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USF Constitution by cookster - Model Shipways - kitbashed to 1812


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OK, here's goes nothing.

I'm going to attempt to model the 1812'ish transom.  I have the Revell Conny 1/96 model that I'm using as a reference.  I don't have any plans of the 1812 Conny transom, not even sure if any exist?  I realize this WILL NOT be a faithful historic reproduction but it should represent the "spirit" of the look of the 1812 transom.  The Corne painting shows 6 light transom windows instead of the 4 light in the Revell model, which from what I've read is based on the Isacc Hull model.  But, I like the 6 light version better myself.

I've made a dwg based on the Revell transom, modified to fit the transom of the MS kit and I think in spirt it is close.  All the details aren't there, just enough to get the idea.

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I plan on building the windows out of styrene.  I already have the 6 light windows and am building a test mockup now. When I have something worth showing I will.

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Couple picks of my transom mockup.  I had planned for this to be a test, but I may actually wind up using this one.  I am going to cast the column caps though, they're a pain to make and i need 7 of them.  I made two sizes, the big one was too big so I made a smaller one and I think it's about right.  I also wound up using 6 over 6 windows, the 6 lite windows I tried didn't work out like I wanted.

 

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These of course are not painted.  I'm going to black out inside the windows.

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Thanks Geoff. I know I'm sticking my neck out, as someone more knowledgeable than me is bound to come along and point out my errors.  But hey, I said it was in the "spirit" of 1812, right?

 

Been watching your build, hope I can get mine look as good as yours.  Might as well ask, what black paint did you use, enamel or acryic?  I'm partial to enamels, seems most everyone on here likes acryilcs.  And my favorite paint, Floquil, is going away.  Darn....

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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I guess my next decision is whether to cut in the bridle ports or not.  They didn't exist until after Isacc Hull turned over command after the 1812 battle against Guirrerre,   So I guess my logic could be my model represents the era pre-1812 retrofit.  Which is probably mostly true.

 

Also, I need to credit Force9 and his build http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/270-uss-constitution-by-force9-revell-plastic-revisiting-the-classic-196-kit/ for supplying a lot of wonderful historical info.

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Looking good! You have some innovative ways of doing things. I'll get back to work on mine one of these days.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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Wes

 

I used a brush to apply the paint. I aways thin it with their thinner and use several coats. I was thinking about spraying the model, but with the size I would have probably need a car spry booth :D

Geoff

NRG member #2666
Current build : USS Constitution

 

Finished builds: Armed Virginia Sloop (in gallery)

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Been installing and planking down to the lower gunport sills.  I found out during this I put the transom extension in the wrong location!  I looked at this before I installed it more times than I care to count and I STILL put it in the wrong place  ARGH!!...  So I just glued a filler piece in and will reshape it.

 

Anyway, here's my method for installing the gunport sill.  I cut 2 pieces of styrene to use as gauges.  Wood wouldn't have stood up to repeated use.  It also helps to set sill parallel to the lintel.

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Starboard side planked and sanded.  I may sand some more before I start finishing.  Also, I'm really glad I'm painting this as leaving the basswood natural (or stained) would bug me big time.  The color variations are so extreme!  It's tedious enough sorting for size, but adding in color also would make me pull my hair out...

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Still working on the port side.  Really getting tired of building and planking gun ports. :blink: Ready to move onto something else!

post-5597-0-73444300-1377483398_thumb.jpg

 

 

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Love your build sir ! I will follow anxiously as this is my next build and I can't wait to get to it, till then ill follow the rest of the Connie club

Eric

 

Current build(s) ;

AL San Francisco II

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/862-san-francisco-2-by-eric-al-190-sport29652/

 

MS Rattlesnake

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/868-rattlesnake-by-eric-model-shipways-164-sport29652/page-2

 

Sitting on the shelf : MS Constitution, MS Sultana,

 

Wish List : MS Essex, Confederacy, and Syren, and a Victory kit by someone ?

 

"80% of the time it works every time."

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Last week was my 50th Birthday and I'm still trying to decide which kit I want as my "gift to me".  I know I don't *need* another kit, but heck you only turn 50 once, right!  I've been waffling between the Confederacy and the Essex.  I really want the Essex, but Expo hasn't offered a discount yet and I missed the pre-order :(, and Confed has a nice discount right now that's really tempting.  I honestly don't need both, but since when has that stopped me? ;)

 

As the Confed build logs pop up and I see what folks are doing with it, plus it's larger scale, it's starting to pull me in.  I already see a few things I'd like to do a tad differently that might interest you folks.  I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and order it now.  Then, get the Essex for Christmas.  Hopefully by then Sam will be well on his way with the masting plan for her.

 

Then my next 5+ years of ship modeling will be mapped out...  Until Sam or Chuck comes out with something else...  I will need an English vessel(s) for my US Navy fleet to shoot at after all!   

:pirate41:

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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  • 2 weeks later...

On to the transom.  I'm still figuring out how I want to build the transom, but I am able to go ahead and start planking and fixing my errors on the transom extensions.

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Front view before I started planking the wales.

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Edited by cookster

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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I bought the Constitution ATOS book, and it is loaded with drawings.  It has several takes on possible stern details from different years.  So, I revised my plan to more match the Corne painting.  Again it's not a historic match, but does get the idea across.  Now I gotta build a mockup...

 

Oh and I realize I have to add\modify the taffrail (guess that's the right term) but that won't be too bad.

 

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Edited by cookster

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Planking the port Wales.

post-5597-0-04779000-1378869503_thumb.jpg

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I bought some of these metal plank clamps and haven't used them yet.  Finally found a use, drilling a hole into the filler block is not as bad as drilling into the bulkheads.  They make clamping the wet plank around a compound curve easy.  I clamped the counter planks in place and let them dry, then removed the clamps, final shaped the plank and glued it on (without the clamp of course)

post-5597-0-04030100-1378869772_thumb.jpg

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Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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What did you use to maintain a consistent gun port lip ? Your craftsmanship is top notch! Can't wait to see how your transom turns out

Eric

 

Current build(s) ;

AL San Francisco II

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/862-san-francisco-2-by-eric-al-190-sport29652/

 

MS Rattlesnake

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/868-rattlesnake-by-eric-model-shipways-164-sport29652/page-2

 

Sitting on the shelf : MS Constitution, MS Sultana,

 

Wish List : MS Essex, Confederacy, and Syren, and a Victory kit by someone ?

 

"80% of the time it works every time."

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Gun port lip? I assume you mean the 1/32 lip around the gunports.  I mentioned in earlier posts how tedious I found the gun ports to be, that was in part due to trying to keep the ports consistent.

By the time I started planking around the gunports I had learned to measure the widths of all the planks with a pair of calipers (due to the plank widths varying by as much as 10 thousandths)  to keep planks on the same row the same width. Butting a .125 plank to a .130 (for example) causes a gap in the next row and throws off the run of the plank (shear line? )  Stuff like that drives me crazy!

Anyway, I did I pretty much like Bob Hunts practicum describes.  Instead of measuring down 1/2",  I pre-selected, then used the actual planks to get this measurement.  Then added 1/32 for the bottom of the lintel which forms the upper lip.  Then I cut 2 pieces of styrene to use as a gauge for the lower sill, after I again used the actual planks and subtracted 1/32 to get the length.  This also meant I had to mark and keep track of what plank went where.  Tedious? yes...  You can probably see some pencil marking on planks here and there, that's why.

 

For the sides of the ports I installed the first side as per plans, then measured over for the location of the other side.  When planking I used the gun port lids for the final fit of each plank.  I cut each plank a little long then sanded to final length with a sanding block, which also trued up the plank ends.  Very tedious and time consuming, and I know of a couple ports that aren't as good as I'd like, but i'm not telling which ones!  ;)   In all I think they came out OK.

Hope this answers your question.

 

Here's the styrene gauges.  

post-5597-0-96266400-1378876105_thumb.jpg

 

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Thanks for the response I should have read your whole log (sorry). Wish it was my birthday, lucky man your wife must really love you.

Eric

 

Current build(s) ;

AL San Francisco II

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/862-san-francisco-2-by-eric-al-190-sport29652/

 

MS Rattlesnake

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/868-rattlesnake-by-eric-model-shipways-164-sport29652/page-2

 

Sitting on the shelf : MS Constitution, MS Sultana,

 

Wish List : MS Essex, Confederacy, and Syren, and a Victory kit by someone ?

 

"80% of the time it works every time."

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You have good taste !

Eric

 

Current build(s) ;

AL San Francisco II

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/862-san-francisco-2-by-eric-al-190-sport29652/

 

MS Rattlesnake

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/868-rattlesnake-by-eric-model-shipways-164-sport29652/page-2

 

Sitting on the shelf : MS Constitution, MS Sultana,

 

Wish List : MS Essex, Confederacy, and Syren, and a Victory kit by someone ?

 

"80% of the time it works every time."

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Thank you ZyXuz

 

Got the port Wales sanded.  Gotta tell you planking the counter was a pain, as I knew it would be. But i can say I learned several things, the biggest was I didn't sand the counter filler block enough.  I've already applied that lesson to the starboard side.  Gonna take a little wood filler to fix it up.  I know this hull is painted, but I'm trying to plank this hull as if it would be left natural as practice for future builds (read Confederacy!).  Which means no filler if possible...

Anyway, pics...

post-5597-0-40144600-1379256732_thumb.jpg

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Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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I've been meaning to comment your excellent build. Your planking is outstanding. I'm waiting to see your stern though. I've got this kit on a shelf and am still not sure which direction I'd like to take it.

Thanks,

 

Patrick

 

YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio

Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara

Current: I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54

 

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday"

- John Wayne

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Thanks Patrick!  Personally, I wish I could do better on the planking, but I am my own worst critic after all. I know where all the flaws are, and what caused most of them, so I am learning.  At least the paint will cover them up...

 

I'm in planking mode and haven't worked on the stern anymore since making the new drawing.  I will, whenever I either get done, or tired of hull planking.

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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While talking about planking, I've started pre-bending the planks in place as each plank is a little different in the area I'm working. I  always pre-bend a full length plank around the entire curve.  If you don't, the bend of the plank won't follow the entire arc.  Think of drawing a series of dots, then connecting them with straight lines - vs connecting each dot with an arc. After the plank is dry go back and cut the plank into segments.

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More sanding on the stern filler blocks makes a big difference.  Planks fit much better at the counter.  Also another thing I missed on the port side was tapering the planks down to 1/16" thick at the stem and counter.  I realized this mistake after I'd added 4 or 5 planks.  Now, thinning them helps the fit be much better.  Also realized I could trim the thickness down on the inside of the plank, which helps the fit even more!

post-5597-0-73600000-1379269292_thumb.jpg

 

Kind'a hard to see on this pic but the plank inside face is thinned down with a knife and doesn't have to be dressed up since it won't show.

post-5597-0-96310300-1379269595_thumb.jpg

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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