Cutty Sark by VitusBering - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC - Abandoned

[Knocklouder]

Yes that's what I wanted to say lol  

[Ian_Grant]

3 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

 

I forgot to mention that successive seizings move gradually further aft as the shrouds move higher up the mast, to keep things neat. It's noticeable in the picture.

[VitusBering]

I'll give this a go. Keeping it tidy will be a challenge but that's a big part of why I got into this in the first place. Thanks again!

[VitusBering]

Ok, shrouds are tied off, and thank you all for your help. Now, though, I think I have more questions.

I am about half way up the ladder on the port side mizzen lower set of shrouds, and the ratlines actually look pretty good so far.

 

However, I've also been reading around this site and found that an overwhelming number of folks say to not use CA on the ratline ends - or, frankly, anywhere visible. I think I agree, I've used CA to seal the deal on seizing and I am not happy with the result. But, done is done.

 

I don't want to use CA on the ratlines but I don't know how to thin PVA.

I do know I'm supposed to use water but... is there a magic ratio? What should the resulting consistency be?

 

Also, too... should only the end knots (currently single overhand) be daubed with adhesive or the clove hitches as well?

Edited April 3, 2023 by VitusBering
More questions

[hof00]

On 4/3/2023 at 1:14 PM, VitusBering said:

Ok, shrouds are tied off, and thank you all for your help. Now, though, I think I have more questions.

I am about half way up the ladder on the port side mizzen lower set of shrouds, and the ratlines actually look pretty good so far.

 

However, I've also been reading around this site and found that an overwhelming number of folks say to not use CA on the ratline ends - or, frankly, anywhere visible. I think I agree, I've used CA to seal the deal on seizing and I am not happy with the result. But, done is done.

 

I don't want to use CA on the ratlines but I don't know how to thin PVA.

I do know I'm supposed to use water but... is there a magic ratio? What should the resulting consistency be?

 

Also, too... should only the end knots (currently single overhand) be daubed with adhesive or the clove hitches as well?

Hi Chap,

I use clear Nail Varnish on my Ratline knots and Siesing. (Cheap and the bottle lasts for ages.)

In my mind, CA for these is just too unforgiving, not to mention the "Bulk" of the stuff when it dries.

(Unscented 🙂)

 

(Try off-ship perhaps?)

 

If there is an error itis Faily simple to remove.

 

Cheers....HOF.

[VitusBering]

57 minutes ago, hof00 said:

Hi Chap,

I use clear Nail Varnish on my Ratline knots and Siesing. (Cheap and the bottle lasts for ages.)

In my mind, CA for these is just too unforgiving, not to mention the "Bulk" of the stuff when it dries.

(Unscented 🙂)

 

(Try off-ship perhaps?)

 

If there is an error itis Faily simple to remove.

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Thank you very much Harry. That sounds like an even better solution than PVA (I worry about the knots holding with that stuff).

I'll give this a try (off-ship first as you suggest). It sounds very promising.

 

I totally agree with you on all counts about the CA.

[hof00]

No worries.

A long time ago, i tried the diluted White Glee, personally, I was not happy with the result.

Give the Nail Varnish a go and see what you think.

 

(Off ship for experimentation.... And Unscented. 🙂)

 

Cheers....HOF

[gak1965]

I use thick CA on all the knots. Use a fine applicator (fresh bottles of Bob Smith glue have really fine ones). Try not to glop it on, you just want to stabilize them. The thicker stuff takes longer to cure, more time to fix things in my view. 

 

Std. disclaimer,

George K

[VitusBering]

Thanks George - though I'm leery of using CA in any form on the ratlines. I've used it on shrouds and on seizing and I really don't like the look of it.

I do apply it very sparingly but it does seem to sort of crystallize for lack of a better description.

 

I am going to experiment off-ship with Harry's suggestion of clear nail polish but I suspect that will leave quite a sheen.

It is what it is designed to do, after all ;-).

I think I may be able to counteract any shininess with paint - we'll see.

Edited April 4, 2023 by VitusBering

[hof00]

9 hours ago, VitusBering said:

Thanks George - though I'm leery of using CA in any form on the ratlines. I've used it on shrouds and on seizing and I really don't like the look of it.

I do apply it very sparingly but it does seem to sort of crystallize for lack of a better description.

 

I am going to experiment off-ship with Harry's suggestion of clear nail polish but I suspect that will leave quite a sheen.

It is what it is designed to do, after all ;-).

I think I may be able to counteract any shininess with paint - we'll see.

Hi Chap,

I found no perceptible "Sheen" with Nil Varnish at all.

It penetrates the thread and sets up very quickly. You only require a tiny drop for each knot.

You should find that the individual Ratlines remain flexible, i.e they droop slightly between the Shrouds.

 

I think I mentioned prior that if there's an error, you should be able to remove the offending thread twithought having to rework entire Shroud Gangs.

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

[VitusBering]

After much soul-searching, wringing of hands, lots of spirited discussions with my better half, and a cascade of disheartening setbacks in the build process, I have reluctantly decided to abandon this build.

 

The model is probably salvageable but frankly I don't want to try. It isn't mortally wounded per se but I did accidently knock loose a couple of spars and I also inadvertently cut more than one ratline shroud while trimming excess rope. The reasons I am not excited about devoting time and effort into repairing and continuing this build are many and varied.

 

Top of the list is that I'm very unhappy with the paint. The pigments are awful (I mean baby diaper color awful), the Revell brand of paints are not consistent and regularly unusable right out of the box. Some other paint problems are of my own making such as using a brush where an airbrush would produce far more pleasing result.

 

There is more, of course. I have over twenty pages of notes about what to do and what not to do for the next build.

Blackening brass instead of painting it, heeding other builders' advice more diligently (!!!), severely restrict my use of CA glue, and a host of others.

Many of the mistakes I've made I've done by being too hasty and forging ahead in areas where I knew I needed to study first.

The kit has flaws, to be sure, but they're generally well known and examples of overcoming them are common in these build logs.

 

I've already ordered two new kits (both are the 2017 05422 version). I've also ordered a cherry-picked subset of HiSModel accessories - some I've consumed in this build and some that I think I may need more.

 

I haven't decided on paint yet - I'm leaning toward Vallejo but that's not carved in stone yet.

 

I feel quite badly about this, mostly because I feel I've somehow let you folks down. I know that's not the case still the feelings persist.

I hope you all know you have been and I'm certain will continue to be an incredibly invaluable resource and source of inspiration and enlightenment.

 

I don't know what to do with this build log. My inclination is to delete it but I don't know what the rules or protocols are for this sort of situation.

I will certainly begin a new build log when I embark on round two, but I am unsure of when that will begin.

[Bob Fraser]

Darryl- sorry to see this, accidents happen and if you're not happy with it then it's your choice of what to do.  My own = unlogged = build is abandoned for much the same reasons (damaged by cats  knocking it off its shelf several times and losing pieces, bad paint)  but at a lesser point than yours.

Leave the log as it is, but amend the title with "Abandoned" on the end.  Let it act as a positive reference - there's lots of useful info in there.

I've enjoyed watching along and will look forward to following your new build when you feel ready.

All the best,

[rwiederrich]

Sorry to hear.  But it is your build and you are the Master of its direction.

I can understand the trepidation you may be feeling...as you are learning and developing your skills......all on the same model.

 

This can be positively looked at as a Test bed model....one where you learn technique.....hone your skills and develop new and better ways to create a model you are satisfied with.

Don't look at it as a failure....because you have not failed....you have learned.  And surely do not worry about any of us....we are merely observers as you travel this road on your modeling adventure.

 

I'm looking forward to your next log.

 

Rob

[VitusBering]

Thank you all again for your kind words and support. I will re-name this build log to append the abandonment and will start a new one when it gets properly under way.

 

[edit] I am unsure how to change the build log title. The only action available seems to be to delete the log. I'll try messaging one of the moderators to see about other options.

Edited April 12, 2023 by VitusBering

[hof00]

6 hours ago, VitusBering said:

Thank you all again for your kind words and support. I will re-name this build log to append the abandonment and will start a new one when it gets properly under way.

 

[edit] I am unsure how to change the build log title. The only action available seems to be to delete the log. I'll try messaging one of the moderators to see about other options.

Hi Chap,

Sorry to see this abandoned.

Couldn't agree more with the two comments above so have no sage advice as it has already been said.

 

On a positive note, I am really looking forward to your next buildf log, I hope this will be soonish!!!

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[gak1965]

One thought. You might want to keep the model around as a practice version (a test bed as Rob calls it) that you can use to try things out and make mistakes. You might therefore consider building up one mast all the way up so that you'll have a baseline going into the new build. Something to think about.

 

Good luck whatever you decide.

George K

[VitusBering]

2 hours ago, hof00 said:

Hi Chap,

Sorry to see this abandoned.

Couldn't agree more with the two comments above so have no sage advice as it has already been said.

 

On a positive note, I am really looking forward to your next buildf log, I hope this will be soonish!!!

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

Thank you very much Harry. The new kits are scheduled to arrive on the 20th, bit more than a week from now, nominally. I can at least start a new log then, but only trivial prep work will get done as I need to wait on delivery of other stuff. I'm in no hurry though (item number four on my list of things not to do). Thank you again!

[VitusBering]

1 hour ago, gak1965 said:

One thought. You might want to keep the model around as a practice version (a test bed as Rob calls it) that you can use to try things out and make mistakes. You might therefore consider building up one mast all the way up so that you'll have a baseline going into the new build. Something to think about.

 

Good luck whatever you decide.

George K

 

Thanks George. My wife suggested a Viking funeral and I must confess the notion was attractive.

But, I did salvage what I could from the carcass and I did keep it (in a trash bag because I don't want to see it).

If I feel it will help, I'll un-bag it and have a look when the need arises.

Thank you for your advice and kind words.

[Bob Fraser]

Hi Darryl

I knew I had this somewhere you jogged my memory with the mention of paints.

Don't know if it's any use to you - 

It's a Revell specific  "how to"   by a builder who doesn't give a name, I just can't recall where I picked it up from, and gives the paints (NOT Revell!) and methods he uses, also variations from the Revell instructions.

Cutty Sark.pdf

 

Cheers,

[VitusBering]

Thank you Bob - this will prove very valuable. I'm shopping for paints as I write this, no decision yet except to avoid Revell.

Several other brands seem reasonably attractive. I am leaning heavily toward staying with acrylic paints because of the convenience but enamels are still an option. The instruction variations feel familiar - but I have my own approaches using a combination of techniques "borrowed" from other build logs here and some of my own invention.

 

One of the biggest deviations from my aborted attempt is to not assemble most things until absolutely necessary. Everything, from the hull proper to masts, spars, pin rails, even deck gear - everything - need to be carefully cleaned, trimmed, and examined / prepared for subsequent steps. I'll also heed far more closely advice from experts here. I am confident this time around will be far better.

 

Kits have been shipped, arriving soon. I'll need to wait longer for some of the accessories - the Czech Republic is a ways away 😉

 

I'll have tons of questions before I even open the boxes. For instance, I'm considering priming every part - the hull and the sprues in their entirety.

Is that a good idea or no?

[Bob Fraser]

My plastic building days are long behind me, so I'm just about starting from scratch again nearly 40 years later, setting a little time aside each day when possible.

7 hours ago, VitusBering said:

Everything, from the hull proper to masts, spars, pin rails, even deck gear - everything - need to be carefully cleaned, trimmed, and examined / prepared for subsequent steps

Something I was very guilty of - rushing in the "need" to get things done fast and the model finished. One thing this forum has taught me is that it isn't a race 🐌 🐢 🐇, but a hobby.

 

7 hours ago, VitusBering said:

I'm considering priming every part

Definately the hull when put together and fit issues sorted, probably the deck, maybe the other bits if it won't cover the detailing.

Not to mention the washing in soapy water first!

7 hours ago, VitusBering said:

I'll also heed far more closely advice from experts here.

Me too. One thing that wasn't around years ago, and one of the greatest sources to enable as much detail as wished for in any model.

All the best

[Cirdan]

I really enjoyed following this build log and would like to say that I really liked the result. I understand your reasons for abandoning this build and I wish you good luck for your new project, which I will follow with great interest. 

[VitusBering]

Thank you Cirdan, you're very kind.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  "Much of the satisfying work of life begins as an experiment, and no experiment is ever quite a failure."  Alice Walker 1944 -

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   BTW mate,  try to salvage stuff for use elsewhere ... like those nice 3D brass stanchions !

[gak1965]

On 4/14/2023 at 7:01 PM, VitusBering said:

I'm considering priming every part - the hull and the sprues in their entirety.

Is that a good idea or no?

I wouldn't., For two reasons. If you prime the sprues, when you cut off the part you will have a chunk that is unprimed and it could look a little weird after you paint it (I'm thinking of a sort of hole where the sprue was and you have an extra layer of paint). 

 

My observation with Revell plastic is that it takes paint well, and you generally aren't in the situation (as I've seen with Heller) where the final color is say black, and it's molded in white, or vice versa. This drove me nuts with the Passat. YMMV, but with the Revell Constitution and Testors paints, no priming was necessary. I bushed everything (including the copper) and there was no problem. Also, FWIW, I've seen people use paint pens to get at fine details on unprimed Revell plastic with no fuss.

 

Something to think about. Good luck!

 

George K

 

PS: Do log the next build! Your first one was coming along great and it can be so helpful to be able to ask questions. I wouldn't be near as far along without the helpful comments.

[VitusBering]

Thank you George, these are definitely things to consider. Your advice and others have convinced me that priming the sprues is probably a bad idea.

I primed the hull the first time around and it didn't seem to make much of a difference.

I am not going to brush many parts at all - it is unavoidable in some cases but brushes and I do not get along at all.

I'll airbrush every part I possibly can.

 

I will clean all parts well with a mild solution of dish soapy water and also clean them with IPA just before painting - all the while wearing gloves and using surgical-room clean instruments. Ok, that's overkill but the general idea is to be really careful about oils and other contaminants.

 

As for Testors paints, I'm still on the fence about enamel - I am leaning that way though. Cleanup is a big pain and that's a factor, as is drying time but adhesion, color selection, durability, and great airbrush performance are definite selling points for enamel.

 

A paint pen may come in handy. I've seen them advertised but never used one. I'll keep it in mind if tricky situations arise.

 

Thank you very much for your kinds words and support.

[VitusBering]

2 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

   BTW mate,  try to salvage stuff for use elsewhere ... like those nice 3D brass stanchions !

 

One step ahead of you, my friend. I've salvaged about all I can from the carcass and leftover parts but I've saved it all. I unloaded the whole works from the trash bag I had it all in and transferred it to a box.

 

As for the stanchions, I've ordered a whole new set from HiSModel -- two in fact since Radimir packs just enough (with a single one as a spare).

I also got a couple more sets of brass belaying pins, too. I still have some unused ones but more is good, especially since I plan on blackening those.

I won't blacken the stanchions, I probably won't even paint them. Like you, am quite fond of the look despite it not being "right".

Edited April 16, 2023 by VitusBering

[gak1965]

I mostly use Tamiya acrylic paints now. They brush well and have a good range of colors. I've needed some odd colors, when Tamiya doesn't have it (or our store is out) I'll use Model Master acrylics  (which is made by Testors). The metal colored ones are (so far as I know) pretty much all enamel. I don't have an issue with using enamel on things like copper plate, since (when new) they are shiny anyway.

 

I can't speak to how well anything works in an airbrush, I've only ever brushed

[VitusBering]

Enamels (especially Testors) work really well in airbrushes.

 

Are the Tamiya acrylics you use the oil-based ones? I've heard they're good.

 

The main gripe I have with water based acrylics is instantaneous drying time.

It manifests in two very annoying ways.

 

First, a skin forms over it in a mixing container (again, almost instantaneously).

That skin has to be "scooted" out of the way (filtering doesn't work) before the underlying paint can be used in any way.

 

Second is tip clogging and granulation in airbrush use. The nozzles clog very quickly regardless of thinned consistency and the sprayed paint is very sensitive to the distance from the subject. One half an inch too far away and I get pebbles on the surface.

 

I've learned to deal with these annoyances, mostly, but they're still very aggravating.

 

I complain bitterly about Revell paints and they deserve it - they're the worst of the lot by far - but all acrylics (the water based ones, that is) have the same shortcomings. Revell compounds the problem with terrible quality control. I have said before, I have ostensibly brand new boxes of paint that are quite literally the consistency of peanut butter.