CUTTY SARK by Reub - Artesania Latina - 1:84

[Reub]

Hi all.  This will be my first build log and will be of my 3rd model ship kit. I started this build back about a month ago and have only now thought to do a log. Not many photos have been taken up until this point. I will post the photos that I have up until today. I will then update you all as I go on to another step. 

[Reub]

Feel free to ask any questions relating to this build or modeling related topics.

Regards

[VitusBering]

Following with interest. Beautiful work so far.

[Reub]

Thank you very much Sir.

[ccoyle]

Handsomely done so far!

[Reub]

Thank you Sir.

[hof00]

Very nice!!

Although I have made the Mantua version, I have this kit in storage for "Someday. 🙂"

 

How did you get on with the single POB? (The material is quite "Hefty" in thickness.

Are you planning Sails or "Bare Bones?"

 

Cheers.....HOF.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

You chose a great scale for the CS ... not as "small" as in 1:96 (but even so the 1:96 is a decent size for a ship model of CS - what, something like 34" stem to stern?), but not as large as  1:70 or 1:75 kit ( about 46"?).  1:84 should be 'in between' at about 40", and a little easier to deal with some of the small details.  Using blocks and such slightly larger than 'strict' scale will still look OK.

[LeoM]

Great! Another member of the Cutty Sark club. I will follow with great interest.

Keep up the nice work

[Reub]

Hi hof00,

I didn’t have too many problems with the planking because the curvature of the hull is not too bad except at the stern. At the stern the wood twists quite a bit so to counter that I left the planks long becuase the are easy to twist like that and nailed them to the filling pieces with some wood glue. When the glue had dried, i cut the planks to length, mind you alot of wood filler was used as well. One thing i did have problems with was the bulwarks. As you have probably seen, the wood is very thin above each of the gunports/holes. They were very prone to snapping at those points and that is exactly what happened. I ended up scrapping the plywood ones provided and traced them onto a sheets of 2 mm mdf and sanded them down to 1.5 mm. This is the reason why there are no gunports on my model. I do definitely plan to add sails. I believe it adds a certain “grace” to the model. Getting back to the single planking, artesania provides abit more than double the required planks so is if you mess some of them up, it will not be a problem. 
kind regards. 

[Reub]

9 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

You chose a great scale for the CS ... not as "small" as in 1:96 (but even so the 1:96 is a decent size for a ship model of CS - what, something like 34" stem to stern?), but not as large as  1:70 or 1:75 kit ( about 46"?).  1:84 should be 'in between' at about 40", and a little easier to deal with some of the small details.  Using blocks and such slightly larger than 'strict' scale will still look OK.

Yes. The scale is quite nice to work with. But it is the latgest model i have ever made so thus quite new to me. But i have found it easy to work on so far. I feel her size is a great display size. 
Regards

[Reub]

6 minutes ago, LeoM said:

Great! Another member of the Cutty Sark club. I will follow with great interest.

Keep up the nice work

Thank you LeoM. So far she has been a pleasure to build. 
Regards. 

[hof00]

Forgot to mention,

I'll follow along with interest!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  What look like 'gun ports' on clipper ships function as 'water doors'.  Clippers navigating rough seas (like around the Horn) had big waves crash over the gunwale and onto the desk.  Scuppers alone would not drain such huge quantities fast enough, but the weight of the water would push open the water doors and drain out.  The weight of the doors (after drainage) would shut them again, and any wave hitting the side of the ship would only push the door against it's recess - thus keeping water out ... it was a 'one-way' system.

 

  This is a detail that can either be left out, or perhaps simulated by gluing thin veneer squares at the places where the doors were, then painting over black.

[VitusBering]

Aye. Here's an example from the full scale ship.

 

And clippers, with their built-for-speed hull geometry, were known for being some of the "wettest" ships on the sea. Dangerous, too, in rough seas.

It sure makes for a handsome vessel though, in my opinion.

 

[Jim Lad]

For example, 'Parma' in 1932. One of Alan Villiers amazing images of life on the last of the commercial sailing ships.

 

John

 

[Reub]

Good day all.

while waiting for the final coat of varnish to dry, i went looked ahead in the instructions. by the looks of it, the deadeye chainplates are connected to the bulwarks by only glue. This troubles me somewhat because will the glue alone be able to support the tension of the shrouds? any ideas how to improve the structural integrity of the the deadeyes chainplates. further more, the mizzen mast deadeyes seem to be inserted into the deck and also relies on glue alone to keep it secure. Thoughts?

Regards

[hof00]

1 hour ago, Reub said:

Good day all.

while waiting for the final coat of varnish to dry, i went looked ahead in the instructions. by the looks of it, the deadeye chainplates are connected to the bulwarks by only glue. This troubles me somewhat because will the glue alone be able to support the tension of the shrouds? any ideas how to improve the structural integrity of the the deadeyes chainplates. further more, the mizzen mast deadeyes seem to be inserted into the deck and also relies on glue alone to keep it secure. Thoughts?

Regards

Yup,

You could insert Brass Pins in a few locations along the length of the wooden Chainplates and pin to the Bulwarks using CA.

I am also assuming that the Deadeye Strops are wire? Dill holes in the Waterways to accept the Strop ends and CA.

 

Do a "Mock-Up" with scrap "Off-Ship" and see how it goes first.

 

Cheers....HOF.

[Reub]

6 minutes ago, hof00 said:

Yup,

You could insert Brass Pins in a few locations along the length of the wooden Chainplates and pin to the Bulwarks using CA.

I am also assuming that the Deadeye Strops are wire? Dill holes in the Waterways to accept the Strop ends and CA.

 

Do a "Mock-Up" with scrap "Off-Ship" and see how it goes first.

 

Cheers....HOF.

Thanks for the advice hoff00. 

[hof00]

Sorry, maybe to clarify, 

The Wood part, Channel, can also be used to secure the Deadeye Strop with a drop of CA.

This should be ample to take the Shroud tension with the Strop also fixed into the Waterway.

 

(Pins for securing the Channel can be made from Planking Pins, Drill a small hole on the Bulwark side of the Channel but not completely through. Keep the Pointy end of the Pin to mark the location on the Bulwark, remove the Channel, drill holes for the Pins, test fit and when happy, CA of wood glue or both.)

 

Anyway, you are probably well aware of "Pinning" stuff.

 

When I built my Mantua version the Mizzen Deadeye Strops were wound together immediately below the Deadeye and CA'd.

The twisted Strop provided more contact area for the CA through the Deck.

 

Inboard Deadeyes/Chainplates and Channels were something unique to me at the time. 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Edited April 22, 2023 by hof00

[Reub]

5 minutes ago, hof00 said:

Sorry, maybe to clarify, 

The Wood part, Channel, can also be used to secure the Deadeye Strop with a drop of CA.

This should be ample to take the Shroud tension with the Strop also fixed into the Waterway.

 

(Pins for securing the Channel can be made from Planking Pins, Drill a small hole on the Bulwark side of the Channel but not completely through. Keep the Pointy end of the Pin to mark the location on the Bulwark, remove the Channel, drill holes for the Pins, test fit and when happy, CA of wood glue or both.)

 

Anyway, you are probably well aware of "Pinning" stuff.

 

When I built my Mantua version the Mizzen Deadeye Strops were wound together immediately below the Deadeye and CA'd.

The twisted Strop provided more contact area for the CA through the Deck.

 

Inboard Deadeyes/Chainplates and Channels were something unique to me at the time. 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Okay cool. I do have some experience in pinning, glue alone feels too flimsy. this is also my first model with inboard channels and chainplates.

Next step is to insert the stanchions.

regards.

[hof00]

One other thing that comes to mind,

When you get around to making the Channels, I found the best way for myself to get a consistent hole spacing for Deadeye Strops was to "Template" these things.

 

If you want to have a look, my CS is on this site under HOF00.

 

Anyway, I think I have rambled on enough for one day.... 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

[Reub]

12 minutes ago, hof00 said:

One other thing that comes to mind,

When you get around to making the Channels, I found the best way for myself to get a consistent hole spacing for Deadeye Strops was to "Template" these things.

 

If you want to have a look, my CS is on this site under HOF00.

 

Anyway, I think I have rambled on enough for one day.... 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

Ill definitely go take a look🙂.

kind regards

[VitusBering]

Definitely check out Hof00's build log, he's a master. Also have a look at Bruma's CS build log - he reinforced the pin rails with bracing against the main rail.

In my build, I may do the same, but I did find that glue along the length of the pin rail was quite strong. I did however, and will do again, replace the plastic belaying pins with blackened brass. Just out of curiosity, what are yours made from (I'm not familiar with that kit)?

[gak1965]

It certainly won’t hurt to put in some pins (although it seems like you would have to sink them into relatively thin  bulwarks). As is, though, you would have two glue joints per deadeye (one in the channel and one at the base (bulwark or waterway). CA there should do the job fine. The shrouds shouldn’t have that much tension on them; you want them tight enough to not distort too badly when you tie the ratlines and any blocks, but not so much that they put the masts and tops under undue stress. I have anchored forestays into eyebolt held in place with just a bit of CA and it worked great.

 

looking great so far!

George K

[Reub]

6 hours ago, VitusBering said:

Definitely check out Hof00's build log, he's a master. Also have a look at Bruma's CS build log - he reinforced the pin rails with bracing against the main rail.

In my build, I may do the same, but I did find that glue along the length of the pin rail was quite strong. I did however, and will do again, replace the plastic belaying pins with blackened brass. Just out of curiosity, what are yours made from (I'm not familiar with that kit)?

Hi VitrusBering. The belaying pins are made from cast metal. 
kind regards. 

[Reub]

5 hours ago, gak1965 said:

It certainly won’t hurt to put in some pins (although it seems like you would have to sink them into relatively thin  bulwarks). As is, though, you would have two glue joints per deadeye (one in the channel and one at the base (bulwark or waterway). CA there should do the job fine. The shrouds shouldn’t have that much tension on them; you want them tight enough to not distort too badly when you tie the ratlines and any blocks, but not so much that they put the masts and tops under undue stress. I have anchored forestays into eyebolt held in place with just a bit of CA and it worked great.

 

looking great so far!

George K

Thank you very much. 
yes. I think i will sink them into the waterways as not to accidentally drill through the thin bulwarks as they have already been varnished and would be a pain to fix up. 
kind regards

[hof00]

6 hours ago, Reub said:

Thank you very much. 
yes. I think i will sink them into the waterways as not to accidentally drill through the thin bulwarks as they have already been varnished and would be a pain to fix up. 
kind regards

Hi there,

The Channels attach on the 1st Rail (Monkey Rail?) above the Deck so, if pinning, they will not be pinned directly to the Bulwarks. The top of the Rail and top of the Channels are flush.

(My experience anyway.... 🙂)

 

A few photos of the Mantua version under construction attached showing Channels.

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

 

Edited April 23, 2023 by hof00

[Reub]

Hi all, a quick update…

the whole model has been sprayed with a clear lacquer to protect the paint etc.. 

making and installation of the stanchions has also begun. This part is going to take long…

 

[Reub]

Installation of the stanchions is complete and work has started on the hatches…