HMS Harpy 1796 by Glenn-UK – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

SaltyScot · January 21

I can only agree with Bob there Glenn. Very nice indeed sir.

Glenn-UK · January 21

Many thanks Mark, much appreciated

Glenn-UK · January 22

Today has been a very productive day in the shipyard. The hinges, ordered from Syren in the USA, arrived today so I was able to add them to the inner panels. The door handles and hinges from Syren do add an extra dimension to the model.

The inner panels were then secured to the hull, quickly followed by the deck beams and carlings, as can be seen in the photo below.

I much prefer using @Chuck hinges and handles compared to photo etched equivalents. They look great, they do not require blackening and they are very easy to fit. The next photo shows one of the inner door panels complete with hinges and handles. I did follow @Blue Ensign build and removed the right-angle part from the upper hinges.

The following selection of photos shows some different aspect of the deck beams, carlings, deck fittings and panels. You will note that I test fitted the various dowels to ensure there is no alignment issues.

The next task was to slot the upper deck base pattern into place. On my first fitting there seemed to be a very slight issue with fitting bow area. With the deck fully engaged in the bulkhead notches the bow area was not sitting flat across the bow deck beams. After removing the laser char from the edges of the upper deck pattern bulkhead slots it was a perfect fit, as can be seen the final set of photos.

Glenn-UK · January 23

My main objective today was to fair the hull. This was a fairly painless exercise and did not take too long to complete approx. 90 minutes in total.

I started by using my Amati sanding block (loaded with 120-grit sandpaper) on the bulkhead ears. Once I was happy with how they were looking I moved to fairing the mid ship ship sections, using a mixture of my Amati sanding block and Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit).

Next I moved on to fairing the stern area. For this I used my Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit), my thin standing sticks and 120 grit sandpaper. This took a bit more time and effort and once completed I was happy that there was full contact with a test plank.

It was then time to fair the bow area. Once again I used my Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit), my thin standing sticks and 120 grit sandpaper. Once completed I was happy that there was full contact with a test plank.

I did smooth the sanded hull using a 400 grit sanding stick.

Next I did a quick test fit the prow, keel and stern post and was very happy with how they looked. If I get time later today I will glue them in place as it is now time for my daily afternoon run.

Edited January 23 by Glenn-UK

Glenn-UK · January 26

Not spent much time in the shipyard over the last few of days. The rear stern counter patterns have been glued in place and the excess material sanded smooth to the hull sides.

The bow sections of the two outer bulwark patterns, after being soaked in hot water for a few minutes, were clamped to a plastic measuring jug and left to fully dry out out. I was was happy with how the patterns fitted around the bow, as can be seen in the next photo.

When checking the position of the bulwarks there is a laser engraved line, the lower line needs to be aligned with deck base. In the photo below the test fitting of the pattern is a tad high.

The patterns have now been glued in place. I will take some photo's once the glue has had sufficient time (overnight) to cure. I only applied glue to the area below the laser engraved deck lines on the bulwark patterns.

Edited January 26 by Glenn-UK

Glenn-UK · January 27

I decided to make some simple planking clamps. These were made using some 1 x 5mm planking material I have left over from previous model builds.

In the next picture I am using one of my clamps to secure the bulwark pattern to the bulkheads.

The following photo shows the hull complete with the bulwark patterns glued in place.

In the next three photos the bulwark pattern laser etched guide line is nicely aligned with the deck pattern.

And now some more photos of the bulwark patterns.

It was now time to start adding the first planking. I start by positioning the plank and marking its position on the central bulkhead, as shown below. This is because, when gluing the plank, I like to work from the central bulkhead and to pin alternate sides as I work toward the bow and stern.

Using three of my clamps the plank is held in position so I can determine where the plank starts to flow above the bulwark pattern. The plank is marked so it can be tapered.

A lateral bend is then added to the plank.

The plank was then glued and pinned in place.

There will a total of 18 planks per side required at the midships.

Edited January 27 by Glenn-UK

ECK · January 27

Nice. I noticed the same issue I run into where the first plank runs around the ow but leaves a gap between the plank and the bulwark.

Glenn-UK · January 28

Not a great start to the day. When I went into the shipyard to add the first plank to the other side I noticed a problem with the alignment right-hand bulwark (left side when looking at the photo below) pattern.

Although the pattern laser etched guide lines are perfectly aligned to the deck for the most part, it can be seen the bow section must have slipped during the clamping process, which I had not noticed. I think, after clamping the bow section, I was so focused on aligning the pattern using the laser etched guide lines, I did not recheck the bow section after all the clamps and pins had been added.

When looking at the next photo it can be seen that the problem starts somewhere between the last two bulkheads.

My initial reaction was leave it has fitted and trust that it would not be that noticeable as the build progresses. Then the newer version of my said

"Stop! this is shoddy workmanship and is simply not acceptable".

With a little bit of fear and trepidation I brushed plenty of warm water to the wood glue area. After a few minutes I started to ease the pattern away from the bow and two leading bulkheads. Thankfully I was able to do this without causing any significant damage.

It was then a case of repositioning the pattern around the bow section. It took a few attempts before I was happy with the alignment. With clamps holding the pattern in place I left the shipyard.

A couple of hours later I returned to the shipyard to remove the clamps and thankfully the bow pattern looks so much better, as can be seen by looking at the out of focus picture below. It is not 100% perfect but I have deemed it acceptable.

The pattern laser etched lines are now aligned with the deck.

Blue Ensign · January 28

"Stop! this is shoddy workmanship and is simply not acceptable".

Good decision Glenn 👍

B.E.

ECK · January 28

Glad you caught it. Same thing almost happened to me. Seems when you align the stern it twists the bow upwards.

Glenn-UK · January 28

6 minutes ago, ECK said:

Glad you caught it. Same thing almost happened to me. Seems when you align the stern it twists the bow

I did chamfer the two stem post fillers which maybe added to the issue. When lined up with the bulkhead guide lines the front bulwark starboard pattern tab sat flush with the stem post slot rather than being pushed in and held in place which did not help.

SaltyScot · February 1

It is always a good feeling when you correct something that is not 100% right. If you didn't it would gnaw away at you and leave a sense of not having done the job to the best of your ability. Good call, Glenn.

Glenn-UK · February 1

Progress is slow and steady with the first planking. I did take a couple of days off from the shipyard as I had 1000 piece jigsaw to do, as it was an XMAS present from my youngest son.

In the first set of photos below I have added 4 strakes per side. I am also marking the position of the bulkheads on the strakes after the pins are removed.

The next set of photos is a tutorial on how not to plank🤣. It works well for me however.

I start the process by shaping the strake's bow edge.

Next I mark the required taper for the bow section.

After the taper has been cut the strake is test fitted and the central point for the lateral taper is marked.

With the strake in the required position I add an alignment mark on the central bulkhead. When gluing the strake in place I like to work outwards from the centre.

Next I look at how the strake looks at the stern and mark where I will add an anti-clockwise (for the left had side) twist to get a better fit.

After holding the strake in some warm water for a minute or two it is clamped to the bench so the lateral bend can be set. I use a hairdryer on a hot air setting for a couple of minutes to dry the strake. The strake is then test fitted, and if necessary the bend is adjusted.

With the stern section of the strake dampened the anti-clockwise twist is added. I do this by applying the twist manually with my hands.

Wood glue is added to the various bulkheads and I also add some addition glue to the bow end of the strake. The plank is then positioned, using the central mark. Pins are then added moving outwards, equally from the central point. Any excess glue is wiped away as each pin is added.

With the strake pinned in place a final check is made to check the contact with the bulkheads and to remove any remaining excess glue from the bulkheads beneath the strake.

SaltyScot · February 1

6 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

The next set of photos is a tutorial on how not to plank🤣. It works well for me however.

As long as it works for you, Glenn, and you are happy with it, that is all that matters. It looks like a simple but quite effective system if you ask me sir.

Edited February 1 by SaltyScot

Glenn-UK · February 4

The first planking of the Harpy continues but the end is near. I hope to have to completed later in the week, all being well.

After adding the first 8 strakes to both sides I turned my attention to adding the garboard planks (to both sides).

In the two photos below you will note that I have cut the stern end of these strakes a tad short of the stern post which is intentional as this will aid the sanding process to ensure the second planking (when added) sits flush with the stern post.

I have found it necessary to add one dropper strake (bow) and three stealers strakes (stern). I have attached a couple of photos of these strakes.

Dropper Strake

Stealer Strake

I have completed the first planking on the left-hand side, as can be seen below

I am very pleased with how the stern area is looking, and if you look closely the three stealers can be seen.

The bow area looks Ok, you may notice in the following photo I have brushed in some diluted wood filler in the gaps. As I worked on the bow area I got a better understanding of the nature of the lateral bend and why it is necessary, I also (eventually) realised when adding the last few stakes that, in most cases I needed to add a bigger lateral bend to get a better neater fit.

The starboard side first planking is almost complete and should be completed in the next couple of days.

SaltyScot · February 5

Moving along nicely, Glenn.

Glenn-UK · February 5

5 hours ago, SaltyScot said:

Moving along nicely, Glenn.

Thanks Mark

Glenn-UK · February 5

The first planking task is now complete. For the most part I am really pleased with how the hull looks. There are a few strakes I could have done better but overall my planking is improving with each build.

Using a mixture of my mouse sander, sanding sticks and sand paper the hull has now been sanded smooth. I have used both the sight and feel test and all looks good and feels smooth. I will still need to do some more checks with regard to how the second planking will look after the outer patterns have been test fitted to the stem post, keel and stem post as the second planking is to sit flush with the outer edges of the keel and stern post patterns. I also need to check the second planks will fit in the rabbet that is created when these outer patterns have been added.

Once I am happy with everything I will apply a coating of sanding sealer to the hull.

Knocklouder · February 5

Very nice Glen., as always !!

Bob M . :cheers:

Glenn-UK · February 5

5 hours ago, Knocklouder said:

Very nice Glen., as always !!

Bob M .

Thanks Bob

SaltyScot · February 6

Your sanding has really smoothed out the planking there, Glenn. It looks really good.

Glenn-UK · February 6

4 hours ago, SaltyScot said:

Your sanding has really smoothed out the planking there, Glenn. It looks really good.

Thanks Mark

Glenn-UK · February 6

The Square Tuck

When looking at @Blue Ensign excellent and very information build log for the Harpy I really liked his square tuck enhancement. I decided it was worth investigating weather I could follow his lead in this respect.

Using the two stern counter patterns as a template I draw the required shape on some excess pear wood.

I did made the lower square cut patterns using some 1 mm pear wood scraps but as the infill would be 0.8mm thick planking material I made another pair from 0,8mm pear wood scraps.

I did not have the luxury of a jigsaw to cut these parts but I was able to cut the parts out using a sharp bladed craft knife. In the next photo you can see I am checking the contour of the pattern matches the stern counter pattern.

With the two stern counter patterns glued in place the lower square cut patterns are checked and look OK. A little bit more work may be required once the second planking has been completed.

I forgot about the stern post outer patterns, so the square tuck patterns were checked again after the outer patterns were test fitted.

Once that was done I made the two top sections required for the square cut. I think they pass the initial inspection so I will put these parts to one side for the time being and proceed on with the build, I will add a planked infill, as per @Blue Ensign build method. It has been an interesting little side project and one I am pleased to have tried.

Edited February 6 by Glenn-UK

Glenn-UK · February 8

The next task in the build process is to add the outer bulwark decorative patterns. To assist with the aligning of these patterns the kit is provided with a set of gun port jigs. Each gun port jig has a laser engraved position identifier.

When test fitting these jigs I did notice the ones marked as 2L through to 10L are shaped for the right hand gun port openings side and the ones marked as 2R through to 10R are required for the left hand side gun port openings.

The outer patterns, after being soaked in warm water, were clamped to the hull and left to dry out overnight. I used plenty of clamps for the bow area.

Once the patterns had fully dried out the the right-hand pattern was carefully aligned. I did shave approx. 0.5mm from the bow end of the pattern before I was happy with how the pattern lined up, with the hawse holes and with all the gun port jigs fitted. It was necessary to trim some of the bulkhead ears to allow the gun port jigs to be full inserted.

With previous builds I would have been happy to proceed to gluing this pattern in place. However as I noted that the bottom edge of this pattern was not sitting flush with the hull I felt I should try to address this issue. Please see the next photo where shows the problem.

The uses of clamps did not solve the problem therefore I decided to resoak the planks in the problem area and to then add some additional clamps and pins positioned below the pattern to try to close the gap. I fashioned some suitable clamps using some spare planking material.

As can be seen in the next photo the pattern has been wetted and a combination of clamps & pins have been used. Hopefully, once the pattern has dried out, the pattern will be a better fit along the bottom edge of the hull.

When checking the position of the left hand pattern I noted that I will need to trim approx. 2mm from the bow end to ensure the pattern aligns with the hawse holes and gun port openings. This can be seen with the final two photos of this post.

Edited February 8 by Glenn-UK

Richard44 · February 8

7 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

When test fitting these jigs I did notice the ones marked as 2L through to 10L are shaped for the right hand gun port openings side and the ones marked as 2R through to 10R are required for the left hand side gun port openings.

Yes, I found that too.

Glenn-UK · February 10

The outer bulwark patterns have now been added to the hull. I used a variety of clamps to hold the patterns in place as the glue was curing. I did find it necessary to use my hand made clamps to ensure the bottom edge of the patterns were in contact with the hull. Once the patterns had been clamped in place all the gun port jigs were removed to ensure they were not accidently glued in place.

When the clamps were removed I was reasonably happy with how they looked.

When reading some of the other build logs there were some different approaches made to the second planking with regards to how the planks will align with the wale patterns. I have marked the line where lower edge of the wale will sit of the hull as shown in the photo below. My plan is to add a plank aligned with the marked bottom edge line and then to infill the area between that plank and the bulwarks.

Before starting the second planking I applied a coat of sanding sealer to the hull. The position of the bullheads are marked in case I decide to use them should I wish to add some pins when planking below the water line. I will add a line for the waterline before I start to add the second planking.

I plan to follow @Blue Ensign lead and use individual plank lengths of approx 140mm, with a minimum length of 60mm for the planking between the wale and waterline.

SaltyScot · February 11

11 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

Before starting the second planking I applied a coat of sanding sealer to the hull.

Nice lines, Glenn, she looks very neat. If I may ask, what sanding sealer did you use sir?

Glenn-UK · February 11

4 hours ago, SaltyScot said:

Nice lines, Glenn, she looks very neat. If I may ask, what sanding sealer did you use sir?

I use Guild Materials Sanding Sealer, GLDCEX1100125

SaltyScot · February 11

7 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

I use Guild Materials Sanding Sealer, GLDCEX1100125

Thanks buddy.

Glenn-UK · February 12

There is quite a lot colour variation with the kit supplied second planking material. Also there are a few planks that have manufacturing defects, such as ripped edges and tapering. I have sorted through and will use the best planks for the area beneath the wales and above the water line.

The quality and colour variation of the kit supplied second planking material is not a issue when the hull is either painted or coppered. The Harpy will be coppered below the water line.

If going for a natural wood, varnished finish to show of the planking then it is probably better to replace the second planking material with high quality milled timber from a supplier such as Hobbymill EU. My planking is not up to that standard as yet.

I ended up following the same method as @Blue Ensign with regards adding the two strakes that sit beneath the wales and then trimming the excess material so the next strake will follow the same line as the bottom edge of the wale.

Once that was done I took some measurements and created a schedule for the planking between the bottom edge of the wale and the garboard. I am not going to taper the stern planks and will simply add stealers as and when necessary.

In the next photo I have added the first four strakes that sit beneath the wale. The blue arrow indicates where the strakes added that sit beneath the wale. I have use the planks that were the worst with regards to colour matching for this area.

When adding the second planking I am fitting planks of approx 140mmL and making joints on the bulkhead lines. In the next photo you will see where the various joints have been made.

The next photo shows how the stern looks, noting the blue arrow shows the planks that will be hidden by the wale.

The following set of photos shows the process I am using to add planks in a bit more detail. Once the plank has been tapered as per my planking schedule it is wetted and then clamped to my workbench so a lateral bend can be applied. I use a hairdryer to apply heat to the dampened plank for approx. 1 minute.