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Posted
5 hours ago, Arthur Goulart said:

 I wonder how much of Fyen's rig was kept original. Also, thanks for the feedback on the book.

 

Probably not too much, unfortunately. Acc. to 'Den historiske modelsamling på Holmen', by P. Holck from 1939, the masts and rig suffered considerable damage in the 1795 fire. It was supposedly meticulously restored afterwards. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Dear fellow modelshipbuilder, 

 

Today I would like to show you some progress I have made on the roof area above the quarter gallery, which I have now completed on the starboard side at least.
The basic shape of the roof naturally follows the curve of the side gallery and is finished at the top with a curved decorative strip, which resembles the upper edge of the transom in its design.
An eaves cornice is arranged at the transition to the gallery front. The roof surface itself is covered with a sculpturally designed bas-relief depicting a collection of victory trophies.

 

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Here is a detailed photo of the wax model in the Krigsmuseet in Copenhagen.


Similar trophy collections can be found on the facades of European palaces, and in the field of shipbuilding, a trophy relief by the Swedish sculptor Johann Törnström has been preserved in Stockholm.

 

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For my model, I first roughly carved the basic shape out of a piece of boxwood and adapted it to the model.

 

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The drawing was then transferred to the surface, which then had to be carved out.
I followed the model rather than the drawing. Both show a Roman muscle armor in the middle with an oval shield placed next to it, but the weapons and equipment protruding behind them differ. As I said, I followed the model. On the left is a bundle of tent poles tied together with a bow underneath, on the right a cavalry helmet with a plume, a small barrel of provisions with a blanket over it, a flag, and various weapons such as swords, daggers, lances, spears, etc. protruding from above.

 

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As in the model, I then painted the background, which is part of the actual roof surface, black, which was almost more difficult than carving the reliefs.

 

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Then all that remained was to install the element on the model and frame it with the finishing strips described above.
All in all, it took a good week of work (one hour every evening).

 

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Best regards,
Matthias

 

Edited by Beckmann
Posted

Simply unbelievable. 

Current Builds: Billy 1938 Homemade Sternwheeler

                            Mosquito Fleet Mystery Sternwheeler

                            Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                            Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Sternwheeler and Barge from the Susquehanna Rivers Hard Coal Navy

                      1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                      1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

 Perfection is an illusion, often chased, never caught

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Dear fellow model builders,

Thank you for your comments and likes.

Recently, I have been working on the ornaments on my model. I have already presented the bas-reliefs on the roof surface, and now I am continuing with the surfaces below the gallery level. These are decorated with acanthus garlands, which were executed as flat wax reliefs on the original model. I have purchased modeling wax, but I am sticking with boxwood for the design. I am still a little unfamiliar with the wax, and it is also very delicate. To make it possible to carve these delicate parts at all, I laser-cut a frame in the shape of the ornaments, into which they can be loosely inserted. This worked surprisingly well. The part can be worked on easily there, nothing slips away, and when pressure is applied, the garland lies against the edge of the mold without breaking. The garlands initially have a material thickness of approx. 2.5 mm. Once the shape has been carved from the “top,” working approx. 1.5 mm, it is sanded down from the back until it is approx. 1 to 1.5 mm thick overall. This makes it very fragile, of course, but that doesn't matter because it only needs to be placed on the fields. Despite the very stiff boxwood, the ornament can be easily bent to fit the partially rounded surface. Holding it in place for a moment after gluing is enough to ensure that everything stays where it should.

 

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Then dab the ornament with a little furniture oil, which will deepen the color.

Best regards,
Matthias

 

 

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