King of the Mississippi by Cleat - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:80

[Artesania Latina]

Looking good, great work in one of our classics!

[Bob Fraser]

7 hours ago, Cleat said:

 

I made a couple mistakes when I had to reverse the piece to complete the drilling, it took me a couple tries to figure out my process. 

 

 

These look really good - mine are a bit of a mess as I didn't think of drilling holes until too late 😪, 🤯. I just used a pin pusher, a tool I find is pretty useless when it come to pushing the supplied pins!

[Cleat]

I worked on the doors.  I discovered there are two sizes of the rectangular doors.  I tried to stain the plywood doors but I didn’t like the results.  I applied deck planking to the doors but I didn’t like how that was working out either. I picked up a 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) piece of birch plywood at Menards (they have a hobby wood section).  I finished the birch with a sealer, nutmeg stain, and many thin coats of finish.  I glued the doors to the back of the birch plywood.

 

 

I drilled holes to define the corners of the windows (smaller holes work better).  I got a couple divots when while processing the doors.   I found a piece of nylon screen (from a window screen patch kit) and glued them to the back of the doors for the windows. 

 

 

I drilled holes for the eyebolts with a pin vice.  I put a ring on the eyebolt with a dot of glue on the tip and pushed them in, I bent the pins over because the pins weren't a little loose.  I glued a brace (kit scrap) on the back of each door and glued the assembly in the doorways.

 

 

I planned on gluing the double doors in place.  I couldn’t figure out how the brass hinge pieces worked until I looked at other logs to see how the hinge should work.  They are folded over to make a hoop of the narrow section, each hinge is two pieces with a pin through the hoops.  My skill with tiny components isn’t very good so I decided to make it less complicated and apply a single brass piece as a decorative hinge.

 

 

[Cleat]

The bow strip was a challenge. 

I soaked the walnut piece for 30-45 minutes.   My plan was to do two soakings, one to set the general arc, the other to set the final contour.   I was wondering how I could clamp it in place.  I managed to get the clamp to sort of trap the piece in position.  I let the half circle dry overnight.  I used the plywood scrap from where the deck was removed as a template for the second soak. 

 

 

I had a hard time gluing the piece to the front of the deck.  Between trying to get the clamp to work on a non-flat surface and the wet glue causing the piece to move around. Once the glue got tacky I could set it in place and use the palms of my hands to clamp the piece in place (for about 3-4 songs).  I drilled the holes with a 2 mm bit, then with a 2.5 mm bit. 

 

 

I realized I glued the piece in crooked. I debated about trying to unglue it, but I don’t have a lot of experience un-gluing stuff (mixed results) and I was concerned I’d loosen other pieces or break the piece.  I chose to let it be. 

 

[Cleat]

Item 59 – where are you?

 

Item 59 is the bar supports for the open area and they are not included in the kit, you have to manufacture 8 of them.  I scanned the picture of the piece, traced it in a drawing program and scaled it for an 8 mm height.  The parts list identifies the part as a 5 x 8 mm piece but when I measured the tracing it was smaller; it was too delicate to make for my skills so I stretched the tracing to match the part list dimension. 

These are the dimensions I came up with (all dimensions are in mm):

 

 

I printed out several copies of the part and glued a strip to walnut scrap from the paddle wheel brace parts.  Three of the four pieces turned out so I made a bunch more using up the scrap. 

 

 

I cut the closing bars to the size identified in the parts list which is precisely the distance for the bar supports.  To make the bars cross like the picture you need to cut a longer piece (90 mm).  I also made a little piece to cover the hole from the tab for the forward structure.

 

 

I attached the paddle wheel supports.  I started to work on the floor of the second deck.

 

 

[bobandlucy]

I too had to adjust the size of the support brackets for the stable area barriers. I don't think the "crossing" configuration shown in one of the pictures is the intended final position, and subsequent pictures do not show it that way. The supports would have to be much deeper to accommodate the planks in that position, and walking space would be eliminated. 

 

Looks good so far!

 

Bob 

[Cleat]

My King of the Mississippi project went on hiatus last spring; my workbench is shared with other hobbies as I transitioned to the garage season.  Model ship building is one of my winter hobbies.  I’m picking up where I left off (including making mistakes).

I built the state room compartment and I didn’t pay attention to what I was doing.  I installed one of the round end sections upside down.  I managed to dissolve the glue with isopropyl alcohol without damaging anything.  But re-glueing it wasn’t as clean as I wanted.  I’ve started my process of sanding and leaving the saw dust in place, then I apply some finish and use wet/dry sandpaper to create a slurry to fill any gaps.  After two or three applications things will be smooth. 

[Cleat]

Hind-Sight Tip

I didn’t soak the wood long enough for bending; I cracked one piece and broke the other when I formed and clamped them into shape.  I fixed it:

Next up is to apply primer to the gray metal parts.  I’m trying to decide what shade of brown to make for the windows, doors, and shutters.  I’ll be using acrylic paint with an airbrush).  I’m also trying to figure out how to apply color the window panes and the indentations of the shutters.  

[Cleat]

The seams connecting the curved end pieces were not good enough so I cut out the bad work to install a new plank, it worked out better but not totally clean. 

 

I started the spiral stairways.  I set a marker to 2mm and scored the stairs to help align each step.  I almost forgot to reverse the rotation for the second stairway.  

I noticed the pie shaped pieces are not symmetrical, the short side isn’t as long as the straight pieces so I used the longer side as shown.  I used the pole to help register each pie shaped step. I don't know how close I got the the 90 degree turn.

I put the third deck on the structure to determine how I might apply the herringbone plank pattern and I noticed that holes don’t line up between the two decks.  I’m wondering if I should not have opened the holes on the second deck.  I don’t know what the holes are for. 

 

 

 

[Bob Fraser]

2 hours ago, Cleat said:

I put the third deck on the structure to determine how I might apply the herringbone plank pattern and I noticed that holes don’t line up between the two decks.  I’m wondering if I should not have opened the holes on the second deck.  I don’t know what the holes are for. 

Hi Cleat.

The mis-aligned holes are for the anti-hogging posts (AL call them "Turnbuckles"). These should be visible on the side view plan of the model. They form an arc front to back that stops the ship from bending up or down in the middle and should be rigged with rods, not rope, to stop the bend in both directions. @Cathead thanks for explaining their use to me after my own  head scratching moment,  and his video at Catheads Presentation is a good watch.

Couple of websites you might find interesting Steamboats.com and UWLAX Murphy Library photos

[Cleat]

A spice container has the right diameter to bend the spiral staircase railing.  I also bent a piece of mahogany I plan to use as an accent for the railing.  Just before I was about to bend the second railing, I remembered to consider the direction of the bend which would be opposite the first piece.

I discovered the first railing I bent didn’t turn out as expected, I got the diameter close but I didn’t consider the height the bend needed.  The second piece turned out better.  I might have to re-bend the first one (but I'm not sure if the wood can be re-bent).   It looks like the railing is longer than the stairway and I'm not sure how it is supposed to work (what is the pointed end of the piece for). 

[Bob Fraser]

The new style instructions and my old picture instructions are different to your piece!

I'd hazard a guess that the pointy ends fit under the upper deck to either make your steps level or leave the deck as the last step.

The picture instructions, pic 29 old instructions, don't show the pointy bit on the railings either, (although it is  there on the part!) and the step fits below the deck level.

Other modellers appear to have cut them off, but this image by @Warnerade  appears to show, even though it's removed, that it should fit below the deck.

 

Edited December 13, 2022 by Bob Fraser
More info added

[Cleat]

I've been filing the window openings in the second deck structure to fit the metal windows.  

 

I'm looking into making the gratings (step 26, item 77) on the second deck (the large openings).  They look like they are assembled from straight pieces.  I came across a bag of 20 interlocking pieces (instructions call out 20 pieces).  Should I assemble the large grate structure, then cut the two grates from the structure?  I expected the pieces to be sized for the openings.  I don't see any other use for these pieces in the documents. 

 

[Bob Fraser]

Them's the pieces! Part No. 77.

Assemble them into a square and then cut to size.

Mine was 7 vertical and 6 across. Measure the inner linings of the hole to make sure of the size.

You'll probably have to do a little sanding on the outer ones to get a good fit.

[Cleat]

10 hours ago, Bob Fraser said:

Them's the pieces! Part No. 77.

Assemble them into a square and then cut to size.

Mine was 7 vertical and 6 across. Measure the inner linings of the hole to make sure of the size.

You'll probably have to do a little sanding on the outer ones to get a good fit.

Thanks Bob, I've been referencing your build and it has been helpful. 

 

[Cleat]

I’ve been working on the spiral staircases.  I added walnut plank pieces to personalize the staircases.  The picture shows a test fitting, they came up short.  (The gap is smaller when I hold the bottom flush with the deck).

 

 

When I bent the railing for the left side, I came up way short of the staircase height so I soaked the piece a second time, it straightened out and I bent it again to match the height of the steps.  When I re-bent the railing, the top spear got out of its clamp and now it is straight which sticks out from under the deck. 

 

 

It looks like I’ll need to add a spacer at the top of each staircase.  And I’ll probably cut the spear off the left staircase and reattach it at an angle to fit under the deck.  It might take a little contem-beer-plating to figure out the fixes.

 

 

I stained the hand rails and I’m nervous about attaching them to the staircase assemblies.  I don’t know how well the hand rail will attach to the tops of the posts.

 

Edited December 26, 2022 by Cleat

[Bob Fraser]

Hi Cleat.

I didn't fit the spiral stairs at all but I would suggest sanding off the paint on the tops of the rails, and a light sand under the rail tops to help them stick.

I'd check the other builds to see how they managed this issue, but personally I would fit the steps before cutting a filler piece so you can see the shape and size needed.

Don't forget, unless you have spare wood there is very little scrap to spare with this kit.

Looking ahead when you get to part 30 stop! Parts 88 I found are NOT all the same length as suggested due to the curve of the deck each can be 0.5 to 1.5mm different depending on the individual fit of the upper deck and whether or not you've planked the ceiling.  They are also angled inwards which isn't very clear on the plans or instructions so you'd need to allow a 0.5mm for that too, but seperation distances using the big plan are good. I had to use calipers to get the right lengths.

[Cleat]

17 hours ago, Bob Fraser said:

Looking ahead when you get to part 30 stop! Parts 88 I found are NOT all the same length as suggested due to the curve of the deck each can be 0.5 to 1.5mm different depending on the individual fit of the upper deck and whether or not you've planked the ceiling.  They are also angled inwards which isn't very clear on the plans or instructions so you'd need to allow a 0.5mm for that too, but seperation distances using the big plan are good. I had to use calipers to get the right lengths.

Thanks for the tip.  I haven't started Step 30 yet. 

 

I'm advancing several steps at the same time.  I painted the paddle wheel metal parts and I'm finishing the planks.  I air brushed the windows, doors, and shutter pieces with a base brown coat but I haven't decided how to paint the individual window panes, I don't want to paint them freehand and I haven't come up with a template idea yet.  I made the second deck grates but haven't installed them yet (I need to do some filing to the grates and the opening to get a proper fit).

[Cleat]

The Spiral Staircases

 

When I bent the first railing posts I was only concerned about the diameter (a spice jar was the right diameter).  But I discovered the height was way short.  For the second railing I made an attempt to match the height between the decks, I came close but a little short.  I decided to re-bend the first railing and it came out a little tall, the center post became crooked after the stairs broke and I reglued the parts (the picture in a previous post shows it was square at one point). 

 

Gluing the railing posts to the stack of stairs was tricky, it was hard to hold the assembly in position until the glue set a bit.  I tried to glue both assemblies the same but aligning the pieces varied.  I used my hands to clamp the piece to the stairs (for 3 songs) then it would hold in place while I added some clamps until the glue fully cured. 

 

To fix the height problem I would have to deconstruct the railing and that wasn’t going to happen.  When I assembled the two staircases, I broke 2 posts and cracked 2 others - deconstruction would be a disaster.  I decided to live with my mistakes and move on. 

 

On a positive note, I got practice and some knowledge for future kits.  And I liked how my walnut embellishment turned out.

 

This is how it turned out:

 

[rcmdrvr]

Hey, your results look good to me.

[Bob Fraser]

Looks good.  Those stairs are the most difficult part of the build!

[Cleat]

The stairs are a difficult assembly.  I was happy that I was able to accomplish the task.

[Cleat]

I built the paddle wheels.  I painted the red base with an airbrush and hand painted the black accents (it has been a long time since I tried painting with a small brush).  I ran a piece of sandpaper through the yokes for the wood to remove paint.  I tried putting a dot of gray paint on the bolts but my painting skill wasn't good enough for that detail. 

 

I made a 23 mm guide from scrap to locate the four paddle wheel supports.  It took awhile to align everything and just as I was going to start the assembly, I bummed it knocking supports out of alignment and it took even longer to get it back to where I had it.  The shaft is a loose fit through the paddle wheels. 

 

I installed one board with a force fit, then I glued the second board using CA glue several spokes away from the first one to help lock the alignment of wheels.  I put a few drops of CA glue on a small plastic bag (I learned CA glue doesn’t stick to those bags from my pen turning hobby).  I used a flat toothpick to put a drop of glue in each yoke.  This assembly has a big visual affect for the boat. 

 

[Bob Fraser]

Looks nice and clean from here!

A bit late, but painting the bolt heads can be done with a toothpick or a "dotting pen" (a steel ball headed implement) from a nail art tools set.

Our middle lad uses one on his tank wheels to good effect.

[Jerry Berenson]

Hi Cleat, I am also building an older version of your model. Yours is looking great !  I am in the process of planking the second deck. I have also had similar problems like yours along the way. I am using the plans with the model as well as plans on the internet for the new version of the model as I have motorized the paddle wheel and will also light up the ship. The kit has solid metal windows so I am planning to make my own with clear acrylic. My problem is I cannot find where to place the batteries and on/off switch. The new plans show the 

[Jerry Berenson]

wiring but nothing else. Also how to access the motor if the elastic comes off.  Any ideas? I have enclosed a few pictures. Regards. Jerry 

[Bob Fraser]

3 hours ago, Jerry Berenson said:

wiring but nothing else. Also how to access the motor if the elastic comes off.  Any ideas? I have enclosed a few pictures. Regards. Jerry 

Hi Jerry

On the older model the back wall of the engine room is fixed in place, on the new version the complete back wall and paddle assembly is removable.

If you look at the new instructions, Section 4 pic 2 it shows extra slots in the deck, and Section 9 Pic 9 clearly shows the tabs on the bottom of the axle bearers.

You'd need to unglue your back wall and axle bearers as one piece, and work out a way of making them fixed but removable.

It looks like the switch and battery should be inside the second deck, with the upper deck removable to access?

Welcome to the "King" club 😁 - please, consider a build log so we can follow along.

Cheers,

Bob

Edited January 7, 2023 by Bob Fraser

[Cleat]

On 1/7/2023 at 12:46 PM, Jerry Berenson said:

wiring but nothing else. Also how to access the motor if the elastic comes off.  Any ideas? I have enclosed a few pictures. Regards. Jerry 

I didn't know they had a version with a motor to rotate the paddle wheel (my paddle wheel is so loose it hits structure when rotated).  How is it powered?  Have you tried putting the band on the interior pulley by working the band from the rear opening?  I'm guessing you probably won't need to put the band on unless it breaks over time. The only thing I can see is to make the rear wall removable.  Use some scrap from the laser cut panels to make a frame for the rear wall to attach to the frame. 

[Cleat]

I completed the state room compartment (the second deck).  I was not looking forward to painting the windows, doors, and shutters.  It turned out OK when viewed from a distance but close up you can see my marginal skill with a brush. 

Test fitting the assembly to the deck (I started working on the third deck):

For the grates I stained the plywood knowing it would absorb the stain unevenly, I wanted to see what the effect would look like - I could always paint them.  It took a couple coats to get the effect I wanted.  Once I glued the pieces together, I discovered how delicate the assembly is when I tried to trim them to size.  The tiny glue joints can easily become disconnected or break.

 

I used an airbrush to paint the windows/doors/shutters a brown base color.  Brown is hard to mix.  I watched a couple videos and it looked like you can get brown from a variety of color mixtures but that didn’t work for me.  I was getting muddy gray with a tint of some color.  It took me three attempts to get a paint mixture close to brown.  The brown color is actually a muddy purple. 

 

For the shutters I wanted to mix a lighter brown and lightly paint the spine and highlight the edges of the shutters.  I tried to mix a lighter brown but my brush paints mix differently than the airbrush paint.  It also took three tries to get a complementary color that resembles light brown (but it is really a muddy gold).  I would load my brush with paint, then swipe it on a paper towel to reduce the paint load and lightly brush the center of the shutters.  It turned out but not as clean I hoped. 

 

For the windows and doors, I went with a light yellow.  I tried to paint within the window panes but that wasn’t going to work for me.  I ended up painting outside the lines of the window panes so I wiped the excess off so I could see framing and cross rails.  (I wasn’t able to get all the yellow off).

 

[Cleat]

I planked the third deck.  I had divided the deck into equal quadrants like I did for the main deck but looking at the cutout I decided to reduce the size of the middle quadrants, I went with 35 mm for the middle quadrants and 60 mm for the outside quadrants.   

 

 

I also planked the state room walls, floor, and ceiling.  I had assembled the state room before I planked it, I should have planked the sides before assembly, it would have been easier to trim the edges. I had problems trimming the edges, several pieces broke or separated from the structure. 

 

I cut the deck posts for the bottom deck and while applying finish to each one I realized I should have finished the wood before I cut them.  I’m finishing the other posts before I cut them and I’m looking at other pieces that I want to finish before cutting them to size. I’ve been applying finish to several things.