Sharpie Schooner by Wookiewithacamera - FINISHED - Midwest Products

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 1

 

After the exhausting battle with the Lowell Grand Banks Dory, I've found myself at the shores of the long awaited Sharpie Schooner. 

 

I found this kit on eBay for 45$. It came in good condition, and unless I overlooked something; nothing is missing. I started labeling and removing bulkheads from the sheets, and moved on to the keel. After 2 hours of cutting away at the slots in the keel, I hadn't made much progress. Feels like I'm treading water. So I went to browse others' builds and saw no mention of any issues. It would appear that the laser failed to cut my keel, as I am essentially scratch slotting it. The lines are barely visible, and not showing on the back of the sheet. My hand has cramped so I'll be waiting to start back up tomorrow. While I was looking through Hopes' build she mentioned straightness of the keel and it's bulkheads. So I checked mine quickly. She has a small warp near the stern, just below what appears to be the... Tiller slot. F4, F1 and F2 all appear to have a very slight rock to them as well. Tomorrow I will soak these rather thick parts for a few hours, and then put weight on them while they dry.

 

[Wookiewithacamera]

On the current step the instructions ask for scribing illusionary plank detail on the deck. This model is 3/8"=1' so I guess that's 1:32?. I saw online in a YouTube video that it's pretty unanimous to never scribe planks, put in the work and plank it. My question is, since I am terrible at math, can I plank this deck without screwing up the flow of hull planking and bulwarks/gunwales and such later? Its asking for 3/16 wide plank scribes. I have 1/16 popsicle craft sticks and basswood sheets.

I followed a YouTube video and made a plank cutting jig at 40mm and 80mm so they stagger correctly. All pieces were trued up using my steel engineers square. 

Edited January 10, 2023 by Wookiewithacamera
Detail

[ccoyle]

Since the instructions call for scribing, that means that the supplied deck material is already the correct scale thickness. Adding a layer of popsicle sticks will make your finished deck too thick. If anything is to be added at all, it should be a very thin veneer (such planking is available if you shop around). I did scribing on my two Midwest kits, and it does not look bad. It is also pretty easy to do.

[Wookiewithacamera]

All I have is acrylic paints meant for airbrushing plastic and resin. Mostly Vallejo brand. I don't use anything oil or solvent based, as my work area is in the living room of my apartment, and there isn't a window nearby to set up a booth. I really wanted to get into airbrush for weathering models, but there's just no way to set up a booth here. Only top coats I have are Rust-Oleum clear matte rattle can. 😔 I recently found that all the frame pieces are slightly warped, so I soaked them and the keel for about 30-60 minutes. I've never worked with such thick wood before. When I took the pieces out and clamped them they were fine. But every time I unclamp them, if they sit open air for a few minutes they start blowing upwards at the edges. So I'm clamping again and probably going to have to leave them overnight. I have paint sticks and various clamps holding them down to the table. 

[GrandpaPhil]

I built this kit nearly 25 years ago.

 

It was the first wooden boat kit that I ever built.

 

I had a blast with it and learned a lot!

 

I used an ink wash on the deck after drawing in plank lines.

 

It worked reasonably well.

Edited January 11, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[thibaultron]

Leave the parts clamped for several days, so that they completely dry in the clamped position. I know that you want to get right back to the model, but you will waste much more time fighting the warps later. For scribing the deck, I use the tip of a razor saw drawn along a straight edge to grove the lines. Be careful to pull the tip so the grain of the wood pulls the tip into the straight edge. If it wanders out of line stop and run your finger nail over the mistake to flatten the wood back down. When done run a pencil along each line, erase any mistakes. Then sand lightly. A clear finish will seal everything (varnish, or even thin CA spread with a bit of cardstock). On my RC Warships, the Ca coating has held up over 30 years. Do the scribing before installing the deck.

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 2

 

Alol of the frame parts are still clamped while I wait to guarantee they are dry and straight. In the meantime I started working on the deck. As per recommendation, I opted not not to plank this deck, despite really wanting to. Instead I made a plank line jig, and started marking out the planks with a mechanical pencil. I eyeballed 3/16 using a caliper and made dots along the stern and bow. Trying to keep it as straight as possible I made the series of lines midship? Lengthwise along the LOA. (Overall length). Once that was done I used my makeshift jig to put further dots at staggering lengths starting at the stern, and connected them athwartship? Along the beam?(Across the width). This way not only are the length of planks indicated but so are individual staggered planks.

 

 

I did this using the suggestion from the book Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini. This method was meant for actual decking, but I adapted it for deck lines for the most realistic look. I plan to order some Ronseal Matt Varnish in Antique Pine for the deck. I will also try and deck clear or Dark Oak, for the hull. For this first schooner I want to stick to a more natural finish. As I have a bad history of paint jobs. Most of my models have been colored plastic, with added weathering to hide the fact it was lnt painted. My millennium falcon is the only model I attempted primer/paint before weathering. I've never had paint stick to my primers or my clear comes out opaque due to humidity outside when spraying. 

 

While using a flat file to sand and clean up frame slots on the keel, one broke. Frame slot 4. I attempted to glue it back on, as it broke with the grain. Seeing as the manual has me blocking and reinforcing frames later, I reinforced this first by glueing left over spacers from the Dory kit. 

(Keel clamped against a thick paint stick)

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 3

 

I've finally started assembly after dealing with warped bulkheads. I've been following @hopeful build for tips and images of how it's supposed to be. But Ive run myself into a corner, unsure of how to remedy it.

Following both instructions, Hopefuls logs, and tips from my book "ship building simplified"; I scribed and drew all plank lines and top coated the decking with 2 thin coats of polycrylic minwax. (I was hoping that it would darken the wood a tiny bit, for contrast to the planks. But it didn't. As I am too nervous to use minwax wood stain in my living room, as I have no respirator or ventilation.) However, this top coat flattened the curve in the deck. As you can see in the image, there is a lot of gaps. I've tried using rubber bands but ended up snapping keel parts, and having to repair them. All the bulkheads have been glued, and I am meant to glue down the deck. But I fear that won't happen until I can solve the lack of curve. Heat hasn't worked as it would have to be applied to both sides, and I have no idea what heat would do to polycrylic. 

Edited January 14, 2023 by Wookiewithacamera
Link

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 3.5 

 

After experimenting with various clamp points, rubber bands and paint sticks; I believe.. I found my issue. When mounting my F4 bulkhead I noticed it sits abit higher than the rest. At first I assumed this was natural due to the curvature requires in the deck. But this isn't the first time a slot hadn't been the right size for my keel. Usually it's too tight. The bulkhead is meant to sit at a slight slant, to make up and support the hatch structure above. This frame didn't want to sit at a slant despite how many times I adjusted before glueing and still doesn't. As the glue set, the bottom of the bulkhead straighted out, while the top held in by the deck, stayed curved. I believe this 1 or 2 mm height change is what is making my f5 bulkhead not want to line up with the deck. I soaked the deck this morning and affixed it to the framing to dry and hopefully take a bend. I noticed it had started to crack midship around the mast step, from being left unattended while drying. The edges were curving upward, as my kit parts tend to do, while the center line was dry. Thanks to the poly coat, it didn't crack all the way through, so it's minor, and I know I'll be reinforcing this area in a later step. After much thought, and a few beers, I came to a conclusion last night- If my poly coat is water-acrylic in nature, it "should" have some flexibility. So rather than puzzle at the solution, I decided to try and soak-bend the deck this morning. Even if it only takes a slight bend, that's better than the table-flatness it had prior. Once it dries, however, I'll sand down the flat sides of F4 where the deck is meant to rest, to try and get the deck closer to F5. I am very confident that this was my issue. Due to the trouble I had straightening the frames and their fragility, I am not going to try and remove and straighten F4 again. I will leave it in its current shape, and adapt around it. The other issue in the framing, I found later in the instructions.it mentions and shows slots in F5 during the cabin stage,but F5 has no additional slots. 

 

 

Edited January 15, 2023 by Wookiewithacamera
Missing detail

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 4

 

After carefully working little by little on the deck, and adjusting the height of frames; the deck has gone down. The deck is now taped off, and ready to go forward. Midship to stern keel and frames have all been glued to the deck and is curing. A little reshaping and beveling on the transom and it's been glued and clipped. It's messy, but I know it will be covered by the cap. I've removed, cleaned up, and shaped the edges of the Cockpit cabin walls and glued them down and installed the underside cabin braces. I used the punch outs from the windows to trace the shape for blacking out later. The deck of the tiller foot well? has been glued and clipped.

 

 

While this cures I'll be figuring out what colors I'll be using, as I have no stain or ink to make my own currently. I may do a pale-ish blue gray, with a white wash on the rooftops, and off white for cabin walls with a slight brown/green wash for washed up muck from marina shallows and wash up. 

 

She's starting to look like a ship and this pleases me. 

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log  5

 

After a lot of sanding and filling gaps, I've started the paint.The base colors for cabin and cargo hold has gone down, and glue has been applied. 2 coats of an off white, and 4 coats of medium blue. Later I will apply some white washes and green washes on top to bring down the brightness. I want this to look very well used. Well worked on, rather than newly pressure washed. 

 

Dry fitting

 

 

[Wookiewithacamera]

I noticed the instructions have me install seat supports in the area with the tiller, whatever it's called. But there is no step to install seats. Did pre-helm era schooners not have seats? Why install seats supports? 

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 6

 

Once the cabins have dried over night I moved on to finish the structural foundation. I glued the keel strips down, they were certainly finicky. Once they were trimmed up and glued down the chines strips and trimmed these at the transom. Later I realized I missed a crucial step. The instructions don't mention this, but the image vaguely hints at a gap between false keel/stem area and the chines. I cut the tips of the chines loose once more and trimmed them back further, to allow room later to bevel the keel strips into the 1/32" at the stem to accept the stem piece. 

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 7

 

 The first time I checked my fairing, there didn't appear to be any adjustments needed. Using a thin 3/16" x 1"  x 10"  strip of excess cut off, I glanced down the frames and didn't " see" any hills or valleys.  Concerned that I may have overlooked something, I checked again, despite my telling myself to have confidence. This time I put the side plank on and checked for light leak gaps. I found a few 1mm or 2mm gaps, mostly at the deck side of the frames. There were none at the chines. A few passes with file and it was gone. Pleased with it, I soaked my planks for about 2 minutes or less. I clamped these down with a handful of new long nose reversed clothes pins.

 

 

I see now why long nose clamps are so widely used. They seem perfect for fitting over planking to clamp to the chines. But I am loving the lighter pressure of the clothes pins over my overly strong metal clips. Every time I use them they leave indentation, or cracks. A few of them have already broken through the rubber caps they came with. Seeing as they were free, I'm not surprised. So far I have thoroughly enjoyed this model, I've only had 1 or 2 issues, but they were easily solved in the moment. I am finding that previous knowledge and experience has sharpened my problem solving with wood- and what to avoid. Its gratifying to see this schooner unfold. Unlike my unpleasant first experience with the Dory.

I almost feel like revisiting the Dory, but as a sailing dory, and maybe from a different company.

Ive found the instructions to be far better with Midwest Products co, it's a shame they've ceased manufacturing kits. However the schooner is significantly easier. The Dory had fragile frames.

[Wookiewithacamera]

I noticed on everyone else Sharpie, the bow area is much thicker than mine. I read and reread my manual, and it says sand the keel, keel strips, chines at the bow to 1/32. So I "charred" the keel edge with pencil lead to help me keep it center to the deck, and the measure. I set my calipers to 1/32 and locked them. After sanding and measuring multiple times, I got the bow of the keel, deck to almost 1/32, maybe 2/32, as the caliper doesn't slide onto the bow but only the very tip. It is very thin, and after placing the first side plank, I had issues with the deck bow not being thin enough. When I faired, I didn't include the deck. Even more sanding will be required on the deck moving forward if I want the side plank to be flush at the bow. I know it will be covered up by the stem in the next step, and appearance won't be a concern. But I thought I would mention this odd inconsistency. I also see others adding bench's, when the manual says nothing about them. I'm currently working on flushing the bow and the side plank, before I move on to the second plank. As I don't have a good way of clamping bows with deformity, like my dory, which became a canoe by the end of planking. I have been unable to find pins thin enough for this small scale ship, and it's thin beveled planks and bulkheads. I see a lot of pinning of planks on larger kits, as they have beefier bulkheads and frames. At 1/16, it has been an exercise in futility. Rubber bands will not hold the bow without rolling off. I will continue to think on this, as I don't want to ruin this kit too. I already regret not staining the deck before varnishing, as I was worried about fumes of stains. I bought a few cheap dollar store stains yesterday and tested them on scrap basswood, and was happy with the finish. I also tested the deck punch outs, to see what happens if I stain on top of varnish, this was not a very pleasing outcome. However I was down for the day with a migraine aftering staining a small part. I will not be staining again until I can afford a P100 respirator. Having already painted the cabins, I am concerned with the hatch slides that slipped my mind. As mentioned in others builds there was a mention about the gapping around the cabins as other kits go deeper into the hull with the walls. I also don't like this, so I am going to try and add a little coaming like Hopefuls build. Does coaming only apply to deck edges, or can it also be at roof edges like a crown molding? 

[VTHokiEE]

1 hour ago, Wookiewithacamera said:

Rubber bands will not hold the bow without rolling off

I’m trying to recall how I clamped these parts and frequently it’s a combination of things. I may have also simply held them together for a while until the glue set - turn on the TV/Radio/etc and relax for a while. I may have used a wedge made out of wood to get everything to sit correctly. Creative clamping is definitely something to take your time on and consider.

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 8  

Creative Clamping. Is certainly the theme of today's adventure. 

 

After hours of fighting with this step, I managed to rig up a system that is fragile but works. I cut the shape, roughly, of the bow out of scrap paint stir stick. Using this and large rubber bands, and half of a clothes pin wedged in for additional pressure and distribution of pressure, it holds. I would imagine this would have been much easier with a couple of fine point 0.5mm pins pushed in here. Both sides planks have been trimmed to profile, and sanded down to a 220 grit, including the sides of the hull. After looking at both @VTHokiEE and @hopeful builds, I've opted to add a small strip of plank behind the... Skeg? The bottom planks are not right. Had they made it oversize from top to bottom, you could have cut a deeper slot, front and back, to accommodate the keel. With our this extra material in the bottoms, building up behind the keel seems to be the only path. I am eager to finish the bottoms, and start working on details and rigging. 

[VTHokiEE]

Coming along nicely! I wish I had done a better planking pattern (and used a thinner pencil) on mine. Your deck looks great.

[Wookiewithacamera]

1 hour ago, VTHokiEE said:

Coming along nicely! I wish I had done a better planking pattern (and used a thinner pencil) on mine. Your deck looks great.

I used a . 5mm mechanical pencil, and a dulled xacto to score/scribe grooves. Then I used mixwax polycrylic varnish to seal in the graphite. I wish I would have been able to darken my deck, I was hoping my top coat would darken it even 1 shade. 

[VTHokiEE]

I’m not certain if it’s helpful but I picked up the following from Syren Ship Model company to enhance my sharpie:

 

0.012” Tan rigging line (qty. 2)

0.008” dark drown rigging line (qty. 1)

3/16” single sheave blocks (qty. 1)

4mm deadeyes (qty. 1)

5mm cleats (qty. 1) 

 

Looking at the finished model I should have gone larger on the dead eyes and a touch smaller on the blocks (IMO).

 

 

Edited January 25, 2023 by VTHokiEE

[Wookiewithacamera]

1 hour ago, VTHokiEE said:

0.012” Tan rigging line (qty. 2)

0.008” dark drown rigging line (qty. 1)

3/16” single sheave blocks (qty. 1)

4mm deadeyes (qty. 1)

5mm cleats (qty. 1) 

 

Looking at the finished model I should have gone larger on the dead eyes and a touch smaller on the blocks (IMO).

The cleats for sure. I refuse to use the plastic ones. I have a plan to also pick up some beads if I can, for my parrels. If not I'll pick up a dowel and make my own. I was unsure if I should replace the blocks or just sand them down. As I read only, most kits provide too large of blocks. I'd also like to grab some brass sheets for the metal bits. 

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 9

I Finished the planks over the weekend and had some minor gap issues. After much searching I was only able to find 3 in 1 color mixable wood filler. Paintable, stainable, pigment mixable, and water based. I have never used a wood filler before, so it was certainly an experience. Online I've seen people use it with just their fingers. But the container urges to avoid skin contact. Just to be safe I used toothpicks and scratch wood. 

 

After sanding and touch ups, she's ready for paint. I made seats, and painted and weathered them. Shortly after, I found the included seats that were "missing". As with @VTHokiEE my Companionway door was incorrect, and scratch made one. Then painted it to look like the original Mahongany. 

 

Hatch slides have been made and installed. A blackish brown wash was applied to the deck, Companionway floor, and all white sections to imply use. A white wash was applied to the hatch and slides to lighten the blue from prolonged sea water exposure. 

 

Today I started tapering masts. I made the main boom, and started on the jib boom. All holes have been drilled at .512mm as it was the smallest drill bit I have in my hand drill. Apparently I have 4 of each size, in 3 sizes. Not a full set as I thought. The instructions called for .40mm. After I finish the booms, gaffs and bowsprit I'll have to put the model aside until I can get the proper equipment for staining. Then I'll stain hull, and spars. my excitement has to increased as I get closer to rigging. So I've made a lot of progress this weekend. 

[VTHokiEE]

I think you can get some brass sheet metal from K&S online (https://ksmetals.com/collections/brass-sheet). I picked up a small thin sheet at Home Depot or Lowe’s (but I don’t know if they still sell it).

 

I tried to make my own parrels and ended up going with seed beads. I wish I had cut the arms back on my sharpie for the parrel loop so that it contained more beads. I didn’t know any better at the time though.

Edited January 25, 2023 by VTHokiEE

[VTHokiEE]

I noticed your comment about filler - I’ve used this Hobbyco Hobbylite Balsa Filler (which doesn’t seem to be available any longer on Amazon) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015H4EB8

 

I haven’t done too much with staining but it has blended in well whenever I’ve needed it as a touch up. I’ve been trying to use sawdust mixed with white glue as well but I haven’t perfected that yet.

[Wookiewithacamera]

Just now, VTHokiEE said:

Ive been trying to use sawdust mixed with white glue as well but I haven’t perfected that yet.

Depending on part stability. I'll usually glue and immediately start light sanding to add sawdust to the seam. But as all my sanding is using sticks, I'm not able to supply myself with an adequate amount to make my own filler. The gap at the transom, on the bottom planks was also far to large for that method, as well as the hollow body of the boat. I'm just glad it went as smoothly as it did. 

[Wookiewithacamera]

20 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

0.012” Tan rigging line (qty. 2)

0.008” dark drown rigging line (qty. 1)

3/16” single sheave blocks (qty. 1)

4mm deadeyes (qty. 1)

5mm cleats (qty. 1) 

If you have a a deadeye on the list, where are you located putting it?

It looked like it was all blocks and eye rings, but no deadeyes on this boat. 

20 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

 

 

[VTHokiEE]

I did a little kit bashing and used deadeyes to attach the shrouds and added a little metal work to attach the deadeyes to the hull. Not certain the accuracy but I saw the style on a different build log and liked it.

 

 

[Wookiewithacamera]

I don't have any metal to make my own add-ons. I would however like to add the bowsprit collar and fitting attachment rings to the spars. Similar to your log. 

[VTHokiEE]

Some of the metalwork can be done with black card paper as well f you’re up to experiment with other materials.

[Wookiewithacamera]

@VTHokiEEOn the syren website I don't see 3/16" blocks anywhere. When I Google them from syren I only get model shipways.