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Posted (edited)

This Bluejacket Grand Banks Dory is my introduction to building wooden ship models. I spent a nice weekend building the sub assemblies. The most difficult task was finding a perfectly flat building board and organizing a shop area. I am using strictly Titebond 2 but have some Zap thin and slow Zap if needed. I'm taking my time, studying the plans and enjoying this project tremendously. I bought a Panavise for this project and it has proven to be invaluable. Today I will spent some time prepping the parts further for installation in the jig. I'm going to try a pizza cutter to lightly score some board lines on the bottom, even though they will never be noticed. I did find that the mast step provided in the laser cut parts was larger than what is shown on the print with a slightly different 1/8 hole location. The photo shows the laser cut part. Also notice is indicates K2 on the drawing and H5 on the part slab. So I made another from from scrap basswood to exactly match the print and glued it to the bottom. I hope that was not a mistake on my part . I always believed blueprints  rule unless a part change has be noted on the print. Cheers, Tim

Mast Step.jpg

Grand Banks Dory 1.jpeg

Edited by East Ender
added content/spelling

Tim Lent

Posted

:sign:

This is the place to Be!!!  Nice start. 

Start so you can Finish !!

Finished:         The Sea of Galilee Boat-Scott Miller-1:20 ,   Amati } Hannah Ship in a Bottle:Santa Maria : LA  Pinta : La Nana : The Mayflower : Viking Ship Drakkar  The King Of the Mississippi  Artesania Latina  1:80 

 

 Current Build: Royal Yacht, Duchess of Kingston-Vanguard Models :)

Posted

Looks good.  Getting my cuppa and a comfortable seat.  Looking forward to the build.  The pizza cutter is an interesting concept.  

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Robert Chenoweth

 

Current Build: Maine Peapod; Midwest Models; 1/14 scale.

 

In the research department:

Nothing at this time.

 

Completed models (Links to galleries): 

Monitor and Merrimack; Metal Earth; 1:370 and 1:390 respectively.  (Link to Build Log.)

Shrimp Boat; Lindbergh; 1/60 scale (as commission for my brother - a tribute to a friend of his)

North Carolina Shad Boat; half hull lift; scratch built.  Scale: (I forgot).  Done at a class at the NC Maritime Museum.

Dinghy; Midwest Models; 1/12 scale

(Does LEGO Ship in a Bottle count?)

 

Posted

Yes, the pizza cutter concept worked nicely. Position and clamp down your straightedge and be sure to use steady but light pressure with a slight angle towards your straightedge. Nobody will ever see this on the completed model, it's just the satisfaction of knowing it's been done.

Pizza Cutter.jpg

Tim Lent

Posted (edited)

I figured it's time to stop and let the glue cure for a day or two before proceeding with the next steps . Perhaps some work on the oars or sail over the next few days. It's time to learn how to sew. Looking at the photo, it liked like frame F5 was off, so I ran back out there and checked and thankfully it's just a camera anomaly, All legs, stem and transom line up on the assembly plan jig.

Frame.jpg

Edited by East Ender

Tim Lent

Posted (edited)

Today after all the chamfering of the stem, transom, matching the angle of the the frames along the bottom for a nice clean angle and flat surface for the side strakes, I flipped my building board over and transferred all of the important jig points off the print by way of pinpoint and then starting with the stem and working back  one frame at at a time, glued the assembly to the board. Much more robust than pinning and no worries of movement. (Bluejackets video of the Dory also has the frames glued to the work surface). Tomorrow will fit the gunwale strips after soaking in water and ammonia. not sure how long to soak them. Then will trim and clamp them in place until dry before gluing.

Plan.jpeg

Glued Frame.jpeg

Edited by East Ender
added content/spelling

Tim Lent

Posted

Not much today.  I sanded the frame and installed the first two garboard planks, and sanded again. Soaked the gripe in ammonia and water and formed it with the heavy shaft of my soldering iron.  Will let this dry overnight. I may install one more plank before removing it from the build board. Tim

1st Plank.jpeg

Gripe.jpeg

Transom.jpeg

Tim Lent

Posted (edited)

Yesterday I sealed the boat with a 50/50 mix of Zinnser clear Shellac and Denatured alcohol. I may use a 400 or 600 paper to sand smooth, perhaps even fine scotchbrite. Also worked on this gunwale strip/cap detail. I did  notice some Dory's through photographic evidence have more of an angle, slanted at almost the angle of the gunwale. Without this little detail in the instructions I may have followed that angle. The one photo shows the starboard side trimmed and the port side still raw from snipping away the build frame.You can see the extreme angle there would be if you followed the angle of the gunwale strip and ignored the detail.  I found a wonderful color video on YouTube called Grandbanks Doreymen of the Newfoundland South Coast and Gloucester that supports that detail and colors used during that time period. My preference would be to leave the interior natural, using a thinned spar varnish and the outside the Depot Buff as is called out in the available paint kit. The gunwale would be deep green. I would like it to be as historically accurate as possible. Any suggestions?  Cheers.

Angle.jpeg

Detail E.jpeg

Trim.jpg

Edited by East Ender
spelling

Tim Lent

Posted (edited)

Yesterday and today I worked on the seat rails and seats. Being brand new to the hobby and this being my first build  I struggled with the laser cut seats as they sat too high, were too wide to sit correctly at the height seat rail called out on the print. Why don't they fit? Then, the light bulb went on. This is a wood model! Everything needs cutting, trimming, fitting and double checking against the print and double checked again. All parts are oversize on purpose to correct for variations and build "creep". So now , obviously those hard mahogany parts need trimming. What to do. I do not want to ruin them. So thinking about it, I grabbed a file folder to use as template as the material is quite stiff. I laid each seat over the file folder and carefully outlined and cut out each seat. I then numbered each seat template as on the plan and added an arrow forward for proper direction. This is good for several reasons. First, I'm not experimenting with cuts on the actual wood seats and I can cut each template accurately and if I mess up, just make another, not big deal and no ruined part. On this kit getting two of the seats mixed up is easy, so number them. I fit one side of each seat first, then use my dividers to measure the distance across and mark the width between notches and the outside planked side on the template. Once I get a nice fit with the template, I use the template to transfer over to each wood seat to make my cuts. Again starting with on side and slowly trimming the other side until  the seat sits nicely on the rails between the frames. Take your time. A small square jewelers file for the notches and a sanding block fro the outside edges. Note: The little notches play a huge part in allowing the seat to sit down nicely on the rails, so cut and chamfer ( angle of frame) carefully using the template as a guide. Fit and final sand the outside edges of the seat which also have a slight chamfer. I then coated each seat with a very thin coat of McCluskey Spar Varnish, and after waiting for about an hour lightly wiped each seat with a damp rag with mineral spirits to dry overnight. I hope this helps all the newbies out there, as I'm one myself ! Cheers, Tim 

Seat 2.jpeg

Seat 1.jpeg

Seat 3.jpeg

Seat 4.jpeg

 

Seat 7.jpeg

Seat 6.jpeg

Seat 5.jpeg

Edited by East Ender
Added photos/spelling

Tim Lent

Posted

Pulling up a chair and following your build log.

In the Shipyard: 18th Century Longboat - Model Shipways

                              Swift 1805 - AL

 

On the Drawing Board: La Recouvrance - Soclaine

 

Former USN MM1/SS

Posted

Nice clean work.  Good tip on the spar varnish.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

Posted (edited)

Thank you Ryland and Nic for the kind comments.  Today I worked on some of the details, the mast, cleat, snotter cleat and started the oars. With regard to the oars, I started with the dowels provided in the kit but I'm thinking I'm doing to go for the more realistic looking oar(s) as suggested in the Bluejacket instruction book. I had a piece of Acadia wood that I'm going to try but I think the grain may be out of scale. (see photo) I do have a small log pile outside loads with Holly that grows in the woods on my property that has aged a year or so and I may mill a piece or two since it's a tighter grain. I'll carve out an oar and see how it looks after staining it oak, which is what I believe they we historical made of. Correct me if I'm wrong. 

Oar 1.jpeg

Cleat.peg.jpeg

Snotter.jpeg

Edited by East Ender
added content

Tim Lent

Posted (edited)

Worked on the sail and gave the boat its first coat of paint with True North Depot Buff on the hull. I have not used enamels in quite awhile and ran into trouble with even coverage. Perhaps the paint thinner I used, Testors for enamels was not appropriate for True North so rather than end up with a real mess in trying a second coat and fretting all night, I removed it with mineral spirits first this morning while it was still somewhat soft. After a nice cleaning with denatured alcohol followed by a gentle sanding and drying, I applied two coats of Model Expo Hull Yellow Ochre which layed down fantastic with a one inch artist brush I use for my artwork. For the interior and I used Model Master Dark Ghost Gray and for the gunnel, Tamyia Dark Green. Tomorrow will be final paint/touch up, make the barrel and dye the rigging with RIT tan dye, (like I did with line around the the sail). The some light weathering here and there , cut some thin leather for the oars and thole pin installion and other details. I'm thinking the mahogany band under the gunnel should also be green, not quite sure, I think it usually is.

Cheers, Tim

Sail 2.jpeg

Sail.jpeg

Edited by East Ender
added content

Tim Lent

Posted (edited)

Took a break from the dory to let paint dry and stay out of trouble so I  made the small barrel that the kit has you build. I also planked the inside and added some weathering to make it look old and beat up. Not sure if I'll weather the dory yet, I don't have the guts....or experience to take the chance. So the fisherman will be taking out a fresh built dory with an old bucket. I'd like to build some tools dorymen used to carry. I know a bailer is one, and a gaff is another. Any other suggestions would be appreciated!

 

Cheers, Tim

 

 

Barrel 3.jpeg

Edited by East Ender
enlarged photo

Tim Lent

Posted

Well I made an attempt at weathering the model today by eliminating any gloss as much as possible with 600 paper, roughened some edges  and dry brushed some Windsor Newton Galeria Burnt Umber Acrylic water based oil, with Windsor Newton Fast Dry medium to "dirty" her up a bit. Some final touches over the next day or so then thinking about building that Wye River model Bugeye or maybe order something different from Bluejacket with a bit more rigging to test these old fingers.

Dory 2.jpg

Dory 3.jpg

Tim Lent

Posted

Calling this Bluejacket Grand Banks Dory complete with the exception of the stand. I'm sure something will need adjusting. Are models ever really complete or do you know when it's time just to walk away?  This was a fun build, the kit went together beautifully. The rocks in the one photo are from the beach of my former home on the North Shore of Long Island, out near the east end. Fitting for an east coast boat. Hats off to Bluejacket for providing a great kit. Tim

Complete 1.jpeg

Complete 6.jpeg

Complete5.jpeg

complete4.jpeg

Complete3.jpeg

Complete2.jpeg

Tim Lent

Posted

Congratulations Tim on finishing your Dory.  The weathering effects are superb and make this model come to life.  I hope to see you build one of the Wye River models as your next project.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

Posted

Nice job!  Rigging looks great.  As commented, great job at weathering. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Robert Chenoweth

 

Current Build: Maine Peapod; Midwest Models; 1/14 scale.

 

In the research department:

Nothing at this time.

 

Completed models (Links to galleries): 

Monitor and Merrimack; Metal Earth; 1:370 and 1:390 respectively.  (Link to Build Log.)

Shrimp Boat; Lindbergh; 1/60 scale (as commission for my brother - a tribute to a friend of his)

North Carolina Shad Boat; half hull lift; scratch built.  Scale: (I forgot).  Done at a class at the NC Maritime Museum.

Dinghy; Midwest Models; 1/12 scale

(Does LEGO Ship in a Bottle count?)

 

Posted
15 hours ago, Ryland Craze said:

Congratulations Tim on finishing your Dory.  The weathering effects are superb and make this model come to life.  I hope to see you build one of the Wye River models as your next project.

Thank you Ryland, that means a lot to me. I can tell you this forum and the folks here gave me the inspiration to complete the model. I Looked at the Bugeye kit yesterday have to the print on the bench. I may order something else first to get more experience, especially with metal fittings, rigging and such. This kit was an excellent beginner kit and revealed the need for a replacement of some small tools, especially a pair of sharp, precision scissors and tools for rigging. Tim

Tim Lent

Posted
11 hours ago, robert952 said:

Nice job!  Rigging looks great.  As commented, great job at weathering. 

Thank you Robert. The simple rigging was a challenge as a first time kit, but I gained lots of knowledge, especially what not to do, like getting CA on a finger, causing a messy tangling up of all the lines which then called for a re-do of all the rigging.

Tim Lent

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