USF Constitution by cookster - Model Shipways - kitbashed to 1812

[rafine]

Beautifully done Wes. Really neat and precise.

 

Bob

[mobbsie]

Precision work at it's best Wes, congrats on a fine display of skill.

 

mobbsie

[cookster]

Thanks everyone!

 

Main hatch coaming is finished.

 

A started on the deck planking between the main hatch and next coaming as before.  I placed a steel rule on the centerline using the stops as a guide, and since the mast hole had to be clear I added another steel rule to locate the other side.

 

I  glued half the section together, cut out the mast hole, fitted it, trimmed each end, trued it up and glued it down.

 

 

I forgot to mention earlier I'm pre-staining my planks.  They're stuck to a piece of blue painters tape.  The color here looks a little redder than it actually is, the color in the planking pics is about right.  The color is slightly "dirty" without being to dark.  I'ts not prototypical but I really like the color.

[cookster]

Oh, and I must add about the main hatch, this isn't correct for 1812.  It should be open an coaming to below.  I actually considered abandoning the one I made and making a new "correct" one, but the missing deck guns below would show and there's no way I can install (especially rig) them now.  So, I'll have to live with this.  

 

I AM going to leave a few of the companionway grates out, maybe all 4 (they go in the four corners), install some deck planking on the gun deck (but still no guns  ) and make and install some ladders to the gun deck.

 

I'm also going to scratch build the skylight over the ward room, the the MS model only has a hatch coaming and grate there (which I guess is how she sits today)

OK edit here.  NO SKYLIGHTS  Thanks to Evan (Force9) for pointing out there were no skylights in 1812 so I will not add them.

Edited November 13, 2013 by cookster

[Geoff Matson]

The main hatch turned out great. Nice job on adding details that could have been left out. I just did not feel good about making it that way, but that was a few years back, now maybe I would give it try.   You are going to have a beautiful Conny when you are done.

[augie]

I probably missed it Wes but what wood/stain are you using for the deck?  The contrast with the hatch structures is gorgeous.

[cookster]

Thanks Geoff.  I was a little worried about cutting the grates apart, but it was worth it in the end.  The worst part about building the main hatch that caused me the most concern was making the hatch openings fit the existing grates.  That's why I chose to only butt joint the cross beams (except the middle and ends) so I could make them fit the grates without having to worry about cutting lap joints in the right places.  The way this should've been done was to make the coaming grate openings first, then make the grates to fit.  But making those grates from scratch was not in my plan!

 

Augie, you didn't miss it.  I forgot to mention what stain I used, then I decided to wait and see if anyone noticed...

The deck planking is boxwood.  I love it!

I tried 3 different stain colors, I think I still have the pic somewhere of the 3.  Anyway this is minwax Cherry stain.  This is my favorite stain, I've used it on a lot of the furniture I've built.  I thought for sure it would be too dark so I almost didn't try it, but since the boxwood grain is so tight it absorbs very little of the stain.  The cherry gave me just the amount of the "dirty" color I wanted without being too dark, red or orange.  The other 2 colors I tried  were pecan and colonial maple, but they came out to yellow/orange for the effect I wanted.

Edited November 12, 2013 by cookster

[augie]

Thanks Wes.  Boxwood/cherry --- sure looks nice.  GREAT choice.

[Force9]

Wes -

 

For whatever it is worth... The 1812 Constitution would NOT have had a skylight.  Research by Tyrone Martin suggests that the ship didn't have any skylight until much later in her career.

 

Your build is terrific - very crisp detail!

 

Evan

[HIPEXEC]

Your wood working is amazing!

[cookster]

Thanks Evan for the compliment and advice!

 

So on the skylight, I thought I had seen in another source(s) somewhere there were skylights over both the ward room and captain's cabin...  I did look at the Hull model last night and didn't see it there, that's where I thought I had saw it.   I'll accept your knowledge on this for sure.  I assume this also means no skylight over the captain's cabin either...  Well darn, I was kind's looking forward to building them.

 

The MS model has 3 coamings/hatches one behind another (more or less) behind the main mast.  The front one I modeled, the second one was going to be the ward room skylight which now I guess will be a hatch coaming and the third was the odd shaped one with the small coaming attached to the back of it - I know this one is wrong and should be just another rectangular hatch coaming.  Does this sound right to you?  

I'm at work and can't get you pics of what I mean but I can when I get home if you need.

 

Thanks again for the info!   Oh and I'll look for info from Tyrone Martin.

[j21896]

Hi Wes,

 

I just caught on with your build, and everything about it is absolutely beautiful!  The hull planking, the deck planking (love that color), and your hatch coamings are the best I've ever seen!

 

Looking forward to following along!

 

Cheers,

Robert

[cookster]

Thanks again Rich - hope you Conny is treating you well.

 

Wow Robert, thank you!  I will check out your Mars build!

Edited November 12, 2013 by cookster

[Force9]

Wes -

 

Apparently the first skylight of any type didn't appear until 1847 (according to written evidence):

 

http://www.history.navy.mil/USSCTour/manuals/ConstitutionSkylight.pdf

 

I'm certain you'll find other goodies to utilize your terrific skills to create/enhance!

 

I know that a small hatch was added just forward of the helm prior to the war to facilitate better communication down to the gun deck.  Otherwise the Hull model might be the best guide for the hatch layout circa 1812.  The drawings of the President done after her capture could help, but would not be definitive.  There are also deck drawings of United States by Charles Ware that might be representative.

 

Good stuff!

 

EG

[cookster]

Thanks Evan, and I have been to that Conny virtual tour site but glossed right over the skylights.... Dopey me 

 

I looked at my revell model when I got home and I think I'll build the double hatch coming that's behind the capstan, and the small hatch at the helm between the Binnacles you mentioned....  I think the hull model will support that as well, I'll take a look.

 

Thanks again for all you input!!  With your knowledge and approval I'll be that much closer to being as accurate as I can - except for the darn main hatch.  But that ship (pun intended) has already sailed....

[cookster]

Next hatch decision is whether to use a single hatch or a dual hatch like the Revell model.  I kind'a like the dual so maybe I'll go with that.

 

Single (with have to make another coaming though)

 

Dual

 

[cookster]

Added planking at the rear of the deck including the first half of the mizzen mast section.

I made the plank section for the other side of the main mast so I can cut out second half of the mast hole (as I did with the fore mast)

At the front of the main hatch I cut out the ply bulkhead uprights so I could add planking on the false gundeck section where I plan to leave the hatch grates out and install ladders.

Started making the gundeck planking section.

 

Next I have to make the rest of the coamings so I can continue planking.

[augie]

Could you kindly cut down on the number of photos you post?  If I keep sitting here looking at the precision of your work I'll never get a darned thing done.

 

NICE    

[cookster]

Augie,what can I say to that?  Ummm...... no.

 

In all seriousness though, I'm flattered my all the comments but there are people on here who's precision I'll never match!

Edited November 17, 2013 by cookster

[cookster]

Augie, just for you...  If it distracts you don't look

Still have to add the molding around the edge, I'll be sure and post pics of that too!!

 

The Little Coaming that Wes built

 

[augie]

I see you also have the 2" diameter dime.

[cookster]

Augie, now that made me LOL!

[cookster]

Since Augie is distracted by pictures, I'll show how I put the molding on the little Coaming.

 

I beveled the edge with a sanding block.

 

I glued on the first side, ran long on both sides.

Then I glude on the second side.

Trimed the long edge with a kinfe blade, then sanded it flush with the true sander.

I used a sanding block to bevel the corner sticking out.

Added the other 2 sides, trimed and sanded as before.

 

Finished

 

 

[WackoWolf]

Very nice, they are nice and sharp. Excellent work. Keep the pictures coming.

[Kenneth Powell]

Excellent tutorial. Keep it up.

[rafine]

Very nicely done detail Wes.

 

Bob

[Geoff Matson]

Looking real good Wes. Putting in the extra details will pay off later on.

[Alexi]

Wes,

Great to see you are going to leave some of the main hatch open.  I am also planning on leaving the hatch open and making fully rigged guns (for those that will be seen). In planning it I ran into a note on the plans that states the height of the bulkheads in the kit are equal with what would be the top of the gundeck planks.  So, if I plank over the stock bulkheads, the gundeck will be about 1/16th too high - which will mess up the relationship between the guns and the gunports.  

 

I suppose it doesn't matter if you are using the dummy guns supplied in the kit, but I was wondering if you agree with my interpretation of the plans and this problem?

 

I have been toying with the idea of removing 1/16th of wood from each of the bulkheads and center keel, but haven't committed to this bit of surgery yet.

[cookster]

Thanks for the kind comments everyone!

 

Alexi, I haven't looked for that specific note on the plans, I will look for it.  I also have the Conny AOTS book, I'll look for any references there.

 

Removing 1/16 from the bulkeads would be tad tricky, but should be possible if you take your time.  You'll have to remove the center supports and crossbeams anyway, so cutting that amount off with a knife (probably how I'd do it) or razor saw should be possible, especially if you haven't installed the bulkheads yet.

 

Another option you might consider is making up for some, if not all, of the height mismatch wit your gun carriages..  If you scratchbuild them you'll be free to do as you want.  Kit supplied ones could be tweaked some....

 

Good luck!

Edited November 22, 2013 by cookster

[Alexi]

Thanks, Wes.  I think I'll probably just take off a small amount of wood by fairing the top of the bulkheads, use thinner planks for the gun deck (1/32), and make any other adjustment necessary in the construction of the gun carriages - as you suggest.  We'll see how it goes.