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Santa Maria by modeller_masa - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:65 - 22411N New parts


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This isn't a scale error, but incorrect parts. The barrels are much bigger than the instructions' barrels. 

 

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I made a custom barrel stand, but its overall look was ridiculous.

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I decided to hide the wine barrels in a corner of the deck.

 

 

 

Here is how the entire ship looked before I started rigging.

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The first ropes are from the foremast. 

 

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(Source https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M871OrwsYLg )

 

 

https://www.hnsa.org/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/textbook-of-seamanship/tackles/

 

I couldn't understand the AL's instruction, so I searched for structure of the tackles. According to the maritime dictionary and the 2017 Nao replica, it must be a gun tackle purchase.

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I bent copper tubes and made a ring under the blocks. The idea is from someone's build log . ;) 

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This is a minefield. With every step I take, my rationality sensor says the instruction is something wrong. Then, I have to dig into the issue and fix it for several hours. It takes too much time...

 

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There are 2x2 standing riggings that support the foremast. Look at the red threads. I doubted it wouldn't let movement of the foremast sail freely, so I decided to move it backward, just like the real 2017 Nao SM. 

 

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In addition, I found that spritsail doesn't work well explicitly. After several hours, I found the reason. AL faithfully followed the reference book, and they combined both rigging diagrams of Galleon SM and Nao SM. As a result, the functions of some rigging threads are overlapped or useless.

 

This kit is basically Nao SM, but I already found that some parts of other areas are from Galleon SM. And, how did they combine both rigging methods into one sail?

 

Moreover,some blocks share multiple ropes in a hole because of cost-cutting. At least it works on model ships, but it doesn't in reality.

 

 

 

I think sailing ships in the 15th century were the most advanced weapon like F-22 raptor in the 21th century, and every part has a reason to be there. If airplane changed or removed some parts like AL did, the airplane will crash before it reaches a destination. As previously stated, Columbus wouldn't have discovered the "India" with this instruction.

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 I made a shroud for the foremast. The ratline (white threads) should be wave shaped.

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To make the ratlines wave, I paid attention to the knot. 

 

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After I finished all the rigging work for the spritsail, I stiffened the sail in full wind form. I simply used a portable fan and diluted PVA glue. (water 1:1)

 

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Challenging and exciting project. ;) 

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I found that my build log is following Richard Feynman's study method. When he finished to study something, he made a lecture note to confirm his study achievement. 

 

https://medium.com/taking-note/learning-from-the-feynman-technique-5373014ad230

1. Identify the subject
2. Teach it to a child
  - Speaking in plain terms
  - Brevity
3. Identify your knowledge gaps
4. Organize + simplify + Tell a story ← This is my build logs.

 

Therefore, I'm drawing a very effective learning curve used by a novel prize-winning scientist! 😎

 

 

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The main stay and foremast shrouds are both overlapped. It is better to remove the "clueless" foremast shrouds.

 

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I modified the photo etched chain plate parts like the 2017 Nao replica, but its length caused a minor issue.

 

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The opposite side. You can see the nails of the chain plates going up. It is better to make DIY chain plate parts using 0.15mm brass sheet.

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I finished the spritsail and foremast sail riggings.

 

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I discovered that the spritsail is a little loose without the help of a fan. I understood that the AL included the clueless rigging line to the spritsail becase of lifting it. 

 

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However, I still think that the additional rigging line for the purpose of beauty is non-sense for wooden model ships. I thought about another way to overcome the saggy spritsail issue.

 

First, a hard rigging line isn't good for now because I'm using very thin threads.

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Secondly, I may insert stainless steel wire into the spritsail when I make it. It's too late, but it seems to be the best way. I'll try this method next time.

 

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You can find a bundle of ropes at the end of each rigging line. The bundles are fake and don't connect to the original ropes.

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It is possible to make the bundles with live ropes, but it takes a lot of time. The fake bundle of ropes saves lots of time.

 

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This is a simpler jig for making a fake bundle of ropes. I used wooden junk and wooden toothpicks. The jig requires to push and pull out the toothpicks.

 

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This is a more advanced jig to make the angled shape of a bundle of ropes.

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I made a tutorial video for the rigging part. The video editing took so much time that I'll complete the rest of video after I finish everything. 🤪

 

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I began the main mast rigging. I repeated trial and error to print the exact shroud guide paper.

 

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The shroud rigging is called a clove hitch. It is a very simple and fast method.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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After some flooding and restoration, I finished the mainsail.

 

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I didn't harden the mainsail and followed the rigging method in the reference book only. Therefore, the "distended" sails made me embarrassed. 

 

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In general, I anticipated that the full-sail is a "half-sphere" shape, like the box art of sailing ship kits. I tried to control ropes or change the fan's strength, but I failed to reproduce the half-sphere shaped full-sail. I don't know the reason, so I decided to search for real-world full-sails of Santa Maria replicas.

 

 

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Newton was right. 😎

 

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I finished an assembly of the Santa Maria 22411N. The assembly means all processes in the AL instruction.

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There are some minor tasks left, such as varnishing and detailing up using dummy ropes. In addition, I'll paint the 10 sailor figures that are sold sepately. It is the first time I have painted a human figure, so it may take some time. 

 

Before I wrap up the entire Santa Maria,  I'll add some build logs, like rigging method videos. I figured out that most of the posts I planned to upload were not useful because they are no wonder. Therefore, I'll post only some build logs that I think are the most useful. Also, if you have any questions about my build, please don't hesitate to ask me. 

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I made a stand. Next time, I'll try more complex stand design that includes metal bolts in the hull.

 

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The figures are pretty detailed.

 

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If we weren't in the age of the 3D printer, the tin figure kit should have had more value.

 

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This is a color reference on the box art. I found some more reference pictures from the official site.

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I finished a figure painting. 

 

Primer : Zinsser shellac

Paints : Tamiya and Testors enamel paints

Varnish : Vallejo polyurethane matte

Weathering (Tars only) : Vallejo oiled earth

 

I didn't draw faces because my ability would have made them emoticon faces. 🤣

 

I'll take pictures tomorrow and wrap it up.

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I finished the Artesania Latina Santa Maria 22411N. This is my opinion about the new kit.

 

Pros.

- Well known historical sailing ship, and excellent size to build and display

- High resolution PDF manual. It definitely helps to understand the AL's "unique" planking method, and the rich pictures don't miss any rigging knots.

- A lot of details are added or updated.

 

Cons.

- Most of the wood should be painted. It is time-consuming work, and inappropriate coloring may lead to frustration.

- Essential ship designs, such as hull or planking, aren't changed at all. Only decoratives are updated.

- The AL's "unique" planking method hasn't changed.

- The picture manual has no words.

 

This kit is a bit challanging for a new modeller. I saw some people were exhausted after they barely finished the old Santa Maria kit. The new high resolution manual should help with building it, but I doubt the know-how will help when they build the next model ship. The AL's planking method is kind of like making tattered clothes, so it is good to learn traditional planking technique, which is universal and makes much better quality. In my opinion, this kit is good for second-time builders who learned appropriate planking techniques by building some good introductory kits.

 

I won't judge the historical accuracy of the kit because the original ship left no plan. I spent 8 months. If you are an expert modeller, the new kit may take at least 1~2 weeks to complete. (I saw someone built the old kit within 3 days!) The extended time is for painting and varnishing lime wood. I'm sure that the old kit is much easier and faster than the new kit for experts, although it has more difficult manual and lack of details.

 

 

 

Thank you for your kind words, starlight. I'm very happy to have completed my first three masts kit. My next project will have a short and dense schedule, so I'll upload it on gallary.

I also thank all the people who followed my marathon build log. ;) 

 

Edited by modeller_masa
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/9/2022 at 11:48 PM, Dave_E said:

Hi Masa,

 

I’m in. What was/is your profession?

OK Dave I too was a Technical Writer and Instructional Designer, and you will find that the instructions that typically come with these kits are far below our standards; I am sorry to say... I am starting the Nao Victoria kit now, and it will be my 4th ship. I will be reading Modeler Masa very closely. Feel free to contact me anytime.

Regards,

Bill

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