Endeavour 1934 by SaltyScot - Amati - 1:80

[SaltyScot]

2 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

I like the neat simplicity of that base.

 

John

 

John, 

 

I didn't want anything that drew attention from the model and was aiming for functional but simplistic. Thanks for picking up on that sir.

[Veszett Roka]

I would cut the base plate a bit shorter and oval form to match the desk shape. But anyways, the current stand is perfect - You're the builder Mark, and your pride and joy the most important factor.

[SaltyScot]

5 hours ago, Veszett Roka said:

I would cut the base plate a bit shorter and oval form to match the desk shape. But anyways, the current stand is perfect - You're the builder Mark, and your pride and joy the most important factor.

 

Thank you for that, and thank you for dropping by, it is much appreciated.

[SaltyScot]

Hi folks,

 

A quick look in to post an update. This week has been busy outside the shipyard as we are renovating the kitchen. The CEO and I do a lot of that kind of thing ourselves and pace ourselves accordingly, the days of finishing a kitchen and bathroom remodel over a weekend are long gone    I did manage to get in the shipyard briefly this afternoon and get a few more small items off my list. Among them was drilling out the 4mm blocks so that the thread that came with the kit would fit. I was dry testing the block rigging and noticed it was impossible to feed the thread through the tiny holes provided. If I had skipped that, the rigging process might have been a little frustrating 😮 

 

 

[king derelict]

This is a lovely build to follow.

Alan

[SaltyScot]

1 hour ago, king derelict said:

This is a lovely build to follow.

Alan

 

And I am honored that you dropped by, Alan.

[Keith Black]

 Scott, you need to get yourself some needle threaders. Some folks swear by wetting the end of the thread with CA and once dry pushing the thread through the blocks. I never had success trying to push line through blocks that way.

 

 The only thing that works for me are needle threaders. I'm posting a Amazon link but you can get them at Joann Fabrics and Crafts stores and they're available at other craft stores.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Threader-Threaders-Universal-Embroidery-Needlework/dp/B09YNS98B6/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2PDX7B5FCSMJV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6zES97mdJ4gE0IH6d7XoQRqc5yMo-UUVykqut7FPMOjrT2muN_Rog4N-xSmv1ZUarFgNpoToH5JZZ4HXzAgLTc150kYUtySqNNatO9HoERL87vcQPwoCb32a1gzXHdulQY1ntNOnBZ-GbeDUySYoi-3-_gkbzHCj0TZBX5u60m4cWsKdH8dl5oQzg6DFhGnFSHa8RfZnVAQu6fUP9nlRaYcBNc5uFlTktq8GZEVJi2WRIwpF9tRLL9EkIvcRrw4Zv3a3IMCh8BdTAHHlZ6TalL5yBR3E6FdsOjjp_oeQ-MA.ZzVXIhJa6n40G4w2s8MEVxvrO1s_L181MNLA9TXg8rg&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&qid=1739677147&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=nee%2Carts-crafts%2C100&sr=1-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Edited February 16 by Keith Black

[wmherbert]

I've never tried needle threader since it seemed the hole had to be big enough to get two diameters of line through. I've always just drilled out hole so one line could get pushed through. I use a little CA on the thread , wait a few moments and then snip the end at an angle. I use the CA on about the last 1/4 inch.

  But maybe it's not the best way and I should try the needle threader

Bill

[Keith Black]

1 minute ago, wmherbert said:

But maybe it's not the best way and I should try the needle threader

Bill

 Bill, for me it's easier and quicker plus needle threaders are cheap.  The link I provided is for one type but there are other types.

[Dr PR]

I have tried several needle threaders and there is no way you can get the wire loop plus two parts of the ropes through the holes in the smaller blocks. Rope sizes and block sizes are related, and block holes are usually drilled out enough to allow only one strand of rope/thread to pass loosely.

 

I put some Duco Cement (nitrocellulose in acetone) on the tip of the rope as soon as it is cut to prevent it from unravelling. This also stiffens the end of the rope, and it is usually good for threading through blocks. Sometimes on the smallest blocks and ropes I clip the glued end of the rope at an angle to create a "point" and this always goes through the hole in the block. If the rope end is frayed after passing through several holes I trim it back again.

 

I hold the glued end of the rope with tweezers about 1 1/2 block diameters from the end and thread the stiffened end through the block. Then I hold the block with my fingers and pull the rope on through with the tweezers, or in some cases I use a second tweezers to pull the end protruding through the block.

 

However, I always drill out then holes in blocks with a drill bit a size or two larger than the rope/thread. After manufacturing it is common for dust and tiny wood chips to remain in the holes. It is just good practice to clean the holes before using.

[Keith Black]

3 hours ago, Dr PR said:

I have tried several needle threaders and there is no way you can get the wire loop plus two parts of the ropes through the holes in the smaller blocks

 You most certainly can providing your line/thread is scaled correctly. I have used needle threaders successfully on 2 and 3 mm deadeyes and blocks with the original hole diameter as is, not enlarged. A caveat, I use Gutermann polyester thread and not cotton thread. Maybe cotton reacts differently and doesn't compress as much as poly line does? I use poly instead of cotton as cotton deteriorates too quickly. 

Edited February 16 by Keith Black

[SaltyScot]

9 hours ago, Keith Black said:

The link I provided is for one type but there are other types.

 

My good lady has a well equipped sewing kit and, after a quick rummage through, I found a pack of these in there! Excellent tip, Keith. Thank you! I will make sure a pack of these has a permanent home in the shipyard now (for the larger blocks anyway). 

Edited February 16 by SaltyScot
Edited :)

[SaltyScot]

7 hours ago, Dr PR said:

However, I always drill out then holes in blocks with a drill bit a size or two larger than the rope/thread. After manufacturing it is common for dust and tiny wood chips to remain in the holes. It is just good practice to clean the holes before using.

 

I have found this to be good practice too, being a little proactive negates the need for hair pulling and cuss words further down the line  

[SaltyScot]

3 hours ago, Keith Black said:

I use poly instead of cotton as cotton deteriorates too quickly. 

 

I had never heard of this. The matter of the thread deteriorating over time is certainly something to be taken into consideration. Hmmmmmmmm 🤔

[Keith Black]

 Scott, this is one of several discussions on poly line, searching the subject will provide others.

 

 

[SaltyScot]

4 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Scott, this is one of several discussions on poly line, searching the subject will provide others.

 

That will be a great help and a good place to start. I appreciate you sharing that with me, Keith.

[SaltyScot]

Good day, folks,

 

Coming to you all from a VERY windy Chesapeake Bay. I decided to get some more of the blocks done today. I wanted to finish up with the ones required on the deck, the pigtail ones for sail rigging would be done later. I stropped enough to begin my venture:

 

 

... and started attaching them in their relevant locations:

 

 

With that the deck is as good as done. I decided in the end to go with the kit supplied winches after all. There is a story behind why I made that decision and, to keep it short, it involved a little frustration at the winches I made not looking 100% identical. BUT, the CEO and I have decided that once I clear the kits that are currently in the shipyard, I will be getting this kit again but in a much larger scale (1:35 if I am remembering that correctly). We have just the right spot for such a large display in our dining room. The kit in that scale will have a lot more detail and she will get put in a nice case.

 

Here are some random images of what the deck looks like right now. The mast and boom are sitting on the workbench just waiting for me to drop them in. That comes next.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh, one more thing, the more astute of you will perhaps notice that the pump is missing in front of the main cabin in the last image here. The kit provided one was made of drop cast aluminum and, on drilling the hole for the pump handle, the top snapped off. I am in the process of making a new one - I only have to make one so I should be OK  

 

 

Edited Sunday at 10:59 PM by SaltyScot
Removed duplicate image

[Jim Lad]

Looking good, Mark.

 

John

[Keith Black]

 Mark, I apologize for continuing to call you Scott. The deck looks great including the winches. 

[SaltyScot]

46 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

Mark, I apologize for continuing to call you Scott. The deck looks great including the winches. 

 

No problem at all, Keith, I was not at all offended sir. I had to smile when I read what you said about the winches, and I appreciate the comment  

[SaltyScot]

3 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

Looking good, Mark.

 

John

 

Thank you, John, that means a lot sir.

[SaltyScot]

Morning everyone,

 

I just wanted to post an update regarding the rigging. As I have read in other Endeavour build logs, the flat bottomed cleats that come with the kit tend to "fly off" when used to secure rigging thread. This has happened to me too, despite CA etc. I have redesigned the cleats in the CAD software to incorporate a small piece of the 1 mm brass rod that was left over, it will protrude from the base. I will drill small holes in the boat and glue the cleats with rods in that way. Images to follow once the 3D printer gets here and I can print them (hopefully today if the forecasted snow doesn't stop everything).

Edited Wednesday at 01:10 PM by SaltyScot
Spell check

[SaltyScot]

So here is the redesigned cleat with the 1mm hole in the bottom for the support rod. The printer and filaments arrived late this afternoon and I still have to set everything up. I will go ahead and print a couple of test cleats tomorrow and see how they look.

 

 

 

[SaltyScot]

I just rounded the ends of the cleat off, I thought it might look better (despite it being TINY on the boat)  

 

[SaltyScot]

Production has stopped ............... I assembled the printer and loaded it up with the very nice looking walnut wood filament this morning. As I started printing the printer made a very loud (and annoying) whining noise. Having worked with these before I knew immediately what it was. The bearings in the thermo couple cooling fan were shot, and this is a new printer!! Well, I guess that's what I get for ordering a product that was built by our Asian trade partners. Amazon was incredibly helpful with the swap, they will be sending me a new one on Monday so I have to wait until then to print the cleats  No worries, I have 4 other models under the table ............  

[SaltyScot]

Well, the real world caught up with me again. I heard that my 3D printer is delayed with no actual delivery date (as of this morning). I decided to not have the Endeavour sitting on my table waiting for cleats and moved forward with the rigging using the existing cleats. If one does pop off again, I will drill it and add the rod then and there to secure it. So far they have all behaved as they should  

 

The shroud ropes were fitted first:

 

 

Next up, as recommended in the plans, I fixed all the front stays for the mast to stabilize it before fitting the boom:

 

 

The boom was then mounted:

 

 

At the moment I am running the rigging ropes that tie off to the cleats. The stropped blocks look a bit messy in my opinion, I will be tidying the unions between ropes and blocks up on this rigging today:

 

 

 

 

The loose ropes hanging over the sides here will be coiled up on deck once I am done. Onwards!

 

[king derelict]

The rigging looks excellent and shows the beauty of the boat 

alan

[Keith Black]

Nice!