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Posted

After years of building with equipment all over the house which I had to drag out and then store again, I now have a dedicated shop. Yippee! I replaced the original structure which was a shed attached to my barn with the new structure which has heat and air conditioning as well as exhaust fans. I split it into two rooms one of which is for sawing, filing and anything which creates dust. The other room is for metal work and assembly. I also included a fly tying table as I am an avid fly fisherman. I still have plenty of room left over to add tools. I'm thinking of a thickness sander but I don't need it yet.

Richard

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Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Richard,

 

One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.

LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 

Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.

MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.

But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.

 

If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  

I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.

 

You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.

 

With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Is the second picture of a cowbarn? that you remodeled into the first picture of your present shop?  Wow thats quite an overhaul (complete teardown and replace sounds like) if so. 

My wife and I are planning some remodeling of our house and my #1 want is a room with natural light for shipbuilding and woodworking.  Presently I am allotted half the basement; and my half shares with the HVAC.  In return I said she could have the rest of the house to do whatever she wants with, but its not a strong bargaining position as she already Has the rest of the house. 

Posted

Thanks for the tips. Not in the pictures are high output 4 foot shop lights in the ceiling of both rooms. In the last picture note the brightness. There is no window in this room to the outside with the only window being into the other room which itself has only one window. Without the light on, this room is very dark. I kept the windows to a minimum to give me the most bench/wall space. I moved the two floor lights from the house to get them out of the house but so far have not needed them for modelling but have used the one next to the window when tying flies as I tie a lot of micro flies. I also wear 5x glasses both tying and working on my model. As for pedal controls, I had a Fordom with foot pedal whose motor gave out after long time use.  I used to carve decoys with it but don't see any use for it with the way I make models. I do have a Dremmel and a Craftsman rotary tool without foot pedal but use them infrequently. I do have a fold down bracket but use it to hang my waders.  My shop vac in the sawing room is not in the picture. Since the other room is set up as a clean room where any dust creation is to be kept to a minimum I can't see cutting a hole in the wall. I do need to look into a dust trap for my sawing.

Richard

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

Posted

Cisco,

What I did was tear down and replace a shed which was attached to my barn. The barn from around 1860 is in good shape with wooden pegged construction including main beams up to 39 inches. The shed was a later add on probably 1940's and was poorly done and had no footings or foundation being built directly on the dirt. It was a tear down so I used the footprint to design the new shed with the help of an architect. I did have to get permits but by using the existing footprint there really could be no objection as long as I built to code which we did. As to lighting, you will want more than natural light as discussed above. Good luck on you workshop project.

Richard

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

Posted (edited)

It was sort of an exercise in what if were I in your situation.

I admit that I have not needed to Foredom but for the one rabbet experiment.  Flying by the seat of my pants, I opted for the LX model - favoring torque over speed.  I haver never used any Dremel at anything like max speed., so I did not see needing the Foredom that featured that.

 

As for the vac,  I see a table saw and a scroll saw - a 1.25" hose to a vac lets you use them where the light is good and keep the dust down -  if you progress to scratch,  there could be other dustmakers.

 

As for the hole, I would rough saw a ~2.5" hole and fit one of these on the wall on either side - as well as feeding a piece of 12G Romex thru it.

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You would want a 220V line but your saw room looks like it could hold a 14" bandsaw -  with this and a Byrnes thickness sander - you are an instant sawmill. 

A Byrnes table saw is wonderful, but a 10" table saw  is a waste of money - a bandsaw is way more useful - unless you are also building actual furniture.

 

These are just thought burrs to sit in your mind for the future.

 

It is too expensive, by I would want a Kalwall skylight to counter the gloom.

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Congratulations Richard! Wonderful shipyard. I particularly envy your white painted walls. My garage has dark brick walls and I had to install a ridiculous number of tubes and bulbs to get a half decent light which I was only yesterday thinking is actually not enough.

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