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Posted

Very meticulous, Glenn and the results speak for themselves sir.

Mark

 

On the table:  Endeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

Next up: Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70


Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted
3 minutes ago, SaltyScot said:

Very meticulous, Glenn and the results speak for themselves sir.

Many thanks Mark, much appreciated.

Glenn (UK)

Posted

Work is progressing slow and steady on adding the second planking. I have now completed the planking on the right-hand side down to where the water line terminates at bow and stern. I have also added the garboard along the keel, comprising 2 x 4mm planks.

 

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I have continued to use shorter plank lengths (max approx 140mm). In the photo below the red arrows shows the position of the different plank joints, noting the pattern does repeat with every third strake. When fitting a plank I do mark the position of the next plank, as indicated by the blue arrow.

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The bow planking is looking reasonably Ok at the moment. I am colour matching the planks as I go along. The lateral bend is really helping and there is no real evidence of clinkering which is a first for me.

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In the photo below the CA glue stain will be hidden by the wale, when fitted. The blue arrow indicates where the plank width is tapered to 3mm and will taper to 2mm at the stem post.

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The final two photos shows the stern area. Once the plank ends have been sanded flush with the stern counter I am planning to add a square tuck finish.

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There is still a few days work left to complete the right-hand side before moving on repeat for the left-hand side.

Glenn (UK)

Posted

I have now completed the right-hand side second planking. There is a wet nature in the photos below as I did brush the hull with a dampened brush. This was done to remove any unwanted dust from the hull and to also highlight any areas which may require a little bit of attention.

 

Overall I am very satisfied with how this has turned out, it is not perfect but generally it looks good to the naked eye. I will now spend a few more days repeating the process for the left-hand side. Fingers crossed I can repeat what I have done already.

 

The wale (when fitted) will positioned between the lower laser etched line on the bulwark pattern and the third strake.

 

I am planning to add a square tuck to the stern.

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Glenn (UK)

Posted

I think you have done a fine job there, Glenn. Forgive my ignorance (I am a newbie to model ship building and have scant knowledge of the vernacular), but isn't a square tuck usually placed to strengthen the stern to support cannons and the like at the aft end of the ship?

Mark

 

On the table:  Endeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

Next up: Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70


Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted
25 minutes ago, SaltyScot said:

I think you have done a fine job there, Glenn. Forgive my ignorance (I am a newbie to model ship building and have scant knowledge of the vernacular), but isn't a square tuck usually placed to strengthen the stern to support cannons and the like at the aft end of the ship?

The square tuck arrangement is for framing so there are no open ends where the planking terminates at the stern.

Glenn (UK)

Posted
11 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

The square tuck arrangement is for framing so there are no open ends where the planking terminates at the stern.

 

Aha, got it. Thank you, sir.

Mark

 

On the table:  Endeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

Next up: Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70


Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted (edited)

Planking on the left hand side has started and so far it is looking good. The first 6 strakes that sit beneath the wale have been added. I have added some marks to aid with the the plank tapering around the bow. In the first photo the blue arrow is where the planks are tapered to 3mmW and the red arrow indicate where the planks are tapered to 3.5mmW. The end of the plank which fits in the stem post is tapered to 2mmW. The final photo shows the planking terminating at the stern.

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The following set of photos, shows, in detail, the complete process I follow to fit a strake.

 

Step 1 - Stem Post

After making an initial angled cut the plank is placed in the rabbet and a pencil line is added so an accurate shape can be made. The plank is then removed and cut along the pencil line.

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Step 2- Marking the taper points

With the plank held in place the 3mmW and 3.5mmW positions are marked on the plank. A 2mmW mark is also added to the stem post end and a mark for the end point for the taper is also added. Using the vernier caliper the taper points are then marked so a line can be drawn between all the marked points. Once the taper has been cut the plank width is checked using vernier calipers.

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Step 3 - Adding a lateral bend

After the plank has been dipped in some water it is clamped so a lateral bend can be added. I used a hairdryer for approx. 1 minute to apply heat to the plank.

 

The laterally bent plank is then test fitted, and as can be seen below, the plank is not a perfect fit. When this is the case the plank is then wetted again and the lateral bend is adjusted.

 

It fits much better the second time around and also, as can be seen in the final photo below, the plank does followed the 3.5mmW and 3mmW marks. 009.thumb.JPG.bd16e26d9382a81c1216e85eb57a8ba3.JPG010.thumb.JPG.ec863fa7085556c949132a06f16a1884.JPG011.thumb.JPG.2d586fdad7e6b191c7be46451d949301.JPG012.thumb.JPG.8d68d2a6dc773a90fff2fe526d811819.JPG

Step 4 - Fitting the Plank

As I am fitting planks of approx.140mmL the position for the cut is made on the plank. The cut line repeats for every third strake.

 

I used my guillotine to make the cut, and the reverse side of the cut plank is marked to ensure I can line up the cut edges when fitting the next plank.

 

I apply a bevel to the top edge of the plank as this helps to keep the plank tight to the upper plank.

 

I do have a couple of bowls on hand, one has clean water and one has some acetone to remove any excess ca glue.

 

Ca glue is then added to the hull and the dampened plank is then added.

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Step 5 - Adding the remaining planks

The next cut position is marked on the plank. Once the plank has been cut a bevel is added to both the top edge and also to the end which butts up to the previous plank.

 

The dampened plank is then glued in place and any excess ca glue is wiped away. The process is then repeated for the final two planks.

 

The final plank is then trimmed close to the lower stern counter pattern.

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It might seem a long winded process but it works well for me and is producing much better results. And it is not as time consuming as you might imagine once you get going.

 

Edited by Glenn-UK

Glenn (UK)

Posted

That is a good, steady process, Glenn and it certainly works well judging by the look of that hull. Thumbs up from me sir!

Mark

 

On the table:  Endeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

Next up: Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70


Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

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