Gluing Deck Planks to a False Deck

[GGibson]

I am sure this question has been asked multiple times, so apologize in advance for asking again.  I reviewed through about three pages on this sub-topic, did some basic searches, and still a bit unclear, so here goes...  I have some 0.5mm x 4mm limewood strips to glue to a false deck.  In order to avoid any curling, etc., would it be good to use some watered-down PVA glue?  Get it to that milk-looking consistency?  Would that allow the planks to adhere better and more consistently?  Any other proven gluing methods for deck planks?  Are we doing anything to hold down the strips while they dry?  Maybe pushpins like what is done on hull planks, not only to hold them down but also firmly against the adjoining plank?  Still learning and taking all the advice I can get! Thanks in advance for comments, advice and criticism. 

 

Gregg 

Edited April 14, 2022 by GGibson

[Clark Griswold]

I use a foam brush to "paint" the false deck with wood glue in an area I can accomplish within a few minutes time before it begins to set up.  Once I'm done for the planking session I use popsicle sticks with rubber bands attaching both ends looped under the keel to hold the fast.  Slight curling may still happen but not so much a good sand cannot cure it.  There are likely a ton of ways to skin this cat, but this has worked for me.

 

Good luck from a Kansas City native!

Edited April 14, 2022 by Clark Griswold

[Jaager]

Gregg,

 

Here is one way

 

There is a Woodcraft in your city.  The Lime can be replaced with a better acting wood species.  There are packages of veneer of Hard Maple, Birch, and Beech.   The smaller size is ~$20.   Straight grain, NOT rotary cut (when cut like a continuous sheet like from  a roll of paper towels, the wood will want to re-curl across the grain. )   A very sharp #11 style knife and a steel straight edge will free the scale planking from the stock.

 

It is unwise to dilute PVA that is used for a wood-wood bond.  If what you have is too thick to spread as a wet layer, it may be too old. 

Get a new bottle of Titebond II when you get the veneer.  

The job in question may be an opportunity to try the contact glue version of PVA.   This is: apply a thin layer of PVA to both surfaces to be joined.  Let the glue dry (polymerize).  Place the two pieces together and apply heat from an iron or maybe heat gun.  Take care not to char the wood or even so much as to denature it.    Practice on scrap first,  Practice as lot.

Wet to wet PVA bonding is stronger  It wants weight or pressure to make the gap as small as is practical.

Making the bonding surface half heat contact and half wet to wet may be the best of both ways, but it requires constant attention and concentration to keep straight what goes where.

 

Do research to learn the proper placement and staggering of deck butts.  Unless your vessel is 16th century or earlier, they will not be close together.

On and actual vessel, the trunnels are all but invisible unless you are on your hands and knees, so if you add them, it is for model decoration - not historical.  Learn the patterns used.  Just having four trunnels only at each butt joint looks ridiculous.

A scraper or a quality single edge razor blade is a good way to even the decking to the same plane.

Half strength shellac primer and full strength 2nd coat with a ScotchBrite rubbing is probably all the finish that is needed.

[KeithAug]

Gregg,
 

I just use PVA glue - not thinned. I lay the first plank on a line of glue and hold it down 

with notice board pins. Once dry I put another bead of glue alongside the plank, offer up the next plank and hold it down with pins. 
 

in any event my advice would be to do a few experiments on some scrap material first.

[Gregory]

11 hours ago, GGibson said:

Any other proven gluing methods for deck planks? 

Another option you might consider..

I glue my planks with white glue onto thin paper like tracing paper.

 

 

Ready to be glued onto the false deck.

 

The main deck in progress.  I feel its easier to correct mistakes and make adjustments.

 

Finished off the ship.

 

Finished in place.

I then glue the whole thing onto the false deck in place on the ship with yellow wood glue.

It takes a few minutes of smoothing and pressure because there is a tendency for ripples to form.

The yellow glue will start grabbing within 10 -15 minutes, but there is plenty of time to make adjustments.

 

Edited April 14, 2022 by Gregory

[GGibson]

Thanks to all for the suggestions/advice.  Feel a bit better in how to approach this task now.