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Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54


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So a thorough search of AOTS did not address the hatch covers. It does title the openings as Airing Ports and Light Ports. The drawings in AOTS show the covers being somewhat flush with the hull, as does the photo of the replica in Sydney. I think I am going to go with Veszett idea. Unfortunately I have made 4 so I will need to see if I can remove the hardware. 

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2 hours ago, Bill97 said:

 Unfortunately I have made 4 so I will need to see if I can remove the hardware.

Try to use them for the open ports, carefully carve their openings into the hull. With this you will not risk the fittings on the covers. If you not satisfied with the openings you can cover the "hole" later and can try to remove the hardware then. 

Heat them carefully, this will melt the glue and you can easily remove the metal parts from wood.

 

As for other topic regarding plastic or wood for me the considerable key is the size and scale. For instance an 1mm (sorry, cannot tell in imperial scale, maybe 1/16 or less) stanchion is  equal of 15 cm (5.8 in) in my usual 1:150 scale. This is quite a thick pole, isn't it? You cannot made it from wood, but easily from plastic.

Contrary, a 3 mm thick plywood door would mean a 45 cm thick one in scale, probably a size of a real rudder.

However, wood models have uncomparable beauty which you cannot mimic by different material. Varnished wood is unbeatable at any way.

 

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Bill, it never ceases to amaze me how you just consider, decide, do it, without all the procrastination. I'd probably have spent another week dithering over the merits of each approach and trying out another five (often bad) ideas. They look great, right choice.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

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I'd swap your problem for mine every time.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

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Hi Bill

I just saw this post after the numerous replies. The hatches are meant to be flush with the outer planks when closed, the Occre instructions are wrong unfortunately.  See this picture of the replica vessel.

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Current Build: HMB Endeavour 1:51 (Eaglemoss part work)

Previous Builds: USS Constitution (Revell plastic) HMS Victory 1:96 (Corel) HMB Endeavour 1:60 (AL)

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Posted (edited)

Thanks shipaholic.  Looking at the photo it appears I may have been better served had I tried Kevin’s suggestion:

 

Is there any scope for an (e), similar to (d)? Simulate the hatches by directly cutting fine outlines and planking into the hull with a modelling knife? 

 

See Kevin what I mean about me making my decision to quickly 🥲?

 

Not sure I could have cut convincing lines and puttied in the current veneer, so probably best I did a middle ground. 

 

Edited by Bill97
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So next curiosity is to add lanyards to the hatch cover rings or not?  In your photo shipaholic it appears lanyards are present and go up over the bulwark instead of into a hole above the cover. 

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7 hours ago, Bill97 said:

See Kevin what I mean about me making my decision to quickly 🥲?

 

Not sure I could have cut convincing lines and puttied in the current veneer, so probably best I did a middle ground. 

Illustrates the point perfectly - you are decisive and you make good, rational decisions. I do this all the time in the day job and on home maintenance and always feel content with that. But models… another story.

 

I think the lanyards look untidy and a bit ‘not ship-shape’. Same with that rope sagging down. 

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Davits made, installed, and touched up. Channels under construction and insulation.

 

"Insulation"?  Have you been auto-corrected?

 

Looking good Bill! 👍

Edited by Ian_Grant
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Good work Bill!  Sure is a crowded quarterdeck - bitts, mainmast, bitts, hatch, windlass, skylight, binnacle, wheel, and mizzenmast all chock-a-block. Still can't see how they could have employed the windlass effectively.

 

I saw a rumour here on MSW that Occre might be coming out with a model of "Great Eastern"; that might tempt me to the dark side of wood modelling. 🤔

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Have you guys noticed, or maybe it is just me? Every time I look in to see what is going on on MSW I have to sign in. In the past I stayed signed in, unless I signed out. That was so convenient. Maybe moderator knows. 

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Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Every time I look in to see what is going on on MSW I have to sign in.

Sign in status is controlled by HTML cookies - those are tiny codes which downloaded to your computer, and when you log in to the site, your computer sends back the code which proves that you're already logged in. Therefore if that cookie is missing, the site will think that you didn't yet logged in, transfers you to the username-password page, and upon the succesful login will deliver the cookie. The cookie will be sent to your computer only if the "remember me" option ticked in.
image.png.56d55105b28251bd7616c229c00ee72c.png
Now two things. First, those cookies has expiration time, and the site admins can set shorter or longer periods, how long those codes are valid. Once a cookie ran out of this time, the site will sense that your login has expired and request a new login to deliver the new code.

Second, your browser could be set to delete cookies after exit - mine (Firefox) is set this way, so i have to login every time too. Different kind of browsers have different settings, but all has this option under the security section.

Edited by Veszett Roka
typo correction
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Well as you all know and have experienced some days are spent fixing “oh shoot” moments. Kevin this may be where your over analysis, as you explained it, avoids screw ups. I was dry fitting the cannon carriages along the rails and discovered the placement of the fore channels would result in a cannon being right behind a deadeye and shroud, which obviously would not be good 🥴.  I had wrongly installed the fire channels about 5mm to far toward the stern. I had to cut them away from the wale and remove the little knee braces. Cutting them away did damage a section of the wale behind the channel so I trimmed it away and replaced the piece of wood. Sanding of the channel, the knees, and the new wood on the wale, along with repainting and staining should make it ready for reinstalling the channel at the proper spot. 

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A few days since my last update. Fixed the incorrectly installed fore channels and then moved on to cannon production, installation, and rigging. I took a bit of artistic privilege in my carriage color scheme. They are red on the replica but I wanted to stain them and paint the wheels gold. Also highlighted the barrels with gold. I added a small block of wood under the carriage to increase glue surface to the deck. Added the gun tackles to each side of the carriage, which OcCre does not have in the instructions. Used 3mm single and double blocks I had on hand. I put the eyebolts for the breaching rope in the deck instead of the ship side. Rigging to the eyebolts is further needed. Still need to add the support butts under barrels and level them.  Will also add the brass pans on top the trunnions. I needed to fabricate the butts and trunnion pans since these are not OcCre parts. Will need to decide if I want to further add the train tackle behind each carriage.  Over all I am pleased with the cannons. So glad I do not have to make a 100 like on the Victory and Soleil Royal. 😊

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Nicely recovered Bill. Busy looking deck, isn't it.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

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So looking ahead at the next steps in the building instructions for my OcCre Endeavour I am too add the deadeyes and chains to the channels. From my previous builds experience I am thinking this is too early for this step. On past builds I had the lower mast sections in place and the mast tops. This enabled me to run a straight line with a loose shroud from the mast top down through the appropriate deadeye and then on down through the chain. There by having the chain line up with the angle of the shroud and also have the deadeye turned to where the holes line up correctly as well. Is this the way you guys do it as well?

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