USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76

[Der Alte Rentner]

I'm watching VERY closely.  I'm almost done with the furniture and fixtures on deck and the channels and chainplates are next on the agenda.

[mtbediz]

9 hours ago, Rick310 said:

Very nice!!

Rick

Thank you Rick.

[rturcic72]

Wow, I'm impressed with the craftsmanship...definitely first rate! And this is what separates the scratch builders from kit builders. We had to take the deadeyes and wrap wire around the deadeye and then solder that to the brass strips they placed in the kit.  This makes me wonder when someone sees the perfect scratch builder Conny versus kit builders, mostly using hand tools and imperfect, which one would appeal more to someone if they were in a museum and view both versions? I personally would lean towards the scratch build because it's still based on plans that are in scale just like kit builders. Making it as clean as yours brings in a lot of appeal.  The flip side to this I think is that there a folks out there that like the imperfect hand build because the real Conny is not symmetrically perfect and you can tell everything is still handmade on the ship to preserve its look.  I've had friends tell me how the ship looks awesome, but I always say none of it is perfect and point out the flaws in what I've done.  There are several areas I had to reconstruct or modify to make it work and make sure it looks like it's supposed to based on the plans.  I had to improvise a little recently because of the hooks and rigging for the carronades, but essentially accomplishes the task at hand.

[mtbediz]

7 hours ago, rturcic72 said:

Wow, I'm impressed with the craftsmanship...definitely first rate! And this is what separates the scratch builders from kit builders. We had to take the deadeyes and wrap wire around the deadeye and then solder that to the brass strips they placed in the kit.  This makes me wonder when someone sees the perfect scratch builder Conny versus kit builders, mostly using hand tools and imperfect, which one would appeal more to someone if they were in a museum and view both versions? I personally would lean towards the scratch build because it's still based on plans that are in scale just like kit builders. Making it as clean as yours brings in a lot of appeal.  The flip side to this I think is that there a folks out there that like the imperfect hand build because the real Conny is not symmetrically perfect and you can tell everything is still handmade on the ship to preserve its look.  I've had friends tell me how the ship looks awesome, but I always say none of it is perfect and point out the flaws in what I've done.  There are several areas I had to reconstruct or modify to make it work and make sure it looks like it's supposed to based on the plans.  I had to improvise a little recently because of the hooks and rigging for the carronades, but essentially accomplishes the task at hand.

When I first got into ship modeling, my initial two builds were kit based. To be honest, I didn’t enjoy them much, and at one point, I even considered giving up the hobby altogether. But while browsing through the build logs on this forum, I stumbled upon some incredible scratch built models. That discovery changed everything for me.
Inspired, I decided to try my hand at a relatively simple scratch build. I started by gathering the basic tools needed for scratch building and set out to see what I could create. To my surprise, I thoroughly enjoyed the process. Working from scratch gave me a sense of freedom I hadn’t felt with kits I wasn’t confined by pre made parts or instructions.
As time went on, I gradually expanded my toolkit and began tackling more detailed projects. Of course, scratch building demands both time and patience, and having a dedicated workshop space is essential. But for me, the creative freedom and satisfaction it brings make it all worthwhile.

[rturcic72]

Literally amazing and impressive!

[mtbediz]

I gave up on making the chain plates from brass wire because I'm not very good at hammering 1mm thick brass wire into flat strips. The strips don't come out very smooth. Instead, I cut 1.5mm-wide strips from 0.4mm thick brass sheeting I had on hand. After cutting the strips and drilling the bolt holes, I chemically blackened them. I haven't decided yet whether to settle for blackening or paint them black as well. I mounted a deadeye onto the pre-made chain plate and mounted it in place as a test. I used some black 0.6mm diameter nails I had on hand. I haven't glued it in yet.

[JSGerson]

I suspect on the actual ship, these metal pieces were painted to protect the bare metal from corrosion. And looking at these pictures closely for the first time, because I haven't reach this stage yet, they are made of two pieces. We are making models, not miniature replicas so this probably won't matter. Just thought you might want to know.

 

Jon

[GGibson]

2 hours ago, mtbediz said:

...I cut 1.5mm-wide strips from 0.4mm thick brass sheeting I had on hand. After cutting the strips and drilling the bolt holes, I chemically blackened them. I haven't decided yet whether to settle for blackening or paint them black as well....

 

The chain plates are looking very good, Mustafa!  I am still learning and testing how to best use the blackening agent I have (I've used the Birchwood Brass Black solution in the past), but mine seems to always come out a bit "greyish" so I've hit it with a swipe of black paint, as well.

 

1 hour ago, JSGerson said:

...looking at these pictures closely for the first time, because I haven't reach this stage yet, they are made of two pieces.

 

 

Thanks for sharing the pictures, Jon!  Very interesting!  Anyone know the reason why, where the chain plate pieces appear to break and the pins/bolts are inserted, some of the pins (looks like every other one?) have a ring inserted through them? A purpose?

 

Thanks, gentlemen!! 👍🏆

[Unegawahya]

3 hours ago, mtbediz said:

I gave up on making the chain plates from brass wire because I'm not very good at hammering 1mm thick brass wire into flat strips. The strips don't come out very smooth. Instead, I cut 1.5mm-wide strips from 0.4mm thick brass sheeting I had on hand. After cutting the strips and drilling the bolt holes, I chemically blackened them. I haven't decided yet whether to settle for blackening or paint them black as well. I mounted a deadeye onto the pre-made chain plate and mounted it in place as a test. I used some black 0.6mm diameter nails I had on hand. I haven't glued it in yet.

If you don’t mind me asking, how are you cutting your brass into strips. I’m going to need more and I can’t seem to find anyone that sells them.

 

Your build is looking wonderful!

[mtbediz]

4 hours ago, Unegawahya said:

If you don’t mind me asking, how are you cutting your brass into strips. I’m going to need more and I can’t seem to find anyone that sells them.

 

Your build is looking wonderful!

Hi Thomas. First, I make a deep mark along the line I’m going to cut using a steel ruler and a sharp knife, and then I cut along that mark with sheet metal shears. This mark prevents the shears from slipping sideways.

Edited September 6 by mtbediz

[mtbediz]

6 hours ago, JSGerson said:

And looking at these pictures closely for the first time, because I haven't reach this stage yet, they are made of two pieces. We are making models, not miniature replicas so this probably won't matter. Just thought you might want to know.

Thanks for sharing these pictures, Jon. Yes, I knew that the chain plates are made in two parts, but I chose to make them as a single piece. If I were building this model for a competition, I would have followed the real-life design. But in the end, this model will just sit in a corner of my living room, waiting to be looked at and the people who’ll look at it will definitely not be experts in sailing warships anyway.

[Unegawahya]

1 hour ago, mtbediz said:

Hi Thomas. First, I make a deep mark along the line I’m going to cut using a steel ruler and a sharp knife, and then I cut along that mark with sheet metal shears. This mark prevents the shears from slipping sideways.

Thank you! Scoring the brass before hand must be what I was missing. 

[GGibson]

2 hours ago, mtbediz said:

...and the people who’ll look at it will definitely not be experts in sailing warships anyway.

 

Well, unless we all come to Turkey to visit, Mustafa! 🤷‍♂️🤣

 

I'm still curious about the purpose of every other chain plate pin having a ring...  Hmmm...

 

I think you have told us before about your process of scoring the brass and then using the sheet metal shears, but thank you for the reminder, sir! 

[Dr PR]

Gregg,

 

I would guess the rings are places to tie up boats, barges, or whatever happens to be alongside.

[mtbediz]

4 hours ago, GGibson said:

 

Well, unless we all come to Turkey to visit, Mustafa! 🤷‍♂️🤣

 

I'm still curious about the purpose of every other chain plate pin having a ring...  Hmmm...

 

I think you have told us before about your process of scoring the brass and then using the sheet metal shears, but thank you for the reminder, sir! 

I'd be very happy if you visited me, you're always welcome. As for the rings, I really don't have any idea about their purpose.

[Der Alte Rentner]

11 hours ago, Unegawahya said:

Thank you! Scoring the brass before hand must be what I was missing. 

Tom,

If the brass sheet that you're using is fairly thin, this is an easier way to go about slicing off strips.. go back a few posts on my build log to see how I used it for the straps that hold carronades onto the gun carriages.

 

Edited September 6 by Der Alte Rentner

[GGibson]

11 hours ago, Dr PR said:

Gregg,

 

I would guess the rings are places to tie up boats, barges, or whatever happens to be alongside.

 

That was my assumption, as well, Phil.  But thought someone else might know of a greater purpose.  Appreciate the feedback! 

 

Sorry to clutter your build log with my questions, Mustafa! 👍

[mtbediz]

10 hours ago, GGibson said:

Sorry to clutter your build log with my questions, Mustafa! 

Here, anyone can ask anything Greg. We all learn. It's a wonderful thing.

[mtbediz]

12 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

Tom,

If the brass sheet that you're using is fairly thin, this is an easier way to go about slicing off strips.. go back a few posts on my build log to see how I used it for the straps that hold carronades onto the gun carriages.

Looks like a great cutter, Peter. What's the maximum thickness of brass sheet metal it can cut? And if you don't mind me asking where you bought it?

[woodartist]

1 hour ago, mtbediz said:

What's the maximum thickness of brass sheet metal it can cut? And if you don't mind me asking where you bought it?

Fiskars cutters are available from Amazon, they have a cutter that will cut 30 sheet thickness of paper for $60 and  one that will cut 12 sheets of paper thickness $22

[Der Alte Rentner]

12 hours ago, mtbediz said:

Looks like a great cutter, Peter. What's the maximum thickness of brass sheet metal it can cut? And if you don't mind me asking where you bought it?

The sheet brass I have on hand is .28mm thick.  I imagine the Fisker's cutter could manage a bit more material without difficulty.  Woodartist is correct, Amazon is the easiest source to find these, but I think you can get them at any good office supply store too. 

[mtbediz]

I started mounting the chain plates to the fore channel.

 

 

Edited yesterday at 10:46 AM by mtbediz

[rturcic72]

You definitely make it look perfect.  I started rigging the carronades on the deck and that has been a painful and time-consuming process.  Trying to push thread through such tiny holes is just something else and lots of trial and error figuring out how long to make the lines so that when they connect the carronade to the fitting on the ship it looks tight and neat...none that I have accomplished yet, lol.  I really don't know any easier way, but to move at a snail's pace and do it really slowly. 

[JSGerson]

Pushing thread (miniature rope) through small openings can be frustrating. What a lot of us do is dip the tip of the line into some thin CA glue so it wicks into the threads. Once the CA dries and the tip is rigid, I take an X-acto knife and cut a long sharp point in the stiff line. This makes it easier to get through the eyebolts, blocks, or whatever you are trying to get through. You are going to waste a lot of line cutting off excess material after you adjust the line for length. It's just the nature of the process. Remember, the process is a journey, not a race, so "stop and smell the roses" (not the glue 😁) as you move along.

 

Jon

[Der Alte Rentner]

Fantastic job!  I can't wait until I've finished the fife rails so I can start on this fun aspect of the build 😁

[rturcic72]

Jon, you're absolutely right.  The glue does help, and the thread is still flexible.  The challenge is making the size adjustments between the fittings on the ship to the carronades. So far, it has taken me two days to rig two carronades.  The first one came out pretty decent, but not perfect because this is my first time working with very tiny parts.  The second one was a little tough because I made them a couple millimeters longer than they should be, so I've been working around that.  I also used the original thread for tying the breech.  After seeing the first one, I decided to use a thicker thread instead.  The original thread was already known to be inadequate.  I use the original thread for rigging the carronades and the thicker thread that is fray resistant for the breeches.

[mtbediz]

4 hours ago, rturcic72 said:

Jon, you're absolutely right.  The glue does help, and the thread is still flexible.  The challenge is making the size adjustments between the fittings on the ship to the carronades. So far, it has taken me two days to rig two carronades.  The first one came out pretty decent, but not perfect because this is my first time working with very tiny parts.  The second one was a little tough because I made them a couple millimeters longer than they should be, so I've been working around that.  I also used the original thread for tying the breech.  After seeing the first one, I decided to use a thicker thread instead.  The original thread was already known to be inadequate.  I use the original thread for rigging the carronades and the thicker thread that is fray resistant for the breeches.

Prepare the tackle outside as shown in the photo and tighten it with a pair of tweezers after attaching it in place. This will make it much easier.

 

Edited Wednesday at 04:25 PM by mtbediz

[rturcic72]

You did an amazing job with the chain plates.  Also you carronades are incredible.  The thread in the kit is definitely not high quality like yours.  You got actual hooks and that was not part of the kit so I had to make those, but yours is so much better and really clean.  None of the thread in the kit looks as nice as what you have and we're stuck with it because the holes in the blocks are not large enough for the good stuff.  I like that you use eye bolts and think that's a better way to go, unfortunatelywe only get so many in the kit and 4 eyebolts areinstalled on the carriage, 2 in the back where the wheels are, and 2 in the middle wall structure supporting the cannon barrel.  The we had to install 2 eye bolts, 1 on each side of the gunport opening, then we had to make these tiny fittings from polystyrene with 2 holes in it and those were glued in the center between every gunport horizontally.  Then we had another fitting shaped in a rectangle with a one hole.  These were glued between each eyebolt and the fitting with the 2 holes vertically. after those were painted black and glued, you had 2 lines connected from the eyebolt in the middle of the carronade to the eye bolts near the gunport openings.  Then you had to rig 2 more lines that were longer connecting the eyebolts on the back of the carronade to 1 hole in the fitting that has 2 holes.  The 2nd hole is for the next carronade next to the 1 you're working on.  The final thread or rope is for the breech.  That rigging line connects to the vertical fitting with the single hole and those are tied in one knot with a drop of glue and then routed through the hole on the breech of the cannon and then tied to the last vertical fitting with 1 knot and glue.  So, there are 5 rigging lines for each carronade.  You have to glue one of the hooks either on the carronade or the fitting otherwise they will keep popping off because you are manipulating the cannon and then trying to get the hook into the last eyebolt.So this is the challenge I have to deal with for the kit.  Sure doing this by hand brings out a unique type of authenticity, but really, it's a pain in the A$$ because it takes a long while to make sure the lines are long enough and that can change for each carronade.  Getting the right rope size is what's killing me right now.

[JSGerson]

Here are two sources of miniature rope I've used and recommend, I am sure there are others.

 

Ropes of Scale: https://ropesofscale.com/

Syren Ship Model Company: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/

 

Jon

[GGibson]

47 minutes ago, rturcic72 said:

None of the thread in the kit looks as nice as what you have and we're stuck with it because the holes in the blocks are not large enough for the good stuff...  Getting the right rope size is what's killing me right now.

 

9 minutes ago, JSGerson said:

Here are two sources of miniature rope I've used and recommend, I am sure there are others.

 

Ropes of Scale: https://ropesofscale.com/

Syren Ship Model Company: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/

 

Like Jon, I strongly recommend both Ropes of Scale and Syren for your replacement rope, deadeyes and blocks.  On the last few ships I have worked on, including the Ballahoo, and the Bluenose, I have exclusively used Ropes of Scale for all of my rigging rope and Syren for all of my blocks and deadeyes, and will place an order with Chuck at Syren when the time comes to replace all of the kit-provided blocks and deadeyes on my Constitution.  (I think I have a pretty decent supply of rope already from Ropes of Scale, but will replenish that as needed, again when the time comes.)

 

However, back to Mustafa and his work, he's done an awesome job of making his own carronade blocks.  I'm just not that good!