Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100

[bozzybox]

Hi Daniel

Wow! Your work sure is impressive, and I marvel at your attention to detail. I have just finished my first Ocre model, the Flying Dutchman and am now eagerly planning the arrival of my next one, you guessed it AV. BTW I was wondering what the heck this AV you were mentioning all along these posts, until the penny dropped. I am "building" out of the Western Cape in South Africa. Sadly, we don't have that many suppliers of these wonderful kits and accessories, so I have to source most from out of country.

So, I am a data guy and am trying to "catalog" the steps for the building, especially when it comes to the masts and rigging which we all know is sadly lacking from most of these kit instructions. Previously I was building AL models, and they are all the same. I am finding it a bit of a challenge "naming" all the different components found in the instructions because they are just a part number in the instructions. The AV is a bit more of a challenge because there are just so many "trinkets" on the deck and I started guessing what each one was. Luckily for your posts you name them as you are going along so I should manage. Don't know why they could not just create another "column" (remember I am a data guy) with the appropriate and correct name. For instance, I started calling the main bridge, first a deck house then a dashboard and then only saw that you called it a bridge. So, if you or anyone comes across a definitive list of each and every part of the AV, I would be eternally grateful.

But apart from that I will be following the remainder of your build closely and hopefully begin my journey in the new year. I am most probably going to follow the instructions more closely than you did, kit bashing is a bit of a challenge for my skill levels at the moment. This will be my seventh model. Started with AL - San Juan, King of the Missisippi, Red Dragon and Bounty. Then Victory from Mantua and my last one as mentioned the Flying Dutchman from Ocre. Saw the release of the new model last night, USS Missouri, but war ships are not my bag, although the size and detail on that thing was quite impressive. Over and out.

Edited October 12, 2024 by bozzybox

[DanielD]

On 10/10/2024 at 10:28 AM, bozzybox said:

Hi Daniel

Wow! 

BozzyBox, thank you for your kind words. Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you, my wife and I have been out of town. Actually, I had the opportunity to go on board the USS Constitution floating in Boston, MA USA harbor. Like you, I'm not really into war ships; however, I might have to make an exception for the USS Constitution because I have actually stood on her decks! While I was there I took a ton of pictures that may help in a future build.

 

As for my Amerigo Vespucci by OcCre, it's my third build and each new ship I feel my skill level improves and is more detailed than the last one. Funny you mentioned that I call things by their "actual" names...that made me laugh because I'm still struggling with the terminology on these old ships and probably make up more terms than use the real names of things. Additionally, some items have several names which also make it difficult for me to follow along at times. Good luck on you AV build. Be sure to create a build log so that we all can follow along!

 

Daniel

[DanielD]

Good evening mates! I have a question for all you more experienced modelers. The Amerigo Vespucci that I'm building will require some 1mm chain from the bowsprit to the bow of the ship. Several of the chains need to be black, not a big deal, I can chemically tarnish the chain from the kit and make it black with a mat clear coat sealer and done! The model will also require some WHITE 1mm chain. I've thought about painting it, but I'm not sure that will work as paint doesn't stick well to the chain. What have you all done to create small 1mm white chain?

 

Daniel

Edited November 3, 2024 by DanielD

[Mike Dowling]

I painted mine. Looks ok but could do with another coat now.

[clearway]

you could ty etching primer then a couple of thinned down coats of white enamel.

 

Keith

[DanielD]

Good morning mates, last night I finally fitted and glued in place the face of the AV, the explorer Amerigo Vespucci him self, or a reasonable facsimile. Lots of work went into widening and shaping the groove of the piece to fit my hull, but in the end a nice firm snug fit.

 

[DanielD]

Good day mates, finished the chain work on the bowsprit. A bit different than the OcCre plans, but more like the real America Vespucci. Now to study the standing rigging for the bowsprit.

 

Edited November 8, 2024 by DanielD

[DanielD]

Good afternoon mates, I’ve finally started the standing rigging…

 

[Bill97]

Daniel I just ordered the OcCre Amerigo Vespucci. Expect it to arrive soon. I will open the kit after I complete the OcCre Endeavour I am currently building. I checked the index here on MSW and discovered your build is the only OcCre!  I have read through yours and have it saved for easy reference. I really like what you did with the lighting. I would so appreciate it if you would share with me any advice you might have for me.

[DanielD]

29 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

I would so appreciate it if you would share with me any advice you might have for me.

Good afternoon mate! I have very much enjoyed my OcCre Amerigo Vespucci build. My philosophy for working on these models is to build in as much accurate detail as my skill level allows regardless how long it takes me to complete the model. I’m about two years into my AV with about a year to go.

 

The best tool I have had for my build is a virtual tour of the AV which can be found here: https://tourmake.it/amerigovespucci

 

The OcCre kit lacks a lot of details that are relatively easy to add that, in my opinion, really make the kit shine.

 

Good luck and enjoy.

Edited November 29, 2024 by DanielD

[Bill97]

Thanks Daniel. That is the same for the Endeavour. Easy to add nautical accuracy. Will check the web site. 

[DanielD]

Good evening mates. I’ve finally progressed to the shrouds and some rat line production to stave off some boredom 😂.

 

The photos don’t do it justice, but here are a couple.

 

Edited November 30, 2024 by DanielD

[DanielD]

Here are a couple more up to date shots.

 

[DanielD]

And one more with the night lights on, slowly starting to look like the Italian flag.

 

[Knocklouder]

Great work Dan. 

Bob M. 

 

[Bill97]

Beautiful Dan. I noticed the AV does not use deadeyes and at the end of the shrouds but instead those little white pieces. I see that is the same on the actual ship, not an OcCre short cut. They are interesting. 🤔.  I imagine there are a number of differences in the ship mechanisms from the 16-17 century ships I have built. 

Edited November 30, 2024 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Daniel while wait for my AV to arrive I read through your build and watch all the OcCre YouTube videos. I am curious, is the thread you are using for your stays white or is that just how it appears in the photos?  In the OcCre videos the lighter thread is their standard raw thread color. 

[DanielD]

37 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Daniel while wait for my AV to arrive I read through your build and watch all the OcCre YouTube videos. I am curious, is the thread you are using for your stays white or is that just how it appears in the photos?  In the OcCre videos the lighter thread is their standard raw thread color. 

Good morning Bill, good catch,! I’m not using the thread that came in the kit, for me it’s just well…too fuzzy and the colors that came with my kit are a dark tope and brown. If you go on the virtual tour of the AV you will notice that the lines used on the actual ship are either black or light tan. As such, I’m using pre waxed thread in black and tan, but in the photos the tan appears brighter than in real life.

[DanielD]

Bill, I also noticed that on the ships I’ve previously built, the standing rigging is dark (black or brown) while the running rigging is lighter (tan). However, many of the standing lines on the AV are light but served with black. So as I build my model, I’m using the virtual tour to, where I can, determine which color I should use and whether the line is served or not. Oh, and the OcCre kit leaves out a few important lines / details that are unique to the AV.

 

For example, the kit has a single black chain from the bowsprit to the front of the bow, but on the real ship there are two. For the running rigging, the kit uses pin rails like most ship do, but the real version the running line goes first through a sheave below the pin rail then tied off on the pin. At the base of each mast the kit ties off each line at the pin rail and either there is no extra line or you add extra line hanging off the pin like most other ships. In the case of the AV, the extra line is “stored” in a unique way and this detail is very important to the uniqueness of this special ship…so I added this feature. I realize that I can’t possibly have every line on my model match that of the real ship, there are thousands, but I will do the ones that make her unique if I can.

[Bill97]

Thanks again Daniel. I ordered the OcCre paint set for the AV. Well let me say my daughter is giving it to me for Christmas 😉.

I have an extensive set of Vallejo acrylics, both airbrush and paint brush. However I thought I would give the OcCre paints a try. Did you airbrush any of the painting or hand paint it all?  I have a thought I know is in no way accurate for the AV but I can’t help wonder how it would look. One of the reasons I like wood models is look of the wood planking on the hull. I am a woodworker and love the look of wood. I know the AV has a steel hull painted a high gloss series of green, black, and white. The AV videos show I am to coat the second planking with wood putty and then sand it down to a smooth seamless finish before undercoat and color top coat. I am curious what it would look like to painstakingly apply the second planking with no gaps or spaces. Then apply the color over the planking without using the wood filler. The ultimate look would be a glossy wood hull instead of steel. 

[DanielD]

Bill, I did a second planking and filled and sanded the entire hull. It was a lot of work to get a steel plate appearance. As you probably saw on my build log, I added rivets in a pattern across the hull to give it that steel plate vibe. 
 

Interesting thought about making her have a wood planked hull…I can’t even imagine what that would look like…good luck. Do you have a build log started yet? I want to follow along.

[Bill97]

No Daniel I don’t have it yet.  I checked FEDEX tracking this morning and it is still somewhere in Spain 😊.

I will finish my Endeavour before starting it. Still a while. Here is the link to my build if you want to take a peek. 
 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36221-endeavour-by-bill97-occre-154/

Would really like you to follow my AV build once I begin and provide advice and comment. I will be making the “upgrades” that you have shown. I also plan to light my AV but no where near the expertise you obviously have! Your lighting 

Edited December 4, 2024 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Daniel I wonder if you can help me get smart. I have tried reading and researching but my brain can figure it out. I am planning to light my AV, just not to the same incredible level you are. I looked at the lighting kit OcCre offers and have considered buying it. However I already have a good supply of everything that is in the OcCre kit except for the resistors. As you can see in the photos I have a good selection of LED color lights, numerous battery packs with switches that hold a pair of 2A batteries, and a good supply of red and black wire. Everything in the OcCre kit except resistors. I looked at on the back each LED color pack and there is information provided that is Greek to me. I assume there is a relationship between my battery power source and the info on the back of the packs. You can see in the photos I showing the back that the information changes a bit from light to light. Could you please enlighten me as to what I need to make this work. 

[Mike Dowling]

I hope no one minds me interrupting but you have everything you need except for batteries of course! As long as you don't exceed the voltage shown you won't need resistors.

[DanielD]

Bill, Mike is correct in that as long as you don’t exceed the voltage requirement for your LEDs, you have everything you need. Now comes the hard part. Each color of LED has a different max voltage, usually stated on the package. In my case, the voltages ranged from 2.3 volts to 3.2 volts and a couple in between. A single AA battery would be 1.5 volts and not enough to turn on most LEDs while two AA batteries is 3 volts and exceeds the 2.3 volt requirements of my green LEDs. While this doesn’t seem like much a difference, .7 volts will cause my green LEDs to be very bright and likely burn out much earlier than they should. Thus the desire to use resistors to protect the LEDs from over voltage. Another option, like what I used on my AV is to use an adjustable voltage regulator. I purchased a 10 pack of these from Amazon for about $12. Using this method, I can have a large input voltage, in my case a 9 volt battery. Way too much voltage for most LEDs, but the cool thing is the output of the device is adjustable. With this scenario, you can set the output voltage to exactly what you need, I.e, 2.3 volts. Also, as you add more LEDs to your build there will be a voltage drain and you can then just turn up the output on the regulator to get back to the 2.3 volts necessary for full brightness. One last advantage is, because it is adjustable, you can to some extent control the brightness of the LEDs. Hope this helps.

Edited December 4, 2024 by DanielD

[Bill97]

Thanks Mike and Daniel. Mike I don’t mind you commenting at all. So how do I know the voltage of my LED’s?  Is that the number on the back label? Like the warm white for the example reads 3.OV-3.2V and then the colors, like the red for example, reads 1.8-2.OV.  So would my 2 doubleA battery pack (3volts) exceed the voltage requirement for all of my LED’s? I think I may be still a little confused. 

Edited December 4, 2024 by Bill97

[DanielD]

44 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Thanks Mike and Daniel. Daniel I don’t mind you commenting at all. So how do I know the voltage of my LED’s?  Is that the number on the back label? Like the warm white for the example reads 3.OV-3.2V and then the colors, like the red for example, reads 1.8-2.OV.  So would my 2 doubleA battery pack (3volts) exceed the voltage requirement for all of my LED’s? I think I may be still a little confused. 

The two voltages are important. The low number is what is required to turn on the LED, a minimum voltage if you will. The larger number is the do not exceed voltage. In your case, the warm white will require 3volts (2AA batteries) to just turn on the LED. In this setting they may be a bit dim. To get a brighter warm light you would need to add more voltage, but an additional AA battery (4.5 volts) would be way too much and likely burn out the LED.

 

In the case of the red LED, 1.8 volts required to turn on but don’t exceed 2.0 volts. So a single AA battery (1.5v) not enough to turn on the red, but 2 AA batteries (3.0v) would burn them out fairly quickly. This is why we use resistors. To be fair, most LEDs have a plus/minus tolerance of around 20%, meaning you could, with a little risk, use a max voltage of 2.2v for the red LED and probably be okay.

 

Adding a resistor to each LED is not hard and safely protects the LED from over voltage and quick burnout. Resistors are very cheep, can get a 100 of them from amazon for a buck or two. Technically a different size resistor would be required for each color of LED; however, in real world practice, allowing for all the tolerances, the same small 1/4 watt resistor can be used for all the colors. When I get home I can let you know what I used and even provide an Amazon link.

[Bill97]

Thanks Daniel. That is what I am exactly hoping for. I don’t mind purchasing different resistors and soldering them into the circuit. I would not expect I would use more than a couple different colors other than the white. Maybe the red or green on deck as you did. So if you would not mind to just tell me get this resistor for this color light I have and this resistor for that color light I will forever be in your debt!  This will certainly save me on purchasing the OcCre light kit. 
As you saw I have a number of 2Double A battery packs with a built in switch. I guess it might require a different resistor, I honestly don’t know, but I would I have longer life with a 9volt battery packs?  I doubt I turn on the lights for extended periods. Would be great if there was an AC adapter I could just plug in and use a remote. That might be wishful thinking. 

[DanielD]

Bill, more information for your overload 😊. If you choose to use more than one color, warm white and red for example, it would be best to wire two circuits. What I mean by this is don’t mix the white and red LEDs on the same red wire. The black wire can be share among all the LEDs. If you look at a new LED, you will notice that one lead (wire) will be longer than the other. The long wire is positive and should be connected to the red wires while the short lead connects to the black wire (this is important as the LED won’t work if this is backwards). If you add a resistor to each LED, you can technically add to either the long (red side) or short (black side) of the LED; however, for troubleshooting, always be consistent. I add my resistors always to the long (red) side of the LED. The reason for this is that as you install your LEDs you will likely need to trim the leads to fit and it can be very easy to lose track of what side the black wire should be attached to. You can also look at the LEF case, you will notice that there is a flat portion of the plastic…this is the side that the black wire should attach to.

 

Hope this helps. Ask your questions. While this initially seems hard, once you have it figured out for one light you can easily replicate for 100s making a stunning display.

[Bill97]

Great Daniel. Hope my continued questions are not interrupting your busy day. I so appreciate your help and am excited to get started. This is beginning to make sense. If I decide to use more than one color I will set up a separate circuit using a separate battery pack with for each circuit. Got that part. 👍

I was curious about the long and short LED bulb wires and you answered that before I asked. 👍  So for simplicity, and appearance, it would be best on one circuit just to have one color white light, not white and warm white? Or does that not matter since their specifications are the same?  So, to make a long story short and me stop asking you so many dumb questions, if I use the white and warm white LED’s I have and the double A battery packs I have, what resistors do I need to solder on to each bulb?

 

Once I get that down pat I will attack the possible circuit for any color light I may decide to set up.