Glory of the Seas 1869 by Vladimir_Wairoa - FINISHED - 1:72 - medium clipper

[rwiederrich]

Several pics show the opening for the fairlead. Look at this image up close the open fair lead on the splash rail is evident. Next to the curved board used for the starboard running light.   It’s very noticeable on the second image too.  
If you also notice the spill gate in front of the channel…….. the splash rail terminates just in front of it.  See the aft fairlead right in front of the starboard running light board?   That added feature is mounted on the leading edge of the forecastle deck. 
 

compare images and you’ll see

Edited October 21, 2022 by rwiederrich

[ClipperFan]

On 10/13/2022 at 9:35 AM, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

many Small updates still coming. Skid beam davits etc. There will come boats.

 

Thanks for watching etc. 

Vladimir, 

With Rob's rapid production pace, it's easy to forget there's another just as beautifully crafted model vessel waiting in the wings, so to speak. These latest hull images truly demonstrate your artisan level of craftsmanship. Lovely details like your reproduction of her wrought iron  anchor hawsehole contribute to her authenticity.

It's also a magnificent tribute to Donald McKay's spectacular Clipper Ship as well. I particularly appreciate the dead on view of your replica's hull. If it weren't for the background you could almost believe it was the real vessel herself.

[ClipperFan]

On 10/21/2022 at 10:58 AM, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Works in  dockyard at Full speed. I just say im quite shocked how much must be rail stanchions around mizzen mast tilt inwards for shrouds to come straight. Its slow tedious proces with many curvatures and Angles to watch....Im not good ať building houses so i decided to throw away way bad toyish main deck house with imperfections and will build new one maybe over christmas.  Seems like my rigging will be postponed to next year ( probably if not later, byť untill im 100 percent Happy with her body i wont proceed:) ...All Made installments around masts and working stuff like púmp and houses will now be properly built Down  into final  floor. 

 

From Work ongoing..main deck flooring begun....hardest part on stbd side done. 

 

 

Vladimir,

Your meticulous attention to the smallest deck details is commendable. I'm particularly impressed with the reworking of the deck fairing to incorporate an authentic ship's carpentry joinery as her hull narrows. Very impressive.

[ClipperFan]

23 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Several pics show the opening for the fairlead. Look at this image up close the open fair lead on the splash rail is evident. Next to the curved board used for the starboard running light.   It’s very noticeable on the second image too.  
If you also notice the spill gate in front of the channel…….. the splash rail terminates just in front of it.  See the aft fairlead right in front of the starboard running light board?   That added feature is mounted on the leading edge of the forecastle deck. 
 

compare images and you’ll see

Vladimir,

I have the same prow image where the foremast has been edited down to give a closer view of the forecastle. This makes it easier to see the 3rd fairlead cut out on the starboard side. Conversely, there's no fairlead cut out any further back. This is conclusive photographic proof of Rob's statement about the accurate location of the 3rd fairlead. 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

My Lack of patience and skill determinates me being rather repairman than modeler  ouch

 

Updates. 

AS template i used bw photo with child, with ultimate goal mimic groove in underrof paneling. It IS 0.3 mm think. Heck. Im quite satisfied with outcome. But i hate painting. Ľudia Rob with event amaller scale. My goodness. 

Some elements of process are shown i changed fairlead position AS part of fcastle now. Funny thing is IT was there originally. I Dubno why i changed IT. So 3 changed. But it Can be done so neatly  no  one would Guess IT was there. 

Doors still missing on house. Chainplates colored black. Bumkins were Made into poop deck. Steven rail was tilted inward around mizzen plates.  

 

next is to cut door openings and  make doors, securing boats anchors  and finish flooring. Rechecked height of fcastle deck and house in main deck. All Well. 

 

Was SMall Kitchen house part of original installation? If not i will omit it its removed while  flooring continue. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

On 10/22/2022 at 6:02 PM, ClipperFan said:

Vladimir, 

With Rob's rapid production pace, it's easy to forget there's another just as beautifully crafted model vessel waiting in the wings, so to speak. These latest hull images truly demonstrate your artisan level of craftsmanship. Lovely details like your reproduction of her wrought iron  anchor hawsehole contribute to her authenticity.

It's also a magnificent tribute to Donald McKay's spectacular Clipper Ship as well. I particularly appreciate the dead on view of your replica's hull. If it weren't for the background you could almost believe it was the real vessel herself.

Thanks a milion Rich. Truth is im mediocre lousy aprentice repaing again and again. But humbly flattered. Im Happy when your aprove

[ClipperFan]

46 minutes ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Thanks a milion Rich. Truth is im mediocre lousy aprentice repaing again and again. But humbly flattered. Im Happy when your aprove

Vladimir,

Don't be so hard on yourself. You, my friend are not mediocre or by any means a lousy apprentice. If it hadn't been for your brilliant cgi bulkhead input, who know where Rob would be at? The minutia you're dealing with has a lot to do with paying close attention to numerous details. Details like those stern bumpkins extend out much further beyond the deck than your picture seems to display. To answer your other question, when these vessels were out to sea for months, it was common practice to erect small houses, like chicken coops over their hatches, so your small kitchen house would be correct. I particularly appreciate your excellent reworking of the stern rails and you did a very clean job of relocating that annoying 3rd fairlead. In addition, you're doing an excellent job on that longhouse behind the foremast. From Rob's observance, the main fife rail needs to be shortened to end just after the main pump wheels. My only other issue is that the rear coach house companion height be adjusted so that the turned stanchion rail comfortably intersects it, as demonstrated in my rear coach house elevation. Don't be discouraged, I'm sure Rob would agree, you're doing excellent work!

[BANYAN]

Ditto Rich's encouragement Vladimir, as a matter of fact your drive to redo rather than accept shows that you are going in the right direction (you wouldn't want to seem my redo bin   ).

 

cheers

 

Pat

[rwiederrich]

Glad……wonderful modifications.  Every correction looks splendid. Great job. 
 

Rob

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Thanks folks you are so generous to me. 

Well, I admit that precise  measurement IS key aspect of this work regardless quality or aesthetics of work. Speaking of, even 2 milimetre change of object dramatically affects entire neighbourging Area, or distorts overal shape aesthetics and more IT Can ruin years of precise work not mentioning intention of real builder of original vessel. 

 

Some continuation but i am about to rest now for 3 or so weeks as my Woody suplier postponed me with floor continuation and i dont want to mix batches.  I will try to make few Iron elements  so to speak - rudder boats,Iron eyes, cleats..working on Iron pulleys assembling setving machine will také me tíme etc....so i will Keep myself just Mildly busy.  But finally no more making dust!etc, but thats IT most likely. 

By now I  hlave All  blocks and ropes and chains list completed and its quite a bunch I Can tell. 

 

Surprising - or not so múch ? I opted definitely fór version without sails, and without All leeches and buntlines and their blocks - ...- so IT will be slightly ommited of thouse countless yards. Pretty much similar way  as EdT modeled his young america. Therefore i intend to build masts atop from the bottom Raiaing one by one. 

I intend to try each element AS possible meaning setving ropes etc. Will see how it will go. 

This decision put some ease to my mind regarding difficulty and complexity , space between lanyards etc. 

Before christmass I should have All ropes at disposal. .those are the plans. 

 

AS to deck finishing, I decided to ditch Kitchen Coop Small house, for two

 reason, first i dont like IT second  now back ending on Bug cabin with twoo Doors will be visible and overal place on deck will not be such busy. 

So Once I have planks i will finish floor assemble fife rails ( however im not sure ill be able to shorten main one; will see) ...

 

And than rigging Could begin

 

Thank you All fór support comments advice etc. 

 

Few pics. 

I had to round hopuse roof .straight flat  roof i first intended to use was simply not authentic and i tore IT Down making round. You Can see both on pics now.  IT was quite work.  fun. 

Top with planks still missing but it will have to wait. 

Its visible from previous pics that i Also had to widen house by staggering 5 milimeters !  AS i previously measured boot of the house nôt house itself. So according proper size and you Can now  observe how big meaning fat and rather wider than tall those structure was occupying big portion of deck - providing comfortable space to crew. 

from pic takej abaft of main deck house racing forward you Could see similar view AS in the book with the Boh from vety behind nie forecastle looks like being same height AS of house. Which IS misleading because deck raises towards front. In reality forecastle IS still amaller but IT its Raiaing point IS indeed Higher up so its top  more less the level of rooftops if the house.

 

im Happy only now... even some aesthetics elements got injury i will probably leave Doors natural, Its not big deal to me. 

after fcastle properly heightened to 25 MM, and cabin ( originál wife 18 ft- 1:72 =76mm) i believe All crucial elements are nie of Authentic size and my rebuild ends with planking míne deck to reach continuation point where I stopped. - rigging. 

 

Oh I installed few belaying pins....

Thanks fór watching i will finally have tíme to look to others work to get amused

 

V. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 27, 2022 by Vladimir_Wairoa
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[rwiederrich]

Wonderful rework Vlad.  I didn't realize truly how large the main cabin was on your model...but by seeing it in your hand....its quite larger then the one on my smaller version....almost 2.5 times larger.

 

While I am on the subject and you are in the throws of remodel.  I hate to bring this up now...but Glory's main cabin aft doors where large sliding and swinging doors.  They opened up the aft cabin where the steam donkey engine was housed.  The doors were more like large barn doors that rolled and then could swing open and out like normal doors.  The image you posted of the boy on the boy cabin....shows the port door swung open.  But those doors are larger then a normal door.  there were probably more then just 2 doors...there might have been 4 and they rolled in and along the side of one another to open up the aft cabin wall.

I will post this picture of those doors and if you study it long enough, you will see, they are not regular doors....but are possibly similar to pocket doors, with he ability to swing out independently like normal doors if you only needed to access the space.  Like in the picture you posted of the boy.

 

Lastly....not to cause trouble, but, there are only three boat skids and those skids do not rest entirely upon the house roof.  They have spillways cut out on each end to permit water to easily flow and this also allows for the offset of the edge molding.  You'll see clearly in the image.

 

Rob

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

2 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Wonderful rework Vlad.  I didn't realize truly how large the main cabin was on your model...but by seeing it in your hand....its quite larger then the one on my smaller version....almost 2.5 times larger.

 

While I am on the subject and you are in the throws of remodel.  I hate to bring this up now...but Glory's main cabin aft doors where large sliding and swinging doors.  They opened up the aft cabin where the steam donkey engine was housed.  The doors were more like large barn doors that rolled and then could swing open and out like normal doors.  The image you posted of the boy on the boy cabin....shows the port door swung open.  But those doors are larger then a normal door.  there were probably more then just 2 doors...there might have been 4 and they rolled in and along the side of one another to open up the aft cabin wall.

I will post this picture of those doors and if you study it long enough, you will see, they are not regular doors....but are possibly similar to pocket doors, with he ability to swing out independently like normal doors if you only needed to access the space.  Like in the picture you posted of the boy.

 

Lastly....not to cause trouble, but, there are only three boat skids and those skids do not rest entirely upon the house roof.  They have spillways cut out on each end to permit water to easily flow and this also allows for the offset of the edge molding.  You'll see clearly in the image.

 

Rob

Its all fine and interesting, Thanks for pics and comment Rob. Yeah I see those skids. for this reason i plan corner beam of roof to step out and will try to remodel those skids.  as for sliding doors of that sort. yeah ouch hm... hm too late but.i guess ..lets leave something for next generations :)) or ? is there something you dont know yet of that ship Rob? :)) just kidding...I relied on this pic. IS that photo misleading or cabin rebuilt after some time?  V. 

Edited October 27, 2022 by Vladimir_Wairoa
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[rwiederrich]

No that image is not misleading, if you understand the intent and action of the doors.  Other images show the doors slidden to the side and fully open.

The doors are large enough to access and remove the 5hp steam engine that was housed within.  2 separate man doors would not accommodate these practices.  the open door is partly open....giving the illusion it is a much narrower door....when in fact it is not.

 

With all that said...feel no pressure to redo anything at my suggestion.  You've been at that already, and very nicely to boot.

 

Rob

[archjofo]

Hello , 
very nice work, and good research.

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

3 hours ago, archjofo said:

Hello , 
very nice work, and good research.

Thank you ! 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

I managed to shorten mainfife rail without remodeling it. ...

 

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

20 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

No that image is not misleading, if you understand the intent and action of the doors.  Other images show the doors slidden to the side and fully open.

The doors are large enough to access and remove the 5hp steam engine that was housed within.  2 separate man doors would not accommodate these practices.  the open door is partly open....giving the illusion it is a much narrower door....when in fact it is not.

 

With all that said...feel no pressure to redo anything at my suggestion.  You've been at that already, and very nicely to boot.

 

Rob

Rob, I found this in Michaels book. If revisions took place in 1872, I model her as of 1869 meaning im still in the game :)) 

[rwiederrich]

40 minutes ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Rob, I found this in Michaels book. If revisions took place in 1872, I model her as of 1869 meaning im still in the game :)) 

Good call Vlad.  I was a bit confused....because you had added the chicken coop and that too was a later addition.....so I wasn't sure what time frame you were building her.  Plus you said you were using the cabin boy picture as your example.  Now I truly see you are traveling the way I went initially and building her like my original version...*Totally* original.

You're going to have quite an open deck.  There are little to no images of her original deck layout to model from.  However, the image of her deck, looking forward with the second floor being added to her main house is probably the best *Open* deck image we are afforded.

 

Forgive my overstep.

 

Rob

Edited October 28, 2022 by rwiederrich

[rwiederrich]

2 hours ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

I managed to shorten mainfife rail without remodeling it. ...

 

 

The fife rail reduction looks super....surely closer to the prototype.  Good work Vlad...  Question: how are you building her mast boots and installing them?  Tricky business.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

Look how open this deck is.  The open hatch (Where the chicken coop would sit) is your only bit of furniture.  And no *boys cabin*

 

I wish a clearer version of this image could be found.

 

 

Rob

Edited October 28, 2022 by rwiederrich

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

7 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Look how open this deck is.  The open hatch (Where the chicken coop would sit) is your only bit of furniture.  And no *boys cabin*

 

I wish a clearer version of this image could be found.

 

 

Rob

Rob, as far as them boots. Yeah trickiest stuff. 

If i remember correctly I destroyed few. 

Hard Wood like boxwood would be bulletproof but I managed with soft one, IT gets sanded easier- baswood. I drew circle around coin making outer shape than cut IT by half to get 2 halfcircles....sanded IT. 

 

After i Guess i drilled tiny holes inside along inner circle shape.

Than I stuck profile into tape to ensure iT wont break and glued sandpaper on round Stick in diameter of inner circle and sanded inner  very gentlyjust rounding Stick nôt pushing múch. After few attempts seems IT Worked. ...

Hope makes sense. Still not perfect but usable....:) V. 

 

 

 

[rwiederrich]

Like I said tricky stuff.   
 

I used lite cured acrylic. 
 

Wile pliable, I formed it around the mast and then removed it gently and then cured it.  After it was hard, I ground it to the desired shape and form. 

Painted it and then the tricky part…….. I glued it in place and the mast at the same time in/to the hull/deck. The fife rail had to be installed by way of running it up the mast first, then glueing the mast and boot down.   While the mast was setting, I brought down the fife rail and positioned it in place and glued it down 

 

All these pieces had to be fitted and glued down in sequence.  All the internal sheet blocks and their eye bolts had to be installed first, before all this work could be done.  Things are tight, much care had to be taken to keep everything balanced and not interfering with everything else.   
 

Your method looks good and advantageous. Good job. 
 

Rob

Edited October 29, 2022 by rwiederrich

[BANYAN]

Great process Rob, I have been mucking around trying to form my 'boots' and having a lot of problems due to the severe rake of Victoria's masts.  I also have to make some boom rests/shoulders on the mast with the same angle/orientation - I will give sculpting them a go I think.

 

Nice work on your boots etc Vladimir, you offer an alternate method to consider but I think with 15 degrees of rake on the mizen, the moulding may be the better option to try first.  Your build is coming on very nicely.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[rwiederrich]

3 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Great process Rob, I have been mucking around trying to form my 'boots' and having a lot of problems due to the severe rake of Victoria's masts.  I also have to make some boom rests/shoulders on the mast with the same angle/orientation - I will give sculpting them a go I think.

 

Nice work on your boots etc Vladimir, you offer an alternate method to consider but I think with 15 degrees of rake on the mizen, the moulding may be the better option to try first.  Your build is coming on very nicely.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Yeah Pat…… if you can come by some sculptamould material, I’d try that.

 

My process used dental lab material….not available to the average  modeler.  Plus you need an expensive light curing unit.  
 

Apart from that……the fabrication method and contouring would be the same.

 

Let me know how it works out, if you will. 
 

Rob

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Gentlemen, 

Thanks for comments. Interesting approach Rob. You know I hlave experienced only with wood never thought of some composite alternative but  sure it opens possibilities. 

 

As far as rigging preparations id like to ask for advice you more experienced riggers

 

With some calculations I came to conclusion that I will have to choose between two options. 

Either to stay true to blocks size or try to say truer to rope thickness....and therefore oversize blocks ( due tiny block holes )

 

unfortunately its clear that both cannot be accomplished, As holes of tiny blocks are limited to allow very tiny ropes. Therefore i have to pick direction. 

 

 

I Remember when rigging mammoth cutty sark in 1:24  sure it was different. But now totally different. I suppose I lean towards blocks accuracy as oversized blocks would ruin natural Elegant  apearance of scale consistency around spars, deck, masts etc...much more than slightly thinner rope would. I suppose you may agree with this. 

 

however i intend to oversize tiny bit shrounds blocks fór sake of shrouds AS those are hell of a thick ropes, and to correspondence to that walking ropes are tiny. 

 

I hlave some pics of fantastic Authentic looking wallnut blocks i am about to use. 

But there IS múch of a calculation fór ropes to adjust...AS holes of 2 mm blocks are  tiny. hmm . But in my scale IT would be free of them onizzen mast. Smallest block would be approx 3 mm of size. 

 

Thanks for any thought..

 

 

 

 

Edited October 30, 2022 by Vladimir_Wairoa
Add

[ClipperFan]

23 hours ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Gentlemen, 

Thanks for comments. Interesting approach Rob. You know I hlave experienced only with wood never thought of some composite alternative but  sure it opens possibilities. 

 

As far as rigging preparations id like to ask for advice you more experienced riggers

 

With some calculations I came to conclusion that I will have to choose between two options. 

Either to stay true to blocks size or try to say truer to rope thickness....and therefore oversize blocks ( due tiny block holes )

 

unfortunately its clear that both cannot be accomplished, As holes of tiny blocks are limited to allow very tiny ropes. Therefore i have to pick direction. 

 

 

I Remember when rigging mammoth cutty sark in 1:24  sure it was different. But now totally different. I suppose I lean towards blocks accuracy as oversized blocks would ruin natural Elegant  apearance of scale consistency around spars, deck, masts etc...much more than slightly thinner rope would. I suppose you may agree with this. 

 

however i intend to oversize tiny bit shrounds blocks fór sake of shrouds AS those are hell of a thick ropes, and to correspondence to that walking ropes are tiny. 

 

I hlave some pics of fantastic Authentic looking wallnut blocks i am about to use. 

But there IS múch of a calculation fór ropes to adjust...AS holes of 2 mm blocks are  tiny. hmm . But in my scale IT would be free of them onizzen mast. Smallest block would be approx 3 mm of size. 

 

Thanks for any thought..

 

 

 

 

Vladimir, 

Most observers won't notice undersized rigging as quickly as they would oversized blocks and tackles. I agree with your evaluation to stick to scale with block sizes. As an allternative to thread, would fishing line or possibly thin guage wire work as an alternative? Rob or other veteran modelers might have some helpful insights.

[ClipperFan]

On 10/28/2022 at 4:57 PM, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Rob, as far as them boots. Yeah trickiest stuff. 

If i remember correctly I destroyed few. 

Hard Wood like boxwood would be bulletproof but I managed with soft one, IT gets sanded easier- baswood. I drew circle around coin making outer shape than cut IT by half to get 2 halfcircles....sanded IT. 

 

After i Guess i drilled tiny holes inside along inner circle shape.

Than I stuck profile into tape to ensure iT wont break and glued sandpaper on round Stick in diameter of inner circle and sanded inner  very gentlyjust rounding Stick nôt pushing múch. After few attempts seems IT Worked. ...

Hope makes sense. Still not perfect but usable....:) V. 

 

 

 

 Vladimir, 

That's very elegant work on the boot. If you don't mind my asking, why cut this in half? Since the masts aren't already permanently mounted yet, couldn't you just slide them in one piece and just glue them down once masts are installed? Just wondering.

[ClipperFan]

On 10/28/2022 at 8:50 AM, rwiederrich said:

Look how open this deck is.  The open hatch (Where the chicken coop would sit) is your only bit of furniture.  And no *boys cabin*

 

I wish a clearer version of this image could be found.

 

 

Rob

Rob,

I asked Mike for sharper images of these particular scenes. He didn't have anything better but said if he does come across them, he'll gladly share them. I agree that, as originally designed, Glory of the Seas had a much simpler deck scheme with far more open spaces. It will be fascinating to see how the two compare once both are completed.

[ClipperFan]

On 10/28/2022 at 8:04 AM, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Rob, I found this in Michaels book. If revisions took place in 1872, I model her as of 1869 meaning im still in the game :)) 

Vladimir, 

I applaud yourr insight in catching the subtle, nearly unnoticeable curvature of the deck house roofs. As Rob pointed out, the boat skids have slight cut outs on each side to clear the moulding which surrounds both the main house and rear coach house. Great work on your fore deck house! It is truly an impressive size and you have captured it vey nicely.

[ClipperFan]

On 10/28/2022 at 6:20 AM, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

I managed to shorten mainfife rail without remodeling it. ...

 

 

Vladimir, 

Nice work revising your main fife rail, it now looks true to scale. Great job!