USS Constitution by Hipexec - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:82

[dgbot]

On your skylight try some acitate for the windows.  It can be tinted or shaded as needed. 

David B

[mtdoramike]

If I can add something here, the wire doesn't look parallel to the other side of the hammocks. Please don't build a model the way it looks on the box or the look that the manufacture shows. Build the model or at least fit and finish the model THE WAY YOU WANT IT TO BE! Now, if you like that look, then by all means go with it. But to me, the Constitution is a model of a relevent ship that is still around today and the black and white finish is really expected on her. This is a model that will take you year(s) to finish, so why not try and make it as accurate to the real thing as you can. It would be a shame to spend all that time building her, only to regret not finishing her in her traditional colors. My first model was of the Constructo HMS Bounty, I finished it just like on the box, in natural wood look, which looks nice, but every time someone see's the Bounty they ask, why didn't you finish her like the replica Bounty, which recently sank or like the movie Bounty. So now, I do regret not thinking out of the box and finish her with the replica Bounty paint scheme rather than what the box had shown.  

[mtdoramike]

Oh and b y the way, you are doing a wonderful job of her.

[HIPEXEC]

I chose Constructo because I wanted a natural wood finish so all the difficult woodworking could be seen. It's a work of art as well as a piece of history. I took great care when planking the hull to avoid large patches of filler just so the hull would invite touching that beautiful wood. That's what I have so it would kill me  to paint it.

Edited June 26, 2014 by Hipexec

[HIPEXEC]

As far as the hammocks go, I'm rejecting my above experiment. It was worth a try.

[augie]

As is oft said here, it's Captain's choice on the model finish.  I can enjoy a wholly natural Constitution as I can one painted in the historically correct manner.

[HIPEXEC]

OUR WOODEN , HAND BUILT MODELS ARE A WORKS OF ART. THE INJECTION MOLDING REVELL MODELS ARE EXACTLY CORRECT, BUT NO WORKS OF ART.

[mtdoramike]

That is the one thing above the rest that I love about Constructo models, the choices of wood they use is above most other kits and if you want a natural finished model, Constructo is the way to go.

[Paul0367]

The heads are installed. The men of the USS Constitution all shouted...."Hooray!"

this is beautifully done, hats off stuff

[lambsbk]

I agree about the molded kits sort of...if we only glued them and nothing else...then they are simply a model. But we plastics guys DO put a lot more into our kits than glue. I believe they are a work of art when complete - but different than wood models. I look forward to trying wood on my next build.

[HIPEXEC]

My remarks weren't meant as a put down to plastic models....lord knows I've built many myself. They're just not the same as wood built.

[HIPEXEC]

HELP!

 

How do you drill multiple holes and keep them all lined up and equally spaced? Everytime I try the drill manages to take me off my line.

[lambsbk]

I am getting ready to tackle this problem as well. I had decided to find a saw blade with the teeth at the exact distance needed (or incremental distance) for the hole spacing and then get a second blade of the exact same size facing the first blade. Secure the piece being worked to the second blade and secure the first to the drill table. Then as you move the piece it will follow the teeth of the blade - in theory.

[dgbot]

If you had an x y table you could use that. What I have done is make a fixture to hold the part and marked out the holes with an awl or a pin. This made a spot that would hold the drill bit. Then I could drill out the part without the bit skipping.

David B

[HIPEXEC]

I've filled up a display case with plastic aircraft models that I flew over a long career of being a pilot. My favorite, which was my first model I built, is a "scratch built". It's the first helicopter I ever flew and I used the flight handbook for plans and used "Q" tips without the cotton for the frame, a ping pong ball for the cockpit, balsa wood block for the engine, paperclip for the tail rotor guard and pencil erasers for the wheels. I built this in 1963 and is has gotten beat up with all the moves I've made. The main rotor is missing and half the tail rotor.

[HIPEXEC]

Geoff,

I've restored that old beat up helicopter so many times I can't count. My kids used to play with it when I wasn't looking. My Connie keeps me too busy to even think about that.

[HIPEXEC]

Thanks for the drilling suggestions, but the double saw blade trick was the only simple solution that popped out at me. My Admiral would plotz if I bought a mini drill press for my Dremel just to drill 135 holes.

 

Any other simple suggestions? I'm thinking of a mini jig or something.

[HIPEXEC]

I pinned and glued the skylight in place. Constructo called for this installation, but now I have read that the skylight was a very late addition? Oh well.

 

I also installed the two compasses even though Constructo didn't provide for them.  I just fabricated them. The fife rail in the picture is not yet finished so it is not installed, only sits there for the picture.

[src]

Rich, looks good. What was your final method for drilling your holes on he rails? It looks like you got them pretty straight.

Sam

[HIPEXEC]

I'm making a jig of sorts to keep the alignment straight.

[HIPEXEC]

Slowly I'm getting the natural color back after my spray fiasco. I'm sanding with extra fine paper, scraping, rubbing. using thinner and a light coat of satin finish poly. The contrasts between the light and dark wood is returning.  I'm also getting the smoothness to return. Boy...I really made a mess for myself.

[HIPEXEC]

Finally I pinned and glued the fife rails.

[HIPEXEC]

If you look closely at the port side gunwale, you'll see some of the "frost" I missed from my spray adventure.

[HIPEXEC]

Here's my first attempt at a drilling jig. I'm using the reversed sticky tape to hold the wood and the straight edge ruler. The ruler is aligned down the center of the wood and I space the holes with markings on the ruler. So far, it looks good. I'll let you know if it works for 134 holes. 

[dgbot]

Rich, at that scale I would make a small jig. take a small strip of wood and mark out the distance you need.  Then take to pins or brass nails and put them through the distance.  The run it down the part as if you were using a compass.  The points from the pins will make a small divit in the wood and act as a guide.

David B

Edited June 28, 2014 by dgbot

[HIPEXEC]

Thanks Dave.

[HIPEXEC]

Constructo is interesting. Most everything they provide is with poor instructions and has to be scratch built. Except the small boat. It's a very un-imaginative hunk of aluminum casting and no instructions as to how to make it authentic. I'll do some research and create my own version. I see in most of your build logs you've scratch built the small boats, plank on bulkhead style

[augie]

You might also check here where Popeye the Sailor has planked and fitted out some pre-molded plastic boats:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2232-half-moon-by-popeye-billings-140-scale-kit/page-51

[Karleop]

Hola Rich, I had the same problem in some of the ships I build.  What I made was cover the metal with little strips of wood.  You can see post #4 that I sent to  Schnuu  in his Candelaria page

 

Saludos, Karl

[HIPEXEC]

Thanks Augie & Karl