HMS Bounty Launch by builder_Nick - Model Shipways - 1:16

[builder_Nick]

This Bounty launch started as a group of friends and family members building kits at the same time. I had taken pictures along the way and thought it was worth documenting as a build log. 

Edited Monday at 03:57 PM by builder_Nick

[builder_Nick]

It all starts with a box. This kit is a nice scale at 1:16 with plenty of interesting extras. 

[builder_Nick]

The first phase of building the mold is pretty straightforward. I decided to attach it to a board where I first put down guidelines to help keep everything straight and in proper position. I glued it down by welding corners with hot glue. I figured that gave me an easier out if I needed to remove it from the board. Pictured also is the frame materials cut to length in prep for bending to the mold. Side note, I would have left the sheer tabs off until after fairing. They get in the way and are easily added later. 

[builder_Nick]

I decided to mount the transom differently than the instructions. I glued a piece of wood the same thickness across the end of the mold for the transom to sit on. This gave a clamp point to hold the transom securely. 

[builder_Nick]

Frames were soaked and steam bent over the mold. I left the keel off so that I could do each frame in one piece. This also gave me the opportunity to do a second set that could be set aside for the in-between frames that would be added later. 

[builder_Nick]

Sheer and garboard were soaked and clamped in place. The instructions suggest working each direction but I ended up working from the sheer toward the keel. There is a potential issue with precut planks not working out for the spacing. You will see later that I ran into this problem. 

[Nirvana]

Nick, you are nicely off with good start.
Looking forward to seeing your "speedy" progress.

Best to you.

Btw, Poulsbo is beautiful, love the place.

[builder_Nick]

I decided to add trunnels to the boat. The 1:16 scale seemed big enough to warrant the extra work. I used a draw plate and basswood (same material as the planks) to create the treenails. The size ended up a little big (1mm) but it was as small as I could go without the material falling apart as it was pulled through the plate. 

[builder_Nick]

One strake at a time...

[builder_Nick]

And there is the problem... I ended up with a nice little gap. I knew this was going to happen, so I figured it would be better to deal with it where it won't really be seen. Time to add a stealer. 

[builder_Nick]

Planking is done with a stealer added on each side to make up for the gaps. 

Edited Thursday at 10:19 PM by builder_Nick

[builder_Nick]

Removed from the mold and ready for more frames. 

[builder_Nick]

The second set of bent frames fit in perfectly. It may be easy enough to bend the frames into the hull like the instructions, but having them pre-bent on the mold was very nice. All that was required was trimming out for the keel. 

[builder_Nick]

Next was adding the cant frames. The uneven gap in frames seemed visually off even if it may be correct. I decided to add a frame into the gap to even it out. 

[builder_Nick]

Sheer clamp installed. This really helped add security to the frames and made the boat feel less fragile while handling. I trimmed the frames down to the sheer and did a little sanding to even it out. 

[builder_Nick]

I then moved on to sanding, staining, and finishing the hull. I wanted to scrape rather than sand, but scraping skipped over the trunnels leaving a ridge. I gave it a sealer coat of finish followed by a gel stain and then wipe on poly.  

[iMustBeCrazy]

Congrats Nick, she's looking good.

 

The issues you had are all inherent in this kit and you handled them nicely.

 

 

[builder_Nick]

Thanks! I had read through enough builds to see some of the issues others had encountered. 

[Fritzlindsay]

On 3/6/2025 at 5:33 PM, builder_Nick said:

Sheer clamp installed

LOVE your planking! Sorry to ask but I am not sure what you are calling a sheer clamp?  If it is the strake of planking at the top of the inboard side of the frames it seems unusual as I cannot find any contemporary drawings that have anything like this.  If you or a member has any contemporary plans showing this kind of construction that would be fantastic.  As it is, there needs to be a gunwale as shown on the drawings below to support the tholes which would alleviate the need for the clamp.

Thank you very much

Fritz

Edited Monday at 02:01 PM by Fritzlindsay

[builder_Nick]

I appreciate that you like my planking! As to your question, yes the sheer plank is referring to the inboard plank. Others may be able to provide insight as to its potential use in contemporary plans. My only experience with it is in this kit. It may be just a model design feature to add structure.

Edited Monday at 03:40 PM by builder_Nick

[iMustBeCrazy]

7 hours ago, Fritzlindsay said:

I cannot find any contemporary drawings that have anything like this.  If you or a member has any contemporary plans showing this kind of construction that would be fantastic.  As it is, there needs to be a gunwale as shown on the drawings below to support the tholes which would alleviate the need for the clamp.

 

5 hours ago, builder_Nick said:

It may be just a model design feature to add structure.

Technically I suppose this is an inwale, an inner gunwale. I have seen no contemporary plans showing inwales in a launch. An inwale may be used alone or paired with an outwale (outer wale or gunwale). Weirdly, if a gunwale is notched to go over the ribs it also becomes an inwale.

 

So, Nick is correct, it's just a design feature of this kit as is the use of ribs on a launch.

[builder_Nick]

Thanks for the information! It’s interesting to see the differences between kit design and actual construction practices. It makes sense that working in small scale may require different approaches, but I can see why those looking for more accuracy get into scratch built.

[iMustBeCrazy]

1 hour ago, builder_Nick said:

It’s interesting to see the differences between kit design and actual construction practices. It makes sense that working in small scale may require different approaches

Quite a lot would go into a kit design:

 

Which vessel? What information is available? What cost? What skill level? How repeatable? (in manufacture) What compromises re cost skill level etc.

 

This Bounty Launch kit is probably based only on this drawing:

Which appeared in Bligh's books. The kit hull shape is quite close but the construction (which is not shown) is very different. Also there are errors made by the person who etched the plate for the printers.

 

But the bottom line is that it makes a nice model and is a better representation than some of the other kits.

[Fritzlindsay]

12 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

it's just a design feature of this kit as is the use of ribs on a launch.

 I get that the kit may not be like any real boat, let alone the Bounty launch.  Sorry for my confusion, but when you say the kit as is the use of ribs on a launch, do you mean there were no frames on a launch?  Scantlings from David Steel give dimensions for the floor timbers and futtocks of the frames (ribs?) . 

 

This does bring up a question that hopefully a member can answer.  How was the R&S determined for the various ships' boats?  I have always just settled on the station lines being the location of the square frames as I have never seen a figure for the room and space on any ship's boat scantlings lists or contemporary plans.

Fritz

 

Edited 23 hours ago by Fritzlindsay

[iMustBeCrazy]

8 hours ago, Fritzlindsay said:

frames (ribs?)

I and others differentiate between frames, cut timbers forming the shape of the boat, and ribs, bent strips holding the planks together. But not everyone agrees.

8 hours ago, Fritzlindsay said:

I have always just settled on the station lines being the location of the square frames

Me too.