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Posted

I've used epoxy out to two years or so.  It may thicken a bit if it just sits around.  If that happens, take the top off and put it in the microwave in 10 second intervals.  One or two shots and it's good as new.  And remember, I use it for gas powered flying models that stress it far more than static models.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

It may be flea surgery, but you seem to have mastered it. That rudder and hardware look great.

Posted

Whew! I finished mounting the rudder. Thanks for the tip of doing the top & bottom hinge first. It really helped. I used a drop of crazy glue in each hinge and set the pin so it wouldn't keep falling out while I tried to mount it to the hull. Then I used a wood sliver as a wedge to keep the hull hinge full deflection so as to  make a tight fit while I nailed it. It worked. About every third nail bent and had to be pulled out.

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Posted
Posted

I'm starting on the bow area and discover that Constructo gives no detail instructions or detailed prints to follow. There are no pre-cut parts, so I have to figure out how to fabricate complex, curved  pieces out of a dozen straight planks. They give no start points....nothing....very frustrating since one mistake and I usually run into a problem down the road because I didn't size or place something right.

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Posted

Based on everything else you've done you'll do just fine.  We've all done our share of head-scratching convinced a particular step was impossible.  It's part of the joy of ship modeling !!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

I'm bending starter planks for the construction of the bowsprit. Also I'm rectifying the wrong angle of the transom by making filler planks to match the hull so the pre-cut windows will fit. I've been "chewing" on a way to do that, when it came to me today!

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Posted (edited)

Here's the port gallery window rough fitted to my fix for the forward part of the gallery. I just shaped hull planks to match the shape of the gallery so I could move the pre-cut windows forward. Now I just have to make a trapezoid shaped piece to compensate for the angle error I made with the transom.

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Edited by Hipexec
Posted (edited)

Here's the starboard side gallery fix so I can move the pre-cut window forward and make a small trapezoid shaped filler for the aft of the window to compensate for the angle error.

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Edited by Hipexec
Posted

Congrats on an ongoing beef with kits.  In many instances the castings never fit properly.  As a result many nices forget to fit the casting as they are working on their model.  You have thought ahead and are double checking the kit.

David B

Posted

Since Constructo gave me no detail plans to construct this very complicated bow area, I'm drawing my own. I don't want to glue something in place now and find out I made a big mistake down the road. I'm interpolating between their plans, my model, photos and a little "Kentucky windage".

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Posted

Now I'm putting my plan into play by constructing the bow area. It seems to be working out....we'll see. It's requiring a lot of bending to get stuff to fit the hull. The blond wood bends real easy, but the dark Sapele is like hardened steel. This framework gets covered with decorative scroll work.

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Posted (edited)

Hola Rich, when the wood is to hard to bend, like sapeli, the best thing is to cut to the desire shape, (probably gluing some pieces together before the cutting).  

 

Anyway, your bow looks very nice.

 

Saludos

Edited by Karleop
Posted

I managed to bend those small pieces and glue them in place. They are the anchor hawser reinforcing planks  I'll drill two 3mm holes in each side to take the anchor lines later.

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Posted

VARNISH?

 

Do any of you give your model a light coat of varnish before the ship is finished? Constructo's instruction book says nothing about it, but the pictures show a dramatic change in the finish right about the stage I'm at.

 

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Posted (edited)

Rich, this is just my personal opinion, but actual varnish is too shiny straight out of the can. It can be cut to satin/eggshell with steel wool but to me it seems like a lot of work on a ship. There are Polyurethane finishes that you can get in various sheens, many of the builders here seem to like the water based stuff, its water white and doesnt change color over the years. That is nice since once you stain it your color wont change when you apply the finish and it wont yellow over the years. 

 

When I finished my Enterprise I used a combination of shellack as a wash coat, stain, colored grain filler and then a mixture of boiled linseed oil and beeswax. As expected as the finish ages it is yellowing, I happen to like the effect, it looks antique-y to me. Beauty is in the eye as they say. 

 

Just my 2 cents

 

EDIT  - Keep in mind if you stain you will change the color of the blond wood also, for better or worse. If for some reason you have never stained before make sure ALL the glue is off your planking, the stain wont take there.

A water based clear will just enhance the the look. Best to make a sample board before you do anything. 

 

Sam

Edited by src

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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