Vallejo plastic putty for wood models

[Dolphin-striker]

I am new to this hobby. I am building the Muscongus Bay lobster smack. The folks at Model Shipways recommend plastic wood to fill in the gaps in the hull planking. I tried that but I also found this Vallejo plastic putty. I found it works better in small spaces. Is there a reason I should not be using this on wood. It seems to be for plastic models 

[Keith Black]

 Firstly, welcome to MSW, DS. Secondly, IMHO, Vallejo plastic putty is dang near useless on wood models. I wouldn't use it as planking filler. 

[Dr PR]

I use Squadron White Putty to fill small gaps that will be painted (it is white and stands out like a sore thumb if not painted).

 

If you are filling larger gaps and cracks in hull planking there are better fillers. There was a lengthy discussion on the Forum a month or two ago about how to make wood fillers using sanding dust from the wood you are using and mixing it with something like white school glue (Elmer's Glue All or similar) that dries colorless. Smear the paste into the cracks and sand it after it dries.

 

If the gaps are pretty wide (1 mm or 0.039 inch) I just shave off a thin strip of wood, taper the ends as necessary, and glue it into the crack. Use the same wood that you are planking the hull with and the filler will not be noticeable.

[paul ron]

my carpentry experiance, ive always used elmers wood putty. it doesnt shrink, its very easily sanded and holds to wood very well. 

 

as mentioned above, wide gaps should be fitted with wood as best as you can, then use the putty as a finish coat to seal smaller gaps. 

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elmer-s-4-oz-Carpenter-s-Wood-Filler-155876/311643947

 

 

Edited March 31 by paul ron

[Dolphin-striker]

Thank you all for your advice. Like I said I am just getting started. I do have some boat building experience but it is with small craft. This is different.

[Capt. Kelso]

In addition to Elmers wood filler, I use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty to fill "small" gaps and imperfections. Have used it for many years on wood and metal fittings. Its relatively inexpensive, comes in a small tube, dries fast, easy to sand. However, not stainable.

[wefalck]

Just out of curiosity: are you talking about the Vallejo acrylic putty sold in bottles like their paint?

 

[Dolphin-striker]

I was asking about the putty that comes in a tube

[Wawona59]

Stay away from using putty designed for plastic models.  They will shrink during drying often requiring a second putty application.  The plastic putties dry harder than the surrounding wood and will sand differently.  IMHO, putty should only be used for small gaps or imperfections. I prefer making my own putty using sanding dust from the wood I am using and white glue such as Elmers.  Elmers also has a clear school glue which I haven't tried.  For premixed putty my preference is Elmer's wood putty.  It's texture and hardness are very compatible with wood.  It sands well also.  Ace Hardware also has a similar product sold under their own house brand.  Of course, nothing beats tight fitting joints to avoid gaps in the first place.  Good wishes to you in your ship modeling journey.  As you gain experience, every model you build will get better.

 

Welcome Aboard to Model Shipworld.

 

[JKC27]

I use any of the different wood fillers in a tube mostly that are available.  I find LePage's in a tube works good, as does the Elmer's version.  One product I have conflicting thoughts on is the bigger tub where the wood filler has a more sandy texture and I find for filling any gaps in my models it just doesn't work as good.

 

To add:  For any styrene parts that I am doing (which is most of my various decks, as I build modern ships), filling in any gaps, I use the Tamiya putty that comes in a small tube - it has a strong odour, and hardens nice, but I am not sure how it would work with wood at all.  It is designed to be used with plastic.

Edited April 16 by JKC27

[serpe]

 

The hull of the lobster smack is painted. So here is my advice. But I agree with Dr Pr. Plank tight and fill with wood dust and wood glue. If you use a filler like Lepage's wood filler be aware it dries very hard. So you risk sanding blowout on both sides of the repair. Picture a high side where the filler is then a low spot on the soft wood on either side. Wood glue doesn't tend to shrink after drying. I use a file to get a good profile then prime. Let dry, examine, sand again if necessary. Prime out the repairs then paint. 

[Landlubber Mike]

I wouldn't use Vallejo putty as it's for plastic models.  It's also unfortunately known to shrink.

 

You have a variety of options depending on the size of the cracks and whether you are painting the the section:

 

• If very small, I'd consider filling the gap with wood glue and then immediately sanding the area before the glue dries.  The sawdust will catch in the wood glue and no more gap.
• If very small and area will be painted, you can also use super glue - use medium to fill the gap, and then sand flush.  Super glue doesn't shrink so it's a very good option.  But, you can't stain, etc. it so really this option is only if you are going to paint the area.
• If small or especially if larger gap, then wood putty works great.  The wood putties tend not to shrink as much as the putties for plastic models.