.

Please let me know what you think about that

 

Keeping it up   

Mick

[UdoK]

Hello Mick,

masking tape looks good, it denotes a clean line.

In order to prevent paint spreading under the tape, creating distortion, I'am using some flat mat varnish. Just brush it along the edges of the tape to seal it.

[Micklen32]

Hello Mick,masking tape looks good, it denotes a clean line.In order to prevent paint spreading under the tape, creating distortion, I'am using some flat mat varnish. Just brush it along the edges of the tape to seal it.

 

Thanks for that Edward

A simple idea that wouldn't cross your mind

I will give it a go

Mick

[Micklen32]

Hi all, I am happily painting away, bemoaning the quality of the wood   

But I have a question for the Endeavour experts and those with a library   

The question is about slots on the front davits

 

 

The picture has arrows pointing to what looks like slots, but the instructions say nothing about them

So do they go right through?

I presume they do

And the dimensions

They look to run from the brass wrap to the pulley holder

Does that seem about right

Thanks in advance for the heaps of advice   

 

Keep it up   

Mick

 

[UdoK]

Hello Mick,

the CC drawings are showing four holes only. Attached the drawings from my AotS book, actually the Slots are the cat head sheaves. the pulley diameter, measured on the drawing (scale 3/8in = 1ft) is 8mm, width of the Slot 10mm. I don't have no idea how to convert this scale into something metric.

I have noticed your instructions asking to install a pulley (155) on the thumb cleat. This is not shown in my book.

 

have a look, if you need more Information just let me know!

[Sjors]

Hi Mick,

 

 

I have posted pictures of the models I have seen in Chatham.

Somewhere over there you will see pictures of the Endeavour

When you go to Model Ship World and look for museums you will found a topic that called " Chatham History Dockyard" 

Model Ship Clubs and Exhibitions and Events, Museums and Museum Ships

Maybe it helps you a little.

 

Edited September 10, 2013 by Sjors

[Micklen32]

Hi Mick,

 

 

I have posted pictures of the models I have seen in Chatham.

Somewhere over there you will see pictures of the Endeavour

When you go to Model Ship World and look for museums you will found a topic that called " Chatham History Dockyard" 

Model Ship Clubs and Exhibitions and Events, Museums and Museum Ships

Maybe it helps you a little.

Thanks a lot Sjors

I will take a good look as soon as I get a chance

 

Keep it up   

Mick

[Micklen32]

Hello Mick,

the CC drawings are showing four holes only. Attached the drawings from my AotS book, actually the Slots are the cat head sheaves. the pulley diameter, measured on the drawing (scale 3/8in = 1ft) is 8mm, width of the Slot 10mm. I don't have no idea how to convert this scale into something metric.

I have noticed your instructions asking to install a pulley (155) on the thumb cleat. This is not shown in my book.

 

have a look, if you need more Information just let me know!

Hmmmmmm  That is a tricky one

Am I right that in the first picture I just see a rope through that slot where in mine there is a pulley and then a pulley further up the davit

Or am I reading that wrong ????

As you say the bottom photo just shows 4 holes with some sort of groove between each pair

I presume   

Difficult

If we come up with a solid answer I will possibly change things

That or I will simply follow OcCre's instructions

Thanks a lot Edward

 

Keep it up   

Mick

[usedtosail]

Your instructions are showing you to drill four holes in the end of the cathead, straight down through the cathead. You then can make it look like two slots by connected the front and back holes at the top and bottom surfaces of the cathead. On the real ship this would be two parallel slots with sheaves in each one. Now, you could also do that if you had two very small sheaves and a way to cut the full slot, but that is a lot harder to get right. I have always used the four hole method to simulate these sheaves. Also, the holes should really be drilled at the angle that the cathead will be mounted on the model, so they are perpendicular to the water line. You can see this in the first photo from Edward. I have not done this on any of mine, but will on the next one. That sheave in the instructions (155) goes on the outside of the cathead in the wooden holder. I can't tell what the line that goes through it is used for.

[Micklen32]

Your instructions are showing you to drill four holes in the end of the cathead, straight down through the cathead. You then can make it look like two slots by connected the front and back holes at the top and bottom surfaces of the cathead. On the real ship this would be two parallel slots with sheaves in each one. Now, you could also do that if you had two very small sheaves and a way to cut the full slot, but that is a lot harder to get right. I have always used the four hole method to simulate these sheaves. Also, the holes should really be drilled at the angle that the cathead will be mounted on the model, so they are perpendicular to the water line. You can see this in the first photo from Edward. I have not done this on any of mine, but will on the next one. That sheave in the instructions (155) goes on the outside of the cathead in the wooden holder. I can't tell what the line that goes through it is used for.

A very comprehensive response

Thank you Tom

I think there are limits you have to place on yourself depending on your skill and needs

Now I know what is needed I will do my best to get it looking like that but I will never expect my build to approach museum quality by a long way

I am finding on this build that the quality of the wood is holding me back slightly as it is difficult to get it to a sufficiently good finish for staining or painting without reducing it's size quite a bit and when you only have 2 x 2mm to start with you can't do a lot

I will keep going with it as best I can with my limited skill and knowledge   

 

Keep it up   

Mick

[Micklen32]

So the painting is almost finished

While I was doing the hull I also did the hull on the lifeboat   

 

 

My paint finish is never as good as I would like it to be and I also think it could have had a lot more sanding, but I think it will suffice for what I need   

I have decided to do the gallant rail and the posts and columns on it black, as I have tried a small area and it does look a lot better

So that means a bit more masking up including some difficult bits on the inside of the gallant rail   

I am also in the midst of putting together the absolute loads of bits and bobs that sit on the hull

Strakes, doors, all sorts

That means I have plenty to do   

 

Keeping it up   

Mick

[UdoK]

Hi Mick,

I have attached again the first Picture of my previous post in a better Quality. I understand both of the cathead slots are equiped with pulleys, but no pulley on the thumb cleat as per your instructions.

The second Picture is the corresponding part of the 'English man of war'.

[usedtosail]

Mick, you are doing a great job. Do what you think is best. I for one am more pleased if I have something that looks good than something that is technically correct but looks bad.That said, I am always trying to do something better on the next one than the current one.

[Micklen32]

Going back to the bow davits or whatever they are called 

 

 

Is this what it should look like then?????????????

With no pulley in what I think is the sheave and a pulley in the end of it where the yellow is

And are there then holes at the sides of the pulley

I am really trying to get my head round this   

But don't forget my brain capacity is limited       

 

Trying to keep it up   

Mick