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Posted

Hey all.

 

I'm looking for a good, cheap pin pusher for the purpose of using pins for holding planks and bulkheads in place while gluing.

 

The pins I am using are 14mm long, .5mm diameter, and the head is 1.2 mm wide.

 

Thanks for any suggestions!

First build: US Ranger - Corel

 

Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre

Posted

For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.

 

Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:

 

1610765425_pininsertionplier.jpg.8efaa00010436092ceed468dc1439612.jpg

At Micro Mark  the name is  Pin insertion plier

 

In general  it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank.  In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding.  For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway.  A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model.  The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

I personally Don't like pin pushers. I have used them before and ended up with to many split planks and bent pins.

Its a bit long winded, and adds a bit of time to the job. But I use a drill slightly smaller than the pin and then use a toffee hammer to insert the pin. Makes for a much neater job than pushing pins in.

Paul

In work: -queen-mary-2

Finished: rms-titanic-1912

Finished: king-of-the-Mississippi

Finished: Sanson

Posted
43 minutes ago, Paul Jarman said:

I personally Don't like pin pushers. I have used them before and ended up with to many split planks and bent pins.

Its a bit long winded, and adds a bit of time to the job. But I use a drill slightly smaller than the pin and then use a toffee hammer to insert the pin. Makes for a much neater job than pushing pins in.

Paul

A good idea Paul!  I'm going to use your method on my next build.  I used a pin pusher on Sphinx and too many pins bent and marked the surface of the planks.  I also disliked the amount of force needed - can't be good for the shape of the frames.

 

Nipper

Current build:  HMS Sphinx 1775 - 1/64 - Vanguard Models

Completed build:  HM Cutter Alert 1777 - 1/64 - Vanguard Models

Posted
2 hours ago, Paul Jarman said:

I personally Don't like pin pushers. I have used them before and ended up with to many split planks and bent pins.

If you are talking about pinning planking, it is really unnecessary if the planks are properly tapered and pre-shaped by spiling or using the heated edge bend method shown in the four part Chuck Passaro YouTube videos.  Consider studying the videos and the planking tutorial in the Articles database here at MSW by David Antscherl.  The results from both methods are of the highest order in terms of quality and realism.   

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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