Bluenose 1921 by GGibson - Model Shipways - 1:64

[GGibson]

Well, I keep delaying the work on finishing the rudder assembly, waiting on another tool addition to the shipyard, so... thought I would begin work on the cabin.

 

This is certainly one of the biggest deck structures for the Bluenose, and was challenging, yet fun, to build.  Started with 1/2" x 1/16" strips cut to size.  Used 1/4" support in corners and beams.  Probably used excessive support beams, but wanted to make the planking easier, with plenty of underneath support and gluing contact.  Also, rather than using small strips for the moulding, I thought I would use a full 1/16" stock piece as the base.  Also, cut pieces for the companionway and the skylight walls from 1/16" stock.

 

       

 

For the cabin rooftop, I used the same 1/8" x 1/16" planks that I used for the decking.  The planking was tapered bow to stern as needed in order to fit well.  The two outside planks on the port and starboard sides were a bit wider and were cut and sanded to shape for the edge overhang.  I should have used wider planks on all four sides, as a border, if I had it to do all over again.

 

The cabin rooftop was stained with the Minwax Red Mahogany stain that I decided to use for all of the deck structures.  I wanted the deck structures to be a bit darker than the cherry stain that the deck will be shaded.  It may be a bit darker than I had anticipated on this larger structure, but should be good once placed on the deck with everything else.  We shall see...  With the base stained and glued to the rest of the cabin structure, I then placed a piece of sandpaper on the Bluenose deck and sanded the cabin structure to match the deck camber.

 

For the compass cover, I used a spare block of wood, cut it and shaped it.  A 1/16" x 3/16" strip was then wetted, steamed, shaped and wrapped around the top for the cover.

 

For the skylight, I hemmed and hawed on how I was going to complete it, and was impressed with how others had completed their skylights in their build logs.  I used 3/64" x 3/8" strips cut for each of the skylight frames. A small sheet, painted black, was then placed behind each of the frames.  Using both some PVA and CA glue, I was then able to cut some 22 Ga. copper wire to form bars, and glued the wire bars to the black backing.  It worked out pretty well, but I probably used a bit too much CA glue.  Some cleanup, though, helped the appearance.  I may still do some touchup changes on this cabin before its final placement on the deck, after seeing John Ruy's pictures of the Bluenose II on his build log.

 

       

 

I still need to add the smoke pipe/vent, but will need to do some solder work for that.  I also need to do the soldering in order to complete the pintles & gudgeons on the rudder assembly, as well, so... guess that's next on the list!  

[John Ruy]

Nice build so far… Looks like we are at about the same stage on our Bluenose builds. I’ll pull up a chair, we can keep tabs on each other. I’ll PM you some photos, that should help…

John

[GGibson]

Well, I finally got to the rudder assembly on my Bluenose.  I had actually worked on shaping and painting the rudder several weeks ago in some down time, in between one of the projects for which I was probably waiting on more parts delivery!  So now, it was time to complete the pintles and gudgeons construction and get the rudder attached to the hull.

 

In reading and studying many of the completed build logs for the Bluenose, such as those done by David Lester, Ed Kutay, Bob Hermann and others, also including current builds, I continue to look back especially to genericDave's Bluenose log and detailed descriptions, both here on MSW, as well as his Suburban Ship Modeler website.  I decided to attempt Dave's approach to completing the pintles and gudgeons for the rudder assembly.

 

My first task, then, was to make a building board like he did so that I could determine where to drill holes in the supplied 1/16" brass strips.  Using a scrap piece of board, I marked on it where I would drill the holes on the three (3) sets of strips.  I decided the pintles would have 3, 4 & 2 pinholes top to bottom, spaced 2.2mm apart, and the gudgeons would all have just 2 pinholes on all three, spaced 2.5mm apart.

 

Determining the thickness of the rudder and the sternpost at each contact point, I then made lines on the building board (and marks on the strips using an Xacto blade for where each of the strips would be bent in order to wrap around the rudder and sternpost/hull.  

 

This work gave me the opportunity to purchase a new tool for the shipyard!  In order to assist in making these super-small holes just millimeters apart from each other, I purchased a Proxxon Micro Bench Drill Press (Model #TBM115) and a Proxxon Micro Compound X/Y Table (Model #KT70).  I glued the outside edges of the strips (parts that would ultimately get cut off) to the board to keep them secure while drilling, using a #66 sized micro bit.  Although they weren't "perfect", the holes looked pretty darn good after drilling.

 

        

 

 

It was now time to solder tubes to all of the strips so that a pin could be placed in each of the pintles to create the hinge.  My past experiences with soldering did not go well.  What to do this time?  After some research, I decided to go the resistance soldering route and, once again, time for a shipyard purchase.  I got the MicroMark RSU unit.  After several practice rounds using scrap brass tubing and strips, I got comfortable enough to solder the 1/16" OD tubing to the pintle and gudgeon strips.  Using the Dremel, I then cut the excess tubing and, after a bit of reaming where necessary, confirmed that the pins would still go through the tubes.

 

 

I decided against using the Brass Black in order to darken the pieces, and instead cleaned them up with some white distilled vinegar and then primed and painted them with the same Liquitex Basics Acrylic Mars Black paint that I used on the hull.  I then secured each of the pins in the tubes with a spot of CA glue and cut the pins to their appropriate length to insert properly into their respective gudgeon.  Time to get these on the wood!

 

 

I first attached each of the pintles to the rudder using some J-B Weld ClearWeld Epoxy.  I set them in their locations on the rudder, wrapped them in wax paper (so the clamps wouldn't stick on any epoxy seepage) and clamped them for 24 hours.  I then drilled small shallow holes in the wood to match the holes in the strips, cut some brass nails with heads to a very short length, dipped them in CA glue, and inserted them to resemble the bolts.

 

 

With the ship upside down and resting on the foam cradle I have, I then fit the gudgeons onto the sternpost and hull in their appropriate spots, again using the J-B Weld epoxy to secure.  Once that dried, I then repeated the brass nail process on the gudgeon holes.  All-in-all, things came out pretty well.  One of those, from a natural viewing point, it looks good, but as the modeler and inspecting closely, I made a few oopsies.  Things to remember on my next ship's rudder installation.

 

      

 

Hopefully, I will be able to complete the nameplate and scrollwork in the coming days.  I've had several "re-do's" on that process, but may have an acceptable solution done soon.  Once that is done, I will do some touch-up work wherever need on the hull and then get it sealed and finished.  I've already started on some of the deck buildings in between some of these delays I've experienced on the bottom side, so progress has been slow but fairly steady.

 

Appreciate the peek-ins, comments and criticisms, and advice on anything that may be heading my way on the top side.  Thanks... 

Edited October 11, 2023 by GGibson

[GGibson]

Waiting on an Amazon delivery in order to hopefully finish the Bluenose scrollwork and nameplate project.  In the meantime, let's knock out the unidentified object and the hatches, shall we? Two (well, technically three) pretty straight-forward simple builds...

 

For the unidentified object, I used a 7/16" OD dowel.  Before cutting it down to size, I first created the lid seam, as it was easier to do this in the mini-miter box with a longer dowel to hang onto.  Created the circle with the miter saw, and widened it slightly all around with an xacto knife.  Then cut the dowel at about a 4mm height.  Placed a small brass rod in the bottom, which made it easier to hold while staining/painting, and I can use it when I mount and glue this on the deck for additional adhesion/support.  Stained the lower part with red mahogany stain I am using for all of the deck buildings and painted the lid white.

 

For the hatches, since they are virtually the same, just slightly longer for the one being placed on the fore deck, I did a lot of the cutting, gluing and staining at the same time.  My measurements were 24x24mm and 24x36mm.  For the outside frame, I used 1/4" x 1/8" wood stock and used a 3/16" x 3/16" wood stock for inner support and something for the 1/16" panel sheet to sit on.  On both of the sheets, I made a groove down the center of the panel to simulate the door halves.  I stained the frames in the red mahogany again, and stained the hatch covers in a lighter cherry, which is what I will also stain the deck in a bit, as well as the masts. 

 

I will glue the covers inside the frame inserts and drill the appropriate holes on the covers and on the frame sides for the ringbolts.  I will also sand on the bottoms to match the deck curvature before permanently placing.  The attached picture is obviously before these guys were fully completed. 

 

Alright, I hope to get the nameplate issues I've been having resolved soon!  Thanks again for peeking in, along with the likes, comments, criticisms and recommendations.

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by GGibson

[GGibson]

Got a few more things completed...

 

NAMEPLATES/SCROLLWORK

The work on the nameplates and scrollwork took a bit longer than I had originally planned.  First, I was going to enlist the help of my 14-year-old granddaughter to assist me with some Photoshop work to take some of the scrollwork I had obtained on the internet, change it to a yellow color, give it a black background, add some text where needed, and print for me.  Well, a 14-year-old's life seems to be more hectic than papa's with schoolwork and other activities, so I decided to tackle the work myself.  Actually, didn't do too badly, after downloading the 30-day trial of Photoshop and fussing with it a bit.

 

I then stumbled a bit, as I was printing the decals using the clear version of Sunnyscopa Laser Waterslide Decal Paper.  That was not working out well, as the yellow print was just not showing well when placed on the black hull.  Duh!  How about using their white-backed decal paper?!?  Worked very well! 

 

As recommended by others, I used the Microscale Micro Set & Micro Sol setting solution before and after placing the decals, and that seemed to help the adherence.  Added the hawse pipe lips with CA glue around the scroll work.

 

       

 

BATTEN

Back up to some of the deck fixtures, I worked on completing the batten that sits next to the wheel box.  Pretty straightforward assembly.  According to the plans, the batten appears to be about 14mm x 9 mm, and not very tall (as it had to be an easy step up for the helmsman).  I first made the batten using some 1/64" x 1/16" wood stock, but after assembling, gluing and staining, it looked horrible, so... let's try again.  This time I used a thicker stock, 1/32" x 3/32", and it came out better.  Used a routine of stacking one long piece, and then two side pieces, then another long piece, then two side pieces, etc, etc, until I got to that 9mm width.  Trimmed the pieces sticking out, sanded sides and top to get down to an appropriate length and height, and this attempt looked much better than the first.  The picture is prior to staining.  Moving on...

 

 

COMPANIONWAY

Had a little more time before finishing another project, so worked on the companionway next.  Decided to construct this, similar to how I did the wheelbox, using full 1/16" sheet for all sides, the base and, this time, for the fixed and sliding roof, as well.  Used a very thin piece of scrap for the slide rails.  And, like the wheelbox, placed some scrap stock pieces in each inner corner for bracing/support.  Although the close-up pictures distort the construction a bit, the final product came out pretty well.  Not as fine as I've seen others, but this was good.

 

     

 

 

 

SEALING THE HULL

With the nameplates and scrollwork completed, I am now able to seal the hull and bulwarks with Minwax Wipe-On Polyurethane.  Gave it one coat, sanded fairly lightly with 800 grit sandpaper, and just gave it a 2nd coat.  We'll see how it looks in a few hours after drying, but two coats may be good.

 

I'm holding off on sealing the deck until I finish these "major structures" that sit on the deck and get them fixed on the deck.  I will then put a seal on the deck and the structures.

 

Still haven't completely decided on how this Bluenose will be displayed, but have been seriously thinking of using a launching way display with full rigging but no sails.  Whatever I am going to do, I probably need to decide soon, as I continue working on all of the deck structures, but before we get to the masts and rigging.

 

As always, appreciate the peek-ins, likes and comments.

Edited October 15, 2023 by GGibson

[John Ruy]

Looking good 👍 Glad I’m checking in, you just reminded me of the battens beside the wheel box. I’ll have to get back to that after I finish the Oars. 
 

John

[GGibson]

Any little thing I can do to help, John!  Your Bluenose work has been an inspiration for me to trudge forward! 

[John Ruy]

I know it’s a little detail, but for me it’s all about the detail. 🧐 

 

BTW… A launching way sounds like a nice display. I haven’t done one of those yet. I’m considering sails hauled down and stowed, myself. 
 

Steady as she goes. 
Cheers 🍻 

[GGibson]

Yes!  Furled sails have been a serious consideration!  The pictures you shared of the Bluenose II and the pictures from the Nova Scotia Archives (Nova Scotia Archives - Bluenose: A Canadian Icon) have been really good in showing how the sails look when down and furled.

 

For historical accuracy, I believe I read that much of the Bluenose rigging was done after it was launched and in the water.  So, not sure that furled sails or even substantial rigging without sails as it sits on the launching way would be correct, but... <shrug> 

[John Ruy]

17 hours ago, GGibson said:

For historical accuracy, I believe I read that much of the Bluenose rigging was done after it was launched and in the water.

You are correct, schooners needed to be slid down the ways before they weighed too much. If you look closely at the launching photos in the archives, nothing was done regarding rigging until launch. As for folding the sails down on the booms the sail material has to be very thin to represent the furled or folded sails properly. Most kit sail materials are not fine enough. I have some thinner material that I’ll have to experiment with, once I get the sails sewn up, to decided if I leave them up or bring them down on the booms and fore deck. Decisions and Research 🧐 to be done for sure. 

[wmherbert]

Have you considered using silkspan? I've used it on my last three models at 1 to 50 scale and I think it's come out very well. I've never felt that using cloth looked so good.  On each I got running rigging all done without sails and debated about adding the sails and at the end was very happy I did. Now these were all fishing schooners.  Not sure what is best on a big square sailed man of War model.

Bill

[GGibson]

John & Bill - Thanks to both of you for your input!  Always appreciate others' viewpoints and experiences!  

 

Regarding the furled sails discussion, I am sure you have both seen, as well, the archived MSW thread from back in 2013-2015 about furled sails - 

Bill, he does mention considering silkspan in his opening thoughts, but used some muslin fabric.  However, later in the thread, he says he'd use even thinner material the next time, so perhaps, as you suggest, some silk handkerchief or tissue material.  I still like the idea of doing furled sails with something like that.  In doing a quick search, I see that Bob Hunt (Lauck Street Shipyard) has a tutorial, as well, on making silkspan sails, and there is at least one MSW thread (this one from April 2021) on silkspan sails.  Thanks for that suggested option, Bill!

 

With that said, I also agree with John's comment that placing the ship on a launching way display would not be right with the masts, sails (furled or not), etc.  So... I'm thinking of perhaps some type of "ship at the dock" type of diorama?  Or, I'll just put it on two pedestals... 🤣🤣🤣

 

Again, thanks for the discussion and advice, guys! 

Edited October 15, 2023 by GGibson

[John Ruy]

3 hours ago, wmherbert said:

Have you considered using silkspan?

Yes, I have considered silk span. Definitely an option for a smaller scale. 
 

I like to use muslin materials, however the material in kits is usually too heavy. 
 

This photo shows two kit supplied “sail cloth” and a third locally sourced (JoAnn Fabrics) muslin fabric. Muslin fabrics are not all created equal. The bottom one is the locally purchased muslin. 

My goal is to create the full sail and fold it down as in the photos below, with all of the stitched and rope detail. 😎

If the sails won’t cooperate, then I’ll set sails up full with fair winds. I believe I can do this at this scale.
 

Wish me luck. 🍻
 

Edited October 16, 2023 by John Ruy

[GGibson]

46 minutes ago, John Ruy said:

My goal is to create the full sail and fold it down as in the photos below, with all of the stitched and rope detail. 😎

If the sails won’t cooperate, then I’ll set sails up full with fair winds. I believe I can do this at this scale.
 

Wish me luck. 🍻
 

You are ahead of me in your build, so I will be paying attention!  👍☘️

[John Ruy]

7 minutes ago, GGibson said:

You are ahead of me in your build, so I will be paying attention!  👍☘️

We got a ways to go before we can set those sails. 
 

Cheers 🍻 

[John Ruy]

On second thought… I will probably go for all the glory of my inspiration photo. I have looking at this photo on my bench for three years now. 

Steady as she goes… 🍻

[GGibson]

13 minutes ago, John Ruy said:

On second thought… I will probably go for all the glory of my inspiration photo. I have looking at this photo on my bench for three years now. 

 

Sweet!  Awesome picture! 

[hamilton]

Your Bluenose is shaping up beautifully, Gregg - I love the idea of the furled sails - I feel like I read a tutorial on fabricating furled sails somewhere - either on here or in the article database of the Nautical Research Guild home page - I'll see if I can't locate this or something and pass it on.

hamilton

[GGibson]

A few more small updates...  As mentioned previously, I gave the hull several "seal coats" using the Minwax Wipe-On poly.  Nice and shiny!

 

 

Before sealing the deck and some of the box structures, I needed to finish the skylight.  As I did with the other boxes, I used some 1/16" thick basswood sheet stock for the base, the walls and the top.  As I've done on the other deck structures, I added some scrap stock to the inside corners for stability.  Stained the base and top and painted the walls white.  Drilled a 3/32" hole in the port and starboard sides. 

 

 

It was now time to position all of the deck structures completed so far on the deck, get them glued down, and seal everything.  Made sure everything set nicely to the contour of the deck, and PVA'd each structure in position.   Two coats of Minwax Wipe-On Poly were brushed on here, as it was hard to get into some of the tighter areas.  All in all, looked pretty sharp.

 

 

Now it's time to knock out some of the smaller deck pieces...

 

Fore Boom Sheet Buffer - I had already done the main BSB when putting in the aft main rail, because of the tight space underneath and, at the time, had cleaned up and painted the fore BSB cast metal piece black with the gold ring on top.  So, just needed to assemble the laser cut pieces for the little shelf that covers the BSB.  Painted the shelf white, drilled holes in the deck close to the great beam, inserted the Boom Sheet Buffer, and glued the shelf above it.

 

 

Main Boom Crutch - Laser cut piece for the vertical stand.  The base was made from a 1/16" x 7/32" piece cut 3/8" long.  Drilled partial 1/16" holes for the notches in the bottom of the stand to sit in when assembled.  Stained the base and painted the stand white.  Glued the base to its location on the deck behind the wheel box and in front of the main rail, but will not place the stand into the base until later, as it would be a prime candidate for getting knocked over by an errant arm swing while doing other things on this busy deck.

 

 

Bilge Pumps - I flattened the bottom of these castings with my Dremel, drilled a hole in the bottom and inserted a 1/32" brass rod to make it easier to secure to the deck.  Dropped in some white distilled vinegar to clean, then primed them and painted black.  Drilled holes in deck and used CA glue to fix onto deck.

 

 

Quarter Bits - Used 1/8" square stock. Although plans mention using wood, I decided to use brass rods and keep them brass colored.  Also placed 1/32" brass rods in the bottom to help secure to deck.  

 

 

Galley Stack - Same as the bilge pumps, I cut off the bottom piece of the Britannia casting using the Dremel to make it flat, and drill a hole for a brass rod.  Cleaned, primed and painted black.

 

 

Stern & Bow Chocks - Cleaned, primed, painted black and placed using CA glue.

Main Sheet Lead Block Horse - Used brass rod, drilled holes just in front of main boom sheet buffer and behind main boom crutch base.

Jumbo Jib Sheet Traveler Horse - Same procedure as the Main sheet horse above.  This one sits just ahead of the fore deck mast hole.

 

A few fun little pieces to knock out.  Next projects will be to assemble the fife rail and to work on the catheads.  From what I have read on others' build logs, the catheads could be a challenge.  

 

Always appreciate the drop-in peeks, likes and comments.  The advice I have received so far has been awesome and much appreciated.  Supposed to be in the 70s in Kansas City for the next week or so, so may try to get outside around the yard before it gets colder heading towards late fall and... ugghhh... winter.  

[John Ruy]

35 minutes ago, GGibson said:

Jumbo Jib Sheet Traveler Horse - Same procedure as the Main sheet horse above.  This one sits just ahead of the fore deck mast hole.

Beautiful work! Looks like you are making great progress. You did it again, thought I was done with the deck but forgot the Jumbo Job Sheet Traveler Horse. I thought I triple check those drawings. 😜 Lots of details to capture. I’m going to fix that right now. Thanks

[GGibson]

Ha! Yeah, I'm sure I'm going to forget a necessary eyebolt somewhere that will be critical for rigging and will be a PITA to get to as the deck gets "busier"... <forehead slap> 

[Fubarelf]

2 hours ago, GGibson said:

A few more small updates...  As mentioned previously, I gave the hull several "seal coats" using the Minwax Wipe-On poly.  Nice and shiny!

 

 

Before sealing the deck and some of the box structures, I needed to finish the skylight.  As I did with the other boxes, I used some 1/16" thick basswood sheet stock for the base, the walls and the top.  As I've done on the other deck structures, I added some scrap stock to the inside corners for stability.  Stained the base and top and painted the walls white.  Drilled a 3/32" hole in the port and starboard sides. 

 

 

It was now time to position all of the deck structures completed so far on the deck, get them glued down, and seal everything.  Made sure everything set nicely to the contour of the deck, and PVA'd each structure in position.   Two coats of Minwax Wipe-On Poly were brushed on here, as it was hard to get into some of the tighter areas.  All in all, looked pretty sharp.

 

 

Now it's time to knock out some of the smaller deck pieces...

 

Fore Boom Sheet Buffer - I had already done the main BSB when putting in the aft main rail, because of the tight space underneath and, at the time, had cleaned up and painted the fore BSB cast metal piece black with the gold ring on top.  So, just needed to assemble the laser cut pieces for the little shelf that covers the BSB.  Painted the shelf white, drilled holes in the deck close to the great beam, inserted the Boom Sheet Buffer, and glued the shelf above it.

 

 

Main Boom Crutch - Laser cut piece for the vertical stand.  The base was made from a 1/16" x 7/32" piece cut 3/8" long.  Drilled partial 1/16" holes for the notches in the bottom of the stand to sit in when assembled.  Stained the base and painted the stand white.  Glued the base to its location on the deck behind the wheel box and in front of the main rail, but will not place the stand into the base until later, as it would be a prime candidate for getting knocked over by an errant arm swing while doing other things on this busy deck.

 

 

Bilge Pumps - I flattened the bottom of these castings with my Dremel, drilled a hole in the bottom and inserted a 1/32" brass rod to make it easier to secure to the deck.  Dropped in some white distilled vinegar to clean, then primed them and painted black.  Drilled holes in deck and used CA glue to fix onto deck.

 

 

Quarter Bits - Used 1/8" square stock. Although plans mention using wood, I decided to use brass rods and keep them brass colored.  Also placed 1/32" brass rods in the bottom to help secure to deck.  

 

 

Galley Stack - Same as the bilge pumps, I cut off the bottom piece of the Britannia casting using the Dremel to make it flat, and drill a hole for a brass rod.  Cleaned, primed and painted black.

 

 

Stern & Bow Chocks - Cleaned, primed, painted black and placed using CA glue.

Main Sheet Lead Block Horse - Used brass rod, drilled holes just in front of main boom sheet buffer and behind main boom crutch base.

Jumbo Jib Sheet Traveler Horse - Same procedure as the Main sheet horse above.  This one sits just ahead of the fore deck mast hole.

 

A few fun little pieces to knock out.  Next projects will be to assemble the fife rail and to work on the catheads.  From what I have read on others' build logs, the catheads could be a challenge.  

 

Always appreciate the drop-in peeks, likes and comments.  The advice I have received so far has been awesome and much appreciated.  Supposed to be in the 70s in Kansas City for the next week or so, so may try to get outside around the yard before it gets colder heading towards late fall and... ugghhh... winter.  

Looks great Gregg!  The small bits take a lot of time and make it seem like little progress is being made. I’ve been working on the main mast for over a week. Lots of details!

[GGibson]

A couple more progress updates... 

 

FIFE RAIL - Like many others' builds, the laser cut rail broke while trying to ream out the holes for the stanchions.  So, I traced and cut a new one using the 1/16" stock board.  I used the Proxxon bench drill press to ensure the holes were cut straight, since there was so little space to work with.  Primed and painted all the pieces white, except for the top bar, which I stained in order to give a bit of a color contrast.  As I have done on other deck furnishings, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the posts, not only to help hold while painting, but also to provide a more secure fit on the deck when it comes time to glue onto the deck.  I did shave off the bottom stubs of the stanchions that were designed to fit into holes in the deck.  I'll simply glue the bottoms to the deck.  I need to add the snatch blocks to the sides of the posts still.  Also, I noticed that I need to add a belaying pin just in front of the boom crutch.  Not sure if we've got enough room to do that without breaking the bar!  As others have done, I will hold off on permanently installing on deck until the main mast is placed.  

 

        

 

Samson Post & Bowsprit Bitts - This was pretty straight-forward.  The laser-cut platform had a super narrow and fragile outer edge, that I was sure would break during the construction.  Fortunately, though, it survived!  Everything else (post, bitts & support blocks) was cut from stock, and came together ok with no breaks.  Glued, sanded, primed, final sanding and paint (Picture is prior to painting).  Again, placed a small brass rod in bottom of samson post for securing to deck.  Plans call for a square hole on the post under the platform for the heel of the bowsprit.  I decided to just drill a hole and I will support the bowsprit with (another) brass rod in the end of the bowsprit when it comes time to work on it and install.  

 

 

Engine Box & Clutch Cover Box - Once again, another couple box builds.  Cut all sides and top covers from 1/16" stock sheets and supported the inside corners with 1/8" square strips.  Marked the locations for the lever opening, chain opening and shaft opening on clutch cover box. Drilled holes to start and then opened more and squared (as best I could) using files.  Glued the clutch cover box to the side of the engine box, sanded, filed, primed and painted all.  As it appears in the Nova Scotia Archives pictures, eyebolts were placed on the backside of the engine box.  Also need to work on the top cover hinge replication that others have also done.  I am still horrible at soldering!  Think I may have mentioned previously that I am trying the resistance soldering technique.  The brass strips that I soldered need to be cleaned up a bit.  We'll see how I do with that and then I will add to the top cover of the engine box.

 

            

 

Chain Box - Another box construction, but this one is a bit different, as it is lower on one side in order for crew to store and access chain, and since it is open, it has a visible bottom.  Rather than painting this white, I decided to stain this chain box darker, again as it appeared in the Nova Scotia Archives pictures.

 

     

 

Working now on all of the remaining machinery fittings and structures (windlass, etc.).  Once these are all complete, I will work on how these are all positioned on the deck, add the chain, etc.  Pretty exciting and intimidating all in all.  

Edited October 27, 2023 by GGibson

[hamilton]

Great work on these details - with these delicate laser cut parts, I've learned to finish them while they're still attached to the billets and then add a light coat of varnish to strengthen them before subjecting them to any kind of mechanical agitation.....scratching these parts (not always a possibility for all modellers) allows you to trace the pattern and drill the holes out before cutting out the shape (which still must be done quite carefully, but reduces breakage as well, especially with more open-grained woods like basswood). 

 

Regardless, great progress Gregg! Looking nice!

hamilton

[GGibson]

3 minutes ago, hamilton said:

...with these delicate laser cut parts, I've learned to finish them while they're still attached to the billets and then add a light coat of varnish to strengthen them before subjecting them to any kind of mechanical agitation....

 

Wow... Excellent plan, hamilton! One of those "why didn't I do that sooner" ideas.  Appreciate the awesome advice!  That may be warranted when I get to working on the mast hoops, as well.

 

 

[hamilton]

Definitely! Since I haven't been building from the kit, I don't have any of the laser cut billets so had to make all these parts myself - the strategy described above was definitely helpful when making the boom rest for the foremast, as well, which also has belaying pins arrayed around it.

hamilton

[GGibson]

1 hour ago, hamilton said:

Definitely! Since I haven't been building from the kit, I don't have any of the laser cut billets so had to make all these parts myself...

 

Have been admiring your scratch build and referring to your Bluenose quite often.  Thanks!

[GGibson]

A small update, but an update, nonetheless... Time to get the windlass and other machinery placed on the deck.  While everything was pretty straight-forward, it was definitely tedious, small-scale work.  First thing I needed to do, though, as a pretty new ship modeler who had no real nautical experience, I needed to familiarize myself with the total operation of the windlass, how it affects the anchoring, hoisting the sails, hoisting cargo, etc.

 

As I began this Bluenose build, another local builder whom I had met at a KC-area club meeting provided me with several books from his library.  One of those was Bluenose II - Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners by L.B. Jenson.  Others here on MSW have mentioned this book in some of their posts.  In this book, the author discusses details of not only the Bluenose II, but the original Bluenose 1921.  On pages 54-55 of the book, he has descriptions and drawings of the windlass and associated machinery, and the working anchors and cables.  Very interesting and informative! (My apologies for any blurry photo shots.)

 

 

      

 

 

All of the kit-provided cast metal pieces were in pretty good shape.  Just needed some cleaning.  The chain whelp side of the windlass barrel was lined with 1/64" brass strips using CA glue.  The wood whelp side of the windlass was a little more tricky, as it was fitted with some very small pieces of 1/16" & 3/32" square strips, and it took a few tries to get something that looked decent enough to call good.  The counter shaft assembly and the other winch machinery, including the arch that will make up the jumbo jib boom crutch, all came together pretty well.  I also added the brake beam to the top of the bowsprit and added, as best I could, a thin brass rod from the brake beam down to the quadrants attached to the windlass barrel.  Before it got too tight and busy on the deck for me to do it, I also added the claw chain stopper to the port side of the samson post, as was shown in Mr. Jenson's book.

 

            

 

In order to simulate the gear chain on the windlass, I opted to not take any jewelry from my wife's jewelry box... I'M JOKING!... and I purchased some of the Mantua black chain that Model Expo had advertised on their website.  This chain is approximately 24 links/inch.  In reading what would be appropriate size chain for a 1:64 scale project like the Bluenose, I saw somewhere in the 22-24 links per inch range.  The chain is definitely tiny, but didn't want the chain to look oversized on the deck, as I will also use this chain for the anchors and a display of a few flakes on the deck and in the chain box.  Hopefully, it will look good.

 

            

 

So... working on the anchors is probably the next thing on my Bluenose to-do list.  Again, the aforementioned book by Mr. Jenson, on page 55, discusses working anchors and cables, their normal stowage positions, and how the cathead is shifted from port to starboard, depending on whether the club anchor or fishing anchor is prepared to be let go.  Again, very interesting and informative. 

Edited November 3, 2023 by GGibson

[John Ruy]

WOW! Nice progress on those detailed deck items. Thanks for the reminder, I actually have a copy of that book. Just found it, I had forgotten it was under other reference materials. Looks like lots of good info on rigging. We will need it when we start tying knots. 🧐

 

I like how your windlass come out, good job. 👍

[GGibson]

Thanks, John! Plenty of great build logs to refer to, as well, including your current progress! 👍

 

And, yes, some great info/drawings on shrouds and rigging in the book.  Will definitely be researching more.

 

I mentioned working on anchors and cathead next, but I still need to put the chainplates in, so better do that before I knock the crap out of a cathead while drilling for the brass strip slots.  I'm sure I had a valid reason for waiting until now to do these chainplates and deadeyes... <eyeroll>