HMS Beagle by Capella - OcCre - 2nd build

[Capella]

Initial disclaimer: I just ordered the kit yesterday. For now, I thought I'd introduce myself, talk about my first build in terms of my experience with my first kit, about what I'm looking forward to for this second build.

 

My first build was the US Ranger by Corel (no build log). I actually bought it about 12 years ago, started it, got the deck planked and the first hull layer done. I then shelved it - mainly out of frustration - until COVID happened. Good time to get back into it! Unfortunately, for someone's first wood model ship experience, it was a hot mess: poorly translated and confusing instructions. inaccurate drawings, some of the pre-cut parts were cut in the wrong position. Case in point: the forward mast hole in the deck was too far back. Not realizing it at the time, I mounted the mast and when I got to placing the main sail, it was squeezed between the mast and the rigging. The blocks were just bad and I ended up buying my own. I also ran out of some planking, so I had to purchase that. There were a lot of steps that were logically out of order - especially for the rigging, forcing me to work around a lot of rigging that could/should have been done later.

But, through all of that, I learned a LOT. To go over EVERY step before getting started, make sure every part is there and is cut/manufactured right, do a lot of dry-mounting before gluing; plus I learned a lot of helpful tricks and strategies along the way. Fortunately, I had you guys to help me get through the challenges, and in the end, I'm proud of what I accomplished!

 

Looking for my second build, I wanted something equally challenging (but not challenging in terms of the poor quality of the kit itself), but made by a MUCH better company and with lots of resources to utilize. After hours of research I decided on the HMS Beagle purchased from OcCre and in my initial build log research I found NINE build logs, so I have a lot of resources to use from others' experiences with the same ship.

 

While I'm waiting for the kit to arrive (can anyone speak to how long OcCre's orders typically take to arrive? I live in Central MN, US.), I'm going to research the build logs available and maybe pop in a question here.

Looking forward to the kit arriving and getting started!

[RossR]

I ordered on Black Friday and got it in about 2 weeks.  I am near the Twin Cities, so not too far from you.   I think they are usually faster than that, but the volume of Black Friday had them a little backed up.

 

Good luck with your Beagle.  Finished mine a month or so ago.  

[Capella]

@RossRGood to know!

I grew up in Maplewood. Small world!

[Patrick B]

12 hours ago, RossR said:

I ordered on Black Friday and got it in about 2 weeks.  I am near the Twin Cities, so not too far from you.   I think they are usually faster than that, but the volume of Black Friday had them a little backed up.

 

Good luck with your Beagle.  Finished mine a month or so ago.  

I bought mine in black friday too. I started it a week or two ago. Feel free to go check it out.

[Capella]

10 hours ago, Patrick B said:

I bought mine in black friday too. I started it a week or two ago. Feel free to go check it out.

Mine just shipped today - no estimated delivery date yet.

 

Got your build log bookmarked - along with EIGHT other Beagle builds! Popular kit. But that just means more resources to have for us "follow-alongs"! 😉

[allanyed]

On 12/26/2022 at 11:41 AM, Capella said:

To go over EVERY step before getting started

Very good advice and maybe this should be carried even further.   Check everything against contemporary plans and models of the Beagle or other similar brigs of the same era if they are available to see what the kit provides and what you might want to change to something more realistic.   I am not talking about historical accuracy as everyone seems to have a different opinion of its relative importance, but little things like bowling pins used as belaying pins, realistic sails, realistic boats, et al.  The AOTS book on the Beagle by Karl Marquardt should be a great help as well. 

Allan

[allanyed]

Regarding boats, there are several new build logs here in the scratch build forum for building a 23 foot launch (from the Bounty archives).  The methods can be used for any boat, just need to use different plans to start which can be found at RMG Collections.  I big array of power tools is not required, and actually can be done with small tools, either power or hand tools.  I am guessing, but based on May's book on boats, Beagle likely carried at least three boats, maybe four or even five, including a 26 foot launch, 23 foot pinnace and two cutters, probably a 24 foot and 18 foot.   These can be fun projects in themselves.   

Allan

 

 

 

 

[Capella]

Okay, guys. Here goes!

 

My kit finally arrived today and I couldn't wait to get off work to jump in.

 

I'll spare you the pics of the box and the laid out templates, as there are plenty of those in the many Beagle build logs that have come before this.

 

I started out getting myself familiar with the plans (Wow! Full color instructions and a detailed parts list) and the templates and parts. I thought it was a nice bonus how the parts are packaged in the compartmentalized container. Definitely keeping that to store left over parts.

[Capella]

So, first step of course is the false keel and bulkheads. With page 1 of the plans and the bulkhead template in front of me I started marking the bulkheads with pencil according to the plans.

 

But while doing so, I ran into a speed bump: I was able to identify all of the keel & bulkhead parts except for bulkheads 4 through 9.

 

In the below image I indicated the bulkheads that I was able to identify. The other large six bulkhead pieces I have not been able to determine which is which. Some SEEM identical in size and shape, but I know they must change size as they go along the length of the ship. I looked all over the plans looking for something to help more accurately identify which bulkhead is which. I even checked out the video the plans link to and that didn't really help in this particular step at all.

 

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

UPDATE:

I thought I could possibly determine the position of each by measuring the extreme width of each unidentified bulkhead. I found that they are indeed of different widths. So, starting from the lower right bulkhead and moving clockwise to each of the unmarked bulkheads, measuring edge to edge the very top outside of each bulkhead, they are 10cm, 10.5cm, 10.7cm, 11cm, 11.15cm, and 11.3cm.

 

Would it be safe to assume that they go in order of narrowest to widest, from front to back?

Edited January 5, 2023 by Capella
Additional info

[RobTBay]

On the first pack of plan sheets with all the photo steps (on the back side of the 8th page) should be a page indicating all the part numbers on the wood sheets. The plan sheet is labeled “IP”.

 

Rob

[Capella]

7 minutes ago, RobTBay said:

On the first pack of plan sheets with all the photo steps (on the back side of the 8th page) should be a page indicating all the part numbers on the wood sheets. The plan sheet is labeled “IP”.

 

Rob

Well, I THOUGHT I looked through the entire plans!

 

Thanks much, Rob.

[Capella]

After finding the all-important template layout sheet, thanks to @RobTBay I mmarked everything and moved on to dry-fitting the bulkheads.

I noticed that the mast supports are quite loose and I'll have to make sure I keep them properly aligned according to the mast angle when I glue those.

 

But not now. Bed time.

 

Looking forward to getting back to it!

[Patrick B]

Hi Capella,

When gluing the bulkheads, try to push them to one side only, say right or left. This will make them stronger. Also, I used lego bricks to make them squared.

 

Patrick

[RossR]

41 minutes ago, Patrick B said:

Hi Capella,

When gluing the bulkheads, try to push them to one side only, say right or left. This will make them stronger. Also, I used lego bricks to make them squared.

 

Patrick

I agree with Patrick, Legos work great.  When I built HMS Beagle, I glued all the frame pieces at once and dry fitted the deck on to keep it square.  Not a route I would advise.  There on some pics of using the Legos to keep things square in my Frigate Diana build log if you want to take a look.

 

Ross

 

[Capella]

39 minutes ago, RossR said:

I agree with Patrick, Legos work great.  When I built HMS Beagle, I glued all the frame pieces at once and dry fitted the deck on to keep it square.  Not a route I would advise.  There on some pics of using the Legos to keep things square in my Frigate Diana build log if you want to take a look.

 

Ross

 

Whaaat?! You're stealing your kids' Legos for your own personal gain?? How atrocious! 😃

That's a great idea, though - if I had Legos! I get how that would definitely keep things square, though. I'll see if I can come up with another method.

I'm going to the store this evening to pick up some better PVA glue than what I currently have and was going to take a look at clamps - I'm sorely lacking in that area, too.

Thanks for the tip, @RossR and @Patrick B. Much appreciated.

[Capella]

One thing that comes to mind regarding keeping the bulkheads square and using @RossR and @Patrick B's method is one needs to keep in mind any shift in the parts of the bulkheads that protrude up to lock into the deck, that those stay aligned so as not to force bending of the bulkhead to align with those notches in the deck.

 

The way @RossR describes his experience with the Beagle, that almost sounds ideal, as that would keep those aligned in the way that I described above. I would think that dry-fitting the bulkheads, placing the deck on, and then gluing the bulkheads would be ideal, as the fact that the bulkheads lock into the deck would ensure that everything is aligned and square relative to each piece of bulkhead and the deck itself...

 

I'm by no means an expert - this is only my second ship, and there are plenty of people with decades of experience over me, so if I'm mistaken, please set me straight!

 

Thoughts, anyone?

Edited January 6, 2023 by Capella
Added text for clarity in my thoughts

[Patrick B]

In my own opinion, you shouldn't glue the deck before planking it because the strips will be more difficult to cut at the exact lenght.

You could still plank the deck, then glue it with the bulkheads.

 

By the way, if you want to glue the bulkheads before and you are strugling to find something square, try the leftovers from the laser cut pieces.

 

Patrick

Edited January 6, 2023 by Patrick B

[Capella]

1 hour ago, Patrick B said:

In my own opinion, you shouldn't glue the deck before planking it because the strips will be more difficult to cut at the exact lenght.

You could still plank the deck, then glue it with the bulkheads.

 

By the way, if you want to glue the bulkheads before and you are strugling to find something square, try the leftovers from the laser cut pieces.

 

Patrick

I'm glad you mentioned planking the deck first! I was so worried about getting the bulkheads square to the notches in the deck, that I forgot that the deck needs to be planked first.
 

Thanks, @Patrick B

[Capella]

Finally found some time to get back to work.

 

I just glued the bulkheads. I included the glue that I'm using - always a hot topic here. This is my first time using it, so I can't yet say whether I like it or not, but the set time is only 15 mins, vice regular Elmer's glue.

The stick in the foreground is a dowel that I cut and shaped the tip to make it easier to spread and transfer extra glue around those tight places. Pretty happy with that minor innovation! I'll probably end up making several of different sizes as I progress and come across different gluing situations.

 

I saw on another Beagle build log the use of a flat length of wood with clamps to hold the deck in place. Pretty good idea!

 

The deck isn't glued on at this point. That's next once the bulkhead glue is dry.

 

Next step: remove the clamps and deck, and plank it - the deck, not the clamps. 😉

[Alex-Ks1]

On 1/5/2023 at 10:00 PM, Capella said:

One thing that comes to mind regarding keeping the bulkheads square and using @RossR and @Patrick B's method is one needs to keep in mind any shift in the parts of the bulkheads that protrude up to lock into the deck, that those stay aligned so as not to force bending of the bulkhead to align with those notches in the deck.

 

The way @RossR describes his experience with the Beagle, that almost sounds ideal, as that would keep those aligned in the way that I described above. I would think that dry-fitting the bulkheads, placing the deck on, and then gluing the bulkheads would be ideal, as the fact that the bulkheads lock into the deck would ensure that everything is aligned and square relative to each piece of bulkhead and the deck itself...

 

I'm by no means an expert - this is only my second ship, and there are plenty of people with decades of experience over me, so if I'm mistaken, please set me straight!

 

Thoughts, anyone?

what I use is a aluminum  angel from the hardware store, then cut them in pieces to brace your bulks to the main frame with spring clips , always square and they will last a life time

 

[Capella]

Organized and labeled all of the planks and dowels:

Beagle build veterans, please read!

 

As it is now, I'm having a hard time reconciling the planks with the drawings and the parts list.

 

For instance, the first time you come across using any of the planks is planking the deck, which is indicated in the plans by A20, and in the Parts List A20's measurements are listed as 0.6 x 5 x 340, but after organizing everything by size (using a digital caliper), I don't have anything like that. The closest I have is 30+ pieces of white planks measuring .5 x 4 x 420. I assume, since the plans indicate to make the deck planks 60mm long, the overall length doesn't matter, but I just want to make sure that I use the right planks for each intended use.

 

I'd appreciate any advice on this.

 

Thanks!

[LucienL]

Hi Capella, great build so far, looking forward to seeing your progress. The planks you describe definitely seem like the ones that should be A20 (even just going by quantity) it's interesting that the dimensions are off though. Although, the 5 mm planks are probably too wide for scale so that might actually be a bonus (or they've improved the kit).

[Capella]

Keel, bulkheads, hull are done.

 

On to the deck planking!

[Capella]

23 minutes ago, LucienL said:

Hi Capella, great build so far, looking forward to seeing your progress. The planks you describe definitely seem like the ones that should be A20 (even just going by quantity) it's interesting that the dimensions are off though. Although, the 5 mm planks are probably too wide for scale so that might actually be a bonus (or they've improved the kit).

Okay. Really, I'm still getting used to reconciling the physical parts with what I'm seeing in the plans and parts list.

 

Thanks so much for your input and encouragement!

[The Gimps Chimp]

15 hours ago, Capella said:

Organized and labeled all of the planks and dowels:

Beagle build veterans, please read!

 

As it is now, I'm having a hard time reconciling the planks with the drawings and the parts list.

 

For instance, the first time you come across using any of the planks is planking the deck, which is indicated in the plans by A20, and in the Parts List A20's measurements are listed as 0.6 x 5 x 340, but after organizing everything by size (using a digital caliper), I don't have anything like that. The closest I have is 30+ pieces of white planks measuring .5 x 4 x 420. I assume, since the plans indicate to make the deck planks 60mm long, the overall length doesn't matter, but I just want to make sure that I use the right planks for each intended use.

 

I'd appreciate any advice on this.

 

Thanks!

Hi Capella,

 

I've just measured the wood I had in the kit for the deck planking, it measured 0.5 x 5 x 600.

 

In the parts list it mentions Sycamore, Lime wood and Sapele having a 0.5 x 5 cross-section.  Now I can't remember three types, only two types - one dark and one light.  Having said that it was quite some time ago now so may have been three  

 

Over the time of building this kit I have developed a love/hate relationship with the instructions (more hate than love dare I say).  The build logs on this site are a fantastic source of information to supplement the instructions and are a good way to rationalise the instructions.

 

Chimp

[RobTBay]

Hey Capella!

 

I just pulled out and measured the planks in my kit and they come out as 0.5mm x 5mm x 600mm (both the sycamore and the sapelli). The thickness being a little off from the parts list is probably not much of a concern (0.6 vs 0.5mm) for the purpose it's being used (deck planks, hull planks, etc.) ...it's not likely to throw any other measurement off. Although I don't know why you only have 4mm wide boards? But, as LucinL mentions, it might actually put you closer to being in scale with the prototype (but double check you are looking at the right material!).

 

The instructions assume you will put down a plank the full length of the main deck (about 340mm not 60mm lengths) and then put pencil marks every 60mm to represent the plank ends. Although, having said that, I'm considering actually cutting them to 60mm lengths (or whatever seems good for a prototype length) rather than using the pencil line approach.

 

The parts list can certainly be confusing, such as A20 (deck planks) are listed as 0.6x5x340 which would be to cut 340 mm lengths from the 600mm material (which is about right to plank the main deck). But then B11 (deck planks for the raised decks at the bow and stern) in the parts list states 0.6x5x400 ...which presumably means to cut 400mm pieces from the 600mm material in the box, except that 400mm is way too long to cover those two raised decks ...strips in the order of about 90mm and 70mm (combined about 160mm) might be adequate, not 400mm as in the parts list! [...sigh]

 

There is also potential confusion with species names. Common names of tree species vary a bit anyway, but then add in the usage difference between North America, Europe and Africa! Likely the kit is referring to the common names used in Europe (since it's a Spanish kit), but then throw in possible translation issues. I still believe there are a few typos in the parts list that refers to the wrong species (e.g. B7 is probably referring to sycamore not lime wood ...since there appears to be no 0.6x5mm lime wood ...assuming it even is lime wood!).

 

I've found I need to stop, take a deep breath, check and recheck measurements, double check which part I'm supposed to be dealing with and how the instructions really show how it is used ...then suddenly I can interpret the parts list! 🙂

 

By the way, did you notice that OcCre has a set of YouTube videos to accompany the build? That may be another way to help sort out the parts list issues ...assuming the guy in the video did it correctly! 😄

 

Your build is looking good so far. I've already had to make a minor backtrack due to a bit of lack of attention before leaving a bulkhead to set! 

 

Rob

 

[Capella]

2 hours ago, The Gimps Chimp said:

Hi Capella,

 

I've just measured the wood I had in the kit for the deck planking, it measured 0.5 x 5 x 600.

 

In the parts list it mentions Sycamore, Lime wood and Sapele having a 0.5 x 5 cross-section.  Now I can't remember three types, only two types - one dark and one light.  Having said that it was quite some time ago now so may have been three  

 

Over the time of building this kit I have developed a love/hate relationship with the instructions (more hate than love dare I say).  The build logs on this site are a fantastic source of information to supplement the instructions and are a good way to rationalise the instructions.

 

Chimp

Thanks, Chimp.

 

Yes, there are quite a few Beagle build logs here, and most have been done or started in just the past couple of years (and I read them all and took lots of notes while waiting for mine to arrive), so I have lots of resources to pull from here.

[Capella]

57 minutes ago, RobTBay said:

Hey Capella!

 

I just pulled out and measured the planks in my kit and they come out as 0.5mm x 5mm x 600mm (both the sycamore and the sapelli). The thickness being a little off from the parts list is probably not much of a concern (0.6 vs 0.5mm) for the purpose it's being used (deck planks, hull planks, etc.) ...it's not likely to throw any other measurement off. Although I don't know why you only have 4mm wide boards? But, as LucinL mentions, it might actually put you closer to being in scale with the prototype (but double check you are looking at the right material!).

 

The instructions assume you will put down a plank the full length of the main deck (about 340mm not 60mm lengths) and then put pencil marks every 60mm to represent the plank ends. Although, having said that, I'm considering actually cutting them to 60mm lengths (or whatever seems good for a prototype length) rather than using the pencil line approach.

 

The parts list can certainly be confusing, such as A20 (deck planks) are listed as 0.6x5x340 which would be to cut 340 mm lengths from the 600mm material (which is about right to plank the main deck). But then B11 (deck planks for the raised decks at the bow and stern) in the parts list states 0.6x5x400 ...which presumably means to cut 400mm pieces from the 600mm material in the box, except that 400mm is way too long to cover those two raised decks ...strips in the order of about 90mm and 70mm (combined about 160mm) might be adequate, not 400mm as in the parts list! [...sigh]

 

There is also potential confusion with species names. Common names of tree species vary a bit anyway, but then add in the usage difference between North America, Europe and Africa! Likely the kit is referring to the common names used in Europe (since it's a Spanish kit), but then throw in possible translation issues. I still believe there are a few typos in the parts list that refers to the wrong species (e.g. B7 is probably referring to sycamore not lime wood ...since there appears to be no 0.6x5mm lime wood ...assuming it even is lime wood!).

 

I've found I need to stop, take a deep breath, check and recheck measurements, double check which part I'm supposed to be dealing with and how the instructions really show how it is used ...then suddenly I can interpret the parts list! 🙂

 

By the way, did you notice that OcCre has a set of YouTube videos to accompany the build? That may be another way to help sort out the parts list issues ...assuming the guy in the video did it correctly! 😄

 

Your build is looking good so far. I've already had to make a minor backtrack due to a bit of lack of attention before leaving a bulkhead to set! 

 

Rob

 

Great info, Rob

 

I decided to go the route of cutting 60mm lengths to plank the deck and staggering them in the pattern shown in the plans. The method that the plans appear to do, laying down full lengths of planks and penciling in the lines, in my mind will just end up looking cheesy. Cutting them will take longer, but I know I'll be happier with it in the end.

 

I agree with your comments about the plans and parts list and how confusing they can be. I'm just going to take as long as I feel I need to to make sure I'm confident that what I'm using in a particular step is the right part.

[Patrick B]

Hi Capella, if you mesurer a plank 4 mm wide, you're correct!

The 5 mm also are, just try another strip that looks a bit wider.

Not all the strips are the same size (very small differences). 

Have a look from some of my remaining strips.

By the way, for the wood species type, I asked the same question on my log and someone told me that there is indeed a typo. Go look there, he'll probably explain it better than me.

[Capella]

41 minutes ago, Patrick B said:

Hi Capella, if you mesurer a plank 4 mm wide, you're correct!

The 5 mm also are, just try another strip that looks a bit wider.

Not all the strips are the same size (very small differences). 

Have a look from some of my remaining strips.

By the way, for the wood species type, I asked the same question on my log and someone told me that there is indeed a typo. Go look there, he'll probably explain it better than me.

Thanks. I'll check it out.

 

While organizing the planks and dowels, I used a digital caliper and noticed differences in widths varying by as much as a millimeter.