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Posted

I try not to use MM as their prices are high, but sometimes they are the only game in town.  They used to carry blackend nails as well, so check to see.   If you can only find brass soak them in a pickling solution then rinse thoroughly and blacken with a blackening agent.   Whether you do it or get them already blackened, tapping them home will often expose the brass head again.  

https://www.micromark.com/Mini-Nails-3-8-Inch-Long-x-020-Inch-Dia-Pkg-of-100?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ZSWBhCVARIsALERCvy2_kxKGzI89NcROjw8aisnyAtC48WdTr7heEeu782hMF3pb5KURVoaAsbdEALw_wcB

 

I don't know the application you have in mind, but if you can, may you can go with copper wire which you can get in 24 or 26 gauge to be very close to 0.02"  Once in place the end can be blackened  with liver of sulfur.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

I've never seen cross members on deck as you're showing.

Take care and be safe.

 

kev

 

Current Build:  HMS Bounty's Jolly Boat - Artesania Latina

On the shelf:  Oseberg #518 - Billing Boats

Posted
5 hours ago, Peanut6 said:

I've never seen cross members on deck as you're showing.

And if I come off looking any brighter they're inlaid so as that it looks as though plank butts to a cross member. I'm not proud of it but it's the first of my booboos probably yet to come ;>)

Posted

A homemade tool that can be used again is always welcome in any tool box  :cheers:

Take care and be safe.

 

kev

 

Current Build:  HMS Bounty's Jolly Boat - Artesania Latina

On the shelf:  Oseberg #518 - Billing Boats

Posted
47 minutes ago, MeandSuzy1 said:

I'm not proud of it but it's the first of my booboos probably yet to come ;>)

Great thinking,  as none of us are immune to a failed attempt or two or fifty on any given project.   Sometimes it is better to rip it out and go with a do-over, but sometimes a cover up is a lot more inviting.  

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

I've been struggling somewhat to clamp the deck to cross beams without a ton of undo stress....which I was in no way kicked about having in such a tiny structure.  So I unloaded it by about 50 linear knife cuts and 10 or so side to side. I can now bend her with gentle pressure 

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Posted

Doug,

This may not apply to Bounty, but your adding the hanging knee is actually far more appropriate than the frame work provided by AL.  Instead of a hanging knee they appear to have a hanging standard as part of the frame.  Standards were often used on the orlop and platforms, but for the time of Bounty I don't think they would have them on the upper decks.  There would normally be a clamp (thick strake) on which the deck beams rest and a hanging knee and lodging knee, nothing like the design they came up with.  (I realize they are in business to make money and have to go cheap as much as possible)  FYI the handing knee and lodging knee would be sided about 7" thick. for a ship her size.

 

Pictures, 1000 words, &c.  No doubt impossible to change on your build at this point, but adding the hanging knees as you are doing is a great idea.


Allan

 

1947988187_HangingandLodgingkneeexample.JPG.df7477d94a3824fd2533aa355a8e68d6.JPG

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Doug,

This may not apply to Bounty, but your adding the hanging knee is actually far more appropriate than the frame work provided by AL.  Instead of a hanging knee they appear to have a hanging standard as part of the frame.  Standards were often used on the orlop and platforms, but for the time of Bounty I don't think they would have them on the upper decks.  There would normally be a clamp (thick strake) on which the deck beams rest and a hanging knee and lodging knee, nothing like the design they came up with.  (I realize they are in business to make money and have to go cheap as much as possible)  FYI the handing knee and lodging knee would be sided about 7" thick. for a ship her size.

 

Pictures, 1000 words, &c.  No doubt impossible to change on your build at this point, but adding the hanging knees as you are doing is a great idea.


Allan

 

1947988187_HangingandLodgingkneeexample.JPG.df7477d94a3824fd2533aa355a8e68d6.JPG

Geez I'll do better then. Building things on these,or so I've noticed seems to be the one place common sense can still be used. As mentioned, the kits no help though. FINALLY..Think I've relief cut the back, steamed, bent n twisted the top deck that he SHOULD'NT a ton of stresses. Ya I figure it's ok to glue and clamp, but. to have all the clamping pressure that it would have taken to stay loaded in my model was not going to pay back well

Edited by MeandSuzy1
Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, MeandSuzy1 said:

As mentioned, the kits no help though.

Sadly it seems to have become the motus operandi for them and a number of other kit makers.   Luckily there are several high quality brands from which to choose for future projects.   

Allan

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted
11 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Sadly it seems to have become the motus operandi for them and a number of other kit makers.   Luckily there are several high quality brands from which to choose for future projects.   

Allan

 

Oh this one's gonna be quality.. I just gotta train it

Posted
4 hours ago, MeandSuzy1 said:

Oh this one's gonna be quality.. I just gotta train it

Based on your posts, you are succeeding quite well.  Hopefully those kit makers such as this one with arguable quality levels will see what you have done and fix the myriad of mistakes you have come across.   

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted (edited)

Ah that's okay. Hey guys I picked up the Lepage extreme I told you about Allan. We got a product here. Wow. She's a nice thick gel.  I set this old saw blade on lacquered wood. I purposely put the blade on the gel pile on an angle to produce a gap and like with top deck to rib a tapered gap. I had good movement for 24 mins. Moderate for 9 more and by minute 40 a rock solid clear adhesion.  I bent the blade peeling off. This is between 5 min epoxy and glue glue. Very fine prodect

 

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Edited by MeandSuzy1
Posted (edited)

Well the deck is now stripped ,nailed, and eurothaned. I still hate the cross members I needed to bury my goof,but.. oh well. 020x3/33 nails go all the way through.  Just,so I epoxy the  back. Nothing will come loose anyhoo. Used the Lepage extreme glue. Gave perfect 30 min set time. The mid deck and hold each have lacquer spray but I flattened with wash. A lot in hold. Some mid,but. All gloss top. With just minor was near stairwells and main wailway

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Edited by MeandSuzy1
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys

I think Artesiana is trying to sabotage my build. They can't replace a broken main mast cause they say I have the wrong part #. That not withstanding ' how many things would be called "main mast" in this kit ??? OOKAY

Does anyone know what the brass grommets with rope running through from top deck all the way to hold do ??

I almost blocked one off due to the AL lovelies keeping it a surprise

20220729_071650.jpg

Edited by MeandSuzy1
Posted

Hi Doug,

If you want to replicate treenails, which would be wood on Bounty, and have it look like it is fully framed, figure at least 5000-6000. If you plan only to treenail the few frames from the kit, maybe consider leaving them off.  No matter what you decide to do SUBTLETY is key.  They should be barely visible otherwise it will look like so many of the models we see that look like they have a very severe case of acne.  Metal is inappropriate, but making wooden treenails is not difficult and various methods have been discussed at length recently here at MSW including using draw plates and hypodermic needles as drills. 

Allan

 

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

Doug,  I have had the extremely good fortune of having mentors in various areas of this hobby for many years that have guided and taught me.   Each of them  is a member here at MSW so you are in a good place as everyone seems to be happy to share their own knowledge and experience.  Forgotten things???  My memory sucks so a good library is also extremely helpful.  Some folks here have hundreds of books but personally I have far fewer in total and find that I only use about a dozen of them on a regular basis.  

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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