HMB Endeavour by Schubbe - OcCre - 1:54

[Schubbe]

Hi,

I'm beginning to build the HMS Endeavour from OcCre.

 

Here is an index to the different stages of the build:

 

• First planking finished

• Issues encountered during the first steps

          🙄 Foredeck flipped

          🤫 using PVA for deck planking

          🤔 When to prepare the hole for the rudder?

• Transom issues

• Redoing Hatch Boards

• Ladder Test

• Main Wales

 

After preparing the bulkheads, the decks were planked. I tried the toothpick method for the trenails.

Here ist my Progress so far:

    

 

    

 

 

Fitting the decks to the framework:

 

    

 

Meanwhile preparing the Lifeboat, which was actually quite challenging for me because I was trying to let all the planks run from stern to bow. Didn't work out perfect, but the finished thing still looks ok...

    

 

    

 

    

 

Beginning of the first planking using paper strips for each bulkhead and planking fans to try and plan the tapering.

 

Also using Chucks planking method. After a little learning curve, it worked quite well for me.

 

 

 

Edited January 10, 2022 by Schubbe

[Schubbe]

First Planking is coming to an end. Now it's sanding time. I decided to actually take some time to do that. Everyday a little bit, not too much at a time...

     

 

 

Made the boards for the hatch. Took the bigger rings by intuition. Now I am wondering if I should redo them with the intended smaller rings. What do you think?

Apart from that I think that using silver soldering paste to close the rings and eyebolts before blackening them is pretty effective to make them feel in scale.

 

 

Edited November 9, 2021 by Schubbe

[Schubbe]

Today I want to speak about issues which I encountered during the build so far. As I started the log quite a bit after beginning to build, there wasn't too much process to show. On the way I had some difficulties here and there which might be of interest to all fellow Occre Endeavour builders.

 

The first issue was that I planked the only asymmetrical deck from the wrong side so that the port hatch on the foredeck became the starboard hatch. It wasn't too difficult to repair, but still... So pay double attention to that when you are planking the decks. 😉

 

The second Problem was that I didn't believe the guys who said the planks might bend when glued with water based PVA glue. Of course it happaned exactly as predicted.

 

Couldn't really get it in the photograph though. It's not a big deal, but I think I will try contact glue next time. Or maybe I might experiment with this other method somebody proposed: He said, he is applying PVA to the deck and the planks. Lets it dry and then glues both parts together using heat from a flat iron. But I do not know if this actually works.

 

The last deck planking issue had to do with not enough forsight again. Idecided to follow Marquardt and build waterways around the decks as can be seen in the pictures below:

    

 

It worked out quite well for me. Except I didn't expect the inner planking of the bulwark to be so thick. So what happened was that it partially covered the waterways. So if you are planning on doing the same, take those 2mm into account!

 

Then I had a hard time to decide how to deal with the hole for the rudder. As I watched the instructions I saw that the rudderpole has to come through somehow. The text didn't say anything of value on how. I assume they want you to drill the hole after finishing the second planking.

 

I found that rather risky. So I decided to cut the plywood beforehand by applying one reinforcement, then taking out the bridging part and after that glueing in the second reinforcement. You might see what I mean on this photo:

 

So now I have a very nice "channel" through which to put the rudder pole. This way the rudder will be unmovable though, which I don't mind. I will let you know how all that worked out once I get to actually building the rudder. The question remaining is how to prevent the plywood of the reinforcements to be seen from the top. Any Ideas, guys?

 

That's it for now. I hope that was helpful to some of you. If you have comments or even better ideas to deal with these issues, let me know.

Edited November 9, 2021 by Schubbe

[Schubbe]

Right now I am thinking about how to treat the transom. I am not so happy with the OcCre solution. For some reason I do not understand, they have decided to make the transom way too broad as you can see in this picture from the instructions:

 

If you look at the Marquardt drawings you see something completely different:

 

This looks way more elegant, but building it from scratch would mean to completely abandon the decorations. Maybe also the Windows. I am pretty unsure what to do. Beeing a first time modeller, I cannot imagine to carve new decorations from scratch. Or should I file down only the sides of the original transom to match the width of the stern and keep the full round overlap for the decorations? But then I still would have to shift the windows further inward.

 

There is yet another thing bothering me. There is a gap where deck and transom meet. The deck is even rounded. Are you supposed to bend the transom? The instructions don't seem to propose that. On the Marquardt plans it actually seems as if there is a slight bend in the transom. Or should I close the gap using a woodstrip.

Hmm. I really would appreciate your opinions on that one...

Also: If you are preparing the transom yourself, double check if the holes are centered. I had to shift mine by about a milimetre.

Edited November 9, 2021 by Schubbe

[Schubbe]

I have come to a decision concerning the transom. I was so focused on the AOTS, that I didn't look at the OcCre deckplan. And there was the answer. Duh!

 

So i sanded the Stern section to follow the curve of the deck. Apart from that, I am still thinking about reducing the width of the transom to match the stern of the hull and shift the window positions further in...

Edited November 9, 2021 by Schubbe

[DaveBaxt]

Great question as I have been pondering the same with building the Endeavour by Caldercraft. I just assumed that the transom would have to be bent to follow the deck but was unsure. Also for the record did you fit anything behind the windows on the TRansom or planking etc? I am a bit late but would like to follow your build if I may. Terrific looking job so far .Best regards Dave

Edited June 29, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Schubbe]

57 minutes ago, DaveBaxt said:

Great question as I have been pondering the same with building the Endeavour by Caldercraft. I just assumed that the transom would have to be bent to follow the deck but was unsure. Also for the record did you fit anything behind the windows on the TRansom or planking etc? I am a bit late but would like to follow your build if I may. Terrific looking job so far .Best regards Dave

Hi Dave,

thanks for your interest and the kind words. What a bugger with your warped parts.

I am not shure, if I understand your question about the windows correctly. Do you mean if I plan to somehow give the impression that you could look through the windows? Because that is a good one. I am turning three ideas in my head. One way could be to paint a gradient to give the impression of lantern light. Something like that:

Or maybe print some Image of the main cabin and glue it in? But that would probably only work if there was actual depth/room behind the windows.

Or just paint it light blue or even black? What are your ideas?

Edited June 29, 2021 by Schubbe

[DaveBaxt]

Someone has painted theirs black and it looks ok, however I like your idea of lanterns and I might try some experimenting with that and see what I come up with. I think on my last model the Bounty I tried a kind of light blue which I got the idea of a guy who did a series of videos but think I will try something different this time. 

                         I really like the look of your decking and the pieces on the edges is fantastic and must have taken a lot of patience with something like that . I think I would liek to try something like that but might be out of my reach skill wise. Keep up the good work and keep us posted of your progress. I am not reaaly doing much to mine at the moment as I am supposed to be having a break but just wanted to check everything in the box but thought it would be a good idea to sort out the keel before it got any worse.

Edited June 29, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Schubbe]

11 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

 

                       I really like the look of your decking and the pieces on the edges is fantastic and must have taken a lot of patience with something like that . I think I would liek to try something like that but might be out of my reach skill wise.

Let's see and share what we come up with window-wise...

I am looking forward to see your progress on the caldercraft endeavour. The waterway thing is not too much trouble. I am a first time modeller and could pull it off. There is a (german) tutorial on the technique. It's the best I could find:

https://www.modellskipper.de/Tipps/Tipps_zu_Decks_und_Beplankung/Einarbeiten_von_Fischungen

You might be able to translate it with:

https://www.deepl.com/translator

I would like to encourage you to give the technique it a try. I happened to find it really rewarding. You'll need an extra (broader) sheet of the same verneer you use for your normal deck planking though.

 

Edited June 29, 2021 by Schubbe

[Schubbe]

Today I did some amendments to adress the issue of the plywood that was all too visible from above.

I took some of the plywood reinforcements out.

 

 

Then built a box around the channel for the rudder and painted the interior black.

 

I think that looks way better from above.

 

 

Edited November 9, 2021 by Schubbe

[Tim Holt]

On 6/22/2021 at 2:30 PM, Schubbe said:

Made the boards for the hatch. Took the bigger rings by intuition. Now I am wondering if I should redo them with the intended smaller rings. What do you think?

 

My approach has been to measure things with a caliper, then calculate based on the model scale how big it would be in real life.  Then decide if that real size makes sense.

 

I did that with some rings for door pulls on my current build, and realized that if scaled up, they'd be immense.  8" diameter rings made from 1" diameter metal would be ridiculous on a small companionway door!

Edited June 29, 2021 by Tim Holt

[DaveBaxt]

7 hours ago, Schubbe said:

Let's see and share what we come up with window-wise...

I am looking forward to see your progress on the caldercraft endeavour. The waterway thing is not too much trouble. I am a first time modeller and could pull it off. There is a (german) tutorial on the technique. It's the best I could find:

https://www.modellskipper.de/Tipps/Tipps_zu_Decks_und_Beplankung/Einarbeiten_von_Fischungen

You might be able to translate it with:

https://www.deepl.com/translator

I would like to encourage you to give the technique it a try. I happened to find it really rewarding. You'll need an extra (broader) sheet of the same verneer you use for your normal deck planking though.

 

Thank you for taking your time to dig out that explaination and after a quick read I will most likely give it a go. However as my deck planking is made from Tanganyka I only have the one size which is 1mm x 4 mm. Fortunately it is easy to get other size form a model shop.here in the UK. Anything up to 10mm wide in 1 mm incriments. I would be grateful if you could think back and give me an idea of how much I will need. Best regards Dave

[Schubbe]

8 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

Fortunately it is easy to get other size form a model shop here in the UK. Anything up to 10mm wide in 1 mm incriments. I would be grateful if you could think back and give me an idea of how much I will need.

Hi Dave,

I ordered a 100x1000 sheet of verneer like the one in the photo:

But I only needed 100x150 or so. You can even get away with smaller pieces, but I found it convenient to be able to trace the full forecastle deck. In your case, I would probably trace the deck to a sheet of paper. Figure out how to segment the waterway, and then determine the broadest width you need to cut out the parts. I remember it was also important to take into account the grain of the wood in relation to the grain of the deck planking. If that was too cryptic let me know, and try to explain better. 😉

[DaveBaxt]

3 hours ago, Schubbe said:

Hi Dave,

I ordered a 100x1000 sheet of verneer like the one in the photo:

But I only needed 100x150 or so. You can even get away with smaller pieces, but I found it convenient to be able to trace the full forecastle deck. In your case, I would probably trace the deck to a sheet of paper. Figure out how to segment the waterway, and then determine the broadest width you need to cut out the parts. I remember it was also important to take into account the grain of the wood in relation to the grain of the deck planking. If that was too cryptic let me know, and try to explain better. 😉

I think I am getting what you mean. I now wish I had used the false deck as a template before fitting it to the bulkheads . Unfortunately I don,t think the drawings are to scale so will have to try and think of some other way of tracing the deck. Any ideas?

[Schubbe]

21 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

will have to try and think of some other way of tracing the deck. Any ideas?

If the plans were 1:1 you could of course copy them, and cut them out. If they are not you still could trace the actual deck. On your latest photo it looks as if the bulwarks are not yet applied, so that would seem possible to me.

 

[DaveBaxt]

I see what you mean and should be to cut around the tags on top of the bulkheads which are eventually removed once the bulwarks are fitted. I will make a copy soon as and put it in a safe place for when I do the deck planking. Thank you again for your help. Best regards Dave

[Schubbe]

On 6/30/2021 at 12:10 AM, Tim Holt said:

My approach has been to measure things with a caliper, then calculate based on the model scale how big it would be in real life.  Then decide if that real size makes sense.

Thanks for your tip Tim!  You are absolutely right with your comment. To be able to decide what exactly is reasonable in my case, I ordered figures in the scale I am working in as a reference. I was surprised by how big they are:

So they could have handled the rings I used, but probably they might be a bit too big... 😞

 

Fun fact: OcCre couldn't decide on the ring size themselves... 🙂

Edited November 9, 2021 by Schubbe

[Tim Holt]

Glad that helped!  I too have a tiny figure and they do help you a bit with a sense of size and scale as well.  Sometimes it helps you appreciate say, how tall the bulwarks would have been for someone standing tehre.

[Schubbe]

Oh my. I find myself in some kit bashing situation... Didn't expect that to happen on the first model... But here we are. I am trying to shift the windows of the transon further inward. It seems to be a good decision, because now the windows appear to lead into the ship, not past the outside wall. And now there is enough room to trim the transom to the width of the stern while leaving the top as is, to be able to use the brass decorations of the kit.

Well but now I am starting to think about trying to find and buy some pieces of decoration which are a little more "3D". 🙄

"maggsl_01" - whose excellent built I followed - even dared to carve the decorations from scratch. Here is a link to his log:

https://modelshipworld.com/profile/7014-maggsl_01/

I am tempted...

Edited November 9, 2021 by Schubbe

[OllieS]

Totally agree with the scale problem. Manufacturers buy in bulk and therefore compromise between models because anything else would be economic madness. Second best you tube quote to date: 'if you think spending and hour turning 3mm rings into 2mm rings is a punishment. then this might not be the hobby for you'.

First best is; 'it is not difficult, just time consuming'.

I hope to emulate you, when I get that far.

[Schubbe]

After a long break I am slowly going back to work on the Endeavour.

As I had this scale problem with the rings for the boards covering the hatch, I decided to redo them. With that decision came an idea. Before I was trying to sand the boards as smooth as I could get them. Now I did an experiment with wirebrushing the surface to emphasize the grain of the wood. Here is a picture of a test. What do you think, good idea or bad idea?

 

Edited November 1, 2021 by Schubbe

[Fernando E]

The grain of the wood comes up a treat. I will definitely do that when I start my Endeavour kit (currently on the shelf together with the Beagle).

 

Cheers.............Fernando 

[DaveBaxt]

I think the grain looks really good and seems to have a more weathered look and more realistic view in my humble opinion.

[Schubbe]

Thanks for your reassuring opinions. So I went on with the wirebrushing and here are the new boards next to the previous ones. The effect is more subtle to the naked eye, but it makes quite a difference...

I am glad I decided to redo them. The next step will be applying the smaller rings.

 

[Schubbe]

Finally my little ring-scale-issue seems to be solved:

[shipaholic]

Your build looks great so far, great attention to detail. I have built this model and like you, I made a new transom because I didn't like the shape of it nor the position of the windows. I made the windows see-through using clear plastic.

[Schubbe]

I realized, that to me the ladders or stairs in quite a few models are feeling odd, or out of scale. So I did another test with the ladder going down the main hatch. The attempt was to make the ladder feel more in scale by reducing the width and breadth of the outside boards. To me that is an improvement. What do you think?

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 29, 2021 by Schubbe

[Schubbe]

Also I begin to overcome the mental barrier, that stopped me from beginning the second planking...

I began marking the hull. Next step applying the wales. After that I will try to line up the parts above and below the wales...

 

 

 

 

[Schubbe]

Sooo... I finally began my first attempt at bending and applying the main wales. After two or three ruined woodstrips, I managed to bend this quite complicated form. After that I used rubberbands to let the strips dry in position over night, and then again to hold them in place while the glue dried. This is a milestone for me. After that breakthrough I think things will take up speed again...

 

First step: Bending the broad side in two directions to avoid the wales from coming to far up on the bow.

 

Bending around the slim side to follow the Hull:

 

Holding the plank in place with rubberbands:

 

What do you think. Good approach? Or are there simpler Workflows?

 

Edited January 10, 2022 by Schubbe

[DaveBaxt]

I like that method too using elastic bands bands for securing planks/ strakes, especially the second planking where we are not allowed to use any nails. keep up the good work. everything is looking very neat. Your workmanship is of a very high standard. I am looking forward to your progress. Best regards Dave.