Norwegian Sailing Pram by MBerg - Model Shipways - 1:12

[MBerg]

Time, for an update, but first I have a few questions. Unlike the dory, I'll be priming this one. I have both Occre and ME primers show below:

1. Instructions suggest spray on primer (eg. Rust-Oleum primer) - Should I buy some of that instead of brush on?

2. If I don't use spray primer, does the brush on primer need to be thinned similar to the paint?

2a. Is one better than the other between ME & Occre or is this more of a personal preference/doesn't matter type of thing?

 

Log #9 - Row locks, rub rails, dagger board, rudder, thwarts

 

Progress has been slow, but it has been. I enjoyed making the row lock pads, I find a lot of kit modelling is sanding off char and then sanding some more so it was nice to do a little carving, even though it was incredibly basic. They're straightforward, as is the rudder gudgeon pad.

 

I clamped a block of wood and used an 'upside down' chisel blade to carve them, then clamped to drill them out and cleaned up.

 

 

 

 

 

The rub rails are self explanatory, nothing special here, and the pads glued in place.

 

 

 

 

 

It was nice to have some of the work on the thwarts done from earlier steps. All that was left was to sand down the width of the middle thwart. I already fit the forward and aft thwarts, they just need some cleaning up to take the char & edges off.

 

 

Sanding the rubber went smoothly. However, it felt like I sanded the daggerboard for an eternity, and it still isn't as loose as I'd like. I'm trying to avoid it getting jammed in place once painted and installed. I feel like I've taken off enough thickness from the daggerboard, I'm going to try filing down the inside of the daggerboard case some more to make for a looser fit before painting.

 

 

 

 

In a full shot up above you can see I still hadn't finished the tiller slot on the rear transom yet. I wasn't sure what to do with this yet since the instructions incorrectly stated a 3/8" file (I believe it's probably 3/16" as mentioned by at least one other). Rather than buying a file for this purpose, I wrapped a piece of sandpaper around my brush handle and sanded it out that way. This worked fine and is complete now (no picture).

 

If I remember right, I believe I need to complete the dagger board 'stop', add the midship thwart 'retainers' and refine the remaining thwarts before I'm ready to paint.

 

I'm keeping my eye on the price of the PROXXON Disk Sander TG 125/E as I feel like it'll be a nice first power tool to add. I believe it'll help with cleaning up char and more importantly getting precise angles that I sometimes struggle with. If anyone has an experience with it, or other recommendations I appreciate any input!

 

Thanks for following,

Matt

[Jim M]

@MBerg 

 

In my opinion is that you should use a lacquer based primer and spray it on. If you want to use an acrylic base primer,  Monument Hobbies (ProAcryl) makes a fantastic spray primer. Similarly Mr Hobby (Mr Surfacer) with their Aqueous Surfacer 1000. 

 

I do really like Mr Surfacer 1000 lacquer primer for the first priming. It fills in the minor defects. The product is also available as spray.

 

Before I lay down any paint I will sand and smooth out the primer with 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper. Finally I will then hit it with Mr Surfacer 1500 and then lightly sand after it is cured.

 

I found the Model Expo paint to be grainy at best;  the paint does not thin well, either with isopropyl or water or medium. 

 

When I paint with acrylics I always use a retarder, and I thin it to help the paint lay down smoothly. To thin I generally used both a retarder and acrylic thinner and/or medium.

 

I do recommend that you seal your model with either a sanding sealer or shellac. If using shellac i thin it it 1:1 with isopropyl, then I sand lightly with 400 grit paper, and then apply a second coat to remove the raising of the grain. After that, I then prime and paint.

 

jim

Edited November 19 by Jim M
Fixed typos, and grammer

[MBerg]

@Jim M that's interesting, I'll look a bit into it. So is the idea to seal the wood with shellac then paint over it as mentioned above? 

 

I haven't come across something like this yet,is it what's typically done on plastic models which is why it's sealed first? I see Mr surfacer is meant for plastic (thought I might be looking at the wrong thing,I only did a quick Google)

[Jim M]

49 minutes ago, MBerg said:

@Jim M that's interesting, I'll look a bit into it. So is the idea to seal the wood with shellac then paint over it as mentioned above? 

 

I haven't come across something like this yet,is it what's typically done on plastic models which is why it's sealed first? I see Mr surfacer is meant for plastic (thought I might be looking at the wrong thing,I only did a quick Google)

 I use Surfacer on plastic, wood and metal with no issues. The Dory I finish I used all of Mr Hobby paints. 

[MBerg]

Once again, I appreciate the response.

 

One last question - I was given a 'wood conditioner' with the kit. This is strictly a pre-stain and has nothing to do with the painting process - is that correct?

[Jim M]

2 hours ago, MBerg said:

Once again, I appreciate the response.

 

One last question - I was given a 'wood conditioner' with the kit. This is strictly a pre-stain and has nothing to do with the painting process - is that correct?

 

I suspect it is a sealer of some form, but a sealer blocks staining. I normally stain first then seal the wood.