HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne 1763 by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Admiralty Style

[Glenn-UK]

There are a few different planking and rigging ideas I want to experiment and the HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne kit ticked all the boxes for this task. One of the methods I wish to try out is the use of steam to bend bend and twist the planks. The twisting of tapered planks around the bow region, I think, should produce the same result as Chuck's lateral planking method which I have tended to use, with limited success, on some of my last recent builds.

 

I can also see the benefit with twisting some planks in the stern area, particularly those that fold under the stern counter and with the lower garboard plank(s) which twists toward the stern post area. There are some excellent YouTube videos, showing this method on Jason's Modelkit Stuff YouTube channel.

 

The Sherbourne kit is scheduled for delivery tomorrow (4th December 2024) morning and the shipyard is ready and waiting for the new arrival.

 

My next my major project will be the Harpy (Vanguard Models) which may arrive later in the week, but will probably arrive sometime next week, depending on when @chris watton receives the manual and plan sheets from the printers.

Edited December 3, 2024 by ccoyle
corrected log title

[chris watton]

I have Harpy manual and box label with me, just waiting for the plan set, so shouldn't be too long now

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

 

Stage 1 – Hull Construction Part 1

 

Hull Construction – Pre bevelling of Bulkheads
Build Steps	1-2	Laser etched guidelines are provided on bulkheads 1-4 and 13-17 and chamfers were added to these bulkheads. Once the basic hull had been assembled all the bulkheads will be faired to the required shape, so the planks are in full contact.
Parts	1-17
Time Taken	30 mins

 

Hull Construction – Keel Assembly and Lower Deck
Build Steps	3-9	Bulkheads 1-16 were then slotted in place to the false keel but were not glued in place at this stage of the build process. Bulkhead 17 will be fitted at a later stage in the build process. Next the left and right keel doublers were slotted in place. I did add the chamfer using the laser etch guide lines before they were fitted. The locking pegs were then glued in place to ensure the keel doublers were correctly aligned with the false hull. After a test fit of the lower deck glue was applied to the top contact areas on the bulkheads and the deck then added using the laser etched “top” marking to ensure the correct orientation.
Parts	1-18, 19L, 19R, 22, 23
Time Taken	15 mins

 

Hull Construction – Bow Frames, Longitudinal Support and Deck Camber Beams
Build Steps	10-12	The two bow frames, after a test fit were chamfered and then they were glued in place. Next the two longitudinal support patterns were chamfer and glued in place, after a test fit. With reference to the plan sheet the various deck camber beams were glued in place. All excess glue was removed from the top edges, where the deck will be placed.
Parts	20L, 20R, 21L, 21R, 24, 25
Time Taken	15 mins

Although I have not seen any reference to it I think the top edge of bulkhead 17 will require a chamfer so the deck, when fitted, will sit flush. I think can be seen in the following build manual photo.

With bulkhead 17 in place I have marked the top edge that needs to be chamfered.

[Glenn-UK]

 

Stage 1 – Hull Construction Part 2

 

Hull Construction – Stern Frames, Gluing Hull Frame and Sub Deck
Build Steps	13-19	After a test fit of the inner and outer stern frames the laser char was removed from the visible edges as I felt this would be easier to do prior to their installation. Once I had cleaned and glued the stern frames in place a diluted wood glue solution was brushed to all the bulkhead / false keel and lower deck joints. The final task of this section of the build was to add the sub deck. Glue was applied to all the keel and bulkhead contact points and the sub deck was slotted into place, checking that the sub deck was clicking into the locating slots on each bulkhead. As an added precaution diluted wood glue was then bushed into all the sub deck joints.
Parts	109, 110, 29
Time Taken	30 minutes

 

Hull Construction –Sub Deck Items Dry Fit
Build Steps		It is now a good time, before bulwarks and planking has been added, to check that the various deck items will pass the the sub deck openings and will then locate in slots provided in the lower deck. As can be seen in the next three photos everything aligned up perfectly and there is also a nice rake angel for the mast.
Parts
Time Taken	10 minutes

 

Hull Construction – Transom and Stern Counter
Build Steps	20-21	I decided it would be prudent to soak the inner stern counter in warm water for a few minutes before clamping it to the curved section of the stern frames. I used a hair dry to accelerate the drying process once the wetted pattern had been clamped in place. I also added a chamfer to the lower inside edge for a better fit. Once I was happy with the fit the stern counter it was glued and clamped to the stern frames, using the laser etched guides. After an initial  test fit of the inner transom pattern I added a chamfer to the bottom edge to ensure a nice tight fit with the stern counter. It was then glued and clamped in place.
Parts	62, 63
Time Taken	10 mins

 

Basic Hull Construction Completed
Build Steps		The basic (stage 1) hull build is now complete and the Sherbourne is now ready for the next stage which is fairing and 1st planking. I am also expecting to take delivery of the Harpy tomorrow (6th December) but I will do my best to resist making a start on the Harpy until I have completed the first planking on the Sherbourne.
Parts
Time Taken

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 2 - Fairing The Hull

 

Hull Construction – Fairing The Hull
Build Steps	21-22	This is an important task to get right and requires plenty of test fitting of planks during the fairing process. I used a mixture of a sanding block fitted with 220 grit sandpaper, a 400 grit sanding stick and 220 grit sandpaper. As can seen in the following photos the planking seems to be sitting fully on the various bulkheads.
Parts
Time Taken	60 mins

 

Hull Construction – Fairing The Hull
Build Steps	21-22	When doing a test fit of the bulwarks there is still a little bit of fairing work required at the stern, as can be seen in the next photo. The bulwarks do line up perfectly with the deck however.

 

Hull Construction – Adding Prow and Keel Bottom
Build Steps	23-27	There are two prow supports to be glued to the prow, using a locking peg to help with the correct alignment. The leading edges of the prow supports were chamfered before they were fitted. The prow and keel were then glued and clamped to the hull assembly.
Parts	57, 65, 107, 108
Time Taken	10 mins

 

 

[EspenT]

Great looking photos and I really like the format of your build log. Very clear and easy to follow. 

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 3 Fitting the Outer Bulwark Patterns

 

Hull Construction – Installing Bulwark Patterns
Build Steps	23-30	The outer bulwark patterns were test fitted but I felt there was not enough give to bend these parts around the bow. After the bow ends were soaked in warm water for a few minutes it was then possible to test fit the parts and to clamp them in place to allow the patterns to fully dry out. As can be seen in the following photos I did make sure the patterns were aligned with the laser etched deck and bulkhead guidelines. I will do another couple of test fits to make sure I am totally happy with the fit. Before gluing these pattern in place I will also experiment with a new (for me) planking method.
Parts	30L, 30R
Time Taken	10 mins

 

Stage 4 First Planking Testing Method Bow

 

Hull Construction – Testing First Planking Method - Bow
Build Steps	31-32	One of the reasons I bought this kit was to try out a new method of planking which I had seen on Jason’s “Modelkit Stuff” YouTube channel. I am using some spare planking material for this task. With the plank held in place I added a pencil mark on the plank where it starts to overlap the bulwark, as shown in the first photo. I decided that I would trim the plank down to half its full width. After drawing a line I placed the plank in my strip clamp as shown in the second photo below. The excess material was then removed using my mini place and then a sanding stick. Once I had worked out the bending requirements the plank was held in pliers over a boiling kettle so the bend could be formed, as shown in the 3rd photo below. As can be seen in the forth photo I had made a slight error of judgement when tapering to half width as there is a small gap between the plank and the bulwark. As a minor adjustment the plank is an almost perfect fit as shown in the fifth photo. It is good to be able to practice this method with spare material. As the test plank was sitting slightly proud I added to chamfer to the top edge which solved the problem.
Parts	5 mins
Time Taken

 

Stage 5  First Planking Testing Method Stern

 

Hull Construction – Testing First Planking Method - Bow
Build Steps	31-32	The stern area requires a slightly different approach in order for the plank to sit flat on the last few bulkheads. A twist in the plank is required. After marking the point where the twist should occur I used the same steam method to create the required twist. The twisted plank is shown in the first photo below. The second photo shows the test fit and the plank does now sit flush on all the bulkheads without any undue force or stress. The more observant will also note that the chamfered top edge is now on the bottom as I did apply the twist the wrong way in my first test piece. Good job I am only practicing with spare material, although I could redo the twist on this plank with more steam!!
Parts
Time Taken

Edited December 7, 2024 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 5  First Planking Part 1

 

Hull Construction –First Planking Method – First Three Planks
Build Steps	31-32	I have now started the first planking task. The first two photos shows the first plank in place. When fitting the planks I start by positioning and marking the plank against one of the central bulkheads as a reference point. This is shown in the third photo below. I then mark the point at which the plank starts to overlap around the bow area. I also mark the point where a slight twist in the plank will help with the fit around the stern. I then draw the required bow taper so the plank width is approx 3mm wide when the plank meets the prow. The tapered plank is then test fitted and, when necessary the taper is tweaked for a better fit. I also add a chamfer to the top edge of the plank. Next using steam from a boiling kettle the bend is applied to the bow end and the twist to the stern end of the plank. Once I am happy with the shaping, I check the position of the plank with the pencil marking on the central bulkhead and adjust the markings as necessary so the plank is a good fit with the prow. Once that is done, I applied glue to all the bulkheads and the plank is positioned to the central bulkhead, using the pencil alignment.  The pins are then added, started from the centre and moving toward the stern and bow one pin at a time.  Once the planks has been pinned any excess wood glue wiped away. The final two photos shows the Sherbourne after three planks per side have been added. In total there will be approx. 12 planks per side required at the widest point with some stealers required at the stern.
Parts
Time Taken	120 minutes

 

[cotrecerf]

Hello Glenn-UK,

I wonder, why there are these (many) oblong holes provided in the keel and the bow and how they are going to be closed later on?  Will you paint the hull, so they will be covered completely, imho with a bare wood hull they disturbe the flow of the wood grain visibly.

 

cheers

 

Joachim

[Glenn-UK]

Hello Joachim

There are outer patterns to be added to the keel and prow which forms the rabbet. Locking keys, which are pushed in the oblong slots, are used to align these patterns.

 

Thanks

Glenn

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 2 (Garboard Plank)

 

Hull Construction –First Planking Method – Adding Garboard Plank
Build Steps	31-32	I have now fitted the garboard plank and its adjacent plank on both sides. I used the same method, as per my first three planks, when fitting these planks.
Time Taken	60 mins	Photo 1 shows the first step where the centre bulkhead is aligned with the plank (Blue arrow). The bow shaping has also been started but still needs a little bit of sanding. The yellow arrow indicates where a slight twist will be added using steam from a boiling kettle.
		Photo 2 shows the stern area and the yellow arrow indicates where a twist will be added using steam from a boiling kettle.
		Photos 3 & 4 were taken after I had applied the twists and I am test fitting the bow and stern sections before gluing the plank in place.
		Photos 5 to 8 shows the current garboard plank build status and were taken after the second plank had been added. 5 planks have now been fitted per side which means another 7 planks per side are required to complete the 1st planking task. Adding the twists to planks has been an eye opener for me and has certainly made the planking task easier.

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 3

 

Hull Construction –First Planking Method
Build Steps	31-32	I have continued with the first planking working down toward the keel. It takes me approx. 20 minutes to fit each plank. This can be split down to 5 minutes to test fit, taper and to add a bevel to the top edge of the plank. It then takes me 5 minutes to bend the plank using steam from a boiling kettle. The steam process sometimes requires 3 or 4 kettle boils to get the required bend (bow and stern). It then takes me around 10 minutes to glue and pin the plank to the hull and to then clean away any excess wood glue.   Overall I am pleased with this new method of fitting the planks and although the planking is not perfect I am not suffering, as much, with a clinkered effect. One of the other positives is that I bought a new pin pusher which is so much easier to use than my other two pin pushers.   The most beneficial aspect of the steam bending process, in my opinion, is the ability to add twists to some of the planks which ensures the planks sit flat across the bulkheads.   You may also note a red tinge on one of the attached photos, as I did manage to cut my finger when trimming a plank and did not realise until I noticed the blood on the hull.   In the final photo of this photo you will note that I require exactly two planks to complete the planking along with some stern stealers.
Time Taken	210 mins

 

[palmerit]

12 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

I bought a new pin pusher

Can I ask what pin pusher? I don't like mine at all.

[Glenn-UK]

12 hours ago, palmerit said:

Can I ask what pin pusher? I don't like mine at all.

It is the Amati pin pusher which I bought from Cornwall Model Boats.

Edited December 11, 2024 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 4 – Task Completed

 

Hull Construction –First Planking Completed
Build Steps	31-32	Today I added the final two planks per side followed by the steelers which means I have now completed the first planking.   I have also trimmed the excess planks material around the stern area and the hull is now ready to be sanded smooth. I will  use my mouse sander initially before reverting to a sanding block, sandpaper and sanding sticks. The mouse sander will be a great help when reducing the plank depth around the stern area so the second planking, when fitted, will sit flush with the keel and stern post.   This is the best first planking  I have managed in all of my boat builds, but there is still a lot of room for improvement.
Time Taken	120 mins

 

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 6 – Sanding First Planking Part 1 – Checking Rabbet

 

Hull Construction –Checking Rabbet – Left-hand side
Build Steps	33	Before I started the hull sanding process, I thought it would be beneficial to dry fit the outer prow and keel patterns. In the first two photos I have indicated where the rabbet needs to be opened up (yellow arrow) and where some filler will be required (blue arrow).
Time Taken	10 mins

 

Hull Construction –Checking Rabbet – Right-hand side
Build Steps	33	As can be seen in the next photo the outer bulwark pattern does fit in the rabbet. However, there is work required to open (yellow arrow) and fill (blue arrow) some of the rabbet along the prow and keel, where the second planking will terminate as shown in the second photo (yellow arrow).
Time Taken	5 mins

 

Hull Construction – Modified Rabbets left and right
Build Steps	33	In the following three photos the rectification work has been completed and I am now happy that the second planking will locate in the rabbet. In the final photo you can see a test plank has been successfully slotted in the keel rabbet. I have also started to work out the curved shape. As you will note my first shaping still requires more work. I find it is easier to test fit the garboard plank bow shaping on a test piece before the outer pattern have been glued in place.
Time Taken	30 mins

 

Hull Construction – Hull Sanding
Build Steps	33	I have also completed sanding the hull smooth. I smothered the hull  with wood filler and once it had dried I used my mouse sanding and sandpaper to remove most of the wood filler, the remaining filler was left in the depressions. I also sanded the dead area (stern) to ensure the second planking, when fitted, will sit flues with the keel and stern post.
Time Taken	30 mins	Sorry I  forget to take some photos of the sanded hull but I try to remember to add some in my next post.

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 7 – Fitting Outer Prow, Keel and Bulwark Patterns

 

Hull Construction –Prow nd Keel Outer Patterns
Build Steps	33-36	The two prow outer patterns were glued in place, using the locking keys to help with the correct alignment. I also used a pin to check the various holes in these patterns were aligned with each other. Once that was done, I repeated the process for the two outer keel patterns. I used plenty of clamps to hold these patterns in place whilst the glue cured.
Time Taken	10 mins

 

Hull Construction – Outer Bulwark Patterns
Build Steps	37-38	I soaked the two outer bulwark patterns in warm water for a few minutes and then clamped them to the hull and left them overnight to fully dry out and to retain the required bend.
Time Taken	20 mins

 

Stage 7 – Start Of Second Planking

 

Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking
Build Steps	33	With the two outer bulwark patterns still clamped, but not glued to the hull, I started the second planking.   I started with the upper most plank for both sides. I wetted each plank so I could manipulate the required bend at the bow and stern using my hands. Once I was happy with the dry fit I applied some ca glue to the hull and then fitted the slightly wetted planks. The outer bulwark patterns were then removed from the hull. I then added two further upper level planks per side.   Next I added the garboard and it’s adjacent plank to both sides. It took a bit more time to fit these planks as I had to ensure I had the correct shaping to these planks when fitted to the bow.
Time Taken	60 mins

 

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 8 – Second Planking

 

Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking – Appling a lateral bend
Build Steps	33	I have reverted to using Chuck’s lateral bending method as it is yielding much better results than the method used for the first couple of upper planks. After wetting the plank, I used clamps to apply a lateral bend. I then used a hairdryer to dry the plank so it hold’s its shape once the clamps are removed. Please refer to the first two photos below in respect to the above   In the third photo below a laterally bent plank is being test fitted and this plank looks OK. Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the bending process to get the required lateral bend.
Time Taken	5 mins

Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking – Adding a plank
Build Steps	33	Before fitting the plank, The area where the ca glue needs to be added is marked. This is shown in the first photo below.   The plank is dampened, as this helps the adhesion with ca glue. Ca glue is then added to the hull along the marked area. Starting at the bow the plank is pushed into the rabbet and then is pressed down working back toward the stern, ensuring any excess ca glue is wiped away. The final three photos show the end result after 7 upper planks have been fitted to both sides.
Time Taken	10 mins

 

Hull Construction – Completing Second Planking – Starboard Side
Build Steps	33	A total of 15 off full planks were required for the second planking on the starboard side. I am really pleased with the end result. Although more work is required to improve my technique, this is without my best work with regards to adding the second planking.
Time Taken	60 mins

Hull Construction – Completing Second Planking – Port Side
Build Steps	33	I have added 11 planks to the port side, so there are 4 more planks to fit to complete this task. As can be seen on the second photo the gap to fill, at the midship section, requires exactly 4 planks.
Time Taken	60 mins

 

Edited December 18, 2024 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 9 – Pianting The Hull

 

Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 1
Build Steps	44-46	Painting the hull white takes time to get a nice even finish. After brushing diluted wood filler in the visible gaps / depressions in the completed second planking the hull is sanded until it feels smooth to touch. A thin coat of white paint was then applied to the hull as this really shows up the defects as can be seen in the following four photos.
Time Taken	30 mins

Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 2
Build Steps	44-46	A liberal amount of slightly diluted wood filler to the hull, as can be seen in the next two photos.
Time Taken	10 mins

Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 3
Build Steps	44-46	Once the wood filler has dried the hull is once again sanded smooth. As can be seen in the next three photos the hull is looking smoother, but more work is still required.
Time Taken	20 mins

 

Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 4
Build Steps	44-46	More diluted wood filler is then applied to the areas which need more attention and then the hull is once again sanded smooth and this process is repeated until I was happy the end result, as shown in the next three photos.
Time Taken	60 mins

Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 5
Build Steps	44-46	The rudder was also assembled and painted and then test fitted, as shown in the next photo. It will be added to the hull later in the build process.
Time Taken	10 mins

 

Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 6
Build Steps	44-46	The outer bulwark patterns were then test fitted against the painted hull and everything look good.
Time Taken	5 mins

 

Edited December 26, 2024 by Glenn-UK

[Knocklouder]

Great looking paint job,   

Bob  M.

[Glenn-UK]

4 minutes ago, Knocklouder said:

Great looking paint job,   

Bob  M.

Thanks Bob

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 10 – Outer Bulwark Patterns

 

Hull Construction – Fitting The Outer Bulwark Patterns
Build Steps	47 - 48	After test fitting the previously shaped patterns the two outer bulwark patterns were added to the hull assembly. I brushed plenty of wood glue to the hull and the two patterns were then carefully positioned and clamped the hull, as can be seen in the following two photos.
Time Taken	10 mins

 Stage 11 – Shaping the Main Wales

 

Hull Construction – Shaping The Wales
Build Steps	51	After wetting the bow end of the two wale patterns they were clamped to the hull and a hair dryer was used help the wale retain the bend around the bow. This is shown in the next two photos. The wale patterns will be removed and painted black before they are glued in place.   I have also sanded the excess material shown by blue arrow in second photo from the stern area.
Time Taken	10 mins

Stage 12 – Fitting Lower Stern Counter Pattern

 

Hull Construction – Outer Lower Stern Counter Pattern
Build Steps	49	After wetting the outer lower stern counter pattern it was clamped to the hull so it could follow the curve. Before gluing the pattern in place, I did a test fit of the transom rail pattern. Everything looks good so the lower stern counter pattern was glued in place.
Time Taken	20 mins

Stage 13 – Horseshoe Show and Fishplates

 

Hull Construction – Hull PE Parts
Build Steps	52	A coating of photo etch primer paint was sprayed on the PE parts for the horseshoe, fishplates and depth markings. They were then painted copper. As can be seen in the the next two photo the two horseshoe patterns have been test fitted and the two fishplate patterns have been glued in place.
Time Taken	10 mins

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 14 – Wales and Depth Markings

 

Hull Construction – Hull PE Parts
Build Steps	51-52	After bending the two wale patterns for a good fit around the bow area they were painted black. I did apply a WOP coat before painting the wales. The wales were they glued and clamped in place. Next I added the horseshoe and depth markings to the hull. Cut down pins were inserted in all of the horseshoe holes.   I have now completed the basic hull assembly phase of this build.
Time Taken	120 mins

 

As can be seen in the photo below I need to tidy up the lower stern panel paint job.

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 15 – Laser Engraved Deck Installation

 

Hull Construction – Laser Deck Installation
Build Steps	53-55	The excess bulkhead tab material was removed, and the remnants were then sanded smooth. The laser engraved deck was then test fitted, after the laser char had been removed, from the outer edges. The deck was a good fit and I also checked the various deck items would locate in the various apertures.   Plenty of wood glue was then brushed on to the deck base and the laser engraved deck was fitted. Plenty of clamps were then used to keep the deck in contact with the base while the glue cured.
Time Taken	20 mins

Stage 16 – Fitting Inner Bulwark Patterns

 

Hull Construction – Inner Bulwark Patterns Installation
Build Steps	56-61	There are two inner bulwarks per side and the front patterns were soaked in warm water for a few minutes and then clamped to the hull. Once the patterns had fully dried out they were test fitted and did require a bit of sanding on the leading edges before I was happy with the alignment.   Plenty of wood glue was then brushed on and the inner bulwark patterns were carefully aligned and clamped. As can be seen in the attached photos I did dry fit some eyebolts to ensure the patterns were correctly aligned.
Time Taken	30 mins

 

Stage 17 – Fitting Spirketting Patterns

 

Hull Construction – Spirketting Patterns
Build Steps	62-63	There are two spirketting patterns per side. These patterns were test fitted, and they did require a bit of sanding on the leading edges before I was happy with the alignment.   Plenty of wood glue was then brushed on the patterns and they were carefully aligned and clamped. As can be seen in the attached photos I did dry fit some eyebolts to ensure these patterns were correctly aligned.   Next I sanded the top edges of the bulwarks flat and added a curved section on the left side of the front bulwarks for the bowsprit seat.
Time Taken	30 mins

 

Current Build Status Photos

I have added some photos showing the current status of the build, noting I have dry fitted some of the deck items.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 18 – Completion of Hull Construction Phase

 

Hull Construction – Final Tasks
Build Steps	64-73	A lot of work has been completed and the hull build phase is now complete and I am ready to move on to adding the deck fittings. The completed tasks are:   a)      Cutting the gun port openings. After sanding the cut edges, I decided to add some gun port linings using some spare material. I painted the lining red. b)      The bow keel was glued in place and painted black. c)      The gunwale were painted black and then glued in place. d)      The swivel gun posts and timberheads were glued in place on top og the gunwales. e)      The stern side timers and top piece were added to the stern. f)       The stern transom rail and stern counter rails were painted black and then added. g)      The upper support rails were painted red and then glued in place. h)      The cleats were added to the inner bulwarks. i)         I test fitted eyebolts in all the holes on the inner bulwarks and deck. The eyebolts still need to be chemically blackened before they are glued in place.
Time Taken	180 mins

 

Current Build Status Photos

I have added some photos showing the current status of the build.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Stage 19 – Deck Work

 

Hull Construction – Final Tasks
Build Steps		My original plan was to install all the gun port eyebolts once they had been chemically blackened. As I was going to blacken the eyebolts, I decided I might as well go ahead and blacken all the various PE parts required for the deck fitted items. The process I use to blacken the PE parts works well as is as follows:   a) Soak the parts in acetone for a few minutes then place on paper towel to dry off b) Soak the parts in hot soapy water for a few minutes c) Rinse the parts in clean hot water and then place on paper towel to dry off d) Place the parts in a blackening solution. I use Metal Burnishing Fluid AK Interactive AK-159 e) Remove the blackened parts from the solution and dry on a paper towel.
Time Taken	30 mins

Hull Construction – Final Tasks
Build Steps	74 - 87	The following deck items were then assembled: a)      Companionway, a bit of cleaning up required and I might paint the assembly b)      Catheads c)      Tiller Arm d)      Hand Pumps, a bit of cleaning up required.   The two belay pin racks were installed.   My next tasks will be to:  a) Assembly the 8 off cannons b) Fit all the gun port and deck eyebolts c) Assembly and install the two ladders d) Add the steps and PE stanchions to the hull e) Assembly the winch. f) Fit all the deck parts g) Add channels to hull   Once all that has been done the deck work will be completed. I am in two minds weather to then progress with the mast and yard manufacture and rigging or to put the build on hold as I really want to start work on the Harpy.
Time Taken	60 mins

 

[palmerit]

When you get to making the cannons, make sure you test the fit before gluing the “wedge” in place. That piece sets the angle of the cannon. It wasn’t clear to me where to place it so I placed it so that the cannon would be horizontal. It turned out the cannon needed to be pitched up a tiny bit so that the barrels would point out the ports and all four wheels would sit on the deck. A few of my cannons have the two front wheels elevated off the deck by a fraction of a mm. No one would see it but me, but it also means those cannon are only glued in place in two spots rather than four. 

[palmerit]

1 hour ago, Glenn-UK said:

Once all that has been done the deck work will be completed. I am in two minds weather to then progress with the mast and yard manufacture and rigging or to put the build on hold as I really want to start work on the Harpy.

I’ve liked having multiple builds going - though now having four (including the Lego Endurance) might be a bit much. There is a bunch of time waiting for wet wood, glue, or paint to dry. And with both my Sherbourne and my Pram I’m now waiting for some parts to arrive (with my Sherbourne I didn’t plan the cutting of some yards properly and had to order a new walnut dowel, with my Pram I broke one piece and the kit didn’t supply enough of some other pieces). Also, there have been some times when I knew I needed to think about a step or read some other build logs and it was nice to have another model to turn to when I just wanted to do some physical, not mental, model work. I know others might disagree. It’s also nice have one more “complicated” model going (not that the Sherbourne is complicated, but it does have more steps and pieces) and a simpler model going (like the Dory, Pram, or Smack). 

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, palmerit said:

When you get to making the cannons, make sure you test the fit before gluing the “wedge” in place. That piece sets the angle of the cannon. It wasn’t clear to me where to place it so I placed it so that the cannon would be horizontal. It turned out the cannon needed to be pitched up a tiny bit so that the barrels would point out the ports and all four wheels would sit on the deck. A few of my cannons have the two front wheels elevated off the deck by a fraction of a mm. No one would see it but me, but it also means those cannon are only glued in place in two spots rather than four. 

Thanks, I have built plenty of these cannons in the past and I always test fit them during the assembly phase. The best advice is to assembly and then carefully slide the wedge with the cannon in situ to get the desired cannon angle. Wood glue will keep the wedge in place once aligned. I have bought some items which could, when fitted, replicate the wedge handle.

[palmerit]

51 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

I have built plenty of these cannons in the past

Sure thing. I thought since you were doing the Sherbourne you might be a relative novice like me (you might have said you weren’t elsewhere in your build log).