HM Bark Endeavour by Sideways Sam - Caldercraft - 1:64

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for the likes.

Spent all morning chopping out the parts for the capping rails, upper rails

and timber posts.  Just one problem  -----.

The upper capping rails are grooved to the underside to accept the posts.

On one of these rails, over the groove, the walnut has split along thr grain.

Walnut tends to do this.  I have filled the split with superglue

and applied filler to the top surface.  These rails will be painted black

so with luck it won't be noticed.  Also, the various posts are slightly too big

for the cutouts in the rails.   Saw this problem on Dave Baxters postings

so was warned in advance.  The rails are fragile to say the least so have decided

to fix the rails securely then sand the posts to fit.

the rails follow the curve of the bulwarks and the posts and timberheads need to be

perpendicular to the waterline so individual fitting would be the best approach.

Also the manufacturer suggests cutting slots for the boomkins prior to fixing the 

capping rails.  Instead will cut these later with along with fixing the naval hoods

since I noticed potential problems with locating these items on other postings.

Back to the problem   ----   In the box of bits I have found a piece of lime wood

20mm wide x 10mm high x 300mm long.   I can't find this in the parts list

or imagine where to stick it on the model.  Any ideas ???

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi, and thanks for visiting.

Bulwark lower capping rails fitted.

Will be faired in and painted black after the posts and upper rails have been fitted.

Rails needed adjusting slightly at the bows to fit the curve of the bulwarks.

These parts are fragile so didn't want to try to bend them into place.

They are supplied over length so this was a fairly easy fix.

I obviously allowed the bulwark planking to spread outwards

and didn't check against the capping rails when fixing.

Another one to remember for next time.

Next will be the anchor linings and naval hoods.

It looks like these are best scratch built

so will be spares box diving later.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Added the anchor linings and naval hoods.

Linings as  per drawings in AOTS book.

Need a final rub down and one more coat of varnish.

Then it's onto the rudder and upper capping rails.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi, thanks for visiting and the likes.

Rudder finished and temporarily mounted for photo's.

First two show pintles and gudgeons fitted.

Third shows straps fitted and rudder temporarily located.

Fourth shows rudder head.  The height is manageable

but it needs to be fatter.  Plus I will not be using the tiller

provided in the kit but instead will be going with

Dashi's superb Endevour postings which I think

is more appropriate.  Also intend supplying a coaming

to trim the helm port plus rudder coats to close

Once the rudder is finally fixed in position.

Concentrating on the big and hard to access bits next

before I tackle the fragile parts so, stern ornament

and channels next.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for the likes.

Quick update  ----

Windows and ornaments fitted to stern.

Was going to fit the channels next but feel uneasy at this stage.

Noticed problems with the mizzen channels on several postings on this forum

also checking the kit box illustration it seems the mizzen shrouds clash with the

top quarter deck capping rails. also some potential problems with the height of the mizzen mast.

Plan of action  ----

will fit the upper rails first then dry fit lower masts and run temporary shrouds down

to clear the top rails and see how wide the channels need to be.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for the likes.

Capping rails and posts fitted.

Next will be the channels and lower deadeyes.

Will feel happier fitting the chains before

the airing and light ports are located.

First is to decide on lower mast heights (especially the mizzen mast)

before making new wider mizzen channels.

Main and foremast channels should be OK as supplied but will check these as well.

Noticed a post on Dave Baxters log ref. replacement boats from Chris Watton.

Will wait for these to be available instead of using the kit ones supplied.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[DaveBaxt]

Some really nice work  Sam and coming along nicely. I really like the look of those rubbing strakes for the anchors and looks very professional. Keep up the good work and I look forward to following your progress.

[DaveBaxt]

Sam Although you are probably already aware regarding the channels. A few modelers including myself have had issues with the kits channels, especially the mizzen mast channels not being deep enough and the hieght of the mizzen mast being too short. Make sure that the depth of the channels is sufficient so that the shrouds clear the capping rails. Forgive me if you are already aware of this but thought it might save you some work. Hope this is of help. Dave

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi Dave and, thanks for the comments.

Been playing with the channel set up all afternoon.

I think that the fore channels are OK but not sure about the main channels.

The mizzen channels are hopelessly narrow and need to be at least twice as wide.

Tomorrow I intend setting up the masts accurately including a taller mizzen.

Measure twice,  cut once.

Noticed that the photograph of the finished article on the box shows quite a clash

of the mizzen shrouds and the rails.

 

Intend to wait for the replacement boats from CW.

Already ordered pear wood cleats.

Used his shot garlands on a previous build.

Will post more photo's ref. the channels etc.

These parts need to be right.

 

Once again thanks for the input.

Best regards,

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Channel update  ------

After a more accurate measuring of shroud location and top rail

I can confirm the following  ---

Main mast channels are tight but OK.

Fore mast channels are OK as supplied.

Mizzen channels need to be as wide as fore and main

which is slightly more than twice the channels supplied.

I will be using a taller mizzen not, the one shown on the plans.

One of the swivel gun posts is very tight to a shroud.

Posts are already fitted so will let this one go.

If I had spotted this earlier I would have relocated the post.

It all fits together now.  The proof will be when I start rigging.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi, and thanks for the likes.

Channels ready for mounting except for eyebolts.

Will fix these before fixing to hull. To be safe the mizzen channels

are slightly wider than the fore and main channels

 

Best regards,

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Steps, skids and chesstrees.

Thought I would fix these before the channels.

Will be using masking tape as a guide and for spacing.

Steps need to be parallel to waterline and rear face will need

to be chamfered so that the top face of each step is horizontal.

The fewer pieces of kit fixed around this area the better

when carrying out this operation.

It took five hours to fettle and clean 28 steps,  4 skids and 2 chesstrees

and I didn't drop a single piece on the carpet.

Photo below shows the size of each step.

When you have four thumbs and one finger on each hand you need to concentrate.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for visiting.

Steps and skids fitted so now for the channels.

Then will temporarily step the masts and precisely locate chains

before adding the airing ports etc.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and thanks for visiting, 

Lower deadeyes and chains finally fixed in position. This took a lot longer than I expected.

Needed new links for the mizzen chains due to the wider channels.

A combination of small pieces, fat fingers and old age.

Next is to attach the external hull features before

going on to the deck fittings.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Quarterlights painted and fixed into position.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for visiting.

Light port and airing port lids assembled ready for attaching to hull.

The eight hinges are for the stem and stern ports which will be

built in-situ.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and thanks for visiting.

External hull fitted out as far as I want for now.

Time to start on the deck fittings.

 

Best wishes,

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for the likes.

Windlass and belfry assembled and fitted in position.

Whole thing went together fairly easily .

Parts are small and fragile but finished build quite robust.

The more I build of this kit the more I like it.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi, and thanks for the likes.

Middle deck features added except for ships boats.

Next will be the aft deck fittings.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Good morning,

Thanks for visiting and the likes.

Started on aft deck furniture.

Next will be the steering gear, capstan and binnacle.

This is my first Caldercraft kit and I am very impressed

by the quality of the materials supplied and how

easy it is to build compared to some kits purchased in the past.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi, and thanks for the likes.

More aft deck furniture fitted.

Next will be the tiller and steering gear.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for the likes.

Started on steering gear.

Rest of aft deck furniture to follow along with

stern shutters, lantern etc.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for visiting and the likes.

Aft deck fittings added.

Now to concentrate on the fore deck.

After reading posts on this forum by Dave Baxter, Schubbe, kiwiron and Dashi

I need to approach this part of the build with caution.

More research and a proper plan needs doing to make sure everything fits.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[AJohnson]

Looking very good Sam, lots of well made details. 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for visiting and the likes.

Fore deck finished except for anchors etc.

which wll be added last.

Before starting on the masts, yards and rigging

I fancy an attempt at the ships boats which should 

finish the hull construction.

Having seen comments on other postings I will

have a go at the supplied parts but may end up

visiting the Vanguard models site and obtaining

a set from them.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and, thanks for visiting and the likes.

Longboat and pinnace added.

This is a high quality well thought out kit except for the boats.

This is not my finest moment.  

I just couldn't get the fittings and the interiors to look right.

Didn't like the oars and found that the lack of a jig

when fixing the bulkheads and then trying to remove the bulkheads

after planking was, due to my skill level, frankly a disaster.

Ended up cutting my losses and fixing covers to hide the mayhem caused.

Maybe better luck next time.

Spare spars next.  More involved that the usual tree sections fitted

so will be good practice for masting and rigging.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

 

[Edwardkenway]

Who's going to know🤫

Nice compromise though, Sam! The tarpaulins look good.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Thanks Edward.

The tarps are from sheet lead for fly tying

from any good fishing tackle shop.

Finished with "Wilko" brand home emulsion tester pot

colour flintstone applied by stippling with a stiff bristle brush.

Not perfect but better than the dogs breakfast I made

of the interiors.

 

Best regards,

Sam.

 

[AJohnson]

Thanks for the info on the lead sheets Sam, looks very good. I have seen a few comments about the boats on this kit, one to ponder when I start mine. 🤔

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Thanks for the comments Andrew.

I used to use the lead foil from wine bottle tops but most seem to be

screw top or plastic these days and I was running out of stock.

The self adhesive part is fairly easy to remove and the lead

moulds well and keeps its shape.

It's just the right thickness.

 

Regards,

Sam.